Coinbuf

Just under $4,600 with the juice, I dropped out at $3,150. I would have really liked to have added that one to the set, but maybe another day. Bidders #11 and #12 really wanted that coin desperately!!

Well, I expected the 40-S to see some action, but it has surpassed what I thought it would go for. To the moon!!

You can send the coin in to NGC for them to correct the mechanical error, call customer service explain the problem and they should get you squared away. The last time I had this happen NGC took care of the problem and picked up the shipping both ways.

AU Details AU Details XF45 Each of your three coins is worth approximately $25 to $30 and varies as the price of silver moves up and down.

Both are large dates and have no value over face value.

Thanks for the additional information, both coins are currently crossing the auction blocks for under $100 each, roughly $30 to $40 for the dime and $75ish for the quarter. At those values you would not do well sending to a major auction house like Heritage where the seller fees are high, but Great Collections has a lower fee structure and coins like this can do ok on that auction platform. As you can see in the screen shots that you provided NGC has a value estimate for the dime of $30, and $65 for the quarter. If you don't want the hassle of shipping to an auction company or dealing with listing and shipping, I would check with any local coin dealer shops in your area to see if they will offer a price on these, expect a coin shop to offer roughly half of the NGC estimated value. These coins are very nice coins but they are also very common coins and it might take you some time to find buyers if selling yourself. Best of luck.

Welcome to the forum, from your photos this looks like it was altered after it left the mint, the machinery at the mint would struggle to properly strike just the copper core by itself. My bet is that the coin was purposely or inadvertently exposed to an acid of some type which ate away the outer clad layers. It is your choice but I think if you submit this to NGC it would be returned as environmental damage. As to your question on which services yes you would need to pay for the modern tier and for the mint error service. You would not need to add on the expense of NCS at the time of submission, however, if once received NGC felt that the NCS service was needed they would contact you to see if you wanted to use that service.

Welcome to the forum, we could give you better more focused advice if you had told us what two coins you want to sell. As you are new here we have no idea if your coins are really worth anything over face or metal content, but you have a few options. First you can list them here in the Buy-Sell-Trade (marketplace) section of the forum, here is a link to that section. If you do decide to list your coins there be sure to; provide good cropped in focus photos of both sides of the coin, and post a realistic price. There is no cost to putting your coins up for sale on in the marketplace, however, throwing out a hope to catch a sucker price with bad photos will only give you a bad reputation and make selling your coins here next to impossible. Marketplace Now there are not that many members here on this forum so you are not going to have many eyes see what you are selling here, so another option is to put your coins up for sale on ebay. More people will see your coins there but there are fees involved in selling on ebay. Another option is to sell your coins directly to a coin dealer, this option will likely yield you the lowest price but has the benefit of getting the cash the quickest. And lastly if the coins do have significant numismatic value, you could send them to one of the many auction houses.

No, all I see is a beat to heck and back cent that is barely usable in commerce.

Maybe just the photo, but it really looks terrible. I'm watching the 40-S this week, would be nice but I expect it to go well out of my budget range as it seems to be a nice coin. I may call Ian and see what he can tell me about that 40, maybe it is just a bad image.

Just in case you are still unsure from the other replies, no the coins you have are not worth sending in for grading. You are correct in thinking that each is only worth $1.

I like both, it is fun to have a highly ranked highly collected series set, and also fun to fly under the radar with some sets. Best of luck with your sets, just 12 days left as I write this reply. And best wishes for Sam's upcoming in-patient time.

I haven't seen any1940 Denver mint coins on GC in the MS68 range except for a nickel with a very expensive starting bid, there is one SF and a couple of Philly coins in that grade. The SF dime is not a FB coin and will likely not sell all that high, zero chance of a FB and even at MS68 it scores just a few points higher than my current 67FB coin. so not really worth chasing. The 40-S Lincoln up this week looks like a very nice coin, maybe not quite MS68, but very nice and should do well. The 40-P that will be up in a few weeks is a dog, it looks like a mechanical error or a total whiff from the photos.

It is not uncommon for lighting or a camera lens to "see" or highlight marks and abrasions in a different way than our eyes do. And the old ownership adds a point comes into play more often than many of us would like to admit. I have done the same thing, thought a coin looked great only to see something when photographed that I missed or perhaps my brain suppressed due to my elation upon my initial viewing.

Just curious, why do you want to crossover this to NGC? The only added value I can see to changing the plastic is if it can be included in a registry set that requires this variety, and while I have not looked since NGC does not recognize this RPM there should not be a slot for it in any sets. Is there another reason besides value that is motivating you to cross this?

As you have been a long time seller on ebay than you should be well aware of the rise in fees to sell on ebay. I will also assume that you have an ebay store as that is the best way to mitigate those fees. The funny thing is that most of the sellers I see on ebay that have ebay stores are often the sellers with the most aggressive pricing, you would think that they would try and undercut the competition with their fee structure advantage, but it does not seem to work that way. Honestly, if you are looking for raw coins finding a local dealer will be your best avenue. A high percentage of the raw material on ebay is just pure junk, you will have to sift through a lot of chaff to find any wheat. I can more often than not buy raw coins cheaper at a local coin shop or at the monthly coin show than I can on ebay.

Depends on which red book you have, mine is older and the line for an 82S does not say large or small. The one you have is indeed a misprint as all the proof mintage coins that I have ever seen are all large dates.

No need to apologize for a valid question, yes you can find uncirculated 1975 Lincoln cents quite easily, either in mint sets as you suggested or by searching rolls. The issue is that finding a high quality, thus high value, 1975 Lincoln cent is quite another matter. Many mint sets have suffered the fate of improper storage so it is common to see the cents in those sets with spots, corrosion, or PVC, which makes them undesirable for many collectors. Rolls are also plentiful and easy to find, but many of those have already been searched and the few gems have already been plucked out. However, many of those coins in rolls and mint sets are nice mid-grade BU coins perfectly fine for use in albums or folders where many do not need an MS68 condition coin. Keep in mind that some of this discussion, and the viewpoints offered, depend on how one collects, albums vs registry. I do both and I have spent time to search thru rolls and mint sets so I do know just how difficult it can be to find coins that are suitable for slabbing. In fact, I rarely do that anymore, instead, when buying a coin for my registry set I would prefer to buy the coin already slabbed and let someone else do all that work. Basically that is correct, the small and large cents were not segregated out or distributed in any special way from the other. The red book I have does not list specific mintages and I have not seen any reference material that does. Both are reasonably plentiful but because of the hype the small date received it commands a higher price. As a result of the higher price, and unless you can find an untouched stash, you can expect that most of the mint sets and rolls in the market will already have been searched and any small dates likely already removed.

Sandon is correct, NGC will not certify something that is not in a reasonably secure holder, and the Capital plastic holder you have is not secure in the least. As neither Sandon or I work for NGC, I encourage you to contact NGC customer service to verify that, but I am confident that the official answer will be no.

The case for the use of a microscope, by a qualified professional numismatist, is very low, less than 1% of the time. If I cannot see something like an RPM or an OMM with a good loupe then either my eyes are so shot that I would be legally blind, or it is entirely insignificant. As you wrote, the use of such a tool by beginners is just pointless and a waste of time as most beginners do not have the ability to differentiate between cleaning evidence, evidence from the time of strike, and anything that has been deposited on the surface from circulation/handling. The many questions that we field here are proof of that! I believe that suggesting the use of such a tool is needed (at any time) only fosters and encourages a behavior that is unproductive, and I see that as a disservice to a new collector. So no, I do not need to rethink my stance on the use of microscopes in numismatics.

There is the slightest bit of worthless die deterioration on a few letters, but zero signs of any true die doubling at all. Lose the microscope, great tool for a lab, just plain useless for coins.

I am not aware of any way to leave comments on another registry set, either in the new or the old registry systems. There are no limitations on putting comments (well other than swear words) in the top commentary section of your own sets.

Nice.

A photo might help.

You would think that a guy with your credentials would do the tiniest bit of research before you put your foot in your mouth and look foolish. Even the most basic of research, checking the NGC explorer pop numbers for example, would have told you that there are no 1975 Lincoln cents currently graded higher than MS68. Putting that into layman's terms that you can understand, there are no MS70's for this date. Here is a list of just the sales at GC for 1975 Lincoln cents that have been graded as MS67 to MS68, every one of these has a value that exceeds the cost of submission even if submitted as a single coin submission. And each is graded lower than your fantasy MS70. Am I suggesting that the op should submit his coin, no I am not. The spots on the rev limit the grade to MS65 or perhaps a gift of MS66 at best, and both of those grades would be a loss given the true market values for those grades. Per usual, on matters of market values or grading, yours is the only comment that should be ignored. I have said it before, you should stick to research and writing because you have no clue about the coin market or collecting in this century, things have changed alot since the dawn of the industrial revolution.