Coinbuf

Welcome to the forum, no the coin is not double stamped, and the correct terminology would be double struck. This is what is called a "vise job", another cent was pressed into this coin. Often done with a bench vise tool (hence the name) but can be done a few different ways, notice how the letters are in reverse, that is how you know it is not a real error. And yes this comes up often, in fact this very coin looks oddly familiar.

Quite recently forum member @FlyingAl was offering a special on his photographic services for old holder coins on the PCGS forum. So I decided to take him up on that offer and sent 11 coins to him for some professional photos. He has posted a few times here on this forum also and for those who do not know he is a YN, so this was in my mind great for us both as I get photos to use and he receives some monies to put toward his collecting or life goals. In the past I have used (and still do) the photographic services of Mark Goodman, but it is always nice to compare different photographic artists. I am very impressed with the quality of the photos that FlyingAl provided and can highly recommend him to anyone that would like the use of such a service. So now some of the photos. Might take a few posts as there are quite a few photos.

The reason NGC has no VAM11's listed for this date/mm is that they will not attribute this VAM. Unlike PCGS who will attribute even the most minute variety, NCG only attributes what is on the list that @EagleRJO gave you a link to. I personally don't think it makes any financial sense to grade this coin as I don't see it grading over MS64, MS63 is more likely imo. Plus it is a common date with tens of thousands already graded. However, if you have reasons other than financial then it may be worth it for you, just remember not to pay for the variety service as the VAM will not be listed and NGC will not refund the variety fee. FYI, NGC pop reports show 25.6+ graded in MS63 and 41.4+ thousand in MS64.

Congratulations on your patience, it has paid off. I actually prefer the IS albums, being a copper guy, but I do have the 7070 (no gold) Dansco but no photos as I've never taken any of that album. Only needs a with moto seated dollar to complete the album, someday perhaps.

I have heard some of those capsules can be real buggers to open, just go slow and take your time so you don't damage the coin. I would think that tapping the sides with a hammer, similar to cracking a slab, would help to free the coin.

I just want to add something to what I wrote above, just because most copper collectors perfer a red coin there is a base of collectors (which has grown over the past ten years) that very much likes toned copper both proof and business strike. I just want to mention this as it sounds like you have been on the sidelines of numismatics for a bit and may not be aware of this trend. For that group your coin might be very well liked and thus is not without value, the key is to get it in front of those eyeballs.

Bob is correct, that is a very common clash mark on Morgan dollars.

Same canned reply that I received back on the 8th or 9th when I notified NGC of the issue.

Too late putting it in a slab now will not reverse what has happened. As mentioned above copper collectors will most of the time prefer a red coin for coins of this vintage, spending money having this graded and slabbed would be a waste imo.

I alerted @Ali E. to this issue on Jun 8th, clearly it is not an issue that NGC is concerned about.

I concur, PMD looks like counting machine damage to me (often called wheel marks). Let me add that I think your plan of attack; "Being that the coin was from an uncirculated roll and the all the coins in the roll were in terrific mint state condition, this brush like blemish would seemingly come from the minting process or immediately following it's production" is not the best approach. When you find something that looks different you should be assuming that it is only PMD unless you can prove that it happened during production. Remember the mint is a high speed production facility, coins minted for circulation are not given even a modest level of careful handling. And once the coins are shipped out of the mint they are subjected to more rough handling and the use of counting machines which can also impart marks and damage. In order to identify real errors vs damage you need to know how coins are minted. Here is a very short video released by the Denver mint, this is not a substitute for studying the minting process but in this video you can see just how rough these coins are treated during the production, note the use of tools like a metal rake. Link

Just some reference for you, the mint began phasing out the hand punching of mintmarks in the mid eighties. By 1990 all hand punched mintmarks had been phased out, so it would be impossible for you to find a D over anything on a coin from 1993 unless a mint employee was doing some creative midnight manufacturing on his/her own.

I've never understood the desire or rational behind wanting or feeling the need for a label that says first day of issue.

Perhaps you have heard the term a rising tide lifts all boats; I'm surprised that you have not seen the same with the other series you have been working on. Between the current administrations rapid inflation and a super bull market in numismatics over the past few years I cannot think of any coin or series that has not seen significant rise in the asking prices, especially if you are looking at buying from a dealer. Having said that gem+ full red coins in the twenties and teens have always been pricey, that is why my set is mostly RB or BN up to 1930, from 1930 on I have strived for only red and at least 66 shooting for 67 on each coin. But I have a few of the early 30's coins in 66's that are so nice it is hard to justify upgrading. My advice is to look at the auction sites to fill in those gaps, it will not be much less expensive but still less than paying the dealer markup. After all many dealers are buying from those same auctions and adding 25% or more on top.

I see nothing out of the ordinary.

Lots of people are, there are millions of stained coins floating around the system just as yours are stained and not any type of error. Think about it, improperly annealed coins are found in circulation but are not common at all, how likely is it that you would find that many in such a short time span. The answer is very VERY unlikely that you would, instead of assuming that everything you find is an error or variety you should instead assume it is not unless you can prove it is an error or variety.

I cannot say for sure but I do not believe this is improperly annealed either, the look is all wrong. However, the white balance of your photo is off (I'm assuming the background color is white but appears to be yellow on my monitor) which makes the coin look yellow, thus it's very difficult to say definitively.

Hello Kel and welcome to the forum, I used your photo and circled the area I think you are asking about, if correct this is as @Sandon mentioned above what is called a die chip. As he explained these are common and just a product of poor quality control not an error and doesn't add anything of value to the coin. You can read about die chips at this link I have provided. Error-ref.com - die chips

Coins that are improperly annealed will usually be a copper color, this quarter in your photos doesn't appear to be copper in color on my monitor. Your coin just looks stained or discolored from these photos to me.

Thanks, the photos were taken by Jeremy (aka airplanenut on the PCGS forum) 15 or 20 years ago, dang it is hard to believe it has been that long. The coin still resides in its old small ANACS holder.

A cud only happens around the rim of a coin, what I see in your photos appear to be either a die chip or just damage from something that hit the coin in that spot. Die chips are somewhat common and have no collector value, and damage is never collectable.