BillJones

Here is an MS-65 example of this coin that has been certified by our hosts. As you can see, there is quite a bit of difference. 
 
 

I like the the fact that the NGC Registry will take both NGC and PCGS U.S. coins. I buy the coins I like, not the holder. 
This concept allows for more of the best sets to be on display. The PCGS, PCGS only, policy severely limits my participation in their registry. I have built two sets over there, and don't plan to build any more. 

The pictured coin was not struck on a medal press, was not sandblasted at the Philadelphia Mint, has probably never been in Philadelphia, and could not tell a Philly cheese-steak from a Boston barnacle.

It is obvious on a dime. Look at just about any modern Proof. Anything smaller than that can be an issue, but then you are looking at half dimes, Silver Three Cent pieces and Gold dollars. This Type III gold dollar is a marked Proof CAM.

I have found the grading companies to be very inconsistent when it comes to giving Proof coins the "Cam" designation. For example, these two Proof coins don't have it. 
 
 


 
But this one was given a CAM. The obverse might be CAM, but not the reverse.

 

I paid a small fraction of that amount for a Satin Finish Proof in PR-67. I am very happy with my coin at that price. I also have one with the Brilliant Finish, which I don't like as well, also in PR-67. I think that the design looks better with the satin finish, but the brilliant one sells for about 35% more. 
 

Having looked at the photos, I'd have to say that I might have a hard time giving that coin an MS-69. I can spot at least three small marks on the obverse that would be visible, at least to me, with the naked eye. To me an MS-69 should have no more than couple of barely perceptable marks. So I guess I would have called an MS-68, but what do I know?

I was buying a wire transfer at my local bank yesterday to pay a dealer in London. The bank people made mistakes on the first two forms and had to do it over again. Each time they did it, the price of the British pound was going down. In the end, I ended up paying less than I would have the first time around. 

I was buying a wire transfer at my local bank yesterday to pay a dealer in London. The bank people made mistakes on the first two forms and had to do it over again. Each time they did it, the price of the British pound was going down. In the end, I ended up paying less than I would have the first time around. 

I was buying a wire transfer at my local bank yesterday to pay a dealer in London. The bank people made mistakes on the first two forms and had to do it over again. Each time they did it, the price of the British pound was going down. In the end, I ended up paying less than I would have the first time around. 

I was buying a wire transfer at my local bank yesterday to pay a dealer in London. The bank people made mistakes on the first two forms and had to do it over again. Each time they did it, the price of the British pound was going down. In the end, I ended up paying less than I would have the first time around. 

I agree with this statement. The Red Book contains a lot of useful information, and I still use it every day to look up mintages and general information.
 
I have viewed the Blue Book as useless from the time I was a YN in the 1960s. I have built a complete set of Red Books and have kept many of the copies I used in the 1960s - except that ones that fell apart ... . Falling apart was a problem for the Red Book in the 1970s, and I treat the books I have from the era very gingerly when I have to open them for some information.
 
I don't think I have any old Blue Books around although there might be hiding hiding on bookshelf somewhere.

My latest a three shilling, 1814 British Bank Token. Our hosts graded it MS-61. 
 

My latest a three shilling, 1814 British Bank Token. Our hosts graded it MS-61. 
 

When I was a dealer other dealers asked me to bid in their eBay lots. There was no obligation for me to buy the lot if I won. I refused to place any of those bids, but this shows you how easy shilling is on eBay.

I have bought coins from Heritage at their booth at major shows for very attractive prices, including at amounts that offered using the Gray Sheet as a guide. If they are paying over market for auction pieces it must be a rare occurrence.

I have found the grading companies to be very inconsistent when it comes to giving Proof coins the "Cam" designation. For example, these two Proof coins don't have it. 
 
 


 
But this one was given a CAM. The obverse might be CAM, but not the reverse.

 

It is obvious on a dime. Look at just about any modern Proof. Anything smaller than that can be an issue, but then you are looking at half dimes, Silver Three Cent pieces and Gold dollars. This Type III gold dollar is a marked Proof CAM.

I paid a small fraction of that amount for a Satin Finish Proof in PR-67. I am very happy with my coin at that price. I also have one with the Brilliant Finish, which I don't like as well, also in PR-67. I think that the design looks better with the satin finish, but the brilliant one sells for about 35% more. 
 

My latest a three shilling, 1814 British Bank Token. Our hosts graded it MS-61. 
 

Yes, the 1804 C-6 half cent die variety, which is one of the Spiked Chin half cents, is fairly common as a variety, but some people have come up with as many as 18 die states of it. As a result, one collector could soak up that many examples in a die state set. It makes it harder for other collectors to get even one. 

As a collector, I tried not to collect die states.
When I was collecting half cents by die variety back in the late 1980s and early 1990s, die states came into their own. I believe that the hobby is best when more people can participate. Half cents are scarce as a group, and there are not an infinite number of coins available, even for the common varieties. When one collector has to have four, five six, even 11 or more examples of one variety, there is less left for everyone. 
Therefore no, I don't collect die states. I might look them up in a book, but that's it.  

As a collector, I tried not to collect die states.
When I was collecting half cents by die variety back in the late 1980s and early 1990s, die states came into their own. I believe that the hobby is best when more people can participate. Half cents are scarce as a group, and there are not an infinite number of coins available, even for the common varieties. When one collector has to have four, five six, even 11 or more examples of one variety, there is less left for everyone. 
Therefore no, I don't collect die states. I might look them up in a book, but that's it.  

The price of gold makes every large coin, like the double eagle ($20, expensive now. The $2.50 coins offer a chance to get a higher grade, more attractive coin for less money. I have also seen some conservative grading for them. 
This 1905 quarter eagle is in an MS-63 holder. It's well under $1,000, but, of course, you are getting a lot less gold. 

The price of gold makes every large coin, like the double eagle ($20, expensive now. The $2.50 coins offer a chance to get a higher grade, more attractive coin for less money. I have also seen some conservative grading for them. 
This 1905 quarter eagle is in an MS-63 holder. It's well under $1,000, but, of course, you are getting a lot less gold.