Just Bob

He probably used EAC grading standards. They tend to be more conservative than current standards.

I can understand why. That is a beautiful piece. Looking forward to seeing more of your collection.

I can understand why. That is a beautiful piece. Looking forward to seeing more of your collection.

Welcome to the forum. Good looking coins. 

Welcome to the forum. Good looking coins. 

Welcome to the forum. Good looking coins. 

Welcome to the forum. Good looking coins. 

Glad everything is okay.

It is amazing how people view things so differently. When I see something old, my first thought is, "Cool!" When some people see something old, their first thought is, "Junk!"

I had the same thought.

Glad everything is okay.

It took wiping my laptop and reloading Windows, but I finally got it to communicate with my phone again, so I can resume loading pictures and posting here.
The Beverly Drive-In was opened in 1948, with one screen and an 800 car capacity. It had a miniature golf course out front. The owner and his family lived in a house under the screen. A second screen was added in 1979. The owner passed away in 1987, and the theater closed. It was reopened in 2001, and remained open until it was heavily damaged by Hurricane Katrina in 2005. It burned down in 2010.
I spent quite a few nights watching movies at this theater, at first with my family, later with friends and dates. In my late teens, I owned a pickup with a camper shell on back. We would throw a mattress in the back, pull into the parking place with the rear of the truck facing the screen, lower the tailgate and raise the camper shell liftgate, and lie in the back and watch the movie.
 

After working for the Maryland and Stonewall plantations in Holmes County, Mississippi, R.Lee "Uncle Buddy" Peaster, along with his wife "Miss Mable," purchased the Dunbarton plantation, and later, the Quofaloma plantation, which adjoined the Dunbarton. This was in 1905, and he ran the store there until 1940, when he turned it over to Mr. Guy Campbell. He also owned a store in Mileston, MS, and is listed as the owner of the Paradise Plantation, although I was unable to find out if this was a separate plantation, or if he changed the name of one that he had purchased earlier. 
The 5 cent token that I own is listed as an R5 (15-24 known.) There are also 10 cent and one dollar tokens known to exist - both also listed as R5.
 

I am lazily re-posting something from an earlier thread, but it fits here:
What is a "Doo-ga-loo?" you ask. Well, it is a slang name for a trade token. They were also known as Brozenes, Doodlum, or Counters, among other names. These were used in place of money at various times in the past. This particular one is from the 1950s, and was found under the cork in a metal bottle cap.The finder could redeem the token for its face value in cash. Double Cola was one of the popular issuers of these, but this particular one was under the cap of a Big 12 Cola.It is from the town of Macon, Mississippi, and is made of very thin aluminum - so thin that it can be bent quite easily. And, it is only readable from one side, like a dogtag. They were minted in 5 cent and 10 cent denominations, and this one is the former. I also included a picture of one of the bottles, from an Ebay listing.
 

There are many members here who know much more about tokens and conservation than I, and I suspect that you are one of those. You certainly don't need my advice. But, since we both have been put on the spot, and since you asked, I will respond with some advice that I was given years ago, for the benefit of future readers of this thread.
The following quote is compliments of Conder101, responding to a thread in which I had asked for suggestions about conserving a token that I had bought:
"Looks like active corrosion. Might try a soak in an oil based product such as olive oil, mineral oil or blue ribbon, then use a rose thorn to remove any loosened corrosion product. You may have to do a few cycles of soak then thorn. (The thorn is also good for getting any dirt or "crud" out from around the devices, it is soft enough it should not scratch, strong enough to dig out the crud, and comes to a small enough point that it gets into the smallest places.)
 
Then use acetone to remove all of the oil and to throughly dry the token. (one thing the corrosion need to work is to water and the rough area of the corrosion will hold onto water molecules very well. The acetone gets in there and "dissolves" out the water and carries it off. It acts as a drying agent.) After the acetone you might want to then apply a very thin layer of blue ribbon or mineral oil to the token to seal out moisture from the corrosion area. (The oil fills the nooks and crannies in the corrosion keeping the water vapor in the air out of them.)
 
Now the corroded areas will still look rough and pitted but it should look better than the active corrosion and will help stop it from getting any worse."