Just Bob

As does the Red Book and Coin World Almanac.

"Treat them horribly?" How can you possibly say that you were treated "horribly?" A total of four posters responded to your posts, giving their opinion that your coins were proofs, and not SMS coins. No one was rude or ugly; they were honest and matter-of-fact. If having someone merely disagree with your opinion makes you this upset, maybe online forums are not for you. Feel free to post the results of your submission when you get them. My guess is that they will not be graded as Specimens or Special Mint Set coins, but I would love for you to prove me, and all of the others, wrong. Good luck.

In 1906, the Bullard brothers built a sawmill south of Savoy, MS, at a point where the Mobile & Ohio RR, and the New Orleans and Northeastern RR, came together and ran only a few feet apart for several miles, before separating again. It was a convenient spot to load and ship their lumber products to many different parts of the country. Below is a picture of the two tracks running side-by-side. The M&O is the one on the left with the train on it; the NO&NE is on the right. This token is not listed in the Mississippi book. Along with the 10 cent piece that I own, I also know of a 50 cent and a 25 cent token which exist.

Click here for the link to the thread ATS

I always just assumed that she reimbursed the mint at face value.

That is a shame. It looks like a nice coin.

The bag marks are what will keep it from grading MS 67. "Only a few imperfections" is how NGC describes a coin with that lofty grade. Unfortunately, your coin has more than "a few." Nice coin, but, judging strictly by these pictures, I am going to guess maybe MS63/64 at the most. In hand, or at least with closer, sharper pictures, I may have a different opinion.

No. It is a fake.

That was my first thought, as well. If it rusts, it has to be steel.

Thanks

I tried their food once, in Ontario, OR. Honestly, if their food consistently taste like what I had that day, I don't know why anyone would eat there.

It sure tastes like it.

What are the die markers for a bronze 1943 cent?

First, Welcome to The Forum. Second, try not to be so impatient. You posted a coin, someone replied, and then only 7 minutes later you got aggravated because they didn't answer your question. What you need to understand is that not everyone hangs out on the forum 24 hours a day. It's possible that he saw your coin, answered your question, then put his phone down and went back to work. Now, let's start over. Repost clear pictures of your coin, both sides, and let us see if we can evaluate what you have. The picture you have posted is much too blurry to make any kind of determination.

The picture is much too blurry to determine anything accurately.

How did I miss this? Count Me In.

Welcome to the forum. Your coin is not a mint error, so is not worth a premium. It has suffered some kind of damage after it was minted.

Great coin! Any idea how many exist in all grades?

Lucious Lafayette Lampton and his son-in-law Eugene Wesley Reid opened a general store in Magnolia, Mississippi in 1914. Mr. Lampton passed away in 1924, and Mr. Reid passed in 1939. The store closed the following year. The store issued tokens in one cent through 50 cents, in brass and aluminum, in at least two varieties. At this time, I only have this one, but I am always on the hunt for others. The house pictured below belonged to Mr. Lampton, and is still standing.

There have been many posts lately in which a dollar value or range has been suggested for determining which coins should be graded. Some say a coin should be worth at least $100 in order to make it worth the cost. Others say $150 to $250. I would like to hear from people who have actual experience submitting coins - individually and in groups, with detailed descriptions of all costs involved. Please list all costs associated with your submission(s). For example, a post may read something like this: I submitted three coins to (x) company under (x) tier. The cost of grading was (x) per coin, and I also paid (x) for a variety attribution for one of them. Shipping and insurance amounted to (x). I paid (x) for packing materials, and ( if you consider fuel an expense) I traveled (x) miles each way to the post office. Any other expenses that apply to your submission should also be included. If you want to include the value of your coin before submitting, and any value difference after, please do so. Hopefully, if several people will give examples, we can determine a fairly accurate number or range to pass on to new members. I do realize that, even if we can arrive at an actual average cost per coin, it will still not answer the question of whether a coin should or should not be submitted, since there are other factors that figure into the equation, but it should at least provide a starting point. Thank you in advance for your participation.

The lighting angle makes that look like a scratch.

It has the look of a typical Chinese fake.

Did that price include shipping?

With the current coin shortage, I have been using change in most of my transactions lately - from a snack at the convenience store, to a $59.99 purchase at JC Penney this morning. Tellers seem to like getting exact change these days.