Just Bob

@JKK How is the weather in Beaverton?

Who said that there were "so many"? It just have been deleted, because I don't see that posted here by anyone.

Simple. NGC has not updated their evaluation of these coins, so the price graph remains the same. When/if they update the price in their system, the line will either go up or down. If they change it to reflect actual prices realized, it will surely go down, and by a large amount. I realize that you would like to be able to look at that price and say that your coins are worth $250 each. But, in the real world, a coin is only worth what a buyer is willing to pay. The amount on a computer screen means absolutely nothing if no one is willing to pay that amount. Maybe one day the price of these will go up, and you can actually say that your coins are really worth $250. But right now, in the real world where people are actually buying and selling these coins, they are worth under $100. That's just the plain and simple truth. No amount of wishful thinking is going to change that. Sorry.

My understanding is that this was the original intent when Uram and others presented the idea to Congress, but there was so much competition in the commemorative coin arena that the measure did not pass. So, they tried a different angle: a yearly issue, like the silver and gold eagles.

Take a look at this census page for Lincoln Memorial cents. Notice how many are graded below MS60. My guess is that many of these, and a lot of the mint state examples, were sent in by people who were sure that they had a doubled die or some other variety. https://www.ngccoin.com/census/united-states/cents/100/

That question will only be answered when you sell the 4 coins. List price means nothing if you can't get anyone to pay that amount for your coins.

I assumed you were Ashley, so that was a mistake on my part. Sorry, Meagan. Go back and look at your first post. You said, "Getting ready to sort through some boxes of coins that my grandfather collected." You posted a picture of unopened boxes of what appears to be mint and proof sets. The clear implication is that you had just gotten these coins and had not gone through them yet. No mention of the fact that you had already been selling them for five years. Since none of us are mind readers, this sets the tone for every response that follows. At this point, we all think that you are looking for an education, and not for assistance in your ongoing sales venture. You asked for "insight," which could mean anything from the history of the coins, to the mintage figures, to an opinion on the appearance of the coins. You did not specifically ask for assistance in pricing, so how are members supposed to know this is what you were looking for? In your second post you stated that some coins were being listed on Etsy (Instant red flag in the mind of every member, although you did not know this) then said, "Just wanted to share some others I have not listed." Again, no request for assistance in pricing. But your third posts says, "That is why we are HERE to ask you guys for opinions and prices on what you would suggest they go for." How are we supposed to assist with pricing if you don't ask for that assistance? We aren't usually in the habit of telling sellers what they should charge unless asked. Another quote: "...don’t have the money to spend on getting everything graded (as some of you have suggested),..." This statement is not true. Please show us where any member suggested you have any of your coins graded. Because Sandon thought, as did all of us, that you had just received this large collection, he suggested you have them appraised by a local dealer or another party experienced in coin appraisal. That is not the same as sending them off to have them graded. No one else even mentioned grading or appraisal. The claim that you have been selling coins for five years, but don't know how to price them does not hold water, especially if you sell on Ebay. A quick look at "Sold" listings would have given you all the information required to properly price your coins. And, as mentioned by others, there are numerous books and online resources to offer guidance, as well. Five years is a very long time to wander around in the dark. Some of the most honest, genuine, and generous people I have ever met are members of this forum, but we really hate to see people being taken advantage of. As I said in my earlier post, it is your right to charge whatever you feel comfortable charging, but you shouldn't expect dedicated collectors you assist you in gouging people.

This person has been selling coins for very high prices since 2018. Apparently, Grandfather's collection has taken 5 years to sort through so far. Ashley, you are well within your rights to sell your coins for as much or as little as you want. However, if you continue to sell grossly overpriced coins to unsuspecting, uninformed buyers, don't expect to make many friends on this forum.

Picture clarification, courtesy of Variety Vista and Variety Plus. The first two pics are of the '79 Type1, then the next two are the '79 Type2, which is the same punch that was used in 1980, and is also the 1981 Type1. The last two pics are the '81 Type2. The difference between the '81 types one and two are difficult to see in these pictures, especially the flat surface of the type2. The difference in the shape of the lower "tail" is noticeable, though.

I am of the opinion that this is not a genuine Morgan.

Are you familiar with the pirate movie term "Pieces of Eight?" Those are Spanish "Dollars", worth 8 Reales. They were irregularly shaped hammered coins, often with part of the design missing. They were called "cobs," from the Spanish word "cabo" which referred to the fact that the clumps of silver were cut from the end of a bar and hammered into crude shapes. The cobs were coined in denominations of 1/2, 1, 2, 4, and 8 reales. Your top two coins look to be 2 Reales pieces. The upper one is, I believe from Bolivia, as Powermad suggested, and the second one, if I am not mistaken, is from Peru. Specifically Lima, Peru. The top line of the reverse has the inscription "L 2 H." This stands for Lima, the denomination (2 reales) and the assayer's initial (H). The bottom line is H 00 L, with the "00" being the last two digits of the date, 1700. The 8 reales coins were sometimes cut into pieces and used as smaller denominations. That may be what your last piece is, or it could just be a remnant of a damaged coin. The cross with castles and lions can be seen on all three pieces. This was considered the obverse of the Peruvian coins, but it was on the reverse of coins from some of the other Spanish colonies.

I doubt anyone's going to laugh you off the site. As long as you're willing to learn, we're willing to offer our opinions. You are correct about your cent being a small date, but there were two different compositions used to make cents that year. Brass, which had been used since 1962, and copper coated zinc, which was introduced during the production of the 1982 cents. There were also two different size dates, as you know. The mints in Philadelphia and Denver minted coins for circulation with both size dates, using both compositions - except one. The only one that wasn't "officially" minted, was a 1982 D small date brass cent. A few leftover brass planchets got mixed in with the coated zinc planchets, and those are the ones that are rare. A simple test would be to weigh your coin. 3.11 grams is the magic number, but I wouldn't get my hopes up. The odds of finding one are many millions to one.

Congratulations! It's always a good feeling when you can find that last piece that you need to complete the set.

First off - Welcome to the forum. In your above posts, you compared the strike of the Heartland Collection coin to yours. While it is true that your coin appears to be more fully struck, this is only one of many criteria for determining the grade of a coin. For Mint State coins, other factors to consider are: luster, the number, size and location of contact marks, and eye appeal. However, your coin is showing wear in several places, which removes it entirely from the category of Mint State. The most obvious wear is on the top of Liberty's cap, the high points of the strands of hair, and the bust, on the obverse. On the reverse, look at the tops of the eagle's wings, the claws, and the beak and head. But, for the sake of argument, let's assume that the wear was not there. You believe your coin to be a higher grade than MS66. There are numerous tics, dings, and hits scattered over both sides. There are prominent marks on the cheek, cap, bust, clothing, and in the fields in front of and behind the portrait. There are many more on the reverse. Even without the obvious wear, these marks would put your coin in the lower MS range, and nowhere near MS66. Your coin also appears to have suspicious looking parallel lines on both sides. I have to agree with the above posts by Zadok and others. I have a feeling that it would come back from the grading service with an "altered surfaces" designation. These are probably not the responses you hoped to get, but they are honest opinions from members, some of whom are very knowledgeable.

Clear, cropped pictures, oriented correctly, would have been a great help, along with weight in grams and diameter in millimeters. But I think I found your coin anyway. Try this link: http://www.wildwinds.com/coins/sear5/s1427.html#RSC_0047

MS60

Here is a picture of the obverse from the Numismatic News site, for members who don't want to take the time to go through all of the pics and wait for all of the ads to load. As I said before, pretty impressive clash.

The obverse has a pretty impressive clash, in my opinion. It isn't often you see actual letters in the middle of a portrait.

Owning a coin with a mintage of only 25 pieces is very cool. It is definitely a keeper. Welcome to the forum.

I hope Katrina got her phone back.

Welcome to the forum. Standard weight of a '96 nickel is 5 grams, with a tolerance of .194 grams. This means that a nickel can weigh anywhere between 4.806 and 5.194 grams, so your coin is within mint tolerance. Mind if I ask what prompted you to weigh the coin in the first place? No judgement - I am just curious.

It resembles a coin of The Netherlands. According to several different sources, the inscription, MO ORDI PROVIN FOEDER BELG AD LEG IMP (MONETA ORDINUM PROVINCIARUM FOEDERATORUM BELGII AD LEGEM IMPERII) translates "regular coin of the provinces of the Belgium Confederation (or United Netherlands) by imperial decree." The only coins I have found with this combination of legend and the standing knight are 1 and 2 ducat gold coins. Yours does not appear to be gold, so I can't say what it is actually supposed to be.

I have waited three days for QA to swoop in and "defend the downtrodden." Looks like it isn't going to happen. Apparently, I am the only one who gets rebuked for speaking my mind bluntly to newbies. Oh, well. C'est la vie.

That "some guy" was Thomas L. Elder, writer, publisher, dealer, and producer of tokens and medals, and one of the organizers of the New York Numismatic Club. (J Sanford Saltus was also a founding member. Look him up for a tale of misadventure.) Tom Delorey (CaptHenway)_ has written a book cataloguing his tokens.

The variety number refers to the lathe lines in the obverse above the shield and in the lower part of the shield. There were apparently several dies with this effect, but I can't tell if yours is an exact match for this variety. I am also having trouble figuring out the weird strike on your coin. Here are pictures from NGC's Variety Plus: