Just Bob

So many of these were replated by aftermarket sellers to make them shiny and more appealing to the public. It is nice to see one with original surfaces. Whatever you do, don't try to buff it, or clean it, or alter the surfaces in any way. That would ruin your coin. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your collection.

It is also listed in Keith Davignon's "Contemporary Counterfeit Capped Bust Half Dollars" 2nd edition as 1837 2/B. Interestingly, this same reverse die was used in 1833, 1836, and 1838 to coin other counterfeit half dollars. All had lettered edges.

I would call this one VF, and put the value at around $60 - $70, judging by recent sales on Ebay. That is, assuming it is genuine.

Yeah, I've been feeling the same way about Mississippi tokens. Although, I have to say that I have been enjoying seeing all the unlisted tokens that have been appearing. I've added several entries to my token book. Not just unknown issuers, but also unlisted denominations of existing tokens. I'm not sure if anyone is putting this new information on Tokencatalog.com, but, if not, I will post them on there after the auction is over. I've also been keeping a record of prices realized, not just of this auction, but anything else I can find on the web. That's something I used to do several years ago, but got out of the habit. That will be more information that I can put on the website for future collectors to use. I've been able to keep my spending under control, more or less. I decide, when a token is posted, how much I'm willing to pay. I'll put in my bid, and if it gets outbid, I just let it go. I have been the under bidder on far more auctions than I have won. Being outbid by just a dollar sometimes makes me want to put in one more bid, but, so far I've been able to resist the urge. I am watching one now that I really want. It's the last one I need to complete a set from a particular mill. I've only seen one other one come up for auction, and that was over a year ago. I got out bid on it because I wasn't paying attention. (I actually know where one other example is, but Tony Chibbaro has it, and he doesn't want to sell it out right. He wants to swap it for a South Carolina token. How could I possibly find a South Carolina token that Tony doesn't have already?) I'm changing my strategy and watching this one without bidding. I'm hoping that the prices remain low so that I can put in a bid at the last minute. We will see how that goes.

Welcome to the forum.

I recently purchased this token from Steve Hayden, one of the leading token dealers in the country. He is currently selling a collection of lumber company tokens that contained over 14,000 pieces. Several of the members of this forum are following this sale, and at least two have won tokens in this auction. I have been bidding like crazy, but have not been able to out bid the competition very often. Prices are really strong right now. This token is unlisted in the MS token book, and the company is not listed on the MS Sec of State website. The following information is from Ebay seller Armagosa1: A June 1917 Draft Record exists for Clinton Kelley Nixon, born June 25, 1890, listed as “Manufacturers Of Lumber”, self employed and living at Paden, Mississippi. C. K. Nixon is listed as “Saw Mill” at Paden, Mississippi in the 1918 Dun. The 1919 Bradstreet lists J. F. Nixon & Brother as “General Store” and C. K. Nixon as “Planing Mill” at Paden. The 1920 Census notes Clinton K. Nixon (age 29) as “Overseer, Own Lumber Mills” with his home at Paden, Tishomingo county, Mississippi. C. K. Nixon doesn’t show up again until 1923 in the D&B’s as “Mfr Lbr & Saw Mill” at Paden. The Oct 15, 1921 The Southern Lumberman includes a notice under Tishomingo, Mississippi: “October 11th the C. K. Nixon sawmill, near Paden, was destroyed by fire at a late hour last night. All lumber on the yard was saved. This is the third sawmill fire in this section within a month”.

Nice coin! She's a looker, for sure. Welcome to the forum.

When the coin that sold for $19,200 was auctioned, there were only three graded at that level at PCGS. As Sandon stated above, there are now 6. Someone (actually 2 "someones") wanted that coin badly - probably for their PCGS registry set. That is the most likely explanation for the price going so high. The most recent auction of a '76 silver in PCGS MS69 that I could find was in December, 2021. It went for $6600, including juice. I think it is safe to assume that there will never be another one of these quarters that will sell for anywhere near $19k, unless someone finds one that grades MS70. To the OP: it is impossible to accurately grade your coin from the pictures provided (and even with perfect pictures, grading without seeing the coin in hand is just a matter of educated guessing). However, I don't think your coin would grade high enough to make it worth more than a few dollars. There are several examples graded MS 67 on Ebay right now that are for sale for under $30, and I doubt yours would reach that grade. ,

Do you remember the name of the dealer?

Good point. There is a lot of assuming and jumping to hasty conclusions on this board - and I am as guilty as anyone.

That's impressive. I can't imagine how much time it would take to build something like that.

Welcome to the forum. Your 1864 two cent piece, a Large Motto variety, looks pretty nice for the grade, judging by your pictures. Other than a few rim dings, it doesn't look too banged up. It does appear to have a bit of wear, which would put it in the AU grade range, and it is sporting a couple of interesting die cracks. The weak "6" is likely the result of a partially grease-filled recess in the die, which did not allow the numeral to be fully struck. It also has a fingerprint on the obverse side, which some collectors are put off by, but doesn't really bother me. Although it is hard to tell just from pictures, it doesn't look to me as if it has been cleaned. I would put the value at around $100, so I don't think it would be worth the cost to have it graded. If it were mine, I would put it in an album or 2x2 and enjoy it as it is.

The Mathis general store was in operation in Walnut, Mississippi from 1911 - 1940. Mathis and sons also operated a stave mill in the same town. This 10 cent token is listed as R9 (2-3 known).

I'm not sure what your point is, but if you're thinking that acid has a pH from 0 to 14, you are reading that wrong. The term "basic" is another word for "alkaline".

An acid, by definition, has a PH <7. Anything with a PH higher than 7 is considered an alkaline. Even in its most dilute form, an acid cannot have a PH above neutral (7).

If that is the definition of numismatist, I fear we have set the bar way too low. I have a fairly extensive, well-rounded numismatic book collection, which I read and consult frequently. I also do a good bit of reading online, as well as watching videos of lectures and presentations. I'm on the couch every night with my laptop and pen & notepad, making notes and recording auction results of the tokens that I collect, and other coins that I am interested in. However, in no way do I consider myself a true numismatist. I am just a guy who likes coins and tokens.

If you are referring to John Feigenbaum, he is the son of the late David Lawrence Feigenbaum, founder of David Lawrence Rare Coins.

I went after one of those recently. It sold for about $100 more than my bid. If token prices keep climbing, I may have to move into collecting stamps.

If you're using an Android phone you can touch the button that says "Add Files". That will open up your photo file on your phone. Select the picture you want to post, and it should upload automatically. If the file size is too big, try opening the picture with your phone's editing software and crop the picture to the edge of the coin on all sides. While you're at it, make sure your coin is oriented correctly. In other words make sure Abe isn't standing on his head. (Actually, you should do this whether your file size is too big or not.) If the file is still too big, you will have to resize the picture. This can possibly be done with your phone software, as well. I'm not sure if it works the same way on an iphone. I've never owned one.

( I started typing this reply when there were only three responses to the OP, but got sidetracked. Much of what I wanted to say has already been said by other posters, but I am going to post it any way.) The tone of your post sounds like you are blaming NGC for not finding errors on coins that have no errors. To begin with, re-punched mint marks and doubled dies are not actually mint errors. They are die varieties, and should be submitted as such. If your coins were submitted as errors, then they were sent to an error specialist who looks for things like planchet flaws, broadstrikes, struck-through errors, etc. They should have been submitted for variety attribution after first consulting NGC's Variety Plus, which lists the varieties that they recognize. Secondly, if you are a seasoned veteran with many years of experience collecting coins and searching and finding error coins, then please disregard the following assumptions: Most of the questions that we get from newcomers regarding what they think are valuable error coins are about coins that are either damaged, or have worthless strike doubling. You didn't say whether you had purchased the coins you sent in, or found them in circulation, but, the chances of finding 30 coins in circulation that are all genuine errors, or even varieties, are very slim. Is it possible that the doubling that you see on your coins is not, in fact, hub doubling, but is actually strike doubling? If this is the case, then this is not something that NGC or any other third-party grader recognizes as an actual error or variety. It's really just poor quality control on the part of the mint, and is considered by most collectors to be a form of damage. (Again, if this does not apply to you, please accept my apologies.) Thirdly, your advice to not send in for attribution coins that have minor doubling not visible to the naked eye is excellent advice. I hope more people will follow it.

Welcome to the forum. If that were my coin, I would leave it just the way it is. I definitely would not have it put in a slab. Just my opinion, of course.

Those are gorgeous. Steve has quality tokens, that's for sure. His auctions often bring prices that other sellers can't get.

According to CoinfinderDave's first post, his coin has no date. That is probably why he asked how to tell what the composition was. To Dave: if you are using your phone to take pics and post here, try using the edit function to crop your photo. If that doesn't reduce the file size under 4.88 MB, then use the edit function to resize. If your phone does not have this capability, your app store should have a free app to edit photos. If using a pc or laptop, MSPaint is the perhaps easiest way to resize. I reduce most of my pictures by 50%, or more, and they are still large enough to see details without taking up the whole page.

If you sell at auction, I want a copy of the catalog.