1969 satin like penny. 1 1

[Wnyku]

Hello. I m a newbie, but just started checking my big bottle of pennies, that I collected for so many years. One penny have a strange, different than other's appearance. It’s like satin or something like that. It’s not easy to show it in picture so I did two pictures in different lights setting from different angles. Any one know what’s that ? Thank’s for any info. 
‘Also have one more question. Is there in Queens any place of NGC dealer that I can go to grade my coins ? Thank You. 

[Hoghead515]

Its just a regular copper cent. It just toned that color. Its not worth sending in for grading. Only worth face value or its metal content worth of copper.

NGC is based in Florida. Thats where they do all their grading in the US other than at coin shows. They do have a dealers list that shows local dealers who you can get to submit coins for you. Its located on their site somewhere. Just have to navigate it and find it. If your new it would be best to submit through a dealer. They can help you weed through and pick what coins are worth submitting. If they are not worth at least 3 or 4 hundred dollars they are not worth grading. Its pretty expensive after all the fees such as insurance, shipping, grading, and others. Good luck.

[Greenstang]

Welcome to the ChatBoards

To answer you second question first, google ”NGC Dealers” and enter your address, it will give you   
the closet dealer to where you live.

Hoghead covered it pretty good. It will cost around $60.00 to have a coin graded so unless you have a high grade
(which I doubt you have if they are in a jar) or a rare error or variety, it would certainly not be worth the cost to grade.  
Suggest if there is anything you think is worth grading, post a clear photo of both sides on this site, each coin on it’s own thread and there will be someone hear that can tell you if it is worth grading or to save your money.

[Sandon]

   Welcome to the NGC chat board.

   Based on your photos, your coin is a normal, lightly circulated 1969-D Lincoln cent, of which over four billion were struck. There is no report of the Denver mint, where these were minted, having struck any with a special finish.  Whatever you may see that you think is out of the ordinary, it is almost certainly the result of something that happened to the coin while it was in circulation.

[Wnyku]

On 9/13/2023 at 3:54 AM, Hoghead515 said:

Its just a regular copper cent. It just toned that color. Its not worth sending in for grading. Only worth face value or its metal content worth of copper.

NGC is based in Florida. Thats where they do all their grading in the US other than at coin shows. They do have a dealers list that shows local dealers who you can get to submit coins for you. Its located on their site somewhere. Just have to navigate it and find it. If your new it would be best to submit through a dealer. They can help you weed through and pick what coins are worth submitting. If they are not worth at least 3 or 4 hundred dollars they are not worth grading. Its pretty expensive after all the fees such as insurance, shipping, grading, and others. Good luck.

Thank You so much. About those dealers, that can help me to pick coins worth submitting. How to find a good and trusted in my area? Any one you can suggest to me in Queens? Or how should I look for them in Google?  Just a coin dealer? Or there is a special name for it? Just don’t want to get robbed lol. Found few coins with errors and want to make sure if they worth submitting. For example L in liberty is an error yes? Thanks a lot again. ❤️

Edited September 13, 2023 by Wnyku

[Wnyku]

On 9/13/2023 at 7:05 AM, Greenstang said:

Welcome to the ChatBoards

To answer you second question first, google ”NGC Dealers” and enter your address, it will give you   
the closet dealer to where you live.

Hoghead covered it pretty good. It will cost around $60.00 to have a coin graded so unless you have a high grade
(which I doubt you have if they are in a jar) or a rare error or variety, it would certainly not be worth the cost to grade.  
Suggest if there is anything you think is worth grading, post a clear photo of both sides on this site, each coin on it’s own thread and there will be someone hear that can tell you if it is worth grading or to save your money.

Thank You ❤️. I will do that then, will post whatever interesting will come to my attention. Thanks again. 

[Wnyku]

On 9/13/2023 at 10:02 AM, Sandon said:

   Welcome to the NGC chat board.

   Based on your photos, your coin is a normal, lightly circulated 1969-D Lincoln cent, of which over four billion were struck. There is no report of the Denver mint, where these were minted, having struck any with a special finish.  Whatever you may see that you think is out of the ordinary, it is almost certainly the result of something that happened to the coin while it was in circulation.

Thank You !! ❤️

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

@Wnyku  Welcome to the forum and collecting.  Unfortunately, I think you will find very little in circulation that is worth submission. This is not to say it never happens, but modern coins (after 1964) really have to be in exquisite shape (meaning that you cannot see marks or wear at high 5-10X).  While everyone dreams of digging into their pockets and finding a high-dollar coin, it is not the reality.

This coin would be a good first coin for an album/folder.  Whitman try-fold folders are inexpensive and are a good way to organize (and somewhat protect) a circulated coin collection.  As you collect, constantly look for examples in better condition than the present.  You will have a lot of fun and learn a lot as you go.

Helpful tip - Go to eBay (or ideally a coin show) and look at as many graded examples as you can in your series of interest.  See what your Lincoln cent looks like in a graded (NGC or PCGS) holder in AU55 vs MS62 vs MS67.  Then, look at the prices of those coins.  You will notice that the cost of these coins in MS64-65 will generally be MUCH less expensive than submitting the coins (paying shipping, insurance, membership fees, submission fees, etc.).  And... you will have a guaranteed grade to boot.  

Besides learning the market... looking at graded coins all the time will train your eyes to recognize grades.  What's more, it will train your eyes to know if it is a "nice" MS62 or a "Dog" MS62 (both exist).  Focus on understanding quality, and you will grow in acumen very quickly.  If you do not delevop this skill, you will have to 100% depend on trusting graders (and as the prior statement insinuates, they do not always get it right).

So... you really want to look at your coin and think "is mine better than what I can find online for less that the complete cost of grading?  If so, how much better?  Do I know quality and wear patterns enough in this series to take the gamble?  If I am buying graded, what is the price difference b/w an MS64 vs a MS65, MS66, etc.  (There is generally a gradual increase in pricing until you hit a point of conditional rarity).  If one example is prices SO much less than the others of it's kind and grade, can you identify a reason that it is priced "too low" (see "dog" comment above).

Remember, I am saying LOOK and LEARN (NOT BUY).  You can learn a LOT window shopping without incurring costs.

I know I said a lot there... Happy to clarify any points.  The largest pitfalls for new, budding collectors is 1)not understanding quality and it's impacts on the value of coins and 2) going after errors without really understanding the minting process and how errors can/cannot be made.  If you can avoid those two pitfalls, you will be ahead of many other new collectors.

Good luck.

Neo.

[Sandon]

       NGC has a dealer locater under the "Resources" tab on its home page. Here is a direct link: Find Coin Shops & Dealers | [[DealerLocator.MainSection]] | NGC (ngccoin.com). Any reputable dealer should be able to verify that your 1969-D cent has no premium value.  

On 9/13/2023 at 12:20 PM, Wnyku said:

Found few coins with errors and want to make sure if they worth submitting. For example L in liberty is an error yes?

    You seem to be under the impression that minor anomalies on coins are valuable mint errors or that valuable mint errors and varieties are regularly found in circulation. This is incorrect, notwithstanding it being frequently stated or implied by various posters on sites such as YouTube. In fact, it is unusual--a once in a lifetime event, if that-- to find any die variety or mint error (two different categories) of any real value to collectors.  

    If you are new to coin collecting, submitting coins to grading services is the last thing you should be doing. You must learn how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins for yourself before you can determine whether your coins have sufficient value to be worth submitting. See the following topics for guidance as to print and online resources to help you in this process:

   You should also attend coin shows and coin club meetings where you can see a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers.

[VKurtB]

This OP needs to "steel" himself for the EXTREMELY LIKELY outcome that there may not be even ONE SINGLE COIN in his big bottle of cents that is worth a flying you-know-what. This hobby doesn't work the way he thinks it does, as @Sandon has so eloquently stated. The likelihood of finding even ONE "penny" in a 5-gallon drum that is worth submitting UNLESS THERE ARE EXTREMELY UNTOUCHED UNCIRCULATED stuff in there, is near zero. Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny are far more real than the Coin Fairy is.

When searching coins, seek PERFECTION and largely forget about seeking IMPERFECTIONS.

Edited September 13, 2023 by VKurtB

[powermad5000]

Hello and welcome!

Your cent has what is called "woodgrain" toning. It is just a pattern of the toning that some cents had most likely due to something in the cleaning process after annealing the blanks. It adds no value to the cent you have.

As previously stated, on this page, go to "Resources" and in the drop down menu, go to "Locate Dealers" and put in your information there. NGC does not have "dealers" per se as they are only a grading service. NGC does not buy, sell, or speculate on coins, they only grade them. The dealers that come up in the Locate Dealers list are simply ones who accept coins from people and submit them on behalf those people who are not NGC members.

[Wnyku]

On 9/13/2023 at 12:56 PM, The Neophyte Numismatist said:

@Wnyku  Welcome to the forum and collecting.  Unfortunately, I think you will find very little in circulation that is worth submission. This is not to say it never happens, but modern coins (after 1964) really have to be in exquisite shape (meaning that you cannot see marks or wear at high 5-10X).  While everyone dreams of digging into their pockets and finding a high-dollar coin, it is not the reality.

This coin would be a good first coin for an album/folder.  Whitman try-fold folders are inexpensive and are a good way to organize (and somewhat protect) a circulated coin collection.  As you collect, constantly look for examples in better condition than the present.  You will have a lot of fun and learn a lot as you go.

Helpful tip - Go to eBay (or ideally a coin show) and look at as many graded examples as you can in your series of interest.  See what your Lincoln cent looks like in a graded (NGC or PCGS) holder in AU55 vs MS62 vs MS67.  Then, look at the prices of those coins.  You will notice that the cost of these coins in MS64-65 will generally be MUCH less expensive than submitting the coins (paying shipping, insurance, membership fees, submission fees, etc.).  And... you will have a guaranteed grade to boot.  

Besides learning the market... looking at graded coins all the time will train your eyes to recognize grades.  What's more, it will train your eyes to know if it is a "nice" MS62 or a "Dog" MS62 (both exist).  Focus on understanding quality, and you will grow in acumen very quickly.  If you do not delevop this skill, you will have to 100% depend on trusting graders (and as the prior statement insinuates, they do not always get it right).

So... you really want to look at your coin and think "is mine better than what I can find online for less that the complete cost of grading?  If so, how much better?  Do I know quality and wear patterns enough in this series to take the gamble?  If I am buying graded, what is the price difference b/w an MS64 vs a MS65, MS66, etc.  (There is generally a gradual increase in pricing until you hit a point of conditional rarity).  If one example is prices SO much less than the others of it's kind and grade, can you identify a reason that it is priced "too low" (see "dog" comment above).

Remember, I am saying LOOK and LEARN (NOT BUY).  You can learn a LOT window shopping without incurring costs.

I know I said a lot there... Happy to clarify any points.  The largest pitfalls for new, budding collectors is 1)not understanding quality and it's impacts on the value of coins and 2) going after errors without really understanding the minting process and how errors can/cannot be made.  If you can avoid those two pitfalls, you will be ahead of many other new collectors.

Good luck.

Neo.

Thank You so much, that clarifying a lot and yes I already studying a lot about any coin I found interesting. Any possible errors in those years etc. There is so much to learn. I will be posting coins that can be interesting here on the beginning to get help as I m starting. Also very good tip about eBay comparison and estimating if it’s worth to submit. Again, Thank You so much. ❤️❤️

[Wnyku]

On 9/13/2023 at 1:00 PM, Sandon said:

       NGC has a dealer locater under the "Resources" tab on its home page. Here is a direct link: Find Coin Shops & Dealers | [[DealerLocator.MainSection]] | NGC (ngccoin.com). Any reputable dealer should be able to verify that your 1969-D cent has no premium value.  

    You seem to be under the impression that minor anomalies on coins are valuable mint errors or that valuable mint errors and varieties are regularly found in circulation. This is incorrect, notwithstanding it being frequently stated or implied by various posters on sites such as YouTube. In fact, it is unusual--a once in a lifetime event, if that-- to find any die variety or mint error (two different categories) of any real value to collectors.  

    If you are new to coin collecting, submitting coins to grading services is the last thing you should be doing. You must learn how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins for yourself before you can determine whether your coins have sufficient value to be worth submitting. See the following topics for guidance as to print and online resources to help you in this process:

   You should also attend coin shows and coin club meetings where you can see a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers.

Thank You ❤️, will check the links and yes😜, I m under that impression. But I will post my findings and I hope you guys will put me in right place 😜. Thank You. 

[Wnyku]

On 9/13/2023 at 2:28 PM, powermad5000 said:

Hello and welcome!

Your cent has what is called "woodgrain" toning. It is just a pattern of the toning that some cents had most likely due to something in the cleaning process after annealing the blanks. It adds no value to the cent you have.

As previously stated, on this page, go to "Resources" and in the drop down menu, go to "Locate Dealers" and put in your information there. NGC does not have "dealers" per se as they are only a grading service. NGC does not buy, sell, or speculate on coins, they only grade them. The dealers that come up in the Locate Dealers list are simply ones who accept coins from people and submit them on behalf those people who are not NGC members.

Thank you. They can also tell me if it’s worth to submit it? Or they just accepting them? 

[Greenstang]

Suggest for awhile that you post a clear photo of each coin that you think is worth submitting and we have many knowledgeable people on here you can tell you if it is worth the cost or not to have graded.
So many new collectors get damage and anomalies mixed up with true errors which are extremely hard to find in the wild and they want to submit them for grading which is just a waste of money. It can only be an error if it happens during the striking of the coin, anything that happens after that it’s is damage which in 99% of the time is the case.

Look at this site to see what actual errors are and see if you have anything that looks like them.  error-ref.com

[EagleRJO]

On 9/13/2023 at 5:22 PM, Wnyku said:

They can also tell me if it’s worth to submit it?

The coin should be worth at least around $300 in order for it to be worth submitting.  The coin you posted is not one of these.  See the links Sandon posted to help in evaluating how much coins are worth.

[Wnyku]

On 9/13/2023 at 6:12 PM, Greenstang said:

Suggest for awhile that you post a clear photo of each coin that you think is worth submitting and we have many knowledgeable people on here you can tell you if it is worth the cost or not to have graded.
So many new collectors get damage and anomalies mixed up with true errors which are extremely hard to find in the wild and they want to submit them for grading which is just a waste of money. It can only be an error if it happens during the striking of the coin, anything that happens after that it’s is damage which in 99% of the time is the case.

Look at this site to see what actual errors are and see if you have anything that looks like them.  error-ref.com

Thank You, will do. ❤️

[Sandon]

On 9/13/2023 at 5:22 PM, Wnyku said:

They can also tell me if it’s worth to submit it?

    Dealers will usually give you some idea of a coin's value and whether the coin is worth submitting. You may wish to contact the dealer before visiting his shop to determine their willingness to do so and arrange a convenient time. Bear in mind that coin dealers are often busy and may not have the time to look at a large number of pieces at once. 

   Please bear in mind that if the coins you want to show them are pieces you took from pocket change, it is extremely unlikely that you have anything that would be worth submitting to a grading service. I've been collecting coins and checking my and other people's change for over 50 years and have never found anything of such value. The few legitimate mint errors I've found over the years--a blank cent planchet and a couple of broadstruck quarters--would only be worth a few dollars each.

    You may find the following article by Jeff Garrett, a highly experienced dealer and former president of the American Numismatic Association, informative: Jeff Garrett: The Art of Rare Coin Submissions | NGC (ngccoin.com). I urge you to read it.     

On 9/13/2023 at 5:14 PM, Wnyku said:

Any possible errors in those years

    The date of a coin is generally irrelevant to whether or not the coin exhibits a mint error. You may be confusing mint errors with die varieties. A mint error is an individual coin that was improperly manufactured in some way.  As such, they are not listed by date and mint.  A die variety is a coin struck from dies that had some distinctive characteristic, so that every coin struck from those dies shows that characteristic. See Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com).

[Wnyku]

On 9/13/2023 at 6:21 PM, Sandon said:

    Dealers will usually give you some idea of a coin's value and whether the coin is worth submitting. You may wish to contact the dealer before visiting his shop to determine their willingness to do so and arrange a convenient time. Bear in mind that coin dealers are often busy and may not have the time to look at a large number of pieces at once. 

   Please bear in mind that if the coins you want to show them are pieces you took from pocket change, it is extremely unlikely that you have anything that would be worth submitting to a grading service. I've been collecting coins and checking my and other people's change for over 50 years and have never found anything of such value. The few legitimate mint errors I've found over the years--a blank cent planchet and a couple of broadstruck quarters--would only be worth a few dollars each.

    You may find the following article by Jeff Garrett, a highly experienced dealer and former president of the American Numismatic Association, informative: Jeff Garrett: The Art of Rare Coin Submissions | NGC (ngccoin.com). I urge you to read it.     

    The date of a coin is generally irrelevant to whether or not the coin exhibits a mint error. You may be confusing mint errors with die varieties. A mint error is an individual coin that was improperly manufactured in some way.  As such, they are not listed by date and mint.  A die variety is a coin struck from dies that had some distinctive characteristic, so that every coin struck from those dies shows that characteristic. See Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com).

Thank You. I will read the article for sure. So witch coins are worth more. Die variety or mint errors. I found few with errors like no L in Liberty or double die in Lincoln face. I will post them later. When DD is considered worth something ? Because I have quite few already with DD on them. Sorry, I know it can be funny for you but I m totally newbie in that 😜. But even tho I found that so interesting and reading day and night. I found 1982 no mint, small date 3.1g with some DD and errors. I think that one will be worth few $ but I may be wrong. I know already that the most expensive will be D mint, small date and bronze one but the one I have with no D mark, have so many errors. Well , still learning and thank You so much for any advice ❤️❤️. 

Edited September 14, 2023 by Wnyku

[Hoghead515]

On 9/13/2023 at 8:31 PM, Wnyku said:

Thank You. I will read the article for sure. So witch coins are worth more. Die variety or mint errors. I found few with errors like no L in Liberty or double die in Lincoln face. I will post them later. When DD is considered worth something ? Because I have quite few already with DD on them. Sorry, I know it can be funny for you but I m totally newbie in that 😜. But even tho I found that so interesting and reading day and night. I found 1982 no mint, small date 3.1g with some DD and errors. I think that one will be worth few $ but I may be wrong. I know already that the most expensive will be D mint, small date and bronze one but the one I have with no D mark, have so many errors. Well , still learning and thank You so much for any advice ❤️❤️. 

Most of the DD coins you find in circulation is machine doubling. Its a worthless type of doubling. True DDs are very rare to find in circulation and most of them are only worth a few bucks depending on which ones and the condition of the coin. Machine doubling is very common. If you roll hunt you will find it on several coins. Ive looked through hundreds and hundreds of coins the past few years and only found 2 true DD coins. And they are not worth much but still fun for me to collect. 

[Hoghead515]

Most of the things you think are errors will turn out to be damage and anomalies from worn dies. Its very rare to find true mint errors. If I were you I would study up on the minting process and how true errors are made. Theres many good books and information on the topic. And if you think you found a true dd then go to NGC variety plus or variety vista and compare yours to the known double dies they have listed. If you find one thst matches yours then you may have one. If it dosent match any of the known ones then more than likely its machine doubling. 

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

On 9/13/2023 at 8:31 PM, Wnyku said:

Thank You. I will read the article for sure. So witch coins are worth more. Die variety or mint errors. I found few with errors like no L in Liberty or double die in Lincoln face. I will post them later. When DD is considered worth something ? Because I have quite few already with DD on them. Sorry, I know it can be funny for you but I m totally newbie in that 😜. But even tho I found that so interesting and reading day and night. I found 1982 no mint, small date 3.1g with some DD and errors. I think that one will be worth few $ but I may be wrong. I know already that the most expensive will be D mint, small date and bronze one but the one I have with no D mark, have so many errors. Well , still learning and thank You so much for any advice ❤️❤️. 

I beg you.  Do not go down the circulated error rabbit hole.  You may find one, but that path is paved with the dead bodies of new and unsuccessful collectors.  Generally, they go mad along the way swearing that the coin they found in the parking lot is the rarest unattributed error of all time (and sometimes these people are finding 5-10 a day [think about that for a second]).

Learn quality, mintages and survival rates, the minting process.  Learn the fundamentals, and you will be in a much better position to take-on errors, varieties and other more advanced areas of numismatics.

Edited September 14, 2023 by The Neophyte Numismatist

[Wnyku]

On 9/13/2023 at 9:37 PM, Hoghead515 said:

Most of the things you think are errors will turn out to be damage and anomalies from worn dies. Its very rare to find true mint errors. If I were you I would study up on the minting process and how true errors are made. Theres many good books and information on the topic. And if you think you found a true dd then go to NGC variety plus or variety vista and compare yours to the known double dies they have listed. If you find one thst matches yours then you may have one. If it dosent match any of the known ones then more than likely its machine doubling. 

Can you please explain more what do you mean by true mint error? I would love to learn as much as i can. Is that true error ? This is 1988 Lincoln penny. Thank You. 

Edited September 14, 2023 by Wnyku

[Sandon]

On 9/13/2023 at 8:31 PM, Wnyku said:

So which coins are worth more. Die variety or mint errors.

  There is no answer to your question, as it incorrectly assumes that die varieties and mint errors are each valued as a group. There are both low and higher value pieces in each group. There are literally thousands of different die varieties across all U.S. coin series and dozens of different types of mint errors. (Doubled dies are considered die varieties, notwithstanding that the mint does not intend to create dies that display them.)

    Only a relatively small group of die varieties, mostly those that are listed in the "Redbook" or other widely available guides tend to have sufficient appeal to most collectors to have any real value. Most others are only of interest to relatively small group of mostly advanced, specialized collectors. Those die varieties that NGC will attribute are listed and mostly illustrated in NGC VarietyPlus. See United States Categories | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com) (U.S. coin varieties). Unlike coins by date and mint, most die varieties (except for the popular ones listed in the "Redbook" and other major guides) sell sporadically, so it is difficult to establish firm market prices for them by grade.

   Mint errors are especially difficult to value, as no two are alike. Valuation usually depends on how apparent and interesting the error is. Coins that were clearly multiple struck in different positions, struck on planchets intended for other denominations of coins or struck on planchets composed of the wrong metal are examples of those that likely have values of three figures or more.

   So far all of your questions are about mint errors and die varieties. Do you understand that the vast majority of U.S. coin collectors collect by dates and mints (and a few major varieties) of particular series or by design types and that the collection of mint errors and most die varieties are specialties of smaller groups of mostly advanced collectors? Out of 468 pages, the standard "Redbook" devotes only 4 to mint errors.

   Do you have and have you studied a recent edition of the "Redbook", officially titled A Guide Book of United States Coins, which is the basic guide to U.S. coins? Do you have and have you studied a grading guide? Without an understanding of the basic information in these books, it is very difficult to grasp the nuances of variety and error collecting.  My topic "Resources for New Collectors" to which I've already provided a link, explains how you can obtain these and other basic resources. 

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

This was taken from a response I received from Jon Sullivan on MyCollect when I asked him to break-down the true definition (and distinction) between Mint Errors, Die Varieties and Die States.  Jon is an expert dealer in mint errors. 

• Mint errors are anything "not on the die itself." As a result, mint errors never repeat themselves exactly (all off-centers are different slightly, for example.) Cuds, die clashes, prepunched dates, etc are all "die varieties."
• Varieties always occur on the die itself. The are anomalies of one kind of another on the die (outside the "norm" for that die's design, etc.)
• Die state: the state of the die in its life cycle. A late die state is towards the end of it's like, and early die state is still relatively new, with few flow lines, die fatigue etc.

What you have here is a grease filled die.  Grease filled the L in "Liberty" and when it was struck, the L was unable to strike-up because of the grease.  Technically, it is an error, because the grease can move and it is not in the die (as defined above).  However, grease filled dies are fairly common, so unless they are dramatic, they not not very valuable.  However, this is a good example to study, and you will be able to continue to look for grease-filled dies and other strikethroughs when you look through your coins.

Edited September 14, 2023 by The Neophyte Numismatist

[Sandon]

On 9/13/2023 at 10:10 PM, Wnyku said:

Can you please explain more what do you mean by true mint error? I would love to learn as much as i can. Is that true error ? Thank You. 

  When you post photos coins about which you have questions, please post clear cropped photos of the full obverse and reverse of each coin, as well as what you think is a pertinent closeup. It is also best to start a new topic for each coin about which you have questions.

   No, a single mostly filled letter, likely resulting from foreign matter on the die or die wear would not be considered a mint error by a knowledgeable collector, nor would it be attributed as a mint error by NGC or other reputable grading services. It would simply be considered a quality control issue and likely is within the mint's standards for acceptable coins. 

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

On 9/13/2023 at 10:48 PM, Sandon said:

 

   No, a single mostly filled letter, likely resulting from foreign matter on the die or die wear would not be considered a mint error by a knowledgeable collector, nor would it be attributed as a mint error by NGC or other reputable grading services. It would simply be considered a quality control issue and likely is within the mint's standards for acceptable coins. 

@Sandon is 100% correct when he says this would not be recognized, and it is not worth money over face.  I don't want to confuse you with conflicting information.  In this case, he is accurate.  However, if there were lots of grease that were struck through (impacting the design), it would be designated as an error.  THIS is why you should really take things slow and study the nuances.  This hobby has lots of interesting areas, I can't stress enough that errors are a challenging place to start.

Edited September 14, 2023 by The Neophyte Numismatist

[powermad5000]

On 9/13/2023 at 4:22 PM, Wnyku said:

They can also tell me if it’s worth to submit it?

They may mention something, but most likely not. Many people submit coins for an umbrella of reasons. I would say these dealers will not guide you as to which coins you should submit and which are not worth submitting. As the others on here have suggested, you would do better to post your coins here one at a time and ask on this forum which are worth submitting and which are not. Also, as others have stated, you should get yourself familiar with the basics of coins and grading before moving into the world of error coins. Errors are a whole different thing with their own set of parameters. They are also the small minority of all coins made so you are better for now to focus on the basics and also ask us if you find anything you think may be an error. Before asking us about every small thing you might think is an error, please check the website error-ref.com first and if you can't find it covered on there, it is most likely not an error.

I applaud your vigor to learn as much as you can about coins! Welcome to the hobby!