What are your thoughts on this Buff?

[Buffalo Head]

 

What are your thoughts? Like what grade? Does the color look right? I know what I think, now I would really like to know what you think. Thanks for any help as this RAW coin, was sent to me on approval....Joe

 

The luster is BOOMING....I know very well a guy cannot grade coins from images, I know this. Which brings up another subject. I wonder how far off in the future is 3-D imaging coins for your viewing pleasure is? Now that would be cool, eh? Just imagine.......

[Hard Times]

AT AU details - just kidding I don't know buffs....

[lehigh96]

I think that coin is a fantastically album toned Buffalo Nickel in MS65/66. I love everything about it, the color, the surfaces, the eye appeal. I wouldn't gamble buying it raw, but then again, I am a Jefferson collector. If I had your experience with the series, I would jump on this coin if you thought it was a lock for MS66.

[nunfa0]

The toning looks just as beautiful and natural as your other Buffs

[MarkFeld]

The coin looks gorgeous and gemmy, like just about everyone you post. But I have no idea how much, if any of that, is due to the imaging. As I don't think I have seen any of them in hand.

[Buffalo Head]

The coin looks gorgeous and gemmy, like just about everyone you post. But I have no idea how much, if any of that, is due to the imaging. As I don't think I have seen any of them in hand.

 

I really don't share the grades of my Buffs and I'm not sure at this point why. But if you want to know the grades of any of the Buffs I post I'll be glad to share if it will help in some way to understand the series. I don't have them all and I'm not sure, at my age, if I will ever complete my collection in the manner I would like. But the ones I do have are mostly MS and most are high grades and I always up-grade from time to time and is part of the reason I'm so slow. Eye appeal is what I'm after.

Thanks for your kind words Mark, I know your an expert and you understand the market.....Joe

[RWB]

Looks like a "buff" Buff !

[Walkerfan]

At least MS 65 *.......have you ever posted anything that I didn't like??

[jom]

Toning: It is fine. The rainbow bands are "tight" (ie close together) and that is one way to tell it's OK.

 

Luster: Can't tell...need to see it in hand.

 

Strike: Not full since hair and braid are not full and neither is the Buff's left (our right) leg.

 

Marks: Nothing of consequence.

 

Grade: MS65 to MS66 is best guess based on photo...luster is important though.

 

jom

[bsshog40]

I'm not good at grading them but I'm good at looking at them. That looks like a beauty to me Joe!!

[Buffalo Head]

Toning: It is fine. The rainbow bands are "tight" (ie close together) and that is one way to tell it's OK.

 

Luster: Can't tell...need to see it in hand.

 

Strike: Not full since hair and braid are not full and neither is the Buff's left (our right) leg.

 

Marks: Nothing of consequence.

 

Grade: MS65 to MS66 is best guess based on photo...luster is important though.

 

jom

 

The luster is superb. I love the look of this Buff and I will add it to my collection. After spending some more time over the camera I feel this shot is better exposed, I think I had to much light on the first image trying to show the rim colors....Joe

 

[coinman_23885]

MS66*

[SkyMan]

Attractive coin. (thumbs u

[jom]

Toning: It is fine. The rainbow bands are "tight" (ie close together) and that is one way to tell it's OK.

 

Luster: Can't tell...need to see it in hand.

 

Strike: Not full since hair and braid are not full and neither is the Buff's left (our right) leg.

 

Marks: Nothing of consequence.

 

Grade: MS65 to MS66 is best guess based on photo...luster is important though.

 

jom

 

The luster is superb. I love the look of this Buff and I will add it to my collection. After spending some more time over the camera I feel this shot is better exposed, I think I had to much light on the first image trying to show the rim colors.

 

Yes, it's tough to get the correct lighting in the nooks and crannies so you can see the color.

 

Whatever it grades you have to be happy with both the coin and it's PRICE. That's up to you.

 

On grading: I forgot to mention to look for hidden hair lining in the toning...again with photos that can be hidden so get some harsh lighting source (halogen) and take a close look. Since it's raw it's best to be extra careful!

 

jom

[jesbroken]

Dang, Joe. You just keep bringing them in. Of course, this is a keeper for your collection, as it fits perfectly. MS65+ would be my guess and maybe 66. Wow. I purely love your buffs.

Jim

[Buffalo Head]

Dang, Joe. You just keep bringing them in. Of course, this is a keeper for your collection, as it fits perfectly. MS65+ would be my guess and maybe 66. Wow. I purely love your buffs.

Jim

 

Thanks Jim, it's always nice to hear. I'm thinking along the same lines as far as the grade. This one carries a lot of luster and although the knot on the Indian's braid is a tad weak I believe this coin has a shot , a good shot at 66*+. That's what I think of it....Joe

[brg5658]

Insanely gorgeous Buff.

[e1cnr]

I like it

 

the obverse has the uniform peripheral toning,

and small spot in the field in front of the mouth

 

 

the reverse has me scratching my head-

generally with nickels I start with 'blue is bad;

so I would really check that toning on the reverse and see how it flows with the luster and how deep or if it floats

 

also between the legs in the field, I see the die polish lines but a couple of marks going up and down, and wonder if they are scrapes and gouges or what

 

 

I like it, but as with any purchase I make, as the price goes up, so does the

scrutiny I try to make before purchase

 

Are you going to keep it raw? or get it graded?

If you plan on grading, maybe you could get some sort of

buy-back guarantee

 

(I am thinking this coin must be priced in hundreds rather than tens)

[jesbroken]

BTW, Joe, yes the color seems right. The blue is typical of many of the Philadelphia coins that I have noticed. I don't seem to see many Denver or San Fran issues with equal amount of blueing. Check your own hoard of coins representative of the blueing--are they not mostly Philadelphia? Do you wish for me to insert this coin into your album(replacing the gorgeous golden toned existing coin)? Or do you wish to get better photographs(I think the first is great)? I notice the hair knot is a little weaker in this coin, but the rims and date are far superior to the other 24. Now I like the current 24 reverse strike a little better. What do you think?

Take care.

Jim

[Buffalo Head]

I like it

 

the obverse has the uniform peripheral toning,

and small spot in the field in front of the mouth

 

 

the reverse has me scratching my head-

generally with nickels I start with 'blue is bad;

so I would really check that toning on the reverse and see how it flows with the luster and how deep or if it floats

 

also between the legs in the field, I see the die polish lines but a couple of marks going up and down, and wonder if they are scrapes and gouges or what

 

 

I like it, but as with any purchase I make, as the price goes up, so does the

scrutiny I try to make before purchase

 

Are you going to keep it raw? or get it graded?

If you plan on grading, maybe you could get some sort of

buy-back guarantee

 

(I am thinking this coin must be priced in hundreds rather than tens)

 

This is an interesting point you make about the "blue" you speak of on the reverse . I have a friend that is a pro at this stuff and he has always told me to watch out for the toning on nickels that start with blue from the rim. He says it should "always" start with gold. Well, without going into length on this subject I'll say that's not always true, but most of the time it is. I have a couple of coins that start with blue and their graded. I think it all depends on how long the coin has been in a certain coin album. Buy back guarantees are hard to come by in my world, I go for what I know. If your not comfortable buying "raw" coins, don't........Joe

[jom]

I like it

 

the obverse has the uniform peripheral toning,

and small spot in the field in front of the mouth

 

 

the reverse has me scratching my head-

generally with nickels I start with 'blue is bad;

so I would really check that toning on the reverse and see how it flows with the luster and how deep or if it floats

 

also between the legs in the field, I see the die polish lines but a couple of marks going up and down, and wonder if they are scrapes and gouges or what

 

 

I like it, but as with any purchase I make, as the price goes up, so does the

scrutiny I try to make before purchase

 

Are you going to keep it raw? or get it graded?

If you plan on grading, maybe you could get some sort of

buy-back guarantee

 

(I am thinking this coin must be priced in hundreds rather than tens)

 

This is an interesting point you make about the "blue" you speak of on the reverse . I have a friend that is a pro at this stuff and he has always told me to watch out for the toning on nickels that start with blue from the rim. He says it should "always" start with gold. Well, without going into length on this subject I'll say that's not always true, but most of the time it is. I have a couple of coins that start with blue and their graded. I think it all depends on how long the coin has been in a certain coin album. Buy back guarantees are hard to come by in my world, I go for what I know........Joe

 

I agree with the "Blue" comment as well. There have been discussions of coins which already have natural toning that have been enhanced with some additional toning. Maybe this is the case e1cnr refers to. This would be a possible scenario with the blue here because, to me, the rainbow band is about as natural as it gets...

 

jom

[Buffalo Head]

I like it

 

the obverse has the uniform peripheral toning,

and small spot in the field in front of the mouth

 

 

the reverse has me scratching my head-

generally with nickels I start with 'blue is bad;

so I would really check that toning on the reverse and see how it flows with the luster and how deep or if it floats

 

also between the legs in the field, I see the die polish lines but a couple of marks going up and down, and wonder if they are scrapes and gouges or what

 

 

I like it, but as with any purchase I make, as the price goes up, so does the

scrutiny I try to make before purchase

 

Are you going to keep it raw? or get it graded?

If you plan on grading, maybe you could get some sort of

buy-back guarantee

 

(I am thinking this coin must be priced in hundreds rather than tens)

 

This is an interesting point you make about the "blue" you speak of on the reverse . I have a friend that is a pro at this stuff and he has always told me to watch out for the toning on nickels that start with blue from the rim. He says it should "always" start with gold. Well, without going into length on this subject I'll say that's not always true, but most of the time it is. I have a couple of coins that start with blue and their graded. I think it all depends on how long the coin has been in a certain coin album. Buy back guarantees are hard to come by in my world, I go for what I know........Joe

 

I agree with the "Blue" comment as well. There have been discussions of coins which already have natural toning that have been enhanced with some additional toning. Maybe this is the case e1cnr refers to. This would be a possible scenario with the blue here because, to me, the rainbow band is about as natural as it gets...

 

jom

 

I'll tell ya, this coin is just fine. Not only is it just fine, I feel it is star worthy and I really don't see any problems. Could I be wrong? It's possible, but I have handled enough Buffs to make my own educated decision.

[Coindude]

The coin looks gorgeous and gemmy, like just about everyone you post. But I have no idea how much, if any of that, is due to the imaging. As I don't think I have seen any of them in hand.

Mark, I will have to tell you that, I've seen coins in hand that Joe has taken pictures of, and I'll have to say, he's extremely accurate for color. I too thought maybe Joe's pictures were a little juiced when I first saw them, but now I'm just amazed at the coins Joe posts. So, I hope that's at least a little clearer for you in that Joe's photo skills on toned coins are absolutely amazing.

[lehigh96]

This is an interesting point you make about the "blue" you speak of on the reverse . I have a friend that is a pro at this stuff and he has always told me to watch out for the toning on nickels that start with blue from the rim. He says it should "always" start with gold. Well, without going into length on this subject I'll say that's not always true, but most of the time it is. I have a couple of coins that start with blue and their graded. I think it all depends on how long the coin has been in a certain coin album. Buy back guarantees are hard to come by in my world, I go for what I know. If your not comfortable buying "raw" coins, don't........Joe

 

I wouldn't worry about any one color appearing at the rims. If a coin was stored in an album, the toning should be at it's most advanced stage at the rims and at the least advanced stage in the centers. As long as you start at the center and see the proper color progression, repeating bands of yellow-magenta-cyan, you can make the determination that the toning is market acceptable. This Jefferson is a good example.

 

 

The buffalo in this thread is also another classic example of a target toned album coin. I for one find absolutely nothing about the toning that would make it questionable in the eyes of the TPG's.

 

[Buffalo Head]

This is an interesting point you make about the "blue" you speak of on the reverse . I have a friend that is a pro at this stuff and he has always told me to watch out for the toning on nickels that start with blue from the rim. He says it should "always" start with gold. Well, without going into length on this subject I'll say that's not always true, but most of the time it is. I have a couple of coins that start with blue and their graded. I think it all depends on how long the coin has been in a certain coin album. Buy back guarantees are hard to come by in my world, I go for what I know. If your not comfortable buying "raw" coins, don't........Joe

 

I wouldn't worry about any one color appearing at the rims. If a coin was stored in an album, the toning should be at it's most advanced stage at the rims and at the least advanced stage in the centers. As long as you start at the center and see the proper color progression, repeating bands of yellow-magenta-cyan, you can make the determination that the toning is market acceptable. This Jefferson is a good example.

 

 

The buffalo in this thread is also another classic example of a target toned album coin. I for one find absolutely nothing about the toning that would make it questionable in the eyes of the TPG's.

 

WOW!!! your Jefferson is just beautiful! (thumbs u