• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

JKK

Member: Seasoned Veteran
  • Posts

    3,803
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    52

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    JKK got a reaction from KarenHolcomb in 1910 Wheat penny (reverse)   
    When I blow bronze disease off a coin, I have to expect it to take six weeks. But I will get it off.
  2. Haha
    JKK got a reaction from Crawtomatic in What’s going on!   
    Coin is invisible. Doubt that this happened at the mint.
  3. Haha
    JKK reacted to Mohawk in 1925-S DDO?   
    I'm starting to think that I may need an intervention with this thing.  I'm so sorry to my coin family that my addiction has impacted you all negatively.  I take responsibility for my actions and I intend to seek help
  4. Haha
    JKK got a reaction from Mohawk in 1925-S DDO?   
    "Tom, we've gathered you here because we care about you. Your addiction to dissertation has negatively affected us in the following ways..."
  5. Haha
    JKK got a reaction from Mohawk in 1925-S DDO?   
    Vingt coups de pied au cul !
  6. Like
    JKK reacted to Greenstang in 1925-S DDO?   
    Would you please show a clear photo of the date and then I will tell you why I think it is not your DDO
  7. Like
    JKK got a reaction from Just Bob in 1978 d penny error   
    Even if they aren't worth anything, you learn more about coins and can better discern valuable errors from routine flubs, so it's worth your time.
  8. Like
    JKK got a reaction from Mohawk in Maroon Red 1964 penny. DIFFERENT   
    I've seen a lot of them. Sometimes bronze coins just tone up that color. If I had to guess, I'd suppose it was an environmental specificity (pocket of person with certain kind of skin chemistry, laid around awhile adjacent to some type of surface or air quality).
  9. Thanks
    JKK got a reaction from TON Collection in Maroon Red 1964 penny. DIFFERENT   
    I've seen a lot of them. Sometimes bronze coins just tone up that color. If I had to guess, I'd suppose it was an environmental specificity (pocket of person with certain kind of skin chemistry, laid around awhile adjacent to some type of surface or air quality).
  10. Like
    JKK got a reaction from Miguel del Rio in PERU 1996 20 Nuevos Soles   
    Indeed. I'd think the Policía Nacional would have absolutely zero sense of humor about importation of counterfeit Peruvian coins.
  11. Haha
    JKK got a reaction from Mohawk in Boo 👻 I’m back!! Doubled die hunt pay attention all!! Hey Mohawk missed ya buddy..🤮   
    Soon to be available in a video game, Hippo Muck Spread 2019, for the Wii Pu.
  12. Haha
    JKK got a reaction from Marquez-Collector in 1982 D Nickle (Copper)   
    It could also be crudulation, a highly technical term for "picked up some crud along the way."
  13. Haha
    JKK got a reaction from KarenHolcomb in 1982 D Nickle (Copper)   
    It could also be crudulation, a highly technical term for "picked up some crud along the way."
  14. Haha
  15. Haha
    JKK reacted to Greenstang in 1982 D Nickle (Copper)   
    Just learned a new word. Always learn something new on this forum and its experts.
  16. Like
    JKK got a reaction from Crawtomatic in 1969 s Doubled Die Penny?   
    I think we need to take some guidance from this and clean up our own act. Every new poster deserves benefit of the doubt even if posing a question that has resembled those of past pains in the *spoon*. Frankly, there was no good reason even to bring up the known troll here. All that does is have potential to make an honest new person feel uneasy, which is the last thing we should want.
    Every new ID needs a full, fair, and free chance to ask a question and handle the answers like a mature numismatist, with us shrugging aside the past irritants we have experienced. People should also remember that they aren't just talking to one person, no matter how it might seem. They're talking to every new member or potential new member who is scanning the threads to see if this is as bad a snake pit as many other forums. We've all seen those kind of places and this ought never to become one.
    John, I'm sorry there are some reflexes here that need a little bit of tuning downward. Please don't let it deter you. Welcome. You can learn a lot here.
  17. Like
    JKK got a reaction from Mokiechan in 1969 s Doubled Die Penny?   
    I think we need to take some guidance from this and clean up our own act. Every new poster deserves benefit of the doubt even if posing a question that has resembled those of past pains in the *spoon*. Frankly, there was no good reason even to bring up the known troll here. All that does is have potential to make an honest new person feel uneasy, which is the last thing we should want.
    Every new ID needs a full, fair, and free chance to ask a question and handle the answers like a mature numismatist, with us shrugging aside the past irritants we have experienced. People should also remember that they aren't just talking to one person, no matter how it might seem. They're talking to every new member or potential new member who is scanning the threads to see if this is as bad a snake pit as many other forums. We've all seen those kind of places and this ought never to become one.
    John, I'm sorry there are some reflexes here that need a little bit of tuning downward. Please don't let it deter you. Welcome. You can learn a lot here.
  18. Like
    JKK got a reaction from Mohawk in 1969 s Doubled Die Penny?   
    I think we need to take some guidance from this and clean up our own act. Every new poster deserves benefit of the doubt even if posing a question that has resembled those of past pains in the *spoon*. Frankly, there was no good reason even to bring up the known troll here. All that does is have potential to make an honest new person feel uneasy, which is the last thing we should want.
    Every new ID needs a full, fair, and free chance to ask a question and handle the answers like a mature numismatist, with us shrugging aside the past irritants we have experienced. People should also remember that they aren't just talking to one person, no matter how it might seem. They're talking to every new member or potential new member who is scanning the threads to see if this is as bad a snake pit as many other forums. We've all seen those kind of places and this ought never to become one.
    John, I'm sorry there are some reflexes here that need a little bit of tuning downward. Please don't let it deter you. Welcome. You can learn a lot here.
  19. Thanks
    JKK got a reaction from Thompson2 in Japanese coins (plus some random stuff) from under a tree   
    Those are their numeric identifiers in my copies of the Krause catalogs.
  20. Thanks
    JKK got a reaction from Thompson2 in Japanese coins (plus some random stuff) from under a tree   
    They're both Japanese. Neither is worth much, but they are interesting. Second is a C#8, I think, 4 mon, circa 1863-67. High book might be $2. First is (I think) mid-1700s, 1 mon, C#1.something, and most likely not worth a lot either. However, there are a few variants that are worth a bit more.
  21. Like
    JKK reacted to Mohawk in For the love of copper   
    Fausti says it's not easy being green......

    ....but man I think it's a good color on her!
  22. Thanks
    JKK got a reaction from TON Collection in COME ON GUYS HELP......SILVER 1976 BICENTENNIAL MAJORLY underweight 21.6 grams COME ON GUYS HELP ME HERE   
    In my FIL's collection I found five gold-plated 1976 Ikes. I think my MIL had bought them for him off a TV channel, innocently thinking this was a Great Thing. Don't know if that has bearing on this. (I couldn't stomach having them in my collection, so I distributed them among his grandkids (my nieces and nephs).)
  23. Like
    JKK got a reaction from bwolper in What you need to know about posting coins for inquiry   
    Thank you. I appreciate that it makes a difference. Regulars here are here because they love to help other collectors, especially those new to the hobby. Some of the guidance is not intuitive, such as weight and diameter; most newcomers would not know that, nor that they need in most cases full images of both sides. But you would think that it would at least occur to them, on their own, that it's impossible to answer a question that is not asked.
  24. Thanks
    JKK got a reaction from Catatonic1 in What you need to know about posting coins for inquiry   
    When you post a question about a coin or coins, it's worth remembering that the people giving you answers--unless it is specifically about an NGC policy matter or submission--are volunteer hobbyists who do this for fun. They are not speaking for NGC; they speak only for themselves, and they want to help people. When you do a good job of posting your inquiry, you increase your chances of helpful replies, because you show respect for the volunteers' time.
    Please do:
    Ask a question, or multiple questions. We need to know what to focus on. Authenticity? Grade? Identification? Value? All of these? Think about your questions. "What would this grade at NGC?" and "What grade would you give this coin?" are two very different questions. If you ask the first one, only people who know a lot about NGC's ways have much to offer you. "How much is this worth?" is another nebulous question. Better: "What would a dealer pay me for this?" Or: "What would a dealer sell this for?" Post clear photos of the entire obverse, reverse, and if necessary the edge. If need be, add zoomed photos of specific features, but always clear shots of both full sides. Post all pictures of a given coin in the same thread. Accept that if you have photographic limitations, and you keep posting badly photographed coins, you'll keep being told they're not good enough to use to answer your question. You can't expect everyone to read all your threads and know your circumstances, be they poverty or Parkinson's or can'tbebothereditis. It's not their fault your photos can't or won't get better, even if it is also not always your own fault. Use a thread title that describes the coin(s), so that people who know the subject matter are likelier to read the thread. If you just inherited Bampaw's silver dollar collection which you can see spans the period 1850-1921, you could title it "Evaluating silver dollar collection 1850-1921." People who know a lot about those silver dollars will see it and be likely to help you. "Grading advice" is bad; everyone wants grading advice. "Morgan dollar grading advice" is good. "Is this fake?" is bad. "Is this Chinese silver coin fake?" is good. Post only once per coin. (If you have received a huge collection, and you want to start with a picture of the whole hoard with zoomed shots of parts, that's no problem. This guideline is intended to keep people from slamming multiple fully photographed coins into a single thread, making it difficult to figure out which one the answers are talking about. So if it's a hoard, and you single out some for close scrutiny, go with new threads for each of those.) If the picture files are too large in terms of data, learn to make them smaller without losing necessary information. Paint.net is a free image editor for Windows. Open your pictures in it, crop them, and save them as .jpgs. Look at what sizes they are now. This is too easy. If there is any question of identification or authentication, include weight in grams and diameter in millimeters. If you don't know the metric system, use an online converter. Weight is one of the key diagnostics of authenticity and unless the coin is too obviously bogus to bother, you will be asked for it. Just include it with your first post. Tell us what you know, or what you believe to be the case, about the coin. It's okay to be incorrect. Understand that the term "melt" does not automatically mean someone plans to melt the coin down, nor is anyone suggesting you should. It refers simply to the value of the metal for its own sake. Do not freak out when someone says "melt" about Bampaw's Morgan dollars. We really do not want or expect you to throw it in a blast furnace, all right? Use punctuation. Being easy to read works to your benefit. When you write a twelve-line paragraph with no periods or commas, people tune you out. For those who need reminders, this , is a comma. You use it to separate phrases, more or less. This . is a period. You use it to end most sentences. Hitting Enter will insert a paragraph break. You use this between series of thoughts. Live them. Love them. Use them. because ill tell u what really suxors is when some1 posts sententses like this 1 4 about half a page its impossibel 2 read and some people including me will prob not finish readin it which means u arent gettin as many respontses think about it ur only hurtin ur own cozz notice how stooped this reads ur in affect makin urself ten times harder 2 help and frankly its disrespectfull 2 assume entellegent people should do all that extra work 4 ur sake now kinely clean up ur act and rite like u at least got thru 6ixth grade im glad we had this little talk Come prepared to accept responsive answers. Brace yourself to learn that Bampaw or Opa, always considered the family's Great Numismatist, may not have been so great at this. No one seeks to offend your relative's legacy, but the coin must be called what it is. Be patient. No one who doesn't know the answer is going to post "I don't know." It can take days to a week for someone to notice. Remember that some inquiries may require research, for which volunteers are not being paid, and are doing as they have time. Expect that opinions may vary, even among experienced numismatists. Realize that if you're rude and/or difficult, your problem is not the people who take time to fight with you. Your problem is the people who, without a word, mark you down as someone not to bother with in the future--because you have no idea who or how many they are, and thus have no power to alleviate that diagnosis. Kindly do not:
    Just post pictures without giving any indication of what you want to learn. Post glare-obscured, blurry, or otherwise poor photos. Post only partial pictures of errors or damage. Complain that your pics are too big to post. Use an image editor to crop and save them as .jpgs. Get defensive when told your pics are not good. Maybe you're bad at photography; maybe you don't have a good camera; maybe the photography gods just don't like you. If you can do better, do so. If you cannot do better, than just accept that this limits how much we can help you. Post a new thread for every photo of the same coin. Post new threads in the same forum, or other forums, with reference to the same coin. Once suffices. The shotgun approach makes one look impatient and immature. Use a meaningless thread title like "looking for advice" or "no idea what 2 do" or "plz help." Those tell people nothing about the discussion except that it was begun by someone who picks meaningless thread titles. Omit weight and diameter, unless they are completely irrelevant to your question. Get annoyed if you don't like the answers. If you disagree with them, fine; act on your views. Ask us to tell you how we know it's a counterfeit. While that's a legit question on its face, the problem is that even if you didn't mint the fake, those who make them are always looking for ways to improve. We frown upon supplying helpful feedback to criminals, and so should you. So no, don't ask us that. And if we tell you politely that we aren't going into detail, don't get annoyed because you don't like that answer. Grouse about not getting any replies. No one knows everything; no one has unlimited time; sometimes no one knows the answer. Come in telling how many Youtube videos you have watched about coins. This will lower your credibility. Use Photobucket links. If you do, don't anticipate that people will use them. Photobucket has been connected with numerous malware and virus infections. Spell 'nickel' as 'nickle.' Whether referring to the element or the five-cent coin, this misspelling is a very bad look. If you take the time to do this correctly, you can learn a lot more here than if you skip important steps.
    If you do not take the time to do this correctly, some posters may decide that their time is better spent helping other people.
    Lastly, here is a Cliff's Notes version that would take care of 95% of the most common disappointed inquiries. If you want to post yours anyway, fine, but just please kindly do not engage in a protracted and dullard debate when you are told that:
    Your 1804 silver dollar is a bad counterfeit. Look up authentic examples and compare closely. Your 1776 Continental dollar is a bad counterfeit or a souvenir replica. Many were churned out. What you think is a double die is almost surely mechanical doubling, which carries no premium. What you think is a mint error is likely post-mint damage, and your coin is worth face value. Your "silver" non-1943 penny is plated, replated, has had the plating come off, is altered, or somesuch. Your "bronze" 1943 penny is altered somehow, and is worth very little. Your Greek "silver" coin with flanges sticking out of its edges is a bad cast counterfeit. Your cheesy-looking brass token is not gold, and is not a coin. Any clown can mint brass tokens with bad designs. Cleaning your coins is a stupid idea. Yes, even for you. You, too. If you ask how, listen to the people who tell you not to do so. If you cite Etsy as an authority, people will laugh their heads off with good reason. This is horrible for your cred. If you cite a Youtube video as an authority, people will laugh with good reason. This is bad for your cred. If you have more than three supposed error coins you found in change, and plan to post them all, the odds are overwhelming that none of them are mint errors worthy of note. If you keep posting these without seeming to learn, people might conclude that learning is not your thing. There, that rounds up the usual suspects. I'm not saying those answers are automatically always right. However, as the strongest probabilities, they should be presumed correct unless they can be proven wrong. If you have one child and something is broken in the house, not by you or your spouse, typically the child did it. If you can prove the kid innocent, fair enough; but you know the kid almost surely did it. If you argue about a "double die" at fatuous length when it's clear you don't know what one really is, you will look like the kid with soot all over him insisting he didn't really dig around in the fireplace.
    Don't be that kid.
    ===
    Opinions, comments, additions, suggestions?
  25. Like
    JKK got a reaction from Mohawk in What you need to know about posting coins for inquiry   
    Yeah, the multiple posts are very bad manners. They give an air of a spoiled child whining at the lack of instant gratification. If someone doesn't hear for about a week, mostly they should assume: a) no one knows the answer, b) no one is interested in the question, or c) they have somehow managed to get all the regulars to say "I don't feel like doing this."
    The latter is probably something we aren't supposed to admit to. Maybe I'm the only one who experiences it.
    In any case, if a week passes and someone has no answers, I don't think it's unreasonable to bump the thread with a second post. Of course, if that post is whiny or testy or entitled, it will probably get the sort of reply it merits.