JKK

www.numista.com

Looks Ottoman, AH 1293, can't read regnal year, 1 kurush, Kustantiniya (Constantinople) mint. Photos too distant to say more, plus need diameter and weight (also the bottom one is upside down). If you want to know more about it, better information will help.

It looks like C#140c.1 or C#140c.4. If you seek those out and your coin doesn't seem to match them, then maybe I'm wrong about some aspect. It is also possible that there were numbers between these that used to be in Krause (or whatever the C# pre-Krause was). Don't know for sure. If you think I made a mistake, I'd love to know what your source is.
With alphabets, much is orientation. Your coin's reverse is rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise. I'm not fluent in Arabic, but what's on your coin is the Arabic abjad (alphabet).
AH 1263 was about 1846-47 CE. I don't claim to be an expert on Mongol history. If you decide to research it, maybe you'll turn up some reason why Mongols should in some way, any way, be associated with this coin. If so, please let me know where you found it, as it would absolutely fascinate me.

AH 1263 was roughly 1846 CE, just in case there's anyone participating here who did not realize it.

The weight is correct for a Moroccan 4th Standard dirham of the Moulay Abd'al-Rahman period. Fez Hazrat and Marrakesh are possible mints. I see the zarb/zuriba on the mint side, and the legible writing below it is consistent with coins attributed to Marrakesh. I can't speak to its authenticity, but rest assured there is minimal Greek influence and zero Mongolian. There is no good reason to believe that the given date, AH 1263, is a counterstamp.

Wow people! Thanks I see the same old people as when I was a troll ext. How I have no clue about coins and and know nothing about doubled die coins !! WELL ALL THAT DISRESPECTFUL NONSENSE BROUGHT ME THE 2ND HIGHEST GRADED 1969S Doubled die obverse fs101 Soo you might wanna re evaluate what your saying and to whom!!! 🙄🖕And a big thanks too all the people that did comment as trying to help out without all the disrespectful comments.

And you actually think that anyone on this forum will believe this garbage, after all the lies that you have told on here?
You have lied multiple times about sending coins in for grading and having them attributed by NGC, even going so far as to steal a picture of someone else's coin off the web, and post it as your coin. You have tried to sell your coins on Ebay and other places, claiming that they were varieties or matte proof coins, when they were not. Worst of all, in my opinion, you tried to sell counterfeit coins on this forum. I have told you several times before, and I will repeat it again: no one will ever believe anything you say on this forum! I don't care if you produce a video of Mark Salzberg personally handing you the recently graded coin, it will surely be something that you faked.
And as far as being disrespectful, you must first show yourself worthy of respect. You have not done that. The only thing you deserve is disdain.

This is at least the third alias, if memory serves. Time for everyone to waste some more time under the bridge.

This is at least the third alias, if memory serves. Time for everyone to waste some more time under the bridge.

This is at least the third alias, if memory serves. Time for everyone to waste some more time under the bridge.

What do you think this is going to price for at up coming auction. 

Kinda off subject there aren't we? I am not asking if this specimen is real/and or fake. I was curious of what something to this nature would price realize In auction! Thanks

You changed your name again, I see.
 

It irritates me to no end when photographers ask Olympic gold medalists to pretend to bite their newly won medals.

I bought this. https://smile.amazon.com/American-Weigh-AWS-100-Digital-Resolution/dp/B0012LOQUQ/ Uses AAAs. Might also want to spring for a calibration weight.

This is not an appropriate place to seek computer technical support or education. I suggest you seek that help from a service that does this professionally. They can connect remotely to your computer and tell you what you are doing wrong or misunderstanding.

What does it weigh?

We can really evaluate that with great ease since you went to the trouble of posting the reverse as well.

Oh, wait. Never mind. My mistake.

Interesting. You are the first person new to the board I have yet seen who has 1178 posts and joined nearly seven years ago.

I have one like this.

Interesting. You are the first person new to the board I have yet seen who has 1178 posts and joined nearly seven years ago.

Interesting. You are the first person new to the board I have yet seen who has 1178 posts and joined nearly seven years ago.

We can really evaluate that with great ease since you went to the trouble of posting the reverse as well.

Oh, wait. Never mind. My mistake.

It's tarnish, so it depends on the type of tarnish and how much detail is left. If the coin were actually uncirculated (it happens), tarnish would keep it to one of the lower MS grades. However, if the coin is heavily worn, this sort of tarnish probably isn't a major detractor because the wear is the greater problem. I think that would change if the tarnish rose to the level of serious environmental damage, such as with bronze disease, but when Cu/Ni goes dark this way it's just one of the natural toning paths rather than serious surface erosion.
It can also happen to silver. The coin that set me off on collecting was a worn, completely black Barber dime I found outside my grandparents' ranch house in Kansas. Worn, yes, but not damaged. Of course, there is copper in most minted silver coinage, so the tarnish there is surely a mix of the two. When gold coins tone up, the copper in them can turn to a very interesting series of orange/red touches. My Spanish doubloon has these, very pretty. In gold, I don't think you get much tarnish unless there's another metal mixed in.
As a side note, please stay safe over there, insha'Allah. I know this thing has hit your country hard.

Be alert for any unprotected loose coins. You would be amazed at how many of our elders, who seemed like mega-numismatists (such as my father-in-law, for example), had loose uncirculated and proof pieces just stuck in plastic sandwich bags or something equally awful. Don't assume that just because it's loose that it's not worth anything, nor that you can safely coat it with skin oil from touches. Could do yourself a real favor by getting an inexpensive pair of plastic coin tongs to handle those that look nice.
Yeah, you can handle them by the edges, and the results won't show up right now, but look at any of the posts on here where someone thinks they're being Very Smart by holding them that way. There is almost no way to keep skin, and thus skin oil, from mooshing around the rim onto the edge of the surface. To you, it'll look like you did no harm. To your heirs, they will be posting on whatever then passes for a numismatic forum, asking how could someone have possibly screwed this coin up this way when they were the World's Greatest Numismatist. Our successors in this future forum will have the fun of telling your heirs that you or someone before you mishandled them. Don't do that to them and us.