Mike Meenderink

A graded and certified coin will usually bring a premium over gold spot price. The fact that it is certified, graded (usually PF69-PF70) and protected in a holder lends to a higher sale price. If the coin was not graded, then it just for no reason other than market demand sold for a premium over spot. I would have it authenticated at a jewelry shop or local coin shop before you count your chickens. Original packaging or not it could easily still be a complete fake. Gold plated copies of this coin are everywhere. They originate in China and have been made there for many, many years. Even current modern silver and gold coins are counterfeited by the thousands daily in China and sold off to unscrupulous coin sellers. Be aware. Be sure and have it weighed, XRF tested and examined by a knowledgeable person. The coin if real is valuable but...that's why they are often faked....Good luck...let us know what happens on this thread in the future if you find out anything. Cheers

If it is real it's worth $2,336.30 (5/1/2024) spot gold price in pure gold value. Possibly slightly more if in excellent condition and graded and encapsulated with a higher-than-average grade. Thanks Grandma!

Absolutely not. Your coins details and strike are not even close to the Chapman proof. No way.

IMO it's a counterfeit coin. Compare areas highlighted below. Beyond the color it has strange weak and missing details when it shouldn't.

Would it be possible to add a button for viewers of competitive and custom registry sets to click if they appreciate the collectors content? This feature could function much like the chat "like" or heart emoji except only a "like" option or positive reactions options would exist. This functionality would further serve to engage collectors as well as provide positive reinforcement that serves to inspire collectors to continue their endeavors. The number of "likes" could also serve as a data point based "Peoples Choice Awards" each year with the other NGC Registry Awards. Yes? No? Why? Why not?

No. This is just a post mint damaged coin. If you send/take it to the Fed Reserve bank they will replace it for you with a new quarter. Or you could just spend it.

Doubled Dies vs. Machine Doubling Posted on 1/10/2017 The distinction between genuine die doubling and mechanical doubling can be subtle, but they can easily be differentiated with just a loupe and a bit of knowledge. One of the more common questions that NGC Customer Service receives is regarding the difference between a doubled die and machine doubling. This distinction is very important, because a doubled die variety may be worth a large premium, while machine doubling is a mere novelty and does not usually add value. Double dies A true doubled die is a variety in that it is created during the die making process. As a result, the doubling will appear on every coin struck from that die. In the past, doubled die errors were often much more dramatic due to the process in which dies were created. This method often required multiple impressions from a working hub to impart the detail into a die. If the hub or die shifted at all during this process, the finished die would feature two distinct impressions with separation between them. The design, letters and digits will be doubled. 1955 Doubled Die Obverse Lincoln Cent Click images to enlarge. One of the most famous doubled die coins is, of course, the 1955 Lincoln Cent with a doubled die obverse. It is extremely rare that such dramatic doubling would slip through unnoticed at the US Mint. At the time, the Philadelphia Mint was running two 12-hour shifts in order to help alleviate a cent shortage. At least seven people were supposed to have inspected the die before it was put into use, but that clearly was not the case here. Instead, the die was placed in service for a midnight to 8:00 am shift. The problem was not discovered until some 20,000-24,000 cents had already been mixed in with the millions of other cents struck that night. The Chief Coiner of the Philadelphia Mint, Sydney C. Engel, decided to let the coins through instead of melting a total of approximately 10 million cents to contain them. Those 1955 Doubled Die Obverse Lincoln cents are now one of the most sought-after varieties in coin collecting. Mechanical doubling On the other hand, there is mechanical doubling. This type of doubling, which is also known as strike, ejection, shelf or shift doubling, is not the result of the design on the die being doubled. Rather, this type of doubling occurs when the die strikes a planchet. If the die is not properly seated, it can move slightly or bounce during the moment of striking, creating a flat, shelf-like doubling. This effect will be different on all coins struck, so it is technically not a variety, but rather more of a striking error. Example of machine or strike doubling Click images to enlarge. Above is an example of machine or strike doubling. Notice how the doubling is very flat in appearance and there are serifs in the letters that are not separated. Example of a genuine doubled die coin Click images to enlarge. Above is another example of a genuine doubled die coin (the 1972 Doubled Die Obverse Lincoln Cent). Notice how there is a clear separation between the serifs on all the letters. This proves that the doubling was created during the hubbing process rather than during the striking of the actual coin. Sometimes however, both types of doubling can be seen on the same coin, such as on the coin below. 1951 Romania 2 Lei with a doubled die and also mechanical doubling Click images to enlarge. 1951 Romania 2 Lei where the doubled die has been shaded blue and the mechanical doubling has been shaded red Click images to enlarge. The above coin is a 1951 Romania 2 Lei. There is very pronounced doubling on all the numerals in the date. However, this coin also has mechanical doubling! In the second photo, the doubled die has been shaded blue, whereas the mechanical doubling is red. As you can see, the die doubling looks exactly like the primary numeral only shifted to the west. There is clear separation between the two, including split serifs. On the other hand, the red-shaded strike doubling is much flatter in appearance, and there is no separation between it and the main number. Hunting for varieties can be a very fun and rewarding endeavor, but it is important to know what is truly a variety. Hopefully this article can help you to discern the difference between doubled die coins and coins with mechanical doubling. Sources: Lange, David W. The Complete Guide to Lincoln Cents. Zyrus Press, 2005. Articles List

NO They are just little play money tokens.

1917 Standing Liberty T-1 25c grades F15 eBay $19.50 w /tax & free shipping value $80-$100 graded. Another one please....I've been on a raw roll lately....Love this coin's antique look. Typeset bound.......

While damaged the mint escaped relatively unscathed. The surrounding area in the immediate area of the mint was completely destroyed by fire. The photos below are originals taken 2 days after the fires were extinguished. Many people died in this horrific disaster. The fires reached temperatures hot enough to melt steel and vitrify stone. It spread so quickly many had no chance of surviving and died in their homes in terror. On April 18, 1906, at 5:13 a.m., an earthquake estimated at close to 8.0 on the Richter scale strikes San Francisco, California, killing an estimated 3,000 people as it topples numerous buildings. The quake was caused by a slip of the San Andreas Fault over a segment about 275 miles long, and shock waves could be felt from southern Oregon down to Los Angeles. San Francisco’s brick buildings and wooden Victorian structures were especially devastated. Fires immediately broke out and–because broken water mains prevented firefighters from stopping them–firestorms soon developed citywide. At 7 a.m., U.S. Army troops from Fort Mason reported to the Hall of Justice, and San Francisco Mayor E.E. Schmitz called for the enforcement of a dusk-to-dawn curfew and authorized soldiers to shoot to kill anyone found looting. Meanwhile, in the face of significant aftershocks, firefighters and U.S. troops fought desperately to control the ongoing fire, often dynamiting whole city blocks to create firewalls. On April 20, several thousands of refugees trapped by the massive fire were evacuated from the foot of Van Ness Avenue. The army would eventually house 20,000 refugees in more than 20 military-style tent camps across the city. By April 23, most fires were extinguished, and authorities commenced the task of rebuilding the devastated metropolis. It was estimated that some 3,000 people died as a result of the Great San Francisco Earthquake and the devastating fires it inflicted upon the city. Almost 30,000 buildings were destroyed, including most of the city’s homes and nearly all the central business district.

Level One Completed. You now have learned to not buy anything for real money that you have no idea what it is. A common beginner mistake. We all did it, everyone does in the very beginning... until they clam down, go broke or give in and decide to learn before they leap. Coins are not about making a quick buck...this rarely happens even for the savviest experienced collector. If something seems too good to be true it usually is. Coin collecting is full of subtle nuances, detailed information sourcing, grading skills, historical knowledge, mint process and practice knowledge, key date, variety coin knowledge and error coins ...etc etc.. the list goes on and on. Take the time to get a few books on basic coin collecting and the coin minting process. This knowledge will better position you for future coin collecting or purchases. Welcome to the hobby. You are no longer a newbie you've taken one in the shorts...you're in the club now get smart enough to never let it happen again. Cheers.

In that condition your 1941 P 1/4 Gulden is worth about $5.00 maybe $7.00 to the right buyer. The melt value is around $2.05. This was one of the highest mintage Guldens of the 37- 45s with a 32M+ total mintage and is VERY common in higher grades. Nice coin to find in a cent roll. I'm Dutch so I should know lol. Cheers!

whatever

No the coin when final graded will not have" conserved "on the label. If the coin qualifies for conservation it will be conserved and then sent to NGC grading. If the coin qualifies for grading it will be graded and encapsulated as the graders see fit.

Hello sweetheart! Finally, an actual find! As the others have stated it is a DDO FS-101 and a groovy one at that! The shift is strong giving it the true psychedelic effect. Seeing that Lincoln cent errors are all the rage currently among many collectors my advice would be is to have it authenticated, graded and encapsulated. The others are correct that it will receive a details grade but having the clear, impressive DDO far outshines the scrape. The coin IMO is worth at least $200 graded AU Details (several have sold at auction in DETAILS), a bit more if it was not damaged and a whole bunch more if it was MS with no scratch. Good find. Cheers!

During the plating process there are/were several contaminants present in the plating solution. Even low concentrations of hexavalent chromium, which can be dragged into the bath on the racks, will produce dull and spotty deposits. Chromium can be reduced quickly to its trivalent form and precipitated by the addition of proprietary reducing agents directly to the plating bath. Hexavalent chromium also can be converted to the inactive trivalent state by means of high-current-density electrolysis or by adding sodium hydrosulfite or sodium stannite. There is disputed evidence that trivalent chromium left in the plating bath can be re-oxidized by air back to hexavalent chromium. The best procedure is to precipitate the chromium and remove it by filtering. Zinc contaminants will plate out simultaneously with the copper, causing brittle and brassy looking deposits. Zinc can be removed by dummying the bath at 0.2–0.4 A/dm2. Dummying also removes many other metallic contaminants. Sulfur and its compounds cause dull, red deposits in low-current-density areas. These usually appear in deposits from new baths as a result of the use of impure cyanides or leaching out contaminants from tank linings, racks and anode bags. This is why some zinc copper plated cents have a different tone or color to them. Cheers

Your 1808 1/2 cent is really nice. I just picked this one up for my dad for his US 7070 circulated type set. Your is much nicer .....I only paid $45 for the 1805 1/2 C below. He likes coins with character.

I have found a mule. Here is my extraordinary evidence.

With hopes and dreams dashed upon the rocks of knowledge the character slowly walks away, head down but not broken, into the abyss of further introspection and instruction..... END SCENE

It looks like a shattered die or die deterioration strike. Not particularly rare but some collectors like these coins. Technically its an error. Really its just a quality control issue. It may be classified as a basic mint error coin if determined to be a shattered die strike. Cheers.

That is a urine stained quarter you didn't touch it did you?

I will take things I should have never read for $2000 Alex....

For the record the photo on the left is me. Yes I'm a cat and I know more about coins than you do.

Ebay $12.00 w/tax free ship 3 am snipe. 1881 Nickel 3 c XF 40 Value $55.00 graded. Hehehehehee

Hello and welcome to the forum. Your coin does not appear to be a doubled die coin. The coin does however exhibit a struck through grease error. This is a common error and not a particularly valuable error. Although some collectors do chase these coins they are not worth very much. The wavy appearance on the coin with all the lumps and bumps tell me this coin was struck though a heavy layer of grease. Cheers