EagleRJO

I agree, and might even go a little higher to around $300 to $400. When you compare what you can sell a raw coin for versus the slabbed coin, less about $80 to $100 all-in for grading, anything less if often a net loss. However, there are sometimes other considerations for wanting a coin graded, like doing it for a Registry Set.

The one on the left (in both pics) looks like a replica/token of a Greek coin you can get on sites like AliExpress, but I would not trust anything for sale on that site. The one on the right (in both pics) may be a replica/token of a German shekel, which I think is called a "Shekel Token" or "False Shekel" ... https://cccrh.files.wordpress.com/2018/06/false-shekels.pdf

Let me guess ... it probably was bid on eBay. I gave up bidding/buying there for the time being as almost all on the coins for auction/sale had ridiculously high reserves or asking prices with totally stale listings, or were total garbage with some counterfeits. I switched to bidding coins on Great Collections mostly, and some on Heritage Auctions.

Agreed it's not an MS66 (example attached from PCGS CoinFacts). In addition to the hair on the obverse, it also looks like significant wear of the eagle's feathers on the reverse. I'm not sure where the MS66 came from, but that seems way off. Looks maybe more like in the F to VF grade range with that amount of wear, but I'm not that familiar with the series. See this link for more info on grades ... [https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1923-d-1/images/7361]

That looks like a common 1996 1-ounce silver eagle bullion coin that's not in great shape, but the pics are not very good and blurry. If you are taking pics with your phone try stacking up some books to rest your hand on. Also, it's not worth submitting for grading if that's what you were thinking from your other posts, since you would actually lose money doing that (grading cost > coin value), unless there is a specific reason to do that like for a NGC Registry Set. https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/united-states/american-eagles-and-bullion-coins/silver-eagles-1986-date/710022/1996-eagle-s1-ms/?des=ms https://www.apmex.com/product/1066/1996-1-oz-american-silver-eagle-bu

I think you forgot you'ens!

Here is another gold half eagle I am considering which appears to be in the low MS range, but about $100 more than the one posted previously. I don't get hung up on just having MS coins, and actually prefer many in an XF or AU grade range if very clean for that grade. I think it would be a nice "investment".

Just curious why you are submitting the coin for grading. And this link may help on the submission tier ... https://www.ngccoin.com/submit/services-fees/ngc/ Btw, welcome to the forum!

I can't remember which coin I once saw that would have been awesome in the collection it they would not have dipped it in acid. They had no idea what they had done to a coin which would have been a pretty valuable one before being dipped. Enough to make a "coin whisperer" want to cry hearing the agony the coin was in. https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/8146/ And talking about coin whisperers I don't recall @DWLangeposting anything recently.

I know it hard to tell much with gold coins from just pics so I am okay with some "guess the grade" opinions with appropriate qualifiers, which are part speculation anyway with just pics and not having the coin in-hand, or possibly just commenting on the range I was thinking they were.

What would be the question, and the pics are pretty blurry to tell much? https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1917-d-25c-type-1/5708 Also try cropping the pics which is helpful to see the coin and if it's properly in focus a little better [before posting].

Maybe Mark Sinclair aka Vin Diesel drifting around a few sharp turns and then spinning out perfectly into a parking spot in front of Bob's Coin & Stamp shop. Vin strides into the shop ... then cut to him coming out quickly holding up a slab which when zoomed in on is a fancy-pants-new-and-improved NGC "X" style 10.0 slabbed $20 bullion coin he bought for $120 with the price sticker still proudly displayed on the slab. Then cut to him drifting away around a few more tight turns. Is that what they think coin collecting is all about for the "Gen-X" people, who really should be collecting coins not labels.

Thanks QA, I really didn't need that visualization for the next time I get the gloves out to look at some coins.

I seem to end up touching the coin surfaces, and even with clean hands you have oils on your hands which can get on a coin and impair it over time. Unless I intend to give it an acetone bath before storing it to remove things like fingerprints, then I don't bother with the cotton gloves but still try to just handle it by the edges.

Maybe for them, but not for me.

I hear ya about the gloves, which is why I still try to just handle them by the edges even with the cotton ones, and I work over a rubber sorting mat because it's only a matter of when not if you will eventually drop a coin.

Prolly close to melt to a dealer.

I disagree. Of course they are collectible, you just have to realize exactly what they are and not waste your money putting them in slabs.

@Hoghead515Interesting use. Gotta save those condoms. @ldhairThanks. I think I would rather just be a little more careful with the cotton gloves so the dirt ends up on them instead of other coins, and regularly toss them [the gloves, not the coins ].

Just curious if anyone uses the latex finger gloves like the attached when handling coins, which I have heard some prefer for other than handling coins by the edges. I really dislike the full hand latex/nitrile gloves and the cotton ones I use can be a little slippery.

Those are not too bad, but a little blurry (maybe try stacked books?). It doesn't look like any significant wear, but there are a number of bag marks particularly on the face and neck area which is a no-go for higher grade Morgans. It looks like it's probably a high AU to low MS grade depending on if the slightly darker areas at the high points (e.g. area around the cheek and on the eagles breast) are rub marks or possibly frosty areas which don't photograph well, and you would need to look at with the coin in-hand. With pics it's better to crop them around the coin, and I prefer placing them side -by-side like the attached, both of which are simple to do. Also, a great place to go for coin grades is PCGS CoinFacts (e.g. https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1921-1-morgan/images/7296 for that coin) which you can use to compare the coin in-hand to the pics which is a better method when you are not familiar with a particular series.

If you are going to use your phone make sure to stack up some books or something to rest your hand on which often makes a big difference when zooming in.

Interesting and appropriate way to put it that really sticks in your mind with that look.

Welcome. I agree that you would need to post good cropped pics to get an idea of grade, but in 1921 there were comparatively many Morgans produced (20M to 40M per mint) and they are notorious for not having a good strike. Unless it's a unicorn very rare high mint state or proof grade (perfect, with great luster and virtually no marks, and nothing in focus areas), even a gem condition 1921 Morgan will only be worth about $50 to $100 due to these factors. And with just some wear that drops like a rock to melt value. Also, there is really no added value for various varieties that year, so I wouldn't really worry about that too much. But you can check out various varieties at VamWorld which is a great site for Morgans. Also, if you know the rough grade, maybe from posting some good pics to help with that, you can go to the NGC Price Guide for those coins here ... https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/united-states/dollars/49/

And there have even been Chinese counterfeits of the GSA Morgans ... https://www.coinworld.com/news/us-coins/counterfeit-1881-cc-dollar-appears-in-fabrica.html