EagleRJO

I agree a lot of the Morgans, particularly the CC marks, are over hyped, which I encountered assembling a complete 105 coin circulated Morgan set. Particularly the 1893-S which I agree would be the "king" or "key date" among the circulated Morgans, and that one is really a thorn in my side for the set with a target XF or better which I might just end up skipping. Even finding reasonably priced Morgans in VF or XF grades for some of them, like a few Carson City issues including the 1889-CC, turned out to be a task that will take a while. Also agreed that with mintage numbers there are always exceptions, but still used as an indicator as it's really not known what was melted and what is still out there in hoards to be discovered. Every once in a while a big stash of Morgans is discovered, like the more recent NY Bank and Great Southern hoards. And look at what happened with the 1903-O Morgans, that had a higher mintage but very low availability or estimated number of "survivors", which was formally the "king" until a stash of them was discovered. Imagine if you dropped a boatload of cash on one before the discovery, and them BAM you just have a somewhat better than average value Morgan at a monumental loss. So if I were looking for just one Carson City Morgan I would still stick with like an 1881-CC or 1885-CC due to the low mintage but more reasonable price due to the relative better availability in mint state grades.

I don't pay much attention to survival estimates as I think they are just wild guesses, and you never know what people are holding. There have been Morgans thought to be very rare until bags of them were found, like the 1903-O which was the "King of Morgans" right up a hoard was found. But there are many more higher grade 1885-CC Morgans certified by TPG's, and the 1889-CC Morgans were not part of the GSA sales in the 1970's. That may just mean there are bags of them lying around somewhere, like the more recent NY Bank Hoard discovered in 2018 or the Great Southern Hoard discovered in 2020. The "King of Morgans" is the 1895 Proof $1 with only 880 struck, which would cost about the equivalent of a small house for an uncirculated one. I have heard the 1889-CC referred to as the "King of CC Morgans", due to how few higher grade ones have been found. But I wouldn't get too hung up on what people call certain coins as that can change. I collect what I find appealing, not what something is called or what is on a paper tag.

Good thing I previously stocked up.

Unless you are doing a complete set of Morgans, if you want a fairly rare Carson City Morgan at a more reasonable price try looking into an 1885-CC Morgan, like the attached PCGS MS63 for about $1k I saw for sale. The mintage for the 1885-CC Morgans at 228,000 is actually lower than the 1889-CC mintage of 350,000 per the Red Book. It's just that the high MS 1885-CC coins do not go for ridiculous prices, unlike the high MS 1889-CC coins at 6 figures which I think drags up the prices for the lower 1889-CC grades.

Can't you still legally buy existing stock of the 75W/100W incandescent bulbs?

@VKurtB I think you can still buy 100W incandescent "rough service" bulbs for when my existing stock runs out, but they are super expensive. And I think it was @J P M that pointed out most lamps are not rated for 100W incandescent, so I guess that also makes us fire bugs. 🔥

I didn't say incandescent, for which existing stock is likely out by now, but we both know which is better for coins.

Pic of mark gets blurry when you zoom in. Use the attached to tell the difference, but it does look more like a 1979 50C Type-2 Clear "S".

Yes I meant billion

Small die cracks or breaks like that are very common and a minor error that's not worth submitting as it's not worth at least a few hundred and not significant enough for the TPG's to even attribute as an error ... NGC Article on Mint Errors If you are interested in error coins, like those with die cracks, you can find more information on error-ref.com.

It's about 11 [billion] 1982 (P) and about 6 [billion] 1982-D from the Red Book, so thats [over 16 billion, or almost 20 billion in round numbers] total for that year of all varieties if you are looking by date. Then you have to look for the D mark [which narrows it down to 6 billion], then look at small or large date, and then weight. A lot of coins to weed through for what I consider a wild goose chase.

Omg, there is a thing called google translate if English is not a language you can write, and this is the wrong site to try and post rip off coins at ridiculous prices as people actually know what they are looking at. And I think he meant $1.00 but in some countries they use a comma instead of a decimal like $1,00 for a dollar, so I think he misplaced the decimal.

Agreed, you can see more examples of coins besides the Variety Plus ones certified as being genuine in various grades to compare to the coin in-hand by clicking on the "View More Images" in blue just below the first coin shown at the following CoinFacts webpage ... https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1835-h10c-large-date-5c/4282

Apparently the op is wasting time using a scope and looking for a rainbow colored unicorn 1982-D copper small date after likely having watched some uninformed TY person. To each his own on how you spend free time. You would have better odds playing the mega lottery as only 2 of those have been found of about [16 billion total struck that year, so the odds are about 1 in 8 billion]. And I understand the 2 found were not from general circulation. Also, you typically only have to look at the "2" to see if it's a large date like the one the op posted per the attached.

It doesn't look like the op is flipping the coin over exactly 180 degrees vertically to take the pictures, as the first set would then indicate about a 45 degree die rotation while the second set would indicate about a 20 degree die rotation.

Try resting your arm on something, like a stack of books, with the phone about 4 to 6 inches away from the coin. You also need good lighting like a swing arm lamp with a 100W bulb at an angle to the coin.

Yea, nice find. One you can put in a mylar fip and add to a "minor errors and varieties" box. These coins are tiny. The smallest coin I ever had was a 1/10 oz gold eagle with a diameter of 16.5 mm and thickness of 1.2 mm. You almost needed a mag glass just to make out details. By comparison a dime is 17.9 mm in diameter and 1.4 mm thick. Trimes at 14.0 mm in diameter and 0.75 mm thick are even smaller and thinner, and partly why people started calling them "fish scales". I think It was the smallest non-gold coin ever struck my the mint.

Focus on the "2" initially. That's usually all I need to tell the difference.

Yea, it's usually noted on the label, but I agree it doesn't add any value.

Those are the same marks I looked at above which isn't a match. The marks would need to be in the same general area as shown on the overlay, or rotated slightly. The wheat stalks are closer to the rim, and it doesn't look like them anyway.

And caused people to forget how to spell.

As indicated it looks like just damage and not a die clash. See the attached clash overlay for a 1947 Lincoln cent from Mad Die Clashes and side-by-side comparison showing it's likely not a die clash. Probably closer to $100 including shipping to NGC (maybe like $20), $10 handling fee, $23 Tier fee, $18 Error fee, and $28 return shipping for just that coin. Either way, I agree that even if it was a die clash, which it doesn't appear to be, that wouldn't be worth submitting.

You are correct that the 2015 (P) Silver Eagle (Philadelphia mint) bullion coins are worth a few hundred dollars for a high MS grade, and possibly quite a lot more for an MS70 ... https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/2015-p-1-silver-eagle-total-mintage-79-640-coins/624711/70 The only way to get the Philadelphia mint designation on the slab label is if coins are submitted to a TPG in sealed mint containers designating that. Otherwise your out of luck as none of the bullion coins have mint marks. ... https://www.coinworld.com/news/precious-metals/no-philadelphia-mint-labels-for-certified-2015-silver-eagles.html And the 1921 Morgans are poorly struck mass produced coins that have a bad reputation and are not worth very much. [Instead of a few million struck, it was around 20 to 40 million at each mint in 1921 with high speed striking]

By "high retail" do you mean the PCGS guide prices, which are almost always greater than the NGC guide prices - sometime by a significant amount. I have been bidding at around 75% to 85% of the NGC guide prices, tempered with recent auction sales, to plug holes in my complete Morgan collection for the last 6 months or so. Pretty slow going, but I have hit about half of the dozen or so more expensive ones I was missing, and I think I will end up skipping one. Good rule, as it seems being patient on the ones I am going after as we have discussed in the past is paying off in the long run. I lost count on the number of coins I have passed on or under bid.

If you look at the NGC certification for that it's a "UNC Details - Mint Error" coin which certifies that it has a stuck-through error, which is pretty common. https://www.ngccoin.com/certlookup/6098096-007/Other/ You might try ebay sold listings (not asking prices) to get a ballpark value on your coin, but that can vary greatly depending on if it's certified by a TPG and the demand when it's sold. Likely around $80 to $160 certified, and around half that raw.