EagleRJO

Try the attached reference, which you should have a copy of if you are into error coins. I believe it has some rotated die prices but I misplaced my copy.

In general coin damage presents as indentations that don't resemble an object, and die cracks or breaks present as raised areas on a coin. Your coin has indentations that don't look like something that could have gotten on the dies during striking, so it's just damage. The technical term for your coin is "spender". If you're interested in errors check out the links in my pinned topic at the top of this sub-forum, including the site www.error-ref.com

Knock yourself out, and good luck staying away from stupid with people like the op on the board!. Not to mention there are only 2 found out of over 6 billion 1982-D cents. It's called you tube. https://coinmarketcap.com/currencies/trollcoin/

Agreed, but it's not up to us to dictate how another member responds.

Why encourage them. You know exactly what's going to happen with the next large date 1982-D they find as they have repeatedly ignored advice and guidance, and now fraudulently posted them for sale. That was the last straw for me as it's the type of stuff ruining this hobby and sites with coins for sale like ebay.

I'm leaning towards agreeing with Mike they are just trolling, as nobody can be that stupid.

No, your not the man or have any clue about these coins. The 1982-D 1C is neither a small date nor a DD, and the 1992 1C in neither a Close AM nor MS68. You also fraudulently posted these in the Coin Market for sale, representing that these are something they are not ... https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/431416-selling-two-elusive-coins1982-sd-bronze1992-close-am-ms-68-rd/ You have posted numerous topics about these types of coins and repeatedly told you didn't have rare coins. Members provided infographics, links and descriptions of how to find the rare ones which you either completely ignored or are simply trolling members as Mike suggested. Then you fraudulently misrepresent these coin in the Marketplace. So I'm done reading your bogus posts and ripoff listings, or trying to help anymore, and you just made my s.h.i.t list.

This is a ripoff listing with the coins not being what is claimed ... https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/431417-1982-sd-dd-rm-bronze-3rd-ever-found-and-1992-close-am-ms-68-rd-make-me-an-offer/

Glad to see someone else actually looking up auction records instead of pulling numbers out of thin air. That is in the ballpark with the certified MS Kennedy half dollar with a similar rotation going for almost $160 which was a nice uncirculated slabbed coin, unlike the op's raw coin which has some wear and is likely an XF grade (see attached example from CoinFacts). I also saw the attached raw half dollar that recently sold for $18 on eBay. Granted it has more wear and slightly less of a rotation. But I think it reinforces the estimated $30 to $50 range for the op's raw coin that also has significant wear but a greater rotation at almost 180 degrees which makes it somewhat more valuable.

The image with the mirror shows it is about a 180 degree die rotation error. Very nice find. Also, you should always hold coins on the edges or use gloves. That is an old article about a craze over state quarter errors when they were first being discovered, and some state quarter error prices went through the roof. That craze is long over and prices have come back down to reality. I have seen recent action records for these state quarter errors at GC and eBay indicating only a modest premium above the coin value, as well as similar rotated die errors for other coins. Like a nice certified MS Kennedy half dollar with a similar rotation going for around $160 on GC. If anyone has sold auction records for this type of rotated die error that indicates otherwise I would sure like to check them out. Not likely at all. It's the mints goal to avoid any errors, so if they are noticed the mint destroys them. Modern coin presses operate at high speeds, so if the dies were misaligned quite a number would have been struck before it would have been noticed, and the dies realigned. And enough would need to have been struck so that when the misaligned dies were noticed the coins would not have just been taken from the bin at the coin press to be destroyed. It's the mint's practice that when an error is discovered it is corrected and any coins with errors that they can find be destroyed. Bottom line is it's not possible that dies worked loose and became rotated or were improperly set, your coin was struck, and then the dies realigned without that coin being destroyed. They are likely just still out in circulation or in collections.

How would an extra coating get on the dime at the mint? That's a question you need to ask yourself when looking for error coins. It's not possible for a struck coin to then end up with an extra coating at the mint. If it's not something that could happen at the mint then it's not an error or worth anything extra. https://boards.ngccoin.com/forum/90-newbie-coin-collecting-questions/

Yes it definitely does look like a large date "2". No need to go any further to torture yourself looking for that rainbow unicorn 1-in-3 billion chance it's a 1982-D copper small date. As if identifying the "2" as a large date isn't enough (it is), if you level the date and zoom in to put a box around it (see attached example) you will see that the alignment is consistent with a large date, as well as the shape of the "8". See the following topic for an infographic on the 1982-D copper small cents to help with your future endeavors ... https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/430263-basic-resources-glossary-for-those-posting-questions/

I agree it looks like just PMD ( post mint damage). Consider that unless you can identify what part of the process at the mint caused the observed condition, which I don't see at all, then it's just plain old PMD. The following topic has a bunch of refetences on mint errors you can check out if error coins are an interest to you. https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/430263-basic-resources-glossary-for-those-posting-questions/

Yea, good observation that got at least me digging into the Morgan references I have and doing some google searches as that is one of my favorite coins. Depends on the dates and if there were previously a good number already graded in those ranges, unlike the former 1903-O king where prices got hammered or the 1889-CC being discussed which would be hammed by a hoard discovery. But I agree the Lincoln Highway hoard, which I think was more like 8k coins in a chest, at least likely pushed prices down a bit.

I assume you mean if you flip the coin vertically (to check the "coin turn") then the reverse or back of the coin is perfectly upside down. As mentioned that would be a 180 degree "Rotated Die". I also assume you got the quarter from general circulation (rolls or pocket change), where most people don't check the "coin turn". There are likely a bunch of them in circulation, but unless it attracted the attention of a collector that likely would not be discovered. I did a quick check of sold rotated die quarters on Great Collections as well as eBay, and the only similar one I found was a 1972-D 25C with about a 120 degree die rotation that went for $24 (attached). A full 180 degree die rotation is more desirable to error collectors, so I would estimate the value would be around $30 to $50 raw like your coin, or around $100 or so certified as the coin appears to be somewhat worn, based on auction/sold listings from Great Collection and ebay. That should also make it clear you would likely lose money submitting it to a TPG for certification, with a cost around $90 to $100 just for that coin.

I occasionally return coins and don't necessarily hold that against a dealer, as long as they didn't misrepresent a coin and there are no problems with the return. Bonus points if I'm sent the return label no matter what the reason is for the return. I think returns are just part of purchasing coins over the internet only based on pictures, where expectations can be different from how a coin actually looks in-hand. Sometime I just don't like the way a coin ends up looking in-hand even if the pictures are representative. A good position to take. That can happen, particularly with different lighting as Kurt mentioned.

Okay, I was just curious since you were saying to maybe submit that when it seemed like such a common minor error to maybe just toss in a flip if it interested them.

Doesn't matter if it's a new or old hoard, the value of those coins were crushed by a discovered hoard consisting of dozens of bank bags, where previous "survival estimates" had figured most were melted. So much for those survival estimates. And the more recent hoards I mentioned did change vales, as around 10,000 to 20,000 mid to upper uncirculated grades from each hoard flooded the market. I think the massive Redfield hoard at around 400,000 coins was an anomaly, and all it takes is a handful of bank bags with coins in pretty good condition and BAM there goes your super rare uncirculated Morgan you dropped boatloads of cash on. If you look at the limited number of higher grade 1889-CC coins you should be able to get a feel for what a handful of bank bags with better coins would do to values. That's the reason I would never drop a bunch of cash on say an uncirculated 1889-CC Morgan.

Yea, I don't really know either. Maybe if you looked at smaller blossoms from the side like the attached. I still don't know what the curved somewhat horizontal lines are suppose to be, but maybe that's intended to represent the division between the brown and white portions.

Individual errors are by definition rare, but not necessarily of interest to collectors. Damage to coins could be considered rare, as it's almost always specific to an individual coin, but of no added value. Minor die cracks, like that on the op's coin, are pretty common in general. They usually add little or no value, unless in an interesting pattern like a "spitting eagle". How many coins like the op's do you think are in the Cherry Pickers Guide?

Maybe we need a botanist to chime in, but I think they are interchangeable with "bolls" a more technically correct term relative to a cotton plant, and "blossom" a more general laypersons description of that after it blooms, or something along those lines. For the Morgans "bolls" is what the ANA grading standard refers to them as, but the TPG's and VAM World refer to them as "blossoms", which I also think what the average person would call them, so I usually go with that. VAM World - Anatomy of the Morgan Dollar Those are horrible pics of that coin, although they do show the limited wear a little better. Are those really the cert pics from the PCG$ site?

You can ask the seller for the cert number to check, but I have encountered this before where a seller had multiples of the same coin from the same TPG. In that case just make sure it's a reputable seller with a good return policy, and carefully look at the coin and holder when received. Not sure why someone would photoshop a holder pic when you can just download one off the NGC or PCG$ website, but it looks pretty close to me comparing it with the NGC cert photo. It may just be different lighting that is making it look different.

Roger can be pretty critical of coins, so you could just take what he says and go up one grade. I agree with the AU Details. No wear to the cap, cotton leaves, cotton blossoms, or hair on the obverse and no wear to the eagles head, neck or breast on the reverse.

That's my understanding as well, although I am already stocked up from when you could still buy them as I saw that coming. In a pinch you can also still get "rough service" incandescent bulbs, which I used on job sites. You can find them for about $1 each, which is not that bad for just one swing-arm lamp for coins ... 100W Rough Service Incandescent Bulbs @auminer try that and let us know how that works out.

Look at auction sites like Great Collections or Heritage Auctions, and even eBay if you avoid the raw coins unless you really know what you are doing. Some like @Coinbuf mention Collectors Corner, but I have never found a good deal on a Morgan with that site. Maybe I have just been unlucky, so some others may chime in on that site.