EagleRJO

Nice! Why have the ones you slabbed in the thin film bags? I started doing that, and have since ditched them unless I am sending them someplace. And what do you and others use to label the coin slab yourself?

I have been looking for an AU-58 1878-CC Morgan for a bit at around $400 +/- and came across this NGC slabbed one graded AU-58 for $425, which seems like a price where they may accept a lower offer, although it seems like it may be a bit scuffed up for an AU-58. Greysheet lists a value of $442, NGC/PCG$ guide price would be around $400, and Redbook would be a little more than that (the higher end of between $300 for AU-50 to $475 for MS-60). I might offer $400 and see what they say. What do you guys think?

That one was from a larger dealer that posts representative pictures of the ones they have in stock, and you have 7 days from when you get the coin to return it for a refund for no reason with some cost to you. But where there are issues with the coin, like this one which was not in at least the condition represented, there is no re-stocking fee and they pay for return postage/insurance, so it really isn't a big deal, just a little bit of a hassle. I have been going with raw coins from the larger dealers with guarantees, or from local dealers where I can actually look at the coin before I buy it, for the Morgans I am collecting because they just are not that valuable for the most part to get TPG slabbed coins. There are probably around a dozen or so more expensive ones in the collection where I am going with TPG coins. I have been a little hesitant to buy raw coins from other than larger dealers, so I appreciate the offer and maybe I will try a few independents for some of the raw ones they don't have in stock and post some pics here. About this one ... it's going back anyway, but I was just really curious about the spots because I haven't seen silver coins with reddish-brown spots before. @RWBI thought horn silver (silver chloride) was dull/dark grey or black and associated with really old silver coins, and not reddish in color on more modern silver coins. And I'm still curious about what ppl think it was dipped in.

I might go with just modern quarters which my kids and I could collect at first by just going through pocket change and rolls. And we already have the state quarters somewhere to jump start that.

Apparently, there are very minor differences between ASE coins struck at the West Point and Philadelphia mints, which maybe a professional grader would know/see. A very limited amount of the 2017(P) coins were struck. To get the (P) label it needs to be submitted in the sealed box from the mint. Of the limited number struck, there are likely significantly less that were kept in the sealed mint box to even be eligible to get that label. About the price, it's like any other collectible where if there are limited numbers of ones that are desired the value goes up. Also, there is an entry for a 2017(P) coin in the NGC ASE Complete Registry Set. But that price does seem a bit much for just a bullion coin. Finally, why in the world would anyone get a common 2017(W) bullion coin TPG slabbed. The net value is prolly less than the melt value.

What do you think they dipped it in? Acetone? And why would someone dip the coin if it's going to leave those marks? Also, by slider do you guys here mean simply an AU58 that maybe could "slide" by as a MS occasionally, or do you mean the unscrupulous practice of cleaning a coin to try and make it look like a BU? I have heard it used both ways. In any event I'm returning the coin because I'm not happy with the condition/spots, and I think your right about the marks on the face.

I am looking for some suggestions on sets to collect which could be fun but not too much money. I am already working on a complete Morgan and ASE collection, and have gotten a handful of nice gold coins I liked, so Im really looking for something that's more just for the enjoyment, and not likely to use up significant funds I want to put into my other collections. I was thinking about US Half Dollars or maybe Quarters. I actually have some rolls of older half dollars i havent gone through, and a while back me and my kids all collected the 50 State quarters which are around somewhere. Not really interested in collecting smaller demoninations/coins like pennys/nickels/dimes which I know some do. And maybe get a book to fill instead of slabbing/grading them like my other coins. I remember my mom had a book of common coins to collect, and she used to rummage through everybody's change and rolls of coins to try and find certain ones. So, I'm thinking of something like that, maybe that I can do with my kids also even though they are older now.

Careful dipping in what? Acetone, which I have heard (along with a product called MS70 Coin Brightener) can be used to remove dirt/spots without effecting the condition/luster of the coin?

It's supposed to be BU, and I really like the coin except for the dark spots, which I got for a good price. It has a nice shine and reflection when tilted near a light source which you just can't convey with pics. But I may just return it or exchange it because it shouldn't have been shipped as a BU coin with those dark spots.

I am curious if the dark spots on the attached silver coin (e.g. reverse near the "L" in Dollar and near the "ME" in America) is silver oxide/sulfide or degradation of the silver resulting from improper storage in too humid an environment? I am asking because the spots actually appear to have a reddish-brown like color, and not a very dark or black appearance. Silver does not "rust" like iron or steel (with rust on steel presenting as a reddish colored deposit), it breaks down or oxidizes which often has a dark or black appearance. It can be a general surface condition over time (i.e. tarnish), or localized like on this coin from slight/localized imperfections that make it more susceptible to oxidation. I think it's oxidation of the silver, but it just doesn't look like what I have seen before.

Hmmm, I could use some noob grading vouchers. How do I get those? ;-)

So, is that just a poor condition due to a weak strike, or a mint error? Seems like just a weak strike coin.

Pretty funny, gonna have to borrow that term ... And after the parking lot find, gotta take it home and grind it with a dremel wire wheel and buffer so it comes out all nice and shiny ... offfff

I guess I tend to look at things from a different perspective of being okay with doing some research, looking at things for myself and hopefully learning more along the way. He should have had the tools and references to know it didn't come out of the mint that way, and be willing to spend a little time coming to that conclusion on his own. I guess I never thought that in a million years the guy might actually send out the coin for someone to look at, which would be a waste. Well, at least the band aid has been ripped of now. Sorry about your coin bro that it's not a keeper ... ;-)

No, I did from some other posts about that where i cringed at typing "uncirculated criculation strike" ... ;-)

Sounds like the "Complete Morgan VF/XF Currency Set" I am working on except I have been getting AU/BU grades if they are only a little more. I feel your angst about some of the coins in the set, and my wallet is not looking forward to adding the 1889-CC, 1892-S and 1893-CC/O/S Morgans ... although I am lol. I might have to settle for less than VF on those. @DWLangeCare to share some pictures of the Morgan set you put together?

No, I was trying not to come off as being too harsh on the guy's coin ...lol

I like that, and it's not awkward saying "uncirculated currency strike". ; -)

There does appear to be signs of mechanical cleaning (vertical scrape marks in the first pic), particularly around the edges of the head, rim and numbers/letters where crud would accumulate over time if not protected. Some geniuses use a small dremel wire wheel and buffer thinking they will end up with a nice shiny penny worth a lot, when in reality they just destroyed the value. It kind of looks like that. When people ask about cleaning, I understand the correct response is DONT DO IT, especially for older coins where a good part of the value could be the surface appearance or luster and color that can be affected by something simple like using a chemical cleaner or solution, which coin grading experts can usually detect. BTW don't use a toothpick even for basic crud cleaning, because even that will leave little scrape marks visible under magnification. My understanding is that the most you should do for less valuable coins is clean them with mild soap and water, or maybe a cleaner like MS70 and a cotton swab with warm water, and NEVER mechanically clean a coin. And for coins that may be valuable, it might be wort having it professionally cleaned by a company like NGC (Coin Conservation | NCS | Numismatic Conservation Services | NGC (ngccoin.com). I think when you send a coin to NGC they may say it has to be restored first before it can be graded, or you could request that. Maybe some of the more seasoned members here have had experience with doing that.

Yea, raw coins is the way I'm going for most of my Morgan collection [the complete opposite of my Silver Eagle collection] as many are commonly available in very good condition. I find it much more interesting to try and evaluate the condition and value of the more common coins myself, instead of just reading a TPG label and looking at a list. And I do check the basics when I buy a coin. I'm sure some of them will be off, and I may get an occasional fake since I understand they are getting hard to detect. But no big deal for me between having what I think is a $60 to $70 AU/MS coin vs maybe it's actually a $40 to $50 VF/XF coin or worst case a fake. For the more expensive ones I am definitely going with TPG slabbed. And when I'm gone, I won't know they didn't grade out the way I thought they would ;-)

@J P Mashoke I was referring more so to auctioned prices, and not dealer prices which I haven't really been following. And is that silver tongue 99.9% fine silver ;-) Also, one more question ... does ASE refer to American Silver Eagle's in general, or just to the proof coins?

Yes, I know a coin is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. I have been using the Red Book, along with Greysheet values, as a guide to have a general idea of what a coin may go for, particularly for some more valuable coins I want to add to my collection. I have been finding that values in my area generally have been falling somewhere between the two, although prices for some coins have been coming down lately. Maybe I'll be able to add the missing 1889-CC, 1892-S and 1893-CC/O/S Morgans in my collection if they drop far enough ;-) I also don't see a definition/explanation, but they do say generally that it means using a polished coin blank on their website.

I'm not an expert, but that seems like quite a lot of mechanical damage to be from just rattling around in mint bags/bins or from a possible mis-strike. Have you looked at it up close with a good loupe to see if there are any wear indications, particularly at high points, and compared it to graded coins that look similar? I am finding that the PCGS and NGC sites are a great resource for coin condition. PCGS Grading Standards PCGS Coin Price Guide: The Industry Standard for US Coin Values NGC Coin Price Guide and Values | NGC

I live on Long Island not too far outside of NY City. I don't see any upcoming large coin shows, just a local monthly one I might check out anyway.

I only signed up for the Proof enrolment ... seems like both is going down that label rabbit hole ;-)