Hoghead515

On 9/18/2023 at 11:07 AM, ldhair said:

I know it's ugly.

 

I like it. 

Did you snag it at the end of the line?  

On 9/14/2023 at 1:11 PM, zadok said:

...basically true...but everything digitally stored or cloud associated is retrievable from external sources...every keystroke...ill just have to buy extra fire extinguishers n pray...but good luck on providing a competitive repository source for collectors not as skeptical as myself....

Same here. I use paper also. Im still yet to buy my first computer. Never owned one. My son has a lap top I use sometimes. Not very good with it though. I use my phone to get on this website. I also put a few coins on NGC registry. It helps to keep track of several of my certified coins. I keep all my coins recorded on paper in a zip up 5 star note book. I keep it in a fire proof safe. I also keep all the reciepts of coins I purchased in the safe. I keep a mean wife watching over the safe.

Im learning a little more each day about websites and technology. Im light years behind most people my age with computers. One question I have @RaritiesValue.com. Can you access your website by phone or do you have to use a computer? 

On 9/16/2023 at 2:25 AM, Kassi24 said:

If the price is right I would consider selling it!

I thought earlier you didnt want to sell it. Now no one will believe you after that trick. Even if you were going to sell it on here no one will buy it now. No one will trust you. I was actually hoping you really had one and was very happy for you. 

On 9/13/2023 at 9:27 PM, The Neophyte Numismatist said:

Everyone here agrees that the coin is a nice find.  Anyone of us would love to find it in change.  The debate is over the price.  Unless you are planning on selling it, the price doesn't matter.  Enjoy your trophy from the wild and don't be concerned with the price.  Selling this coin will only take the joy out of your experience, this I can assure you.

Very well said. 

Most of the things you think are errors will turn out to be damage and anomalies from worn dies. Its very rare to find true mint errors. If I were you I would study up on the minting process and how true errors are made. Theres many good books and information on the topic. And if you think you found a true dd then go to NGC variety plus or variety vista and compare yours to the known double dies they have listed. If you find one thst matches yours then you may have one. If it dosent match any of the known ones then more than likely its machine doubling. 

On 9/13/2023 at 8:31 PM, Wnyku said:

Thank You. I will read the article for sure. So witch coins are worth more. Die variety or mint errors. I found few with errors like no L in Liberty or double die in Lincoln face. I will post them later. When DD is considered worth something ? Because I have quite few already with DD on them. Sorry, I know it can be funny for you but I m totally newbie in that 😜. But even tho I found that so interesting and reading day and night. I found 1982 no mint, small date 3.1g with some DD and errors. I think that one will be worth few $ but I may be wrong. I know already that the most expensive will be D mint, small date and bronze one but the one I have with no D mark, have so many errors. Well , still learning and thank You so much for any advice ❤️❤️. 

Most of the DD coins you find in circulation is machine doubling. Its a worthless type of doubling. True DDs are very rare to find in circulation and most of them are only worth a few bucks depending on which ones and the condition of the coin. Machine doubling is very common. If you roll hunt you will find it on several coins. Ive looked through hundreds and hundreds of coins the past few years and only found 2 true DD coins. And they are not worth much but still fun for me to collect. 

On 9/9/2023 at 3:09 PM, Kassi24 said:

And?

I assume your comment is in response to what @Conder101 said. He is saying  the coin values in the letter you shared were a completely different type of coin than what you have and they were more valuable. Same type error though. Like I was saying in one of my earlier post, a special series of a coin  thats uncirculated with an error is much more valuable than a very common coin thats heavily circulated with the same type of error. Its like trying to compare steak to lettuce. Lettuce is still good but a little less valuable than steak. 

On 9/2/2023 at 11:38 PM, Kassi24 said:

If you want to go ahead and assume it’s been “put together” go ahead and assume all you want. Lol that’s totally fine with me. Like I said I’m not a coin collector I just happen to find this in some change I got back. I have better things to do then figure out how to make fake coins. That’s not my thing. It’s been verified to me from credible coin shops in the Salt Lake City area that it is a real quarter nothing fake about it. Assume whatever you want it isn’t going to make a difference to me either way. Have a great night!

Just because you didnt make it dosent mean someone before you didnt make it and put it back into circulation. People do all sorts of crazy things to coins. No one is accusing you of making fake coins. You asked for help and they are trying to help you. And its very critical they see the edge of the coin to help. I believe you its legit and you took and had it checked but the people on here are just simply asking for a picture so they can verify it as well. If you go to a doctor and then go get a second opinion from another doctor in another state, the doctor who knows nothing about the first doctor is going to take their word for what they said was wrong with you.  They will want to check you out for themselves. Thats why you were asked for an edge picture of the coin. You came on here asking for help. In coins those pictures are crucial pieces of evidence needed to help check your coin. If those coin shops were that credible then they would have been able to tell you how it was made during the minting process and its value. If they dont know that then they dont need to be selling people coins. If you were just wanting a second opinion from people on here then dont get upset when questions are asked and listen to their advice. There are experts on here with decades of experience. They are very much into numismatics and enjoy helping people but you have to want to be helped. 

On 9/6/2023 at 1:15 AM, powermad5000 said:

I am not so sure it is the trumpet S (I know that one is the more common one of the Large S of this year). The trumpet S to me is more "open" with more of a "ball" on the lower part of the S than there is with a serif. The following photo is from NGC VarietyPlus of the FS-501 Trumpet S. I get that this is a photo of a specimen in high quality and the OP's is worn, but I still think this may not be the Trumpet S.

 

The next photos are from the NGC VarietyPlus page of the FS-503 Large Serif S. In these the top of the S seems more "closed" and "filled" and the lower part of the S is less of a "ball" shape and more of a serif shape. Imho, the OP's coin looks more like the FS-503.

I believe your right. The circulated condition of the quarter had me fooled. 

I sure do believe it is a trumpet S. It looks like it to me anyways. I could be wrong though. I bought one of these at GC auction a few months ago in MS and it got lost in the mail. I was heartbroken. Got a great deal on it. They refunded my money though so that was good to at least get my money back. Could have been worse. 

Nice find @Mr.Bill347. Thats a sweet looking Morgan!!!

On 9/5/2023 at 12:26 PM, ldhair said:

Looks like the mods have been cleaning up. 

Looks like a few post disappeared. 

On 9/4/2023 at 11:40 PM, VKurtB said:

Yes but, there are also non-WW2 year Hennings. They are of substandard quality. Therefore, your first sort is to set aside the really crummy looking nickels of the correct years. 

I couldnt remember all the years he made them. Thanks for adding that. I think I remember seeing where hed been making them for a while but he got caught during the war nickel years. 

From what Ive learned about them is during world war 2 time the Mint put the large mint marks on the nickels they made out of silver.  Henning messed up and didnt put those large mint marks on his counterfeits and thats what got him caught. If you find a nickel from that era thats supposed to have a large mint mark on it and it dosent then more than likely its a Hennings nickel. 

On 9/4/2023 at 8:58 PM, Henri Charriere said:

@Hoghead515 :  There's your answer, Hog. There was a time when a U.S. Mint product could be had for as little as two dollars and change. (My thanks to the OP and VKurtB!.)

That was quite a bit of money in some places back in the 50s and 60s. Here where we live ive heard some of the old timers talking about working all day to make very little. Id say those were easy targets in the poverty striken areas. Some unhonest postal workers could easily get a 6 pack or two with one of those sets at the bootleggers. Dosent look like they made any effort to disquise the box in any way. Thats the first time Ive ever seen one of the original boxes. Thanks for sharing @VKurtB

On 9/4/2023 at 11:52 AM, VKurtB said:

Especially early flat set years - 1956 comes to mind. I have an addressed and stamped and mailed 1951 box set. 
 

Wonder how many of those were stolen from the mail back in the day. It has STEAL ME written all over it. Seems people were a little more honest in those days but Im sure there were still plenty of crooks. That was quite a bit of money in that box for most in 1951.

On 9/4/2023 at 9:40 AM, Fenntucky Mike said:

Tokens are going strong right now HH, I'd plan on spending a $100 for some of these at auction, especially late 19th - early 20th century examples. Some of the lumber, coal/mining, and RR tokens for MI are selling in the mid to high three figures, some hitting four, I imagine similar KY tokens are probably around the same.   Still, there will be plenty of the more readily available and modern type tokens that can be had for around $20 or less. Tokens of any type are a great supplement to a coin collection, or even choosing to focus primarily on them with coins on the backburner. Regardless, I know you'll have fun with whichever you pick and I look forward to seeing the examples you acquire. Good Luck. 

Ive been looking on Ebay just at the local coal company tokens. There is plenty of them. Ive noticed a few in flips with R5 on them. Does anyone know what that means? Is that a rarity number. Theres much I need to learn about these. I found one token from the county Im originally from. Carter County. Im gonna try and bid on it. There were several old clay mines around carter county. It sounds like a fun project to collect them and share the fun with my sons. Maybe help us learn more of the history and locations from our home state together. 

On 9/4/2023 at 8:37 AM, Conder101 said:

While some Conder tokens may have traveled over here it would just be a small number and not any organized shipment of tokens  (Closest connection would be the Talbot Alum & Lee tokens of Philadelphia which were produced in England by the same firms that were producing Conder tokens and the those dies can be found muled with dies used for other Conder tokens.  The Conder tokens didn't begin until 1787 and most of them were struck in the 1793 - 1797 period by which time out mint was already in operation.  There were some pieces that were struck in an attempt to secure a coinage contract to produce  our coinage.  If you look at the Washington pieces in the redbook many of those are actually Conder tokens and the reverse dies were muled with other Conder token dies as well.  Other Conder tokens listed in the Redbook include the Kentucky Cent, the Theatre at New York token (The reverse is a Conder token die) and the Franklin Press token.

As to the GTT (Genuine Trade Tokens ) which is what I mainly collect, I only collect those from the English counties and I don't collect all the edge varieties just the obv/rev combinations.  There are 658 different GTT tokens of which I have 558 of them.

Overall, including edge varieties, there are very close to 5,000 Conder token varieties.  The most complete collection I knew of was Robinson S Brown's collection.  He has something like 4,800 of them.  I know of a couple other collections in the 3,000 piece range.

Even after all this time there are still new discoveries that can be made, I have discovered four new obv/rev die pairings and at least two known varieties with new edge varieites.

There are many ways you can collect the tokens.  My first goal as just one token from each of the 39 English counties.  About 35 of them are pretty easy, three of them are tough, one you are almost certainly not going to get.  Leicestershire,  There are only 18 tokens from that county.  Not 18 varieties, 18 tokens total from two different varieties.  You could pick a county and try to get a token from each of the cities that issued a token.  There are many individual "series that a popularly collected such as the tokens for Pidcock Exhibition.  Pidcock had a menagerie and produced  tokens with many of the animals on them and there are various pairing obv/rev of these animals and the were issued as both half pence and farthings. There are probably better than 30 differnt Pidcock tokens.  Another series I collect are what are called Skidmore's Churches and Gates. Skidmore was a prolific issuer of tokens for various things adn one of them was a series of tokens that pictured every Chuch within, and every Gate through the old Walled City of London (The Old city of London was the original walled city located within todays London.  It covers one square mile..)  There are 128 churches and gates in the series, I have over 80 of them.  They are very nice and with issued in proof or prooflike condition.  Something else I collect are the Lady Godivia tokens from the city of Coventry in Warwickshire.  Everyone knows the story of Lady Godiva, will in 1792 the city produced alarge numbers of tokens with the city arms on one side and Lady Godiva on the other.  They were very popular and were widely used.  This attracted the attention of counterfeiters and they produced their own tokens in 1793.  The problem was the 1792 issue was enough for the city and they didn't make any 1793 tokens.  So all 1792 tokens are genuine, and all 1793 tokens are contemporary counterfeits.  I have all of the 1792 vareites and I lack one 1793 variety.  (The standard reference Dalton & Hamer catalogs both genuine and contemporary counterfeit Conder tokens.)  There are many other ways or series you can collect in the Conders.

In circulated condition the Conders as still relatively cheap, but not like they were when I started seriously collecting them back in 1997.  Back then uncirculated  common tokens could be had for $20 apiece.  Today I doubt you could get an uncirculated for under $200 to $250 dollars. (a bit pricy, but if they were Unc large cent from the same era you would be looking in mid five figures.)  But circulated pieces can still be had for $30 to $50 dollars.  I wish I had bought more back then, or had started buying Conders when I first started collecting.  Back them Unc's were $2 each and mint red coins were $3

 

 

Thank you for the information. Its always great to hear your advice and information you share. Thats a very impressive collection you have going on. Im thinking about buying a couple I really like just to have a couple in my collection. Ive always had an interest in them since I first discovered them for myself. I actually first discovered them on Ebay and then wanted to know more about them. I really think Im gonna take @zadok advice and collect mine -script tokens. Ive thought about it for quite a while now. I didnt know they were all catologued where a person can use it as a guide and look for them until he shared the post above. Espically since several of them are from right around my area. I could probably do some digging in some of the towns Im in working all the time and maybe find local dealers who have them. There are numerous amounts on Ebay also. 

Im still gonna collect a few of the Conders as I get the chance. Ill probably have to get them in circulated condition. Im really wanting to find that one with the stork on it that I missed out on in that auction. I found the same one with a $65 price tag but Im gonna try hold off and find it cheaper later on. There are a few of the Conders I really like. Im glad I started this thread because I learned a whole lot from it that I didnt know. I never knew there were so many varieties. 

On 9/3/2023 at 3:38 PM, Lem E said:

I never in a million years thought I would ever be where I am with that set but, the closer I got the harder I started to push. High rank doesn't determine the quality of set. It’s all about the effort and dedication you put into a set that makes them great.

I remember you sure put some work into it. Finding the coins, getting pics done, and the descriptions. It is a well deserving set. 

On 9/3/2023 at 3:27 PM, NeverEnoughCoins09 said:

@Hoghead515 @EagleRJO i have before  that's what made me give up on a nickel registry  I was like yeah there's no way.

You can still put a set together on the registry. If your budget is anything like mine it will be hard to take some those top spots but its still fun to take part in. Im ranked way up well over 100 in my Washington quarter set and I know ill probably never make it into the top 50 but its still fun to display my coins in the registry. 

On 9/3/2023 at 3:15 PM, NeverEnoughCoins09 said:

I understand and agree thank you though. Yeah a lot of things out there that explain how to also but then they do warn against grading  yeah it sucks how some people just want a quick buck..

Yep those artifical toners get a details grade just as a damaged coin does. Like @Lem E said those nickels do tone some amazing colors. Hes got some beauties in his set. If u get the chance you outta check out his registry set. @EagleRJO beat me to it.  I was literally typing that out when his message went through. Lem's collection is some of the finest nickels you will lay eyes on. He was ranked #1 there for a while.