Sandon

Although there are four varieties of 1965 Canadian cents, the only one worth a premium is the variety with large beads and a pointed top "5". Yours appears to be a common large beads, blunt 5, worth only nominal value in this worn condition. Canada Cent KM 59.1 Prices & Values | NGC (ngccoin.com). As indicated in my reply to your topic regarding the 1952 cent, the "K.G." is just the designer's initials.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. This is a common 1952 Canadian cent, which has a mintage of over 67.6 million pieces and a retail list value of 20 cents or so in this circulated (worn) condition. See Canada Cent KM 41 Prices & Values | NGC (ngccoin.com). The letters "K.G." appear on all Canada cents with this reverse design and identify its designer, George E. Kruger-Gray.

Please post full, cropped photos of each side of the coin as well as a much sharper closeup. From the current image, it does not appear that this coin is a match to or even resembles the 1999 Lincoln cent shown at https://www.error-ref.com/?s=mule+die+clash.

Unless you are a devoted, advanced collector of Morgan dollars by VAM (Van Allen & Mallis) die varieties, including the more obscure ones, I don't know why you are "wanting to purchase" this coin, especially if the seller is asking for a premium over a normal price for an 1878-S dollar graded MS 62. The "VAM World" website lists known varieties for 1878-S Morgan dollars numbered from 1 to 134, with some die state variants given additional designations, and a few dubious numbered varieties having been delisted. See http://www.vamworld.com/wiki/1878-S_VAMs. Although ANACS has distinguished itself by attributing all VAMs, other services, such as NGC, generally only attribute the more popular VAMs, primarily those designated the "Top 100", the "Hot 50", and the "Hit List 40". See Morgan Dollars (1878-1921) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com) for the list of Morgan dollar varieties attributable by NGC, which does not include the 1878-S VAM 95. The reason that you are having difficulty finding sales records or price listings for this variety is that because of its obscurity, there aren't many recorded sales. It would be difficult to determine just what if any premium a collector of the more obscure VAMs would be willing to pay for this variety in this grade. Some collectors "cherrypick" such varieties from unattributed or uncertified coins without paying a premium.

Unfortunately, this 1889 Indian cent is well-worn ("Good" details) and corroded, so it really isn't possible to tell whether the tiny dot was imparted by the die when the coin was struck or is the result of subsequent damage or alteration. It could be just a bit of foreign matter. Someone would have to find an example in much higher grade to identify it as a die variety. No such variety for this date is listed in guides to significant varieties, for example NGC VarietyPlus, Indian Cents (1859-1909) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com).

The recesses of Lincoln's head are an area of high die stress, and cents with "cracked skulls" and the like are a frequent occurrence on pieces of most eras. If you find them interesting, feel free to collect them. Just don't act under the impression that they are some sort of rarity or have significant market value. This coin also appears to have a die crack running from the center of the truncation of Lincoln's bust to the rim, so this coin was apparently struck from a well-used obverse die. The coin appears to be uncirculated ("mint state") and full red, but if you're looking for an opinion as to what numerical grade a third-party grading service would give it, I wouldn't guess. I would really need to see the coin in hand at different lighting angles and magnifications and even then could only provide a range of three or so grades. It's almost certainly not worth submitting to a grading service (at NGC $19 grading fee alone), nor is it likely that NGC would classify the die cracks as a "mint error" (additional $18 fee whether it were so designated or not).

This is just different terminology used by the grading services, ostensibly to describe the same grade. NGC uses the term "Ultra Cameo", usually spelled out on its holders but sometimes abbreviated "UCAM", while PCGS uses "Deep Cameo", abbreviated "DCAM" on its holders. Similarly, NGC designates proof coins "PF" and PCGS "PR". A coin that NGC labeled "PF 69 ULTRA CAMEO" would be labeled by PCGS "PR69DCAM".

It's quite difficult to explain this without having you look at actual coins, but I'll try. A coin that has light "rub" from brief circulation or mishandling will show dullness instead of mint frost on the highest points of the design. This dullness may be quite hard to see when the coin is viewed "straight on" with light directly overhead. Such coins should be graded Choice AU (55-58), although they (especially pre-1837 U.S. coins) sometimes receive lower mint state grades from grading services. Coins that have never been in circulation but have been abraded by coin-to-coin contact in rolls or bags will also suffer a loss of luster on the highest points but should be shiny in those areas, not dull. Those coins should receive uncirculated grades, though obviously affected by the abrasions, although they do not have "full luster". Here is a Stacks Bowers photo of the reverse of a 1928 Peace dollar that NGC (accurately, in my opinion) graded AU 58. Note the slight dullness at the tips of some of the eagle's wing and tail feathers, which would be more obvious if I were able to show the coin at an angle:

I see no indication that the planchet was "elliptical". The collar appears to have been normally deployed around the entire edge of the coin, as the reeding runs evenly around the edge. I continue to believe that the raised area or "fin" of metal was created by pressure from the misalignment of the die and that the upper part of this thin piece of metal subsequently broke and became partly detached. I suggest that you might want to show your photos of this coin to CONECA and/or Sullivan Numismatics for an expert opinion.

This well-worn coin was likely "cleaned", although the streaky color could have resulted from an improper mixture of the bronze alloy as sometimes happened during that period but as I recall is most frequently seen on "S" mint cents. Some refer to them as having "woodgrain toning" or as "woodies". Speaking personally, I don't find this coloration very interesting even if natural. To my knowledge, it does not command a premium.

For best attention, this topic would have been better posted on the "Ask NGC/NCS" forum for an answer from the NGC staff or the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" or "U.S., World, and Ancient Coins" forum for responses from other forum members. The answer to your question is, "yes, for a price." Go to NGC Services and Fees | NGC (ngccoin.com) and see "CrossOver" at the bottom of the list of "NGC Add-on Services". If you are unfamiliar with submitting coins to NGC, you should also carefully review other pertinent portions of that page, as well as the other topics and forms under the "Submit" tab at the top of the page. You will have to sign a consent for NGC to remove the coin from the PCGS holder, with NGC asserting that it will use reasonable care but will not be liable for any resulting damage to the coin, so if you feel more comfortable "cracking out" the coin yourself, you can do so and submit the coin in the usual way. Note that just submitting this one coin will require payment of the $10 per order processing fee and $28 minimum per order return shipping fee, in addition to the grading fee for the appropriate tier, so if you are determined to "cross" this coin, it might be more cost effective to submit it with other coins or submit it through a dealer NGC member.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. As stated by @cobymordet, the dates and mintmarks of "Native American" dollars issued beginning in 2009 are on the coin's edge. (Occasionally, the edge is blank.) These coins continue the obverse design of the 2000-2008 Sacagawea dollar on the obverse but have a different reverse design each year. Coins dated 2009-2011 were made in some quantity for circulation; the 2010 "Great Law of Peace" issue had mintages of 32,060,000 in Philadelphia ("P" mintmark) and 48,720,000 in Denver ("D" mintmark). The mint has only sold circulation quality coins dated 2012 to date to collectors in rolls and bags, and they are included in annual uncirculated coin ("mint") sets. You can obtain information like this and should be able to identify all U.S. coins from a current (2024, 2025 edition expected in April) or recent edition of A Guide Book of United States Coins, commonly known as the "Redbook", available from its publisher at whitman.com. You can find other important print and online resources from which you should benefit as a new collector in the "Basic Resources and Glossary" topic linked above and in the following topic:

Although the photos are better than in your previous post on the Marketplace forum, their resolution is inadequate to get a clear view of the "S" mintmark. The coin is in approximately Very Good condition (a worn grade), possibly with light surface damage. In this condition, and assuming that the coin is genuine and unimpaired, it would have a retail list value of approximately $90-$110. Dealers could be expected to pay between half and two thirds of this amount, less if the coin is damaged or otherwise impaired. The mintmark on a genuine 1909-S Lincoln cent should look like this image from NGC Counterfeit Detection, including the circled little raised dot in the upper loop of the "S": If your coin's mintmark does not closely match this one, allowing for wear, it is likely an added mintmark, which would have no collector value.

As indicated by @Coinbuf, if you want the NGC staff to respond, you need to post your topic in the "Ask NGC/NCS" forum or contact customer service. When I answered your previous inquiry about this matter, I had forgotten that NGC sometimes does not include photos of coins submitted in bulk submissions. See NGC Website FAQs - Verify NGC Certification | NGC (ngccoin.com) and open answer to "Why are there no images of my coin in NGC Certificate Verification?" These bullion issue Mexican Onzas were likely included in such a submission, which could include hundreds of coins of the same type submitted by a dealer at a discounted rate.

This topic exemplifies why it is necessary to examine coins in-hand to grade them. I noticed that the hair detail didn't seem quite full and there was slight flatness on the highest leaves on the reverse, but that is often the case on circulation strike Barber dimes. It wasn't possible to determine whether the coin had actual "rub" or loss of detail from a single set of photos taken head on, and I have often seen the top-tier grading services give lower mint state grades to coins with noticeable "rub". Those who responded gave a range of grades from AU 58 to MS 66, with one suggesting that the coin had been "details" graded due to the hairlines or "slide marks" that I noted. No one got it "right." Here are the Stacks Bowers photos of a 1913 Barber dime in my collection that PCGS graded MS 64, with a noticeable mark or scratch and surrounding area of disturbance on Liberty's cheek. Liberty's hair doesn't seem very well defined either. When actually viewed in hand, however, the disturbed area on the cheek is only noticeable at a certain angle and doesn't look as bad even then. The hair has full luster with no "rub".

Welcome to the NGC chat board. As indicated by the initial reply, your topic would receive better attention if posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum, as the Coin Marketplace forum is devoted to topics offering to buy or sell coins in accordance with the posted guidelines. I suggest that you repost it there and that you include cropped photos of both sides of the coin. By "cropped", I mean photos that show entirely or primarily the coin and as little as possible of the surface on which it sits. From the present single, small photo, I cannot tell whether the coin is genuine or whether it is one of the many fakes created by adding an "S" to a 1909 cent struck in Philadelphia. I also cannot tell whether if genuine it is a 1909-S (worth $75-$100 retail if the reverse is in the same condition as the obverse) or a 1909-S V.D.B. with small "V.D.B" initials at the bottom of the reverse, which would be worth substantially more.

These coins were either polished with metal polish or plated. Either form of improper treatment will result in an unnaturally shiny surface. Even if the 1940 dime had been struck as a proof, it would not retain a mirror (not "shiny") surface worn down to Fine grade as it is. FYI, an untoned proof "Mercury" dime looks like this 1942 (PCGS graded PR 66):

No. One is quite sufficient. I've never heard of anyone collecting these by their exact appearance.

Toning that is considered "enhancing" or "attractive" is part of this nebulous factor as considered by the grading services, as I understand it.

A coin with a reeded edge that was struck with a partial collar would have a portion of its edge without reeding, in this case the portion of the edge nearest the reverse. See https://www.error-ref.com/?s=partial+collar. This coin appears to have the entire edge reeded. It would be helpful to have a photo of the entire edge adjacent to the "finned" area. I still think that the anomaly is most likely the result of a misaligned (angled) obverse die.

I assume that what you meant to ask was, "Are the half dollars included in 1965 Special Mint Sets different from the 1965 half dollars made for circulation?" The answer to that question is "yes." See pp. 362-63 of the 2018 "Redbook" you indicated you have (pp. 370-71 of the 2023 edition). The pieces produced for circulation have a normal frosty luster when uncirculated, not the satiny or semi-prooflike finish of the coins produced for 1965 Special Mint Sets.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. The outer layers of clad coins are composed of a copper nickel alloy consisting of 75% copper, 25% nickel. (Nickels are composed entirely of this alloy.) This alloy darkens like this when buried in the ground or exposed to certain other unfavorable environmental conditions.

Although it can be very difficult to grade uncirculated coins through photos, I would estimate the numerical grade of this 1907 Barber dime as MS 62. I note a considerable number of hairline scratches on the obverse, possibly from the movement of an album slide. It is possible that the graders added an additional point for the toning, but I would not.

The topic author chose to post photos of the coins as a separate topic, so this thread continues here:

Even though the photos are not cropped as we requested (meaning that they show only the coin and not the surface on which it sits) and are turned sideways, it is clear that your coins were not struck from the obverse die that produced the extremely rare FS-101 doubled die variety and do not appear to be doubled die coins at all. (It would have been preferable for future readers trying to learn about this subject if you had just posted the photos on your original topic and allowed that thread to continue.) Here is the photo of the obverse of a genuine example of this variety from NGC VarietyPlus: Note the crisp, clear doubling on the lettering and the date, with both images at about the same level, with "notching" between the images, quite unlike strike doubling (shallow, step-like secondary images) or die deterioration doubling (ghost-like, indistinct secondary images). On a doubled die coin, the doubling is in the die, so every coin struck from the die will have exactly the same doubling. Unless your coins have characteristics that are an exact match to the coin in the photo, they are not of this variety. (If you think that your coins are a match, please post better photos.) As a new collector, it is essential that you master the basics of collecting U.S. coins, including types, the relative rarities of coins of specific dates, mints, and major varieties; grading, basic authentication, and how coins are made, before you get into more advanced topics such as die varieties and mint errors. Please refer to the following forum topics to obtain print and online resources that will enable you to acquire the knowledge necessary to become a successful collector: