Moxie15

That does not seem to show any die doubling in my opinion. It looks to be a bit of die wear and machine doubling. 

A man could keep something cleaner than a woman... I am speechless

To me that looks as if it was designed and  "engraved" total by computer. I see no artistry in it at all. But then again many Celtic and Anglo-Saxon coins have less than stellar artistry. so 

There is much GOOD advice here and I mean no disrespect to anyone but these type of hoards or accumulations seldom hold anything of great value.

The stamps I have no knowledge of so I would say store them so they are flat and remove any rubber bands keep them in a dry place and do not move them around a lot until you are ready to go through them. Modern stamps, although quite beautiful are seldom worth more than face value

The bills store as others have said, do not fold spindle or mutilate. Most circulated bills saved by the average Joe are worth little or nothing above face value, but there are many minor things that can make them valuable so these deserve some time spent on them

The coins... I think you mentioned state quarter sets, if so spend them. You will look long to find anyone who will pay a premium for them. Quarters, dimes, and nickels 1965 and onward are spenders. Lincoln cents 1959 forward are spenders

The wheat cents have minor value  on the whole with a few dates that are valuable. Sort them by decades and put them in rolls or tubes for later inspection

Sort the Buffalos by date and no date. The date was a high place on the coin and wore off fast. Most dateless buffs are worth about 6 cents but there are a few special dates that can be identified even if the date is long gone because there is something else on the coin that tells the experts what it is and those still have value.

Pre 1964 are silver and have value so keep them together.

I envy you, I love sorting through such collections even though they seldom hold much. I have sorted through large collections like these for others four time, two were of almost no value above face , one was pretty good with lots of silver and a few early 1800 coins and one left me breathless and sweating. When the family wanted to sell them I recommended a trustworthy dealer who paid them over half again what I thought they would get,

On 9/10/2023 at 4:42 PM, RWB said:

The OP is correct. There's nothing in the coining process that would make the "big dent." Now, what's the next logical step?

A ball peen hammer would do it methinks

That would seem like an extraordinary amount of 5 cent coins in 1872. I tried to look up weekly pay for 1872 and wound up here 

https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=nyp.33433075932602&seq=1

on page 101 of the annual report of the Commissioners of Emgiration of the State of New York for the year ending ... 1870 is listed the weekly pay of a Goldsmith as $20 to $30. This looks to be a well paid profession, well above many professions listed, makes me wonder why would this company on Wall Street need enough nickels to pay a  Goldsmith for 10 weeks.

The OP coin is very nice but would grade as no more than Extra Fine in the British standards. I am putting together a type set of British coins from William III to Elizabeth II, so far from an expert, I have experience with their grading. Things we accept such as cabinet friction or weak strike will more often than not keep the coin from an Uncirculated grade. That coin is well struck for the type and period, at least by what I have seen, and would be a daamn fine addition to just about any collection. You like it and are proud of it as you should be. If that is a typical example of your collection I would enjoy sitting with you and perusing through it.

On 8/14/2023 at 2:46 PM, JT2 said:

these are the types of people  you want to nail upside down by their scrotum ..............just say'n .......  of course if you catch'em you can always toss them in the Hog pin and no one will ever find them again.

Well, pigs seldom eat the skull, don't know why, maybe cause they don't like the brains of lesser creatures. I would like to see them upside down though. I imagine they would urinate in their own face. Justice of a sort.

Get the one or ones you like best. For me it would be the quarter because I have the others in a like or better grade. 

If I had to rank them lowest to highest choice it would be

5. 1889 $1 I do not like the marks on the rim

4. 1943 1/2 $  not a huge fan of Walkers due to poor strikes, this one is above average though

3. 1885 $1 

2. The dime nice coin, better strike 

1. the standing quarter

None of these is bad, and I would have no problem owning any of them

It is likely that King Chuck E Cheese Ears will not be on coins and bills until they are minting 2024 examples.

I do not recognise that. I would guess a temple token of some kind. Is it Korean?

On 7/2/2023 at 9:11 PM, Henri Charriere said:

Well!  Having put up with me and the likes of my various alter-egos, for 3-1/2 years, I can certainly appreciate at least part of the source of your discontent.  Not to get your hopes up, relying solely on instinct, I have a feeling something wonderful will happen for you before the year is out. Oh, and do have a pleasant Fourth!

I hope you are right as the last couple months have been one disaster after another up to watching my cattle dog get run over this morning. I am rather worn out and beat down.

I do not see the point, sorry.

I do not care for new formats most of the time as I am absolute sh..it..e with technology

Well to answer your question... Yes , I know why I collect what I do and when it comes right down to it I owe you or any one else no explanation. Okay, now that the is out of my system. I started collecting wheat cents from circulation when I was nine in 1971. Without going into to details that may get me foaming at the mouth It took me years to get my mother's grubby fingers and idiotic influences out of my collection and since that day I have collected what I wanted when and how I wanted.

My collection has kept me sane, driven my mad, cost me every cent I could muster, kept me from suicide no less than twice, and has brought me immense joy.

I have several collecting focuses and I work on whatever one I can afford and find joy in.  I actually hate finishing a series or set. I have not seriously collected for about 7 years due to life situations, but one of my favorite collections for the last 10 years or so is my World War II collection. I have identified over 200 countries or territories that were directly or indirectly involved in the war. I am attempting to collect 4 contemporary coins of each country that minted coins during or just before the war, and a single example of coinage from each that did not mint coins in the war years. The research and hunting brings me much joy.

That is why I collect.

A type set with all key dates is a cool beyond belief concept!

As to your question of 14-D or 31-S, a 31-S would be easier to achieve and the money you save can be spent on harder coins. Either way it is your collection and it has to please you and no one else. I will be impressed either way you go.

I am not sure it s a coin. It maybe a token of one type or another. I am no expert but hope one comes along soon

I like it. I think it has been cleaned once or twice but almost all of them have been in my opinion. It would be a nice addition to any collection 

I have never understood grading such errors, but then there are lots of things that I don't understand.

I do understand getting them authenticated, but a number grade seems counter..., well to the whole thing about collecting major errors.

When one's collecting focus can be summed up as "perfection is so overrated" who would care if it is XF40 or MS66?

unless there is a law that says they must I would doubt they would

Just my opinion...

I would look into sending any coin that I was wanting to keep even if it was less than genuine to ICG. They will slab counterfeits in a slab with a special label. I would then keep it in plain view to remind me that I should not be buying expensive coins that I know little or nothing about.

Again, just my opinion

I am sorry, I collect Eagle back quarters and would not pay more than 64 money for that one. 

First a DISCLAIMER:

I am not big on tones and colors. I also think that strike is part of the grade

There are too many marks on the obverse or me to call it a 66 and the reverse is not sharp enough for me to go to a 65. It is a NICE coin and I would put it in my collection for 64 money 

In a blind test I often come in at least one point below PCGS... but that is just me

Whoa there!

I have no knowledge to answer the question posed so I can only say what I think.  I have only been to two national level shows, the Fun show both times, and neither time did I have the time to peruse the educational exhibits at length.  I hope they do, but expect that they seldom do as there is so much poorly researched and unsubstantiated data in this hobby that it seems unlikely.

As to first respondent, a little bitter, are we? 

I would think so but my question is why would you want to spend all the money to get it graded as there is a very low probability of recouping your costs for the foreseeable future,

Is this not what the plan was when all this third party grading started?

The problem is sustaining standards and service when the bottom line in involved and graders change. Even with written standards that are that are published and known there are still nearly an infinite variations. The human factor would need to be removed from grading and accepting the grade and that is not even close to possible.