Moxie15

I have wanted to respond to @DWLange since he first posted but I have delayed as I do not wish to cause trouble or to disrespect Mr Lange. I doubt the reason he gives for the phenomenon some call 'wood grain' toning. When metals are alloyed they normally are not stirred. Many years ago I worked in a foundry for a while and they would put the metals and carbon of other 'ingredients' in a pot bring it to a desired temp for a certain amount time. I do not see how this would cause lines in the coins when it toned. I think it is caused by some other problem like impurities. I would like to ask if you came by this information from original research?

OK down, dirty, fast and furious, IN the past dies were made from a hub that was pressed into the die steel several times until the devices were brought up to the desired point. Between each pressing the die was annealed and reset into the press. This would allow the chance of the hub and the die to become misaligned slightly causing two or more images. By the late 1990's a new process was being introduced were the hub was pressed into the die ONCE. This eliminated all the traditional types of doubled dies. It did create another phenomenon that is often called doubled die, but this is a different issue. By 2015 I think that all dies were made with the new process. By definition a die struck once cannot be doubled, so the doubling shown on the coin in the OP cannot be a doubled die. Therefore the doubling shown HAS to be caused by a different phenomenon. So, about that deed to your house...

I am not asking how a coin is minted, but how is a die made. When you describe how a die was made in 2015 you will understand why this is not a doubled die

A question to @rocket23 Would you be so kind as to explain to your best ability how a 2015 die is made, and how it could become doubled, I think this will help evereyone understand if the OP shows a doubled die or a machine doubled coin. Thank you

I think most of us, both experts and novices tend to fine it this way... A Conservative grader is that damn fool at the TPG that graded this obvious MS 66 at MS 63. A Liberal grader is the blind insufficiently_thoughtful_person who graded that obvious MS 63 as an MS 66. Most use their opinion as the standard, be it a learned opinion or an ignorant opinion, any thing higher is liberal anything under is conservative.

I like the snake idea (I DO NOT like snakes particularly) but I think the New Hampshire Snake Quarter should be the eastern Timber Rattle snake. They would make one coin for each known snake specimen. I think there are eight known specimen in the state so this one would be rare beyond belief. They are each tagged and monitored every two or three years they are captured by a game warden, checked for health and the electronic tag changed so they can keep track of them. not my dream job for sure.

This confuses me greatly. I am not a great student of dies or the minting process. I have an unstruck cent planchet and I think the rim is fully formed. The marks look like metal fatigue to me, like at least one other poster I think if it was in the field I would say it is die erosion or wear. If the die strikes and forms the top of the rim I see no reason that it is not die wear or erosion. If the die does not strike and form the top of the rim than I think the blank was not properly annealed before the rim was formed and the metal stressed during the upsetting process.

This is what I think, nothing more or less, All toning is a natural reaction of the coin to its environment. All toning is caused by someone putting the coin in a less than ideal environment. This coin has lived in a very rough environment, it looks to have been a bit weakly struck, circulated a while and damaged and countermarked with an 8 punch before it was placed in a high sulfur holder (I think a coin envelope) causing the yellow, orange, and golds. After a time the coin was placed in another environment causing the blues, greens, and blacks. This coin was purposely placed in the above mentioned environments in misguided attempts to better the coin. By the accepted definition the toning is Natural and market acceptable. Again, this is all just what I think from the information provided

I am more in line with @World Colonial I often do not agree with the number on the holder but if I like it at the offered price I buy it. I don't worry if I miss it as at the level I collect there is always another one or a whole other coin that is just as cool that I need.

But would you say the same thing about environmental damage, which in its most basic meaning is just what toning is

Sometimes I wonder if there should be a separate designation for a toned coin. MS, meaning Mint State just doesn't seem to cut it in my mind. The coin was pretty obviously not toned before, during or just after striking. Yes, some coins toned in the bank bags, but that does not seem to be the major cause of most toning seen on coins. Long term storage in less than ideal conditions causes most toning. So technically a coin exhibiting 'album toning' is no longer in the same state as it left the mint, Mint State. I see this as a different situation than bag marks as bag marks reduce the grade of the coin as an MS 68 cannot, by definition have excess bag marks so the coin is reduced in grade. An MS 68 can be heavily toned without being downgraded and many people claim that exceptional color can raise the grade of a coin. So on a cold rainy afternoon when I am not building stalls in my barn I wonder Should toned coins be called something other than mint state.

i hope those who go have a great time. I have fond memories of the times I went.

At best it ius a die chip, but it looks like circulation damage

I think that most people are forgetting an important point or two in much of this discussion. In World War II when you, your father, or grandfather was in Italy or France their government and economy were nonexistent. The German government had no standing outside of their own Reich so the only money worth anything at all was the money of the current occupiers, The British and Americans. In my experience the preppers and doomsday believers are preparing for the fall of the US government. So if the government has collapsed and war has ravaged the cities and towns and you are in Smalltown America with the nearest store is six miles away with mostly bare shelves, no fuel available, it is 10 below, and your kids have not eaten in three days. You place 16 Gold eagles in a bag and walk to the store. After a 2 and half hour trudge through snow and ice how many loafs of bread will your bag of gold buy?

I read an article written by a man, or told by him to a journalist, that was stuck in Serbia during the disaster of a war there. He told how the only things of value were foods, not just any food though. Things like coffee, sugar, chocolate, cheese, and booze. He claimed a pound of coffee could buy you a gun and all the ammo you could possibly carry. Cigarettes were also valuable beyond just about anything. I scoff at the fools who think pre 1982 cents will be of value when the feces hits the air conditioner.

Does it have an obverse?

the last time I purchased from the mint was 1977. I have never been sorry.

This does not surprise me at all. They were purchased near the height of the market in an active economy with an abundance of hype. Fear has the market by the throat and Greed is hiding behind the couch. It will not be until sometime after the big questions of the day are resolved that super high end items like these will be viable.

https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/860931/an-example-of-a-incomplete-clip-planchet-mint-error @Insider the coin is posted in this thread, Fred calls it PMD and Captain Hennaway does too as I recall, along with a couple other members gave some reason before Fred and Capt. spoke up

I think this will help @Insider

<nods>

nice looking coins. There are less expensive ways of preserving coins. There are many affordable holders, You may want to start here https://www.wizardcoinsupply.com/

Franklin Mint products are 'collectible' items looking for a collector base. They are only 'valuable' when you are trying to buy them, they are only worth bullion when you try to sell them.

If it is in the original holder leave it as is.