pigeonman333rd

I bought a coin that looked good in the video but has a ding on the bust in person!

It's enjoyable and cheap much less then my pigeon hobby we started raising good birds in 1995 and paid $4,000 for two pairs from the number one breeder in the nation but they were all infertile birds never raised a single squab, so you can see why I'm hesitant to pay top dollar for top quality rare coins! Coins don't raise you more coins that you can sell to feed your coin hobby. My birds are the worst they have ever been in quality due to lack of sunlight in Coos Bay so it's really put a damper on raising any. I raised 2 last year and in Vermont I raised anywhere from 20-50 birds a year. To be honest with you I would rather raise some kid's!

why does it say wondering?

What your looking at is my rolls of teens p/d/s mint marks not all of them and half full like for rolls when to cases for my cased hoard of teens vf20 plus so I got a full roll of 1917's and a quarter two a half roll of the teens. The second images my page of 1922-d's and 1924d's about a half page each and a page plus 5 1915-d's and a few pages of teens not gradable different grade obverse from reverse but I like an F12-extrafine reverses over any great obverse coin with a G4 reverse I just stick those in penny books rather then roll or case them. Oh and I cherry picked the set I bought for anything over F12 in the teens in the set leaving the G4's and replacing some of them and adding one 1922-d one 1924-d and one 1924-s all G4's. I plan to finish the set all 1920's-1930's except 1931-s in G4 but most of mine are to high of a grade for a penny book. I did leave the 1940's and 1950's in fine to extra-fine detail coins and do plan to replace the 1950's and 1944-d with unc coins and all the 1960's and 1970's with unc coins to start some collector on the cheap like 200 bucks. Keep in mind no 1909's no 1914-d no 1931-s but the rest that I have to spare all full but a friend from college or something I would proffer a trade for something of equal or lesser value being like 200-500 dollar value which is hard to do but I've seen some pretty impressive stuff from those starving college kids they trade stuff for energy drinks and bags of candy absolutely crazy. Wish me Luck!

I got to check my hoard and smarten up guys I was looking for a 1927-d cent in extra fine 40 in one of my hoard of wheat penny boxes and I found a roll labeled 1922-1924 and I found half a page of 1922-d cents and half a page of 1924-d cents minus two slots. Another thing that I expedited out of the hoard and into my set was a quarter roll one page plus five slots worth of 1915-d cents one vf20 conservatively graded extra fine obverse with a very fine or f12 reverse it has full wheat stalks but most were G4 five or six F12's. The thing is I just bought 2 rolls of 1927-d cents for 34.99 free shipping and only got vf20's no au or extra fine coins not realizing I had 10 plus rolls of the same date but only one extra fine roll so I failed at getting the best price per roll which is usually .2 cents a piece one dollar a roll mixed mystery roll 10.00 a roll for teens mixed P/D/S and only extra fine 40 and above 1920's and 1930's. I did find 2 1909's in case boxes to take out of my hoard I paid five bucks a piece for back in the day that are worth $3.00 a piece today ouch. So I got alot of remorse for spending on stuff I will never make my 200 or 300 dollars I paid for all this stuff years ago. I really got alot of 1927-d bags of bags full of them mostly in f12 condition you know you can see full wheat stalks Lincolns hair full but beard has less hair eye is full and bright nose is still present all letters and numbers fully visible low to no corrosion. Here's a pic of what rolls I am sorting out from 1995 when I worked for $5.00 an hour as a kid for my family members to earn the $200.00 to buy out the antique dealer none are unc coins so it will take a lifetime to recover the debt. For example that box cost me 40 hours of work putting in docks dragging bricks and wheeling cement around that's hard labor. So now a day equivalent for construction work is 40.00 per hour so 8 hours times 40 is 320.00 plus five cents a page plus 1 dollar per page plus shipping. This has to happen for me to consider my box to be free. I honestly would rather just suffer the loss and just keep the hoard for retirement. And invest more money into cases plastic ones for unc coins and .5 cent cases with pages for vf20 and above cents no matter the value and the rest put into rolls. Sorry about the bad pictures all I got is the phone till I can afford a new sd card mine got wet in the flood of my room. I'm doing quite well rolling 1910-1919 p/d/s cents in G4's thats what the major portion of 10 rolls that was topping the box in the image were full of at 7 dollars a roll but no key dates darn it. I did get quite a few fines extra fines with full beard hairs and full wheat stalks and very fines which are the cases stacked in the back of the second image behind the teen rolls. The worst part is I have about 1300 of debt in certified ms coins that are scary to me what if some one breaks into the safe ouch. Certified might be fore most but I just do it to have something to show in the registry. I plan to trade and up grade no selling as the Antique man said your young you should be accumulating. The good thing is I'm dealing with my hoarding issues one box at a time the oldest purchases first getting some cased some rerolled and so forth.

Thanks I plan to keep it in a case it's been kept by an old silver collector who polished all her silver so I will look for more polished ones to complete a polished set. I did find a 1943 P and a 1943 s in the roll to put in my book but no 1958-d yet. I know cleaning a coin is a sin in numismatist land however unearthing my 1924's from my hoard of pennies I had to treat one with CLP like I do for all my steel cents kept in rolls if I suspect rust. I have a four year window to complete my taskings on this coin which is to preserve the heavily corroded coin. Every six months I will apply 1 drop of CLP to the obverse because the obverse is heavily corroded from being in the roll. After six months the coin gets put into are sonic cleaner with tonic water with quinine which has all the carbonation removed. This process is improper cleaning however it is non evasive. I will repeat the process over for years time. Here is a picture of one coin receiving its CLP on the left a 1924-d in fine or better corrosion detail it's black with raised corrosion bubbles in the fields but it has three and a half more years to go before it gets it's improper cleaning through sonic treatment. The coin to the right is a 1909 vdb my first 1909 vdb its an improperly cleaned coin with CLP for about 5 years and sonic cleaned once to remove the CLP however this coin was so green I kind of liked it that way but I was going to lose the coin so I cleaned it that's the only time I use this process and these coins are now personal to me because I had to do the work so I don't sell stuff like this I label them improperly cleaned corrosion detail to not confuse people who look at the coin. So what do you guys think bad deal bunch of nonsense or good job?

Oh wow I Love that Idea. Thanks for the heads up EagleRJO! I would like to have my 2000 Canadian commemorative quarters and my 2000 wide AM cents in one of those new cases for safe keeping. Do they sell capsules to? Made from the same material that can be put in a Lincoln cent folder about 19mm in size I think. I would love some 19mm capsules made of acrylic glass fragile but well worth it but I can't find those anywhere!

So lets talk about my cleaned and damaged coins! Some times cleaned or damaged coins are from dealers as free gifts to get you back to buy more heavily hoarded items such as rolls collected in the 1960's and 1970's back when teen wheat pennies were able to be found in change easily like 1940's and 1950's in extra fine forty were able to be hoarded in large quantities in the 1990's. Here's an example of a free coin worth five cent that was given to me recently now I believe it's buffed and polished because the shine. It's a 1944 P war nickel. The second pick is of a roll of nickels I found while looking for g4 cents to fill my penny book because I have a lot of dates in the hoard room. I cherry picked a purchased set for all the very fine-extra fine coins and in exchange threw in some semi key dates like 1922-d,1924s,1924-d you know over hoarded not incredibly rare but scarce amongst change coins. Another thing I found in the hoard was a bag of 2000 on up Canadian Quarters left overs from gambling at the casino in Canada all commemoratives. I'm planning one doing a roll hunt of 450.00 worth of pennies nickels and dimes a small amount compared to guys online that video tape their roll hunts I don't do that because I figure it's bad for business if you plan on marketing what you find. I got to be careful though taking out like a thousand dollars and putting it back into a different account that might bring the tax man to my door thinking I'm getting more income than I actually am because I'm taking out a thousand and putting it into a separate account. Good luck to all in your ventures whether you save your hard earned cash to buy one expensive high end coin or you roll hunt like the Pigeonman God Bless You and I Wish You Good Luck and Safe Travels!

Well that is my problem coin and I have no plan on selling key dates, let the collector find their own key dates, but I believe in selling sets with no key dates consisting of coins you found in change or purchased for cheap to buy or trade for a key dates in any condition! Even the most worn Po1 corrosion detail key date is still a key date.

I do not ever plan to call myself a Numismatist no matter what level of education I receive and mark my word I can and I will get educated, or how high the quality of a coin I own is. I am a world renowned Hoarder of fine junk! God comes first!

Oh I wouldn't say that what about starting up youngsters with rare modern coins in Proof 65 plus! Not to say that you can charge a young Huckel Buck but by cutting up Proof set's one to make proof set's more rare and to get coins to certify, makes for cheap cents, nickels, and dimes you know. For example paying .10 cents a proof nickel or .20 cents a proof dime or .2 cents a proof cent in large quantities to start young collectors is Santa Like when you give them as gifts to children. Let us not forget if we ever want to be free of coin debt we need to keep collectors collecting! I was started in such the same manner from my uncle with my three1943 steel cents that are some of the best condition coins I have ever owned shiny spotless and not recoated. My first 1909 was given to me at 9 years old and my dad bought me my first 1909 vdb for $2.50 which is about a very fine 20 which is probably only worth .35 but that's besides the point. That stuff is all Santa Clause like behavior. I can't even count the amount of 2009 copper satin cent sets I have given youngsters. The point is The Santa Clause of Numismatics is yourself!

Pleased to meet you!

He said he would come down in price to please me.

The guy liked the fact that I was willing to sell one of my folders of semi key dates at blue book value or trade for the coins and pay for the rest he told me im young I should be accumulating!

Hey ana suggest to try to collect most expensive key dates first to start collecting them in highest grades affordable! I used a legitimate source so my question should be is it worth certification or is it ingenuine.?

I can't find my coin camera sd drive but I will!

This was a coin the dealer knew I wanted and because I'm a good customer came with a huge discount no luck selling to the man but for the price more like a gift. I can't tell you what I paid for it that would hurt the price or trade value in my case. I would like to know if it looks like a genuine coin even if it's an altered S that won't hurt my value of the coin so it's not an S it's a p but if its an outright counterfeit my mistake guys! What do you think?

How can I get it to you I'd do it for free to a fellow coin friend!

Etsy

We have had weirdos show up here while the mails is being delivered with me waiting in a chair and try to steal the mail I have taken it out of their hands and then had them try to bum bottles. I wouldn't be surprised if it's a mail scam however I am here for the mail every day I work nights only now two jobs not three much better.

Yes that's true however I do believe the guy I met with today is not the best to hang out around he has more guns than coins and just said yesterday I had a coin today I don't so no bartering thanks but no thanks. I'm mean I carry but who needs what I seen? My guess is if I got to find coin friends it's going to be at a coin show. If I was into poke Mon baseball cards and magic and alot of gun parts I would think I met a good new friend. I wasn't dumb I carried my pistol. I realize I buy low grade coins but so do many other people here we are not rich and craigslist is how you get rid of what you no longer need. I am going back to the antique shop to try to make a trade tomorrow he's got a 1908-s g4 indian head its real but I brought some coins in he says he would be glad to trade for but I think his partners going to shut that deal down I think they are gay but can't swear to it probably just old and friendly I'm horrible at figuring that type of stuff out but I can't pay 100 dollars for it's worth like 20 bucks to me same as any 1909 indian head but the s is more rare but not 100 dollars rare uncertified plus I like the wood grained planchet looks like gold on copper but the indian is missing liberty on the head band. Hey after not spending a whole year I've racked up a 2000 dollar credit card bill but when I pay I always pay more than the minimum. I've been looking at my unc fifties folder and I have spent as high as a dollar a piece on those things in the past and they look way better then say my certified ms grade 1909's but I think one of those certified ones in the pcgs case ms63 is fake because the vdb has no slant in the b even if it is certified and I did pay 83 dollars for it. I would roll hunt more often but the bank only allows so many trips a month to turn in and pick up. The street people here bring in most of the coins to the shops they go begging and people just give them stuff so if I don't get to the shops every other day I miss out like for example 1927-s rolls here are way cheaper than online and mercury dimes in dime bags for 6-10 for a dollar I missed today because I slept in. I paid 6 for 6 yesterday darn it. If it were not for the homeless bringing stuff in to sell or trade for a hot meal and a shower business would not be the same. Dad got Lucky today though 15 bags of hot Cheetos for a barber dime we got the Cheetos for a faded old 1908 p. And we got that coin 6 for 6 bucks so one dollar spent. Work is another place people try to sell their latest coin finds but nothing for me yet. I got offered a 1957 quarter for a buck a few indian heads I mean I offered five bucks for it but I feel that would be a foolish purchase just like my 1982 bronze small date hoard I havent sold a single one but 1927-s and 1926-d cents have been easy to sell some at a dollar for g4's and 4 for very fine with full wheat stocks reverse but it's all just gas money for mom she loves to drive to all the stores an I love her she buys so much fancy coffee and snack food like pizza I spoiled my dinner. I used to have two rolls of 1927-s cents last week but I got a page and a half left due to people calling from Craigs list however I get alot of prank calls saying are you a real seller are you a robot and people making requests over the phone but never calling back when I find the item for them. Ebay for selling is a losers game when all you got is junk but if you got certified stuff it's a great place to sell. I only own a few certified coins but the ones I do have I really like but I paid to much! Each one I paid like $20 over the red book value and my 1909 vdb's their ms64 and ms63 red worth 30 dollars each and I paid 120 for the ms 64 because it was advertised top pop in 2004 and the ms63 I recently bought for 83 and I overpaid by 53 dollars so I see what you mean I got to slow my buying and I have I do the local thing because I feel less guilty then online but some shops and people will play nice while others will red book you on everything. When they red book me I just buy food from them instead it's my weakness chocolate mostly the shops got cafe and chocolate and it's really creamy and good expensive but better than paying red book prices in thrift stores. I need a better hobby I love pigeons but their is not enough light here to produce birds so I started coin collecting where before I was strictly a coin roll hunter. I'm bringing in lights this year to give my birds 16 hours I hope it works so I can raise 20-40 birds a year again right now I get 3 every season and then none all winter which is strange breeding season has been my life since I was 8 years old but now I go to my loft to feed clean and not for much else but that will change when I rig up some lights. I have avoided buying any 1914-d, 1909-s and 1909 svdb cents due to not really being able to spot a fake however alot of them look fake online when compared to pcgs coin facts picture so I watch but just don't bid. I did however buy a 1909-svdb for 26 dollars because it looked real but doubtful at that price. Advertised as real but I just want to put it in a unc set till I can have a house collect the rent and pay for a real one. I have had offers on my 2009 copper satin cents but for junk clad Dollars highly unlikely worth anything but a dollar all Eisenhower ones no Morgans or trade dollars but trade dollars according to the red book could be counterfeit anyway so I avoid those at the shops. Things have changed since 2017 everyone is selling gold Indian and Mexican folks just pull up in the yard and try to sell you something now. My guess all 14k fake. I know I said ebay is bad to sell junk but I found 6 1922-d cents for 40 bucks I love ebay for that. My favorite part is giving outstanding reviews. I'm afraid Chef Heidi won't let anybody check out her coins yet she has attachment to great Grand Daddy's hoard but I will keep studying in case she comes around. I get excited any time I open a roll or get a new semi key date cull lot or find 4 for a dollar deals. I work with Heidi later tonight I wonder if she's a member here yet or if she bought the red book to solve her own hoarding problem. I like her baking and seafood dishes but her gravy has to much pepper. My next coin roll hunt is a mystery because the bank said no more coins till I start using their cards but I can't see using that account being very wise its where I dump my change when I'm done with it I wonder how much is really in their I have never spent out of the local bank just dump change since 2017 I hope the other credit union doesn't expect me to declare that money when I take my loan I forgot it even existed. The bank said they new about my future loan and if I got issued a card and just bought gas on it they would compete for a better interest rate. I wonder how they knew I applied for a loan. I don't know how I did this but I filled a folder of 1909-1974 pds and spent 401 dollars on semi key dates that's to much I think. I still don't have 1909svdb 1909 s and 1914-d but I got it all full except 3 dates today. Any guess as to what one set complete sells for before I pay 420 for an 1909 svdb 100 for a 1909s and 150 for a 1914-d cent through the shops dealer? No worries Sandon I'm coin facting all my purchases before I purchase and getting cull key dates at bargain prices except the future three with all the money I've spent at the shop I expect extra fine or very fine for my money.

Keep in mind the image could be real and the add describes a real coin even mentions the mintage but If I receive a copy I will let that reflect in my review with picture of questionable authenticity buyer beware.

I can show you the obverse I don't think it's slabbed!

My thoughts exactly! One more paperweight! I wish I would have been more clear.

So I went shop hopping again today and found a lapis lazuli and agate crystal geode for 10 bucks a doves egg sphere stone for 16 bucks and 6 silver dimes plus 2 1909 cents in g4 condition on the cents very fine on 5 dimes and one1918 ag3 for 16 bucks. Dad found a silver 1964 twenty five cent Canadian proof quarter and silver dollar proof for 20 bucks and a 1868 five cent piece and two 1912 no cents v nickels for 10 bucks. So not much to report other than I think I spent to much on my 11 1924-d cents and my 1922-d cents with a few 1922 no D's in the mix but they would have to be certified I don't see a D but they could be faint D's which makes them value less. If I get enough d's to fill books I will be happy the no D has no place in the coin book I'm filling. Oh and I made a mistake with one of the street dealers I thought I was buying 6 buffalo nickels for 6 bucks but it ended up one 1937 s buffalo nickel and three 1943 s and two 1944-s nickels. Alot of tag shops selling coins now because we asked for them, thrift stores are dealing with the dealers and selling Morgans and dimes and Indian heads mostly but they mark them up 1 dollar above red book so I guess it's back to the streets and a few antique dealers that get better deals then the street vendors. My venture tomorrow is to meet with a friend made on craigslist to try to come to a deal but fat chance I am not good at dealing with a con man but I think he is a good guy but how we met was my add for 1982 small date cents and I don't think he's a con man really it's just some of the things he says he can get I have my fear that they are not genuine but I will do my homework before spending any money! If I'm right and this guys a con man it will show in his product but I got to give him the benefit of the doubt. He says he can sell wheat pennies in extra fine 45 like their going out of style and unc coins but we will see if he takes my offer on one of his items for 100 of mine plus 400 bucks. If I'm wrong then I'm out 500 bucks but if I'm right I get the chance to return a piece of national treasure. I hope you are all doing well and have a Good Night NGC Fellows!