pigeonman333rd

Here's my my 1945's I got for 2.50 p/d/s bronze brass and copper for my set when I get the cases.

I bought it already I will spend a little more for the prestige of the Dansco leather bound luxury version. The proofs are rare in some years so a rare for every space will be fun.

I have a dansco folder I need inserts for the plan is to do wheat cent UNC coins only trying to get a rare or variety in every year like a bie mark error in a high mintage year or a filled date or a double die cent to have a rare cent for every space. I do have 1945 one in copper one in bronze one in brass red, red brown and yellow. With your taste in coins sir I'm sure your set will be breathtaking! Keep up the good work.

Show me your 1908-s Indian head cent! I would love to stare at the gem. I can't afford one my self but my 1909 matte finish proof gives me jollys and so does my Indian head.

So since my bank is befuddling over whether of not they can spare 450.00 in change for a week for me to roll hunt I bought 2 rolls of cull semi key dates but I haven't seen how bad they are yet they haven't came yet if they are of no use I will roll them in the cull roll if they have the date I will start cherry picking my set again the add said 1 1915=d 6 1912-d 6 1909 one 1931 clear dates but I'm hoping for a few more I would be pleased with 25 clear dates out of 100 coins for 50 dollars that's two bucks a piece a little high but 1909's are expensive retail 5 dollars g4 3 dollars red book but try to get one for three dollars! The stores have them but vg's 7-10 dollars, f12 or better 20 dollars and realistically red book says 30 dollars uncirculated coins. I don't know where the red book gets their averages from but I've never been able to buy a 1909 vdb unc coin for less than 65-70 dollars ms 60-ms63 and ms 64 120 dollars years ago which are now on amazon for 650 dollars last time I checked all ana certified nice coins neon yellow to red in color but lack luster as far as reflective bull luster. The brightness of a cleaned coin but no better. The hardest part will be roll hunting and bartering for the 1930's g4's I want to pay .5 cents a piece for each one I don't have to not increase the price of the set. If they give me a good coin for .5 cents then I will case it and try again.

I meant to say I bought the g4 Indians 6 for 6 dollars. But that has changed since I bought the six the guy has gotten greedy.

You make a good point but impulse spending at bargain prices is how you hoard and high quality coins is how you collect that is what I do to my hoard are either in rolls or in books but my collection of found in change, quality coins, and key dates are in one folder not huge but steadily growing. I think I'm going to let a few people search my 4 four a dollar bin a few more times with a limit of one dollar spent on four coins with a 1% rebate of one cent of my choosing with a case for the last few times. Next I will dismantle it to use the fine coins for another set. Currently their is only 126 cents with cases fine or better in their but to roll hunt I will need those cases as mine are running low. I only let kids search the for for 1.00 bin and usually the coin I give them I paid .29 cents for is usually worth more then a dollar to see that they got their moneys worth. I go by a list of semi precious mintages when I coin roll hunt and case anything f12 or better. If the coin is not a semi precious date or mintage say under 20 million it goes in a roll for example 1940's and 1950's cents. I need to hunt more dimes and nickels but the bank will do a box at a time for those if they have them available. They dealers here pay .25 cents per silver dime unbelievable price when they retail them at 3 dollars a piece or 6 for 6 dollars which changed when I bought all of them one day. I do try to talk to people before they go into shops and ask if they are selling anything but most people think you mean weed and I always have to clarify coins silver gold or paper money. I have yet to get caught by the shop owners and only had one buy or sell moment a 1907 g4 indian head cent I bought a few coins for 7 dollars and sold one g4 for 5 dollars because the shop sells them for 6. I'm trying to sell 1910-1919 p sets without 1915 for 9 dollars but no buyers. I did however buy a 1868 two cent piece with that five dollar the price was 6 dollars at the shop to keep business good so no profit. I figure its worth the two dollars I actually spent on it. I gave it to dad he collects them all but only has one high grade extra fine 1870 and I can't remember what motto it is I spent 80.00 dollars on it for a fathers day gift. I think I paid double the abp on that coin but I knew he wanted one.

10 for 1922-d,20 for 1924-d,40 for 1931-s, and 40 for 1983 double die.

I have never had problems trading key dates for better condition coins in quantity. I just increased my 2009 copper cent hoard for a 1922-d cull and a 1924-d cull increase of 200 coins and I gave them a page of 1950-s and 1940-s bag marked uncirculated coins that fell out of the roll to keep them happy. So 23.00+45.00 retail plus 1.00X20 cases plus 1.00 per page plus equals $70 for 200 coins so .35 cents a coin much better than 1.68 per coin like I paid for 200 coins recently. I never plan to sell my copper satin cents just hoard at 1000 i'm shy of that now but to me 1000 is plenty. I like them because they are easiest to start young collectors that show an interest in pennies and have no money. I have a .25 box for them to rummage thru with 1950's-1940's wheat cents and a few cull indian's with faint dates but literally no more then 30.00 value for the box. I only put cull clear dates in sets but I have just started my first set which should retail with no key date for 150.00 but to the right buyer not ebay. I am missing most of the thirties waiting on coin roll hunting but I refuse to put f12 plus coins other then 1940's and 1950's those have to be extra fine like the ones in change and only unc coins 1959-1974 p/d/s. I add up the price I paid for anything I paid for and increase 150%. The copper satin cents retail at 5.95 free shipping so $10 abp for proof 65 is inaccurate and I aim for half the buying price. However 1.68 is closer to 1/4 the buying price and I only buy set's of 8 not individual coins. Look at it this way if they keep cutting proof sets the abp will go up and as long as I never sell coins will be limited but obtainable 100 years from now. I never plan to buy an ms70 or proof 70 if it's expensive but thru coin roll hunting I may find one. I do collect the cull copper satin cents in change I have one page of circulated proof cents but no complete set among the culls. I have six with the building on the back and 14 Lincoln reading reverse but if some one offered me 10 to buy one of those I would take it and buy more rolls from local dealer of semi key date cull coins with the date for like 8-25 dollars but no more then that. The dealer gets mad at me when I buy individual key dates but refuse to buy bag marked unc 1940's and 1950's coins for 100 dollars a roll. In my opinion 100 dollars a roll is highway robbery but to entertain him I bought on 1939-s roll for 40.00 dollars a rip off I know all extra fine except one coin a fine obverse and g reverse I used in my set. When I cherry picked the set I bought I kept the 1938-s and 1939-s they look au but I label them fine with luster. Now the problem is finding culls at like.25 cents a piece for semi key dates like 1912-d, 1915d,the 1920's and 1930's all in clear date culls all the coins I have in those dates are to good to sell. My guess is a quarter here a quarter their will drive my asking price for this set up. I am a hoarder not a numismatist I need to go to school for that but I'm far from that college starts again in August I'm done with the prerequisites but I have to apply for the culinary institute. This process will take 3 years 2 at the institute and one on externship. Then it's off to electrician apprenticeship and that's two years plus 1 year externship so that's six years then it's time to go to six month ana program if it still exists. Highly unlikely will I ever rank among the true coin collectors. I'm attached to every rare coin I find in change and I found 2 1983 double dies,2 1931S cents, and 2 1922's faint coins. I wouldn't pay more then 40.00 a piece for any of those dates.

Long day today worked 5pm-11:30pm then from12:30am-7:30am then from 9-11am then from 5pm-11:15pm and I'm off now no rolls to hunt yet still waiting on the bank. I hope you are all enjoying the coins that you have I carry my fake 1856 flying eagle brass medal and my 1908-s indian head cent everywhere with me now till I get used to owning a 1908-s I'm obsessed with it. Good Luck out their!

Well my question got answered ms66 can have a deep scratch but in the end it has purpose.

Today was a Great day for the Pigeonman333rd Hoarder extraordinaire! I started a new young collector collecting and I wish her and her family well Thank God and Prays Jesus Christ Amen.

Good strike is the hardest part not having one in hand but that's why I got my matte proof cent. I tend to down grade when near f12 and reverse wheat stalks slightly blend i go vg even if the obverse looks real nice but im a reverse of the wheat cent critic I like full wheat stalks on a wheat penny and full liberty on an Indian head. Ive never graded Washington quarters I just try to get silver ones five for 23.45 price of silver and sometimes cheaper if they are faint or worn

Well yes I think we all make mistakes but I think with a little time I will grow fond of its full luster. It is a great tool to guess the grade of some of those 1982's. Oh and by the way I said I had 4000 copper satins I was wrong closer to 1000 I new I got 16 rolls plus 8 packs of what I thought were 25 packs of 8 coins but it was 8 packs of 10 coins and 8 of the 16 rolls were different dates not satins but I have no idea where they are or if they are some of the coins in one of my boxes. I now have 700 something copper satin cents. I just guessed It was 4000 but I was wrong sorry. I have 400 in the book and 200 in packs plus two more packs some where man I got to get organized I have coins all over the place I brought my coin chest from the garage in and went all if it's F12 or better in the teens it gets a case then I thought if it has a g obverse but full wheat stalks I should case those to and Ive got like 100 cases left out of 500 so I got to slow it down but with two jobs coins are my play time you know. The thing that's been eating at me is my 1930's coins are like f12-extra fine but they won't be forever if I don't get them into cases soon. I'm working on stopping my buying and conserving what I got because the garage is no place for coins some of these rolls got spots thanks to the garage. Do you still use your ms66's to figure out Washington quarters grade when trying to decipher ms65 to ms66. When I have trouble deciphering past ms 64 using the red book I divert to using the Sheldon scale print off from wikipedia. I also have trouble deciphering ef40 from au55 or au55 from ms60 but when I think ms60 I think red. I do believe that the best way to buy a coin is when it's in your hand. What I love about this coin is that if my 1982 bronze small dates don't have the luster of the 1944 ms66 I wont send it in for grading.

I found my receipt for my copper satin cents while cleaning and I thought I bought 4000 coins I was wrong sorry for lying. The number was 400, the packs I bought was 8 packs of 10 sets or 640 coins which family only got 6 packs so that's 480 coins. My guess is I was so excited to have large quantities that I thought it was 4000 I was wrong and I apologize. I recently bought 200 and have no intention of selling just hoarding and starting a new collector or two. My new estimate of how many is here is 400+200+80+80= 760 coins far less than 4000.The total amount I have had in my life and not at one time is 1240. Currently only 760 coins and growing as long as I can get a good deal the latest 200 cost me 1.67 a piece.

Congratulations Penny Lady obtaining an 1856 Flying Eagle Cent is Truly a Lifetime Achievement. Thanks for all the pictures of the show.

I still like the coin i wanted Ms 66 for comparison to my Ms 64 without paying a lot that's why I picked the highest mintage.Thanks for your opinion it is always appreciated.I love my 1908-s Indian head and keep it with my fake 1856 flying eagle brass cent they are both nice in my opinion.

I like my mint state 64 1909 vdb better but looking at the video of the 1944 I didn't think so. I thought that coin had wear but I still like it better maybe its all nostalgia!

I here that I don"t want to get a rise out of anyone I just got what I was asking for an explanation. I don't fear keeping any coin that's what coin hoarding is all about i just wanted the high mintage coin in the best quality I can afford and I got that. Thank you for all your help I might aim higher next time as long as the price is right! I got to get all the key dates like that to have a hoard I can be proud of within reason right now I make very little money tomorrow maybe not so.

I thought it was cheap I paid 38 for it oh well next coin.

A pigeonman makes a deal and he suffers the consequences if he's wrong!

Oh come on guys this coin makes Lincoln look like he has a butt chin that scratch is so deep I do wonder if a grading company would grade some of my dinged shiny field coins high now. I have a few that I cherish for their reflective fields! My guess is with age say 40 years this coin will patina green at the tip of the beard and he will have a Go T. A little corrosion and I would love this coin! I know going to the retailer insures you get what you want and for 150% above retail which is fair we are not alone buying coins from the shops but rarely do you spot a certified coin. To get certified coins you got to deal with the Pawn shops and they go 500% above retail but give 50% blue book value for goods they buy like .2 cents a piece for all wheat cents no matter the mintage or rarity. Customer service is what I like and I get that with the sellers I save online however the guys that label the sale with my full name and for you gets old! I deselect those sellers from my favorite sellers list but I never complain or give bad reviews.to them It would be nice if they just messaged me and besides I have never made it in time to buy their deal I always get beat to the punch. Can anybody see the deep ding or scratch?

Best pictures I could take with my phone my camera needs an sd card.

I'm not going to return a cheap coin Good to know that MS 66 is not a high grade coin it makes me feel better about some of my unc coins I worried about not being gradable due to hair line scratches only visible under the coin camera. I don't want to show the coin because couldn't NGC downgrade the coin or make the certification invalid due to the ding I mean it is a major dent in the chin? I don't have a good camera right now. I feel a deals a deal you know you get what you give! Thank you for your help! NGC must have seen it the way I did it doesn't detract from the eye clean appearance of the coin because the dent is on the bust so it's not visible to the naked eye except under magnification. I however would have downgraded it to genuine unc details with dent written on the case. Or unc details genuine not gradable.

I don't like this coin I have pages of better ones with a different mint mark however it was cheap so no returns as it will be easy to trade for the price and grade.