powermad5000

On 4/15/2024 at 8:19 AM, GoldFinger1969 said:

So the spike UP has held ?

Prices have come down a little bit but for the most part, yes.

On 4/14/2024 at 10:38 PM, Halbrook Family said:

Just wondering. What grade range do you like to keep your Franklin's in?

I am at about 83% of making the full set of MS 64 FBL splattered with some MS 65 FBL's. If I get back anything less than MS 64 FBL, I will upgrade it. Some day I will complete this set. Where I am at right now, I built the whole thing from raw coins, but the empty slots are getting really hard to fill in the grade I want so I might just have to bite the bullet and complete the rest of the set with ones already slabbed.

An XF obverse. I didn't take a pic of the reverse as it graded low to me. Just saying why I don't think the OP's is high AU.

On 4/14/2024 at 6:27 PM, Robertdpg said:

Now stop trying to tell me that you just don't know how damage could happen at the mint.

Very well then. How about you submit this coin to NGC as a mint error and get back to us on this thread with the results. I want to see a picture of it in the slab with the submission number. By the way, if the label says Damaged, it means it happened after it left the mint. I'll wait...

On 4/14/2024 at 6:37 PM, Robertdpg said:

But for some one to say they can't understand how damage could happen at the mint needs to look a known errors from catastrophic dioe failure, caped coins, split dies and many more.

If it happens at the mint, it is not damage per se. It is an error. Capped coins are not damage. Nor are struck throughs, grease filled dies, off center strikes, rotated dies, broadstrikes, brockages...none of those things are damage. A coin struck with cracked dies is also not damage. It is a coin struck with a die that has cracks, not a damaged coin. I think you are confusing coins with physical damage done to them after they left the mint with coins that have an issue during striking.

Do you consider your quarter with a cud in the other thread an error or a damaged coin?

In my humble opinion, I would put this coin at AU 50 being the obverse clasp has no detail and the hair of Liberty is more worn to that level and I would go with the obverse as the overriding factor. 

What does the ANACS label say as far as grade?

As far as cleaning goes, many of these half dollars were cleaned and I really couldn't tell if yours was unless I had it in hand to tilt it to the light at different angles to see if any hairlines appear. Unless it was harshly cleaned, it is very difficult to tell if it is from just a single photo.

If you were hellbent on cracking it out and it came back as AU Details, would it be worth it? I might just leave it as is if the current label doesn't say that.

On 4/14/2024 at 2:59 PM, David Otto said:

@powermad5000 that's why I'm here to post and learn, I guess I should be happy its allowed in my registry set and adds 800+ points and even more grateful I have one period, I think I will leave well enough alone thanks for your advice

With as much experience I do have, I am still learning. There is so much to know in this hobby I think I will get to the end of my time and still not know everything. I would have made the list in Variety Plus for VAM 14.1, 14.1A, 14.10, 14.11, 14.12, etc. That is why I didn't see it at first. I had to keep scrolling to get to it. I guess I organize differently than others. LOL!

While I am not a registry participant, I am glad you are still able to put this coin into yours. I agree. There are just so many VAMS out there and I have very few of the total of them by comparison. I don't think it is a very populous VAM so congrats on having one.

Yeah, I mean you could cross it over, but as a $$ thing I don't see why. I think at the point of when this coin might eventually be sold (I speak this way because I will go to the grave and someone else is going to do something with my coins) I don't think the crossover would help it add any value, and I don't see it changing anything except one word on the label. Well, maybe two since NGC calls it something different. And it wouldn't change the points it would get in the registry. So that's why I say to just leave it as is.

Well, it seems you have already identified this coin correctly. Here is a link to it on Numista which has the weight, diameter, and thickness. There is a variety in the series for large lion and small lion but I don't see a designation for a difference in the lion for the year of your coin but if there is yours is the small lion. As for which mint it was made at, I am not sure as I don't see a mintmark or small dot on it. According to Numista, this coin in AU is listed for $8. In my humble opinion, your coin exhibits some very light circulation wear so I would put it at that grade level and approximate value.

https://en.numista.com/catalogue/pieces7178.html

It is nearly impossible to tell if a coin is counterfeit from just a photo unless it is a very poor counterfeit with missing or altered details. Outside of that, it takes the coin being in hand to check weights, diameter, thickness, and if necessary tests to confirm its metal composition. I hope what I have provided you with the Numista link helps in your checking of these facts to determine its authenticity. I would guess you have less to worry about as this is not a typical target of counterfeiters although in these days you never know what someone will do next.

I hope this helps.

On 4/14/2024 at 2:12 PM, David Otto said:

@powermad5000 when I check the variety plus list I see vam 14.11 listed

My bad. It is not in order, at least not the way I would put it. And they are calling it Eye Spikes not Wild Eye which is probably why my eye didn't pick it up right away. Either way good sir, I still wouldn't bother with trying to cross this over just so the paper label says DETAILS on it. I just don't think it is worth spending the $$. It is your coin, however, and you can do what you like to do with it.

I could be wrong but if it is not listed on their Variety Plus page it is a variety they don't recognize. It might be in the registry set for those who have PCGS ones, but as far as NGC grading, they don't recognize every VAM just as they don't recognize every different variety on other series of coins. Someone can correct me if I am wrong.

I don't see any point in trying to cross this coin over to an NGC slab. In NGC's Variety Plus, they only list VAM 14.1 and 14.1A. It seems they don't recognize VAM 14.11 or it would be listed. That said, if you crossed this coin over, it would lose its current VAM designation.

It has a really big rim ding that any grader would knock this coin down to a details grade without a straight numerical grade. As a collector of these, I have to say that rim ding would have caused me to pass by if it were a raw coin, regardless of the VAM designation. I also agree with @Coinbuf it also appears to have had a harsh cleaning. I think it has too many things going against it for you to spend any more extra money on plastic and a paper label.

The arrow in your photo is pointing at the small set of steps on the right side of Monticello. I also see the die chip between the building and the F of FS. Could you elaborate a little on what I am supposed to be focusing on?

I think what you are seeing are linear plating blisters. If I am wrong, the others will surely correct me. I also see a plating bubble under the Y in LIBERTY. 

I have seen many of these copper plated zinc cents of this era and especially the 90's with these linear plating blisters that can be in many different directions and found in differing areas on the coin, some short, some spanning across the entire coin from rim to rim.

On 4/13/2024 at 9:40 PM, Youngmoola said:

All I know is it weighs 3.1 n it's on a copper planchet

Why do I see some of the silver look of the zinc showing through, especially on the rim?

On 4/13/2024 at 10:00 PM, Youngmoola said:

Ok let's talk about my red seal 1928 d large date note..came today

I have informed you before about posting about paper money in this forum.

On 4/13/2024 at 9:56 PM, Youngmoola said:

SOON IT COME BACK FROM GETTING GRADED TIL DEN ITS NOTHING TO TALK ABOUT

Great. I will wait until you return to this thread with a pic of the coin in the holder.

On 4/14/2024 at 12:25 AM, GoldFinger1969 said:

Do you have some hard numbers for certain Morgans round-tripping on price ?

The one in this thread. As a matter of fact, all of the 1921 Morgans. Pre pandemic a 1921 (P) used to go for around $25-30 for an MS 62-63. Currently that price has doubled. And get into higher grades and sometimes it goes exponentially up.

1881 S is another one. You used to be able to get an MS 65 for about $175-$200 pre pandemic. I have seen auctions for one of these go as high as $400 in MS 65.

It's across a lot of the series. And it is not just lowball Morgans. Even some of the higher dollar specimens have gone up by thousands at the gavel.

Here's another. Try this. Go to the NGC Price Guide for Morgans and find 1883 CC. Click on the MS 63 Price. There are two spikes in it happening after the pandemic began. You can click on many others and see the same trends.

On 4/13/2024 at 5:48 PM, Robertdpg said:

It amazes me how people who clame to know so much about the coin minting process could not even consider that such a failure could happen. 

That die is slamming shut at hundreds of tons of pressure and probably at once a second. You don't think a little peace of metal would not get torn all to peaces? 

I tell you what I dare you to stick your finger in it. I bet it will get stamped more than multiple times before you get it out.

A little peace of copper or other mixed metals would fair no better. It not that it doesn't happen the mints just have good quality control. They will take almost all of them out but they don't get them all.

I shall maintain after collecting and studying coins for 45+ years, that I will stick to what I know. Like you said, we will agree to disagree. Good luck to you sir!

On 4/13/2024 at 5:39 PM, Robertdpg said:

Looks like they are taking a lot of fun out of it running first strikes

These "First Strikes" and others with signed labels and early releases and even one label numbered with 239 from the last coin struck, are all just marketing gimmicks that turned me off completely from collecting anything with these kinds of designations. It basically makes it near impossible for anyone to assemble a complete set if there are so many "labels" to collect and then to throw actual numbered examples into the mix just destroys any collecting commonalities. It also inflates prices for these pieces which in the end are merely bullion.

On 4/13/2024 at 3:39 PM, Rob’s Coins said:

So is it a penny?

Uh oh! I think we are at the point of waking up @Henri Charriere on the difference in nomenclature between penny and cent! 

Thank you for the additional photos. I think they confirm that the discolored dime is an acid reduced coin. The acid attacks the metal evenly so acid reduced coins will likely still have their edge reeding albeit weaker reeding than when the coin was initially struck.

Depending on how the coin was laying and how long it sat in the acid can cause that spotty look. This coin probably didn't sit in the acid bath as long as some of the others we have seen here where the clad layer is completely missing on both sides and the reeding is almost nonexistent.

On 4/13/2024 at 3:19 AM, Robertdpg said:

Explain why the lettering on the back is not as pronounced as the rest

If you look at a lot of Lincoln Wheat Cents, you will notice many with "weak" lettering on the reverse on the opposite side of Lincoln's bust. It is an issue with the design of the cent and the amount of metal from the coin being struck that gets pushed into the die to form the bust of Lincoln on the obverse left less metal to flow into the design of the reverse die for the lettering to strike up fully. In laymen's terms, there is only so much metal to go around. You will see many Lincoln Wheat cents across all of the years they were made with weak lettering on the reverses. This effect was so pronounced in 1922 that you will see Lincoln Wheats graded with Strong Reverse and Weak Reverse on the labels in the slabs.

This is not an error, but rather an issue the Mint had with the relief of the design.

On 4/13/2024 at 8:21 AM, J P M said:

Not just Morgans, I think all the coins have gone to high, I go to the auctions all the time and people bid goofy on things. That drives the prices up, but the value is most of the time well below the hammer.

I do agree. But as I have a diverse collection, on series that have lesser interest than Morgans such as some dimes and Franklin Halves for instance, when looking to fill slots with coins that are more populous in numbers and easier to obtain, I have found that I am still able to find and obtain some of these coins at undervalued prices.

I'm sorry, but I see heavy damage on this coin. It is possible it was a parking lot find at some point. Nothing in the Mint process would produce a coin that looks like this.

Hello and welcome!

I think you may have a "combination" coin. The reverse has deep abrasions that would be in conjunction with a dryer coin, and the rim has the indications of a spooned coin. I guess it would be possible for someone to rescue a dryer coin and decide it is now not "good" anymore so to try to make something else out of it.

Hello and welcome to the forum!

I think your coin may be acid reduced, but if you could, would you mind posting it next to any regular cash register change circulation dime? Also maybe put the normal dime under yours and take a picture of that too, so we can see if there is a noticeable difference in size?

On 4/12/2024 at 7:14 PM, VKurtB said:

Wow! When did MS63 1921 Morgans go THIS high? Last I looked they were $25ish.

There was a craze created by the pandemic and bored people on lockdown getting into coins. They started buying things up and paying more than price guide prices especially for Morgans. It is starting to come back down a bit, but I don't think we will ever see Morgans especially go back to pre-pandemic levels.