powermad5000

The Lord was trying to tell you that you need to repent!

Hello and welcome to the forum! I simply cannot provide comment on your coin based on the uncropped and too blurry photos. I don't want to jump on the S bandwagon when it could be a filled D from a broken post. The photos are too far away and too blurry for me to be able to tell.

No need to apologize. Questions from the simplistic to the complex need answers as they are questions. One thing I recommend to you is to get a copy of the book titled ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins, 7th Edition. This book covers most series with photos of each typical grade in the Sheldon Scale (MS 60, AU 50, XF 45, XF 40, etc.). This can help when you are undecided about a specific coin. What cannot be replaced in my opinion, however, is looking at TONS of coins already graded. This takes time. And I agree with @The Neophyte Numismatist that you need to become familiar with the nuances of each specific series of coin to be able to recognize specimens weakly struck which is different from wear and what pieces that are sharply struck and are gem BU. One thing I have used over the years to help me is to compare the coin I am wondering what the grade is to either a known gem BU or a Proof if that is all that there is to go on. Granted proofs are produced differently and should have superior details, but they can be used to refer to the image on the coin and what it is supposed to look like. Sometimes on that comparison it becomes evident the coin in question is a much lower grade than initially thought. I also don't refer to luster in and of itself when determining grade. While high grade coins usually have nice white color on silver coins, I have also seen some Morgans and some Mercury Dimes and some Franklin Halves with heavy blue or black toning that have amazing grades. Grade to me is about the original surface, how pristine and mark and scratch free it is for the MS grades. Once a coin has wear, to me it becomes a little easier to determine grade when observing the typical spots of wear on the highest points of the design. Hopefully this answer helps some.

I agree with both of these statements. Monticello almost seems like some of it got chewed off. On the first one, it is MAD, but just be aware it is not misaligned enough to grade as an error. NGC won't classify a coin as MAD unless it is far enough off that parts of the design are missing or incomplete such as half of some lettering or missing lettering or date numbers. I like it though!

The additional pics were helpful. I don't think I need to elaborate more as the reply from @Sandon covers much more than I would have delved into. Also I noted, the back of the slab looks like it is covered with some ick. It would probably be good to clean that off.

I would contact the seller directly and explain the situation and inquire about the status of the item and make it known you are willing to buy.

I wonder if the seller blocked you for the "trouble" on his end having to cancel the order. Some people would rather block than make a sale. I just signed out of there and checked an non numismatic order I made on Sunday. My address is ok. I wonder exactly how that happened. I know to change it yourself you have to go through many different tabs and pages just to get there. I'd be demanding an answer from their customer service. Sorry to hear this happened to you. Especially if you lose a coin because of it. I know how that feels just from getting outbid. I think it would feel even worse over some mechanical/computer error.

Hello and welcome!!! As I have submitted many error coins to NGC, they will accept and slab a no date coin in the case if it is a mint error. A non error coin with no date will not get graded. I submitted a Lincoln Wheat cent struck through a capped die and the obverse was basically obliterated completely. Even Abe was basically mush. I have included a photo of this slab in my reply. Since I filled in and sent in paperwork done by hand, I did what NGC uses for errors missing one or two digits of a date. I entered the date as 19XX as all Lincoln Wheat cents start with 19. Seeing as you are doing this in an online fillable form, you could try something similar as far as the date goes or try all X's. You could also if you know what type the coin is, just select any year from the series. The graders will know what to do with it. This question should be presented in the Ask/NGC section of the forum and you will get a better answer directly from customer service.

Hello and welcome to the forum! It depends on how important the original packaging is to you. If you absolutely must have it in the original packaging, you should wait to buy one with that packaging. If it is not important to you, not knowing what happened to it and that the coin "raw" could potentially be counterfeit, you would be better off to buy one already graded. Another thing to keep in mind while talking about counterfeits, even if the coin has original packaging, being you are new at this, I would make sure you buy it from a reputable seller such as APMEX who guarantee the coin is genuine and who will have checked that the original packaging has not been tampered with. One other thing to note, once a coin has been removed from its original packaging, it has been exposed to the environment and also possible future issues from being handled raw. If it were me, I would want to get a coin such as this in original packaging from a well known reputable seller that has a guarantee that all the coins they sell are authentic. Joe Blow on eBay might have sold lots of coins, but might not be a well known reputable seller with a guarantee of authenticity for every coin he sells.

Genuine. Normal circulation cent. Large date. 6,012,979,368 were made. Extremely common.

While mintage number plays a primary role in rarity (the less made the harder it is to find), in my opinion it depends on the type, and also the grade in that type. Modern issues will mostly grade very high, making high grade not a factor in rarity. That is where mintage number plays its role. On older coins such as Morgans, mintage number plays only part of a role. Take an 1884 S Morgan for example. For the series, it has a somewhat high mintage number in the series at 3,200,000. Being they were all released for circulation, there are tons of circulated examples, but the coin becomes increasingly rare in correlation to grade. An AU 55 lists for $525. AU 58 for $2,200. And MS 60 for $9,000 with each next higher grade becoming commensurately more expensive due to the lower amount of them at each higher grade level. Going further back to early coppers, survivability plays more of a role. There are some types that had significant mintage numbers per se, but the survivability of some makes them rare when there are some with less than 100 known survivors. I don't think demand necessarily correlates to rarity as much as it does to market value. If there is a coin with 100,000 made, but for whatever reason is insanely popular with people to the point where they hoard them, sure they become hard to get, and sure they become more expensive, but their mintage number remains. To me, true rarity exists where there is only one or two or maybe 5 of a particular coin. If there is only one, that means only one collector can have it. Take an 1885 Trade Dollar Proof as an example. Only 5 were made. It is so difficult to get most collectors call it uncollectable because they will never get a chance to own one. Or a 1795 Jefferson Head Lettered Edge Large Cent. Only 3 are known. With that few known, grade is not the factor. It is nearly impossible to obtain one. That to me is what makes something truly rare. Something with so few you will pretty much only get to dream about it.

Hello and welcome to the forum! When posting a question about a specific coin, please be sure to lead with a photo of the obverse and a photo of the reverse, the entire coin, fully cropped. There may be things we need to see that tie in to your question. While I agree with @RWB regarding the floating leaves, I do think the filled O happened from a die chip. I would like to see the full photos of the coin to be able to say confidently however.

Seeing as there is a break in the actual lower nostril, I think this is a VAM 14.5 Open Nostril. I'll let the others chime in as well.

Before either confirming or denying this question or claim, I would like to see full photos of both sides of the coin.

It lost some weight, but it still needs a tummy tuck. Or Sonobello.

Hello and welcome to the forum! To start, you need to crop your photos much better than this. You images are mostly background and least coin. It makes it hard for us with old eyes to see what you have. I used my phone to take a pic of your top pic and all three are large date. The "unicorn" you are referring to is the 1982 D small date bronze transitional, of which only two have been found. It would weigh between 3.05-3.08g (possibly less if it is worn heavily) which were the given weights of the two found in AU. I do note, your scale is one of the cheaper pocket scales which in my opinion are not accurate, and the calibration of which are consistently questionable. 2.5g are zinc core, and 3.11g are the bronze. As far as your question on worth, any of these circulation cents which were minted in the numbers of billions are going to be worth at or near face value. The only one "worth" any premium is the "unicorn". And there is probably hundreds of thousands of people looking for a third which in my humble opinion is not going to ever be found.

Hello and welcome to the forum! You have an interesting error coin! It looks like the die was cracked and I can only think that disturbance led to the weakness and missing lettering on the reverse. What I am curious about is what is that on the reverse under the O in ONE CENT? There looks like a strange circular shape. As far as the value of this error, and all errors in general, I wish this answer was more helpful to you, but it is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it. Each error is unique, and some errors are more "common" than others such as struck through errors, which don't gain much premium. I think you would not go wrong to reach out to Sullivan Numismatics as mentioned by member @Sandon. They specialize only in error coins. I would think they wouldn't mind taking a look at your cent here and providing you with an opinion on its condition and worth. One other thing I am curious about it is where did you acquire this cent? Did you buy it from a seller or dealer? Also, I just want to say this one is pretty cool!

Hello and welcome to the forum! If you are seeking a grade on this coin I could provide that here. It is at best XF Details - Damaged. Its value is face value. If you are inquiring about submitting this coin to a third party grading service, continue to read my comments. There seems to be some surface environmental damage to your coin causing it to have a "gritty" or "sandblasted" look. Also, I note on the obverse some circular scratches from a coin roll wrapping machine. These modern coins need to be in gem BU to even consider them to be worth the cost of submitting to a TPG. Especially in a single coin submission, a modern tier coin costs $19 to grade, but you also have to add cost of shipping to and from the grading service which will run you about $30 each way. There is also a $10 handling fee applied to all orders. You would also need to shell out an additional $50 to become a basic member to have the ability to submit. It would run you about $130 for a TPG to grade this one coin which its value is face value. So, your answer to sending this for grading is no. As you are new, I would encourage you to avail yourself of the resources mentioned by member @Sandon.

Prices have come down a little bit but for the most part, yes.

I am at about 83% of making the full set of MS 64 FBL splattered with some MS 65 FBL's. If I get back anything less than MS 64 FBL, I will upgrade it. Some day I will complete this set. Where I am at right now, I built the whole thing from raw coins, but the empty slots are getting really hard to fill in the grade I want so I might just have to bite the bullet and complete the rest of the set with ones already slabbed.

An XF obverse. I didn't take a pic of the reverse as it graded low to me. Just saying why I don't think the OP's is high AU.

Very well then. How about you submit this coin to NGC as a mint error and get back to us on this thread with the results. I want to see a picture of it in the slab with the submission number. By the way, if the label says Damaged, it means it happened after it left the mint. I'll wait...

If it happens at the mint, it is not damage per se. It is an error. Capped coins are not damage. Nor are struck throughs, grease filled dies, off center strikes, rotated dies, broadstrikes, brockages...none of those things are damage. A coin struck with cracked dies is also not damage. It is a coin struck with a die that has cracks, not a damaged coin. I think you are confusing coins with physical damage done to them after they left the mint with coins that have an issue during striking. Do you consider your quarter with a cud in the other thread an error or a damaged coin?

In my humble opinion, I would put this coin at AU 50 being the obverse clasp has no detail and the hair of Liberty is more worn to that level and I would go with the obverse as the overriding factor. What does the ANACS label say as far as grade? As far as cleaning goes, many of these half dollars were cleaned and I really couldn't tell if yours was unless I had it in hand to tilt it to the light at different angles to see if any hairlines appear. Unless it was harshly cleaned, it is very difficult to tell if it is from just a single photo. If you were hellbent on cracking it out and it came back as AU Details, would it be worth it? I might just leave it as is if the current label doesn't say that.

With as much experience I do have, I am still learning. There is so much to know in this hobby I think I will get to the end of my time and still not know everything. I would have made the list in Variety Plus for VAM 14.1, 14.1A, 14.10, 14.11, 14.12, etc. That is why I didn't see it at first. I had to keep scrolling to get to it. I guess I organize differently than others. LOL! While I am not a registry participant, I am glad you are still able to put this coin into yours. I agree. There are just so many VAMS out there and I have very few of the total of them by comparison. I don't think it is a very populous VAM so congrats on having one. Yeah, I mean you could cross it over, but as a $$ thing I don't see why. I think at the point of when this coin might eventually be sold (I speak this way because I will go to the grave and someone else is going to do something with my coins) I don't think the crossover would help it add any value, and I don't see it changing anything except one word on the label. Well, maybe two since NGC calls it something different. And it wouldn't change the points it would get in the registry. So that's why I say to just leave it as is.