BlakeEik

This is probably the wrong forum for this - maybe "Ask NGC".

The wait is frustrating, I know.  The post office took over 6 weeks for mine just to be delivered.  Then it waited in receiving for a week before NGC opened it.  Then it took about a month to be notified that I should elect to conserve some of the coins.  Then another 2 weeks for than, then another to ship, and then another week until I received them.  

What is the status under "Submission Tracking"?

They did not pay to have it graded, only authenticated and pedigreed.  Chances are, its because it may have been cleaned, it's only AU, or something else was wrong with it.

10 hours ago, Ali E. said:

The coins will be sent out with the plaques over the next month. Thank you.

Thanks Ali... Any hints what it may be?  Or is it meant to be a surprise?

Hello,

Does anyone know anything more about:

"This year, major NGC Registry award winners will also receive an NGC-certified coin with a special label and pedigree worth approximately $100."?

I have not heard anything yet

Thanks for the response Lisa B.

If a bought a coin from a third party, am I able to retrieve the photos some how?

Why is this thread "pending approval" and why is no one approving it?

Hey Karl,

I looked at your set.  The reason your are #2 with the same points as #1 is simple: you are behind in the tertiary criteria.

• 1st criteria: points
• 2nd criteria: % of coins with photos
• 3rd criteria: % of coins with comments

Put some remarks on your coins and you will get boosted to #1.

Out of all that are #1: order is first come, first on the list

2 minutes ago, Fenntucky Mike said:

Could be the pictures but it doesn't look right to me, in any case I don't think any TPG will touch this coin. Best case it will be returned to you as a "No Decision". There are top notch experts here that will chime in. Hope I'm wrong, good luck!

From the Ira & Larry Goldberg 2010 auction. https://www.goldbergcoins.com/m/lot-details/index/catalog/3/lot/10563/ 

Thanks for posting the link with the background info.  Using this example, @Standior's 9 in "1959" does not look right at all, but it could be the photo.

Chances are it is counterfeit, but sending it to NGC for certification is the best way to find out.  If it's real, there's no reason you won't get it back, and if so, that is certainly quite a find. I wish you the best.

Please update us after grading!

Here is a good tip that is correct 99.99% of the time: If you have to ask if something is a replica, it is.

My experience:

They ship they way you told them to on your order form.  Default is registered mail.

No, I don't remember ever getting a tracking number.  You probably can if you call customer service.

If my coin had the Photo Vision service, how can I access the image?

Thanks

Coins arrived today - very quick - thanks Rick!

IF YOU COLLECT COINS FROM THE 20TH-21ST CENTURY, THIS IS A GREAT OPPORTUNITY!

@Six Mile Rick is a veteran collector with a fantastic collection - especially nickels and dimes. This is an amazing chance to find some coins you need.

I got my coins only after 4 days.  I am VERY pleased dealing with Rick.

On 2/7/2021 at 11:17 AM, Six Mile Rick said:

Thanks BlakeEik for making a purchase!!

Thank you, Rick!

Mr. Bill, 

You should also "verify" a certified coin by entering the serial number here.

There are counterfeit certified coins, too.  This is one more step in protecting yourself.

I read an article that said the Mint will release 2020W T1 Proofs, and then later in the year, 2020W + 2020S T2 Proofs, 2020 T1+T2 Reverse Proofs in a special set (not sure which mint is T1/T2), and also 2020W MS (burnished).

Bullion distributors will have both 2020 (no mintmark) T1 and T2 as well, like @MN1 said.

Bob,

you make a great point. Of course fraud in the registry possible, just like it is pretty much anywhere else. 
However, I think NGC holds cheaters accountable. If anyone was caught they would be banned. And all it would take is for someone to report they owned one of the coins by adding to their coin inventory. Also, NGC could ask someone for some “proof” if a member reported evidence of cheating. 
not a perfect system for sure...

eBay charges fees too, and you have to do all the work. GC is easy but it will take about 2 months to get paid. 
I’ve seen most SLQ do quite well there in higher grades. I’d expect you’ll get reasonable prices for both

13 minutes ago, olero said:

I started putting my collection in this set:

United States Type Coins

19th Century Series Type Set, Non-Proofs Only - No Gold

 

I should have started here:

US Type Set, 1792-1964

US Type Set, 1792-1964

It's would be a pain to delete the one set and start all over.

Thanks,

Russ

 

Hi Russ,

there’s no other way, but it’s not too difficult.  First, create your new set with the correct name. Then hit “auto build”. The change individual coins if you wish. 
you don’t need to delete the first set. You can have them both. 

What did it not "fit" into?  What are you trying to "transfer"?

Sellers do fine, in my opinion.  You won't get much more for common coins, but rare coins do as well as Heritage considering there is only 10%-12.5% buyers fee compared to %20.  It seems that there is a preference for PCGS/CAC coins on Great Collections, too.

SandraHill,

First, nonsense!  There's no such thing as "too many" coins!    Are the coins already separated into logical groups, or just random?  How old are they? Do not sell them to an untrusted stranger!

Second, I would follow the advice of Morpheus.  I would separate them by types. Separate the Roosevelt dimes and Washington quarters dated 1965 and older, and Kennedy Halves 1971 and older.  Separate the Jefferson nickels with a mintmark on the back (like CBC says).  Separate any coins older than 1965 that look "new" carefully, and put them into plastic coin flips for protection.

Next, stop there. I would get someone who knows something about 20th century coins to help you. It sounds like you have a long ways to go to get that far.

By the way, this is probably not the correct forum for this topic, it may get moved.

Good luck!

Hi thanasisvolos. This is not really a "registry" topic.  It's more of a "Newbie Question. See here: https://www.ngccoin.com/boards/forum/90-newbie-coin-collecting-questions/

It is not possible to authenticate coins by photos only. To me this looks like a replica of a 1795 Small Eagle draped bust dollar with an off center bust.

Many counterfeits exist.  Here are some links:

• https://coinauctionshelp.com/identify_fake_authentic_drapedbust_silverdollars.html
• https://coinweek.com/counterfeits/struck-counterfeit-coins-a-family-of-struck-fake-draped-bust-dollars/
• https://lagoldandsilver.com/silver/1795-silver-dollar-real/#:~:text=If your coin weighs significantly,professional coin dealer for authentication.

Hi Armour. I’m sorry for the experience you’re having. But since you say yourself that you are a new collector, I should tell you that you are feeling exactly the same way most new collectors feel when they submit coins for grading the first time. I can offer you some advice, take it or leave it as you wish. But I feel I learned these the hard way.

1. Coin grades are opinions. They differ from person to person and from company to company. Arguing about your coin grade is similar to arguing about who the best boxer was in their prime.  You can’t win the argument.

2. If you want to own a coin with a certain grade, then buy the coin after it was graded. Trying to find a coin in the grade you want and thinking it will grade out the same will be very frustrating.

3. Submitting coins that are only worth a lot in high grades or with a full step designation, and worth much less in lower grades, will end up costing you lots of money. Don’t do it. Your nickel would have to grade FS to be worth the grading fees.  If you want to grade those kind of coins, you need to send in a bulk amount and pay for pre-screen services. That’s the only way these kind of coins will be worth the fees.

4. Coins cannot be graded from photos. Even good photos do not accurately present an accurate luster of the coin. And you need high resolution photos to adequately evaluate the strike and any markings.

5. The major greeting companies are pretty good at what they do. You might not agree, but you probably have not yourself graded millions of coins. And you probably do not have on hand benchmark examples of each coin in each grade to compare them to. Of course there’s always room for error, but on average NGC is a pretty consistent grader.

In my opinion, collectors need to find peace with these ideas to keep enjoying the hobby with coin grading services.