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BlakeEik

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Posts posted by BlakeEik

  1. Hi Lily Girl,

    I think they have this already, you just need to go to the PCGS registry. 
    All US sets in the NGC registry allow both NGC and PCGS slabs. If they change that policy, I’m sure it would be to exclude the competitor, not themselves. But I’ve been wrong before. 

  2. That’s a good question. Someone shouldn’t use an error to benefit them in the scoring, but it’s not their fault the holder came back with the mistake. I’m not sure what the policy is. Will NGC reholder a coin when there is a mistake on it?

  3. 14 hours ago, Franklin Forester said:

    Newbie to NGC, but long time collector.  Just put my set of PR franklins in registry and 4 of those are PCGS coins, anyone know long before they are confirmed--just curious?  Also, I have a DDO and PR for same year (1960) but it only seems to take one coin.  How do I remedy that so I can get both coins in?  Thank you and hello to all!  Brian (Franklin Forester)        

    Welcome Brian.  The time it takes adding PCGS coins varies, but recently it seems to be only 1-2 working days.

    The way the "competitive" registry works, NGC decides what slots make up a set. Then you can only add one coin per slot.  Usually, the one with the most amount of points. You can request that NGC add a slot to a set, such as a 1960 DDO slot, but they are reluctant to do that because it affects all users, and some users will definitely not want that slot.

    If you want to make your own sets and choose your own slots, check out the "custom" registry.  It is on the old site NGC Registry Editor.  Changes to these sets are unique to you, and these sets do not "compete" for normal awards, although there is an award for "best custom set" I believe.  Restrictions apply, and the interface is somewhat clunky compared to the new site, so check it out.

  4. 3 hours ago, Revenant said:

    I think you could make a new set up to Dec 3rd or 4th (before the cutoff time) and still win

    What I find curious is if you can do this, then why penalize people for marking their set private during the year? Would they not be able to just delete their private set, and create a new identical one at the last minute, because that is allowed?  If so, what's the point of the rule?

  5. 7 hours ago, Ali E. said:

    The ANA Registry release date has been pushed off until next year

    Thanks for the follow up. I actually never expected it to be ready this year, and that’s not a slight, it just so happens to be an area of expertise of mine. 

  6. I took a peek at your 7070. I think you have been buying nice coins by the photos there.  I don't think their book value will decline much over the years, but like I said, I think the rarer, older coins will perform better.  If you have the opportunity (and $$$), I would look for the bust and seated coins first, and only get the moderns you are missing when you can't find suitable classics.  When I started, I tried the opposite strategy, and bought the easy-to-find moderns, but that was mostly because that's all I could afford, and I like modern coins too.  I bought the older coins once I made more money.

  7. 10 hours ago, The Neophyte Numismatist said:

    Would you say that a key date in VF is "better" than a common date in MS65 (assuming the cost of the coin is the same)?  I have been exclusively shooting for common dates in the highest grades I can afford (maybe a rookie mistake). 

    The more scarce it is, the more potential it has to bring bigger gains.  Scarce as in low mintage, but also in condition (as graded by NGC or PCGS). Modern coins like the State Quarters in mint bags sold for big buck when first released - these have no chance to make big gains from that point.  Meanwhile I have a 1916D dime in VG8 that has (at least) tripled since I bought it in the nineties. Key dates in popular series will rarely lose money over the long haul. Common dates in high grades have potential for gain when the condition is rare, like a common date wheat cent in PF68 Ultra Cameo.   But not so much for common condition like a memorial cent dated in the 1990s in PF70 Ultra Cam.  And don't forget: the coin needs to like like it deserves the grade.

    I am a type collector too.  I decided after collecting for a year or two that I wanted it to remain a hobby first, investment 2nd. I do not carefully track my costs for this reason. But I also decided I didn't want to make any bad purchases. What you say is good - stick to PCGS and NGC coins, CAC too if so, and buy coins you want (not the holder). Buying raw coins can be risky if you don't know what you are looking for.  I'll pay up to "retail" price, either using the PCGS guide or the CDN guide if I really want the coin. The NGC guide I find to be more outdated, or over priced, but not all the time.  If you are looking for a deal, research the hammer prices for similar coins. What ever you get, chances are they may go up or down in price as the market tends to cycle. But if you really liked the coin when you bought it, it won't matter much.

    Lots of good advice can be found here https://www.ngccoin.com/news/

    If you are not a member of the ANA, join, their magazine has good articles and recommends more good reads.

  8. 7 hours ago, The Neophyte Numismatist said:

    First, a disclaimer... I am a total beginner coin collector (as my handle-name implies).  I started collecting coins in April of 2020, but I have been reading tons and have made a few connections in the hobby that have helped me a bit.

    Lately, I have been buying PCGS and NGC graded coins to complete a 7070.  I originally wanted to keep the set MS+ if at all possible.  Most of my coins are MS64-67, and many have been CAC approved.  As I move back in time, I can see the costs driving-up dramatically (Seated and Capped/Draped coinage in particular).  I base my pricing estimates off the Greysheet and completed Ebay and private auctions to ensure a fairly competitive price point.  I am ready to step-out into the bigger coins, but I will have to make some tough choices on what I can do next.  I have seen historical sales soften on some coins, while increasing on others, but I do not have the timespan in the hobby to understand decades-long trends to make more educated decisions.  

    I understand the attage, "buy what you like".  That said, I would like to better understand the historical market dynamics on a few of these coins, and get your advice on "If you were building a typeset and wanted to buy one of the "bigger coins", which one would you choose first?"  Are there coins that are cheaper to buy now, and others should wait for further depreciation?  I have been thinking about the following coins:

    • Classic Head Large Cent - MS62BN
    • Seated Dollar (no motto) - MS64
    • Capped Bust Quarter (Large Diameter) - MS63

    And - are there others within this range that I need to add to the list of targets?  Thanks in advance for the advice, and sorry for the long post.

    Neo

    If you are worried about the coins you buy as an investment: add to your list Early gold (1795-1804), Early Silver (1794-1804, but especially with small eagles), Classic Gold (pre-1840), and buy key dates, not types. Also check the mintages and pop reports: As an investment, you are much better off buying a MS65 with population of 6 over a MS64 with a population of 600. Markets will change a lot, however scarcities do not change much. 

    But in my opinion, if you are not so worried about the investment, the excitement in finding a nice type that you don't already have, like a Classic Head LC, Large Capped Bust 25c, or MS Seated $1, is worth more than potential gain your kids will inherit.

     

  9. 2 hours ago, Early Releases said:

    A proof is not a type of bullion coin like you are implying. 

    I agree that there different qualities in strike even between bullion coins. And one mint could use a strike that they class as bullion but other mints would class as proof.

    But a Mint will sell a coin as a proof or as a bullion coin.

    And this Kanagroo coin is specially sold by the mint as a Proof coin. It is not sold as a “Bullion coin with a proof strike” 

    I know of no major mint that will say a coin can be both a bullion coin and a proof coin at the same time. I suppose you could use different dies if you really wanted to finish a coin one side in proof finish and the other with a lower quality bullion finish.

    Anyway irrespective of anything, the Kangaroo coin I am referring to is specifically sold and marketed as a Proof coin by The Perth Mint. It is a proof. 

    I have many coins that are both bullion and proofs.  If you are talking about a name the Australian mint gave to a series of coins, fine, but claiming "no major mint will say a coin can be both a bullion coin and a proof coin at the same time" is theory you alone hold.   Here is link to a registry set you claim should not exist - proof bullion produced by a major mint and certified by NGC. 

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive/united-states/american-eagles-and-bullion-coins/7668/

    Is this the Kangroo coin you say is "Proof" not bullion?

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australian_Silver_Kangaroo_(bullion)

    If so, alert wikipedia - they got it wrong too. No mention of "proof" but bullion referenced several times.

    There are lots of resources on line that can help sort this information for you.

  10. On 8/11/2020 at 6:40 PM, Early Releases said:

    Because proofs shouldn’t be listed under a category called Bullion IMO.  

    Proofs and bullion coins are not mutually exclusive. A proof is a type of strike, and bullion coins are made of high purity precious metals. Bullion coins, like all coins, could be produced with different strikes including proofs, reverse proofs, enhanced proofs, uncirculated mint state, etc.

  11. Ali,

    That is EXACTLY what I was asking for.  Thank you for facilitating the resolution.  I'm glad they agreed - although my rank dropped in 2 of my type sets, it's better to have realistic scores for each coin. Thank you,  

  12. Ali,

    My question was about the type of coins, not a single coin.  I can provide an example if I must.  I guess I'm just frustrated after giving detailed evidence of why there is certainly an oversight in the brilliant proof wheat cents, and I got no rationale, reasoning, or even a reply.

    What did the assessment team think of my comments?  

  13. Hello,

    It's been 6 months so I thought I would check on this - how many requests are in front of this one (reducing the type scores for brilliant Lincoln-wheat proofs to a reasonable amount)?

    Thank you,

    Blake