Coinbuf

Yep GC will deduct the fees after the auction ends. Also if you are not aware, Gc does give advances if you want your fund even earlier. I have never done the advance thing so I don't know all that entails, just know it is an option. Did you consider using the BST here or ats, both are free and for some low cost coins may be a better option.

I'm sad to say that hoop is no longer with us except in memory.

Looks like the correct diagnostic line to me, congrats on the find.

@Simple Collector here is the procedure to fix this. Click on the coin date in your set, that will take you to a screen of that coin. Just under the coin description on the left you will see Click that and you will get a pop up that gives you the option to choose "this coin has a CAC sticker". Choose that option and the registry team will review and add the CAC designation to the coin.

It looks real to me, @Kerrykz can you provide a close up of the TY of Liberty. There should be a die scratch between the two letters that looks like this photo from VV.

"what were they thinking" My first thought is they were trying to profit by deception, it may have been good enough to fool some new or less educated collectors at some time, heck it could deceive lots of get rich quick types today. The date looks ok from what I can see in the photo.

EF40 details to my eyes, however, it should not straight grade with the corrosion on the rev.

Worthless strike doubling only. We have shared with you the sites you can go and learn what real hub doubling vs the worthless forms of strike doubling are, have we not?

No No No

I would (if you haven't already) check the completed sales on Ebay for 69 and 70 graded coins. I don't follow the series but it might be more valuable in the ANACS 70 holder than in an NGC 69.

At the ANA show last weekend I had the opportunity to hear the clink and clack of silver and plastic hitting the concrete floor multiple times. I'll bet that the clack sounds of the plastic had a much higher chance of no damage to the coins than the silver clink sounds. I guess Kurt's brother must have had a table there too. One dealer table I stopped at was very eager to share his disdain for slabs with everyone who stopped by his table. Needless to say I did not see him do any business while I was around his area.

No part of the design, the columns inside the Memorial.

The ASE, both silver and gold, are beautiful coins with a great design. And many fair just fine and may never develop any spots, but many do. It is a problem that collectors of silver ASE coins must deal with, hopefully the enjoyment of the coins outweighs the pain of the few that do develop spots. While I like the coins and design, I simply don't want the hassles of the spots so other than a few I picked up along the way as type coins, it is a series that I have avoided. When these first came out the prices were much closer to silver spot, so thinking like a hobbyist it really wasn't that much of a problem if one or two spotted as you still had the silver value of the coin so it was a minimal financial hit. Now with the premium for the coin well over silver spot I imagine it stings a bit more.

Nothing was pressed onto the steps except for where the line is, from your reply I'm thinking that you are seeing the entire area between the lines as a depressed area. It is not, just the line was pressed or cut into the surface of the coin not the entire area.

Yes, both examples of the common mechanical doubling.

Duplicate post, please post your questions only once.

Beware of the fakebook, pinterest, and YouTube sites that claim to tell you how to get rich quick on pocket change. If it was really that easy everyone would be a millionaire already. The only people getting rich are the peeps that make advertising money of of the clicks they get by spewing misinformation. What you have is as already noted just common everyday strike doubling, totally worthless. If you really want to learn what a true doubled die coin is and is not here is a link to that information. Pay particular attention to the sections on Doubled die and Worthless doubling. Wexler

Looks like a vice job, something was pressed against the coin to leave this impression. It could have been intentional or unintentional, that will never be known. We call coins like this vice jobs because some people do this in a bench vice to create fake errors.

Sometimes as @Sandon mentioned the database gets corrupted and a stray old cert gets lost. However, this can also happen when PCGS has become aware of a problem such as a counterfeit. I would contact PCGS CS and see if they are aware of any issues with this cert number, most likely just a database glitch but better to check and be sure.

Looks like a very nice coin in an old gen 1.2 rattler holder, congrats.

Keep in mind that I cannot say for sure from the photos that it is raised only that it appears to be, if it is actually incuse (cut into the surface of the coin) then the chances are it is just simple damage. If you run a toothpick across the line and it falls in a groove then assume damage, if the toothpick rises up over the line like a mound then some damage to the die like a die gouge is the most likely answer.

Welcome to the forum, from the photos the line appears to be raised so a die gouge is very likely the culprit. While this is a mint error it is minor and not very dramatic, so it may not even be something that NGC or PCGS would even note on a slab label, or only as minor error if they did.

Welcome to the forum @northkorea, these are called mechanical errors. It happens when the person typing in the data for the label makes a typo and does not catch the mistake, happens at all the TPGS from time to time. NGC has always been very helpful and has taken care of the problem at no cost to me on the occasions that they have happened to me.

Hi @Ali E., how about a new US type set of obsolete coinage. Could be setup in a couple of formats, one for non gold and one including gold. The non gold set is short and should be doable for many collectors with just six coins, 1) half cent, 2) half dime, 3) two cent piece, 4) three cent silver 5) three cent nickel, and 6) twenty cent piece. A with gold set would require a bit more expense but could be made more manageable by including only 1) gold dollar (any type) 2) 2 1/2 gold coin (again any type) 3) five dollar gold coin (yep you guessed it any type) 4) gold eagle (yes any type) and 5) double eagle or saint. Thanks!

Welcome to the forums, that looks like a cool coin, do you have any information about the coin itself? It is advisable not to touch the face (obv or rev) of a coin with your fingers, the oils in our skin can react with the metal and damage the surface, gold is the least reactive of all metals but getting into the habit of holding coins by the edge only is a good thing. We love to look at coin photos, and the easiest way to do that is to have the coin lay on a black, white or gray background when taking a photo, and then cropping the photo so as little of the background shows as possible, like this.