Just Bob

Probably would have been easier to go to your profile page and look through the threads you have started. I did, and there were only 19 choices, so you should have been able to find this one right away.

Welcome to the forum. The grades of Poor to About Good, which is what "PrAg" means in this thread, have nothing to do with your coin. Those grades describe a coin that is worn almost smooth, and your coin is obviously not in that kind of shape. I have to say, though, that your pictures definitely do not make your coin look anywhere as nice as the MS66 coin that you also posted. In fact, your coin does not look uncirculated at all. Enlarging your pictures shows numerous tics and hits, and what appears to be wear. There is also very little luster showing, especially compared to your other coin. Sorry to be such a downer on your first thread, but I am just calling it like I see it.

This is an interesting idea. I hope, at some point in the future, you will post a link to your set, so that we can see what you have accomplished. Good luck!

Welcome to the forum. To elaborate a bit: In the early 1960s, the country was experiencing a shortage of small change, and the government, looking for someone to blame, decided that coin collectors were the culprit. They came up with the idea that if they did not put mint marks on the coins, it would discourage collectors from pulling coins from circulation. So, they passed an act to mint all coins with no mint mark, which lasted for three yeas. They also increased the number of coins minted each year. Your quarter, for example, was one of over 1.5 Billion quarters minted with the 1967 date. The total number of quarters dated either 1965, 66, or 67 was over 4 billion. That is why they can still be found, with some frequency, in circulation today - over 50 years later. As for the grade of your coin, you could probably squeak a Very Good out of it, but it is still only worth 25 cents. Now, if you don't mind, I have a serious question for you. (And this question is asked without any hint of implication, accusation, or preconception. I just really am curious). What was your reason for putting all of those tags in the title?

My sister, stepdaughter, and one of my neighbors all have chickens, so they usually keep us in eggs, but if they are out, we buy from some other local farmers. Fresh farm eggs usually go from $1.50 to $3 a dozen. The advantage, besides being chemical/antibiotic free, is that they will last a month just sitting on the counter - if you don't wash them until you get ready to use them. To be honest ,I haven't bought eggs from the store in so long I wasn't sure what they were selling for, so I stopped by the local grocery store this morning. Large eggs ranged from $1.69 for the store brand to $4.19 for organic. I checked potatoes while I was there. Russets were 5 lbs/$3.69,and 5 lb bags of reds were $2.50.

I think they are mostly a matter of taste. Some like them - some don't. I am one of the some that likes them. Got pictures? Oh, and Welcome to the Forum.

Where are you buying a dozen eggs for $0.84, or 5 lbs of potatoes for 99 cents? I need to shop there.

Here is a link to the thread that Joe posted on this forum about the fire and his safes. CLICK HERE

It is not an error. It appears to have been plated, and the plating is now coming off.

From NGC: "Coins graded MS 69 and lower may be encapsulated in the Certified Roll. All coins must be the same grade, but adjectival grades such as GEM UNCIRCULATED are acceptable if the coins qualify. The Certified Roll is currently available for eligible bulk submissions of American Silver Eagles and Chinese Silver Pandas."

In order to avoid confusion, it's better to start a new thread for each coin you would like to discuss. Posting your coin on someone else's thread makes it harder to figure out which coin is being talked about

I have not looked at prices, but, if it looks like you may be able to get your target price by selling now, it might not be a bad idea to go ahead and turn them loose. There is no way to predict what silver, or Statehood Quarters, or inflation, or the ability to freely buy or sell will be like in 20 years.

Oh, I see... You're stoned. Now it all makes sense.

That is an awfully uppity attitude. What is the problem here?

Maybe it is the toning, but I don't see the split in the upper serif.

The second one is.

Welcome to the forum. All 5 of those are large date cents.

The main obverse die marker for a 1909 Matte Proof is raised, parallel die lines in front of Lincoln's nose, extending down to a point even with his lips. I think there are markers for the reverse, too, but I don't remember them. Shouldn't be too hard to find that information online. Regardless, I don't think yours are proofs. Nice coins, though.

Welcome to The Forum. In this particular case, it means the back side of the coin. Obverse is front; reverse is rear. The memorial is on the reverse, (1958 - 2008), instead of wheat ears,(before 1959) or a shield (after 2009).

What actually happened? Did the coin not cross? Was it declared not genuine? Did it receive a lower grade?

You gotta love the background music - on both videos.

Doubled dies are possible with the single-squeeze method. They are almost always in the center of the die/coin. Here is a excerpt from Wexler's: When the Mint introduced the single-squeeze hubbing presses on a trial basis around 1985, and then to produce working dies at Denver and Philadelphia in 1996 and 1997, it had hoped to eliminate doubling produced during the hubbing process. Unfortunately for the Mint, this did not result and minor doubled dies are actually being produced more frequently on the new single-squeeze hubbing presses than they were on the older multiple-squeeze hubbing presses. We believe that we know the reason for this. In the older multiple-squeeze hubbing presses the hub was fixed to the top of the hubbing chamber for the first hubbing. When it descended down into the face of the die it couldn’t move as it made contact with the die as it was locked into the top of the hubbing chamber. In the single-squeeze hubbing presses the set up is different. The die blank is placed into the well of a collar placed in the bottom of the hubbing chamber. The hub is also placed into the well of the collar so that the face of the hub is resting on the conical point of the top of the die blank. Since the diameter of the well in the collar has to exceed the diameter of the die blank and the hub (so that the die blank and hub can be inserted into and removed from the collar, and so that the hub can be pushed downward into the die), there is “play” in the collar well. It allows for some horizontal movement between the hub and the die when the hubbing process begins. There is even the possibility of some rotational movement. It also allows for the hub to be tilted with respect to the die prior to the start of the hubbing since it is sitting unrestrained on top of the die blank in the collar well. Since the hub is slightly tilted at the time the hubbing begins, as it is pushed down into the collar well and into the die blank it will be forced into a more vertical alignment in the collar well. If there is some resistance to the vertical realignment when the hubbing begins, it may snap back into proper alignment at some point as the hubbing proceeds. Hubbing press operators have described a “clunking sound” that is heard when the hub snaps back into proper alignment. When this happens, there will be a misalignment between the image formed prior to the hub snapping into alignment and the image formed after the snap. The result is doubling. Because the hub is not fixed to the top of the hubbing chamber as it was in the multiple-squeeze hubbing presses, the movements resulting from the “play” in the well of the hubbing chamber seem to occur frequently producing minor doubled dies.

It is way more obvious than that. Seriously, check your Red Book. Edited to add: I don't like being so cryptic, but I really hate giving counterfeiters any assistance, no matter how easily they could find it on their own. I will PM you the reason it can be easily identified as a fake, if you like.

I think it is. It appears to be showing The tell-tale tapering of the rim, and on the reverse, the Blakesley (spelled it right that time) Effect appears opposite, left of the tip of the Eagle's wing.

I am going to "add insult to injury," and say that anyone who has had hundreds of Morgans graded should never have fallen for this fake. A quick check of the Red Book would have shown you that there is no way that this could be a genuine coin.