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MAULEMALL

Member: Seasoned Veteran
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Posts posted by MAULEMALL

  1. 2 hours ago, VKurtB said:

    It’s a different population, like red giants or red dwarfs on the Hertzbrung Russell diagram of stars. 

    That is most definitely obtuse as Red giants can and most probably become white dwarfs.. 

    it's a shame Thing doesn't post here anymore.. Very big into the stars.. Was noted for discovering a storm on Mars a few years back..

    Our most noted publisher now is noted for electricity bills at the mint..:whistle:

  2. 9 hours ago, MarkFeld said:

    If those “strike characters” were part of the “grade”, they should affect the numerical grade and they don’t. If I remember correctly, in the old days, NGC even had a separate “designation review” and it included PL and DMPL, among other designations. It was less costly than (grade) regrades.

    But I really think we’re talking semantics here and I realize that plenty of others see it the same way you do. So my side of our gentlemanly debate is now done.

     

     

    I was thinking symantics as well... 
    Maybe NGC can reword their page to clarify.

  3. 7 hours ago, MarkFeld said:

    Yes, MS63 and MS63 DMPL are both the same (numerical) grade. But the latter has an attribute which the former doesn’t and it’s designated as such.

    PL and DMPL are not grades. As you know, in our industry, grades are numerical - on a scale of 70 and lower. PL and DMPL are modifiers/designations. The same goes for color designations on bronze coins as well as “FH”, FBL”, “FB”, etc.

    It seems NGC considers the strike character a part and parcel of the grade.

    NGC Coin Grading Scale | About Coin Grades | NGC

  4. 4 hours ago, Edward Plato said:

    Thread definitely got derailed, I apologize for opening a can of worms, I just wanted to vent and show others the coins, obviously no one can possibly grade a coin via photographs. Look, I don't want to get rich from selling coins on ebay, just want to offset what I'm buying and anything new with a 69 grade might as well put it in the book. I always thought the grading guidelines was to start every coin at a 70 and start subtracting for flaws.....WITH A 5 POWER MAGNIFICATION !!!

    I think these guys are using a 20 power because I am unable to find anything, and since there is no explanation I haven't a clue what I'm looking for. There I go ranting again, bad Ed.

    Maybe, just maybe, after grading so many coins in a day by the end of the day they may look a bit fuzzy....just sayin'

    if you are pinning your hopes on a point you are going to be very disappointed in this hobby.. And Nevada is a funny guy.. He Has no actual grading experience and only collects slabs but he does have a used car salesman vibe thats very endearing if you are a sucker that way..:roflmao:

  5. 1 hour ago, TheOneandOnlyTacitus said:

    I have the same problem if anyone can help. I found an 1893 CC Morgan Dollar. It's in an ACG case. It doesn't look like it's cleaned. The both it's in is filled with silver and at least 100+ Morgan dollars. So I assume he wouldn't try to peddle a counterfeit coin. Advice would be much appreciated. 

    16114285074821251680143.jpg

    Crack it... Seriously... Alan Hagar and ACG are persona non grata in the comunity...

    If you want it in a slab send it in but it has a stigma in that plastic.

  6. On 1/7/2021 at 5:43 PM, Bubblebling said:

    Greetings. You prob heard about the $600 stimulus checks being sent out. I got mine. Not much money. Was wondering what I could do with it.

    I got the bright idea that I could start a new US coin business, buying and selling on eBay.

    I haven't signed up yet. Haven't had the time. Right now I am doing data entry on US quarter types and mintages.

    I don't know much about all the US coins. But I have great genetics. My Grandpa Martin on my Dad's side had an awesome collection. Lots of gold.

    So I decided that since I don't know much about US coins, I should just start learning mostly about one denomination. I chose quarters.

    Being new, and only starting out with $600, I would be foolish to buy gold or super rare coins. I just ordered the Red and Blue book.

    A few observations: Perhaps like you, I love looking at the coins being offered up on eBay. I can spend hours (which I don't have), browsing the eBay listings. If I ever get enough money, I would luv to get one of those big lots. I know that you prob will get taken on those, but they look like fun.

    I've been doing some studying on buying and selling coins, too. I am pretty confident that I will do well buying and selling.

    I won't be buying any "Buy it nows." Just auctions.

    One thing that amazes me is how little people offer for really nice pieces. You can have an Indian Head penny, in beautiful condition, well over a hundred years old, and you will be lucky if you can get five dollars for it. This ceases to amaze me!

    I'm think that I am going to concentrate on proofs, and brilliant gem uncircs. After I run the coin thru my screening, I will ask myself, is this a coin that I would enjoy owning? (In case I get stuck with it.

    I suspect that lots of folks over pay for their coins).

    Esp how people will hardly offer anything for really nice, old coins. Forget pennies and nickles. It would cost more in shipping than what most of them are worth. I'm going to stay with silver. I can always subtract out the silver value to find out the desirability factor of a coin.

    I have identified four factors that contribute to a coins price. I haven't worked out the math equations yet, but I will. 

    Date. Everything else being equal, an older coin should go for more than a new(er) coin. 

    Mintage and "Key" dates.

    Actually, these terms are interchangable. And while they do affect the price of a coin, it is not totally dependable, again, all other things being equal.

    Desirability.

    You can have the same coin, same grade, even the same year, and mint, and some coins, especially finishes, are going to be more desired by collectors in general.

    Burnished finish on proofs, and colored coins come to mind. They will be less desired by collectors. Even if the mintage is lower.

    Grading.

    Obviously the grade of the coin is very important.

    So we have four factors that influence a coins current value:

    Date, mintage, Collector desirability, and grade. Each of these factors can be gotten or calculated.

    So these are a few things that I am working on right now. I'm going to start slow, to just get my feet wet. I have had excellent experience selling other things on eBay. For example, I know that the photo is very important.

    I'm going to avoid all those "errors", too. They hardly ever sell.

    And I will be interested in mostly single coins, or very small lots. No rolls of coins or monster boxes for me. Rolls of coins wouldn't look very pretty in my beautiful treasure chest. And of course forget about monster boxes.

    I hope that I can make some money, get some nice coins, and maybe have a little fun, too. I'm retired, and going crazy with nothing to do.

    Wish me luck. Any suggestions you have for me of course are welcome.

     

     

     

     

    Weatherby SA-459...

    Thats what I got(thumbsu

  7. 8 minutes ago, KyCoinKollektor said:

    Well don’t send it to pcgs a scratched coin gets a “scratched” designation instead of a grade. So I don’t understand how you think that doesn’t affect the grade. But I do think it needs an evaluation in hand 100% before a decision to send it in is made. 

    Truthfully they are considered the same as bag marks and don't effect whether they grade..

    I'm not so sure they aren't planchet flaws and could only tell in hand..

    2DF18792-C7AE-44E7-957E-74167252F01E.jpeg.381c18e726885ceecf819ebd558ef925.jpeg