1995 P Jefferson Nickel Question 1 1

[CommunicatorDan]

Hello,

 

First off I would like to mention a thanks for all who have responded to my last couple of posts. It has been very helpful and insightful.

Now here is a new question. What is going on with this nickel?

I know first off there is probably a plating issue or just simply corrosion.

I was curious abour the doubling from Jefferson's brow to his crown. Secondly am I seeing a die crack going from his nose out to the rim?

[Sandon]

   The only thing of any numismatic interest about this 1995-P nickel is the die crack running from the edge of the coin to Jefferson's nose. Die cracks are very common on both old and new U.S. coins and unless extreme generally add little or no collector value.

   The coin can't have a "plating" issue because only copper-plated zinc Lincoln cents made since the latter part of 1982 are plated.  (1943 steel cents are zinc coated and are sometimes "replated" to simulate their original bright appearance.)  Please check your "Redbook"--I assume you have one--for basic information about the composition and other specifications of U.S. coins.  There you will find that "nickels" are composed of a homogeneous (solid) alloy of 75% copper, 25% nickel, which darkens (corrodes) when exposed to certain environmental conditions. It is possible that the alloy wasn't properly mixed, but this would be difficult to determine on a circulated coin and usually wouldn't be of much interest anyway.

   The shallow shelf-like doubling at Jefferson's brow is strike doubling a.k.a. machine or mechanical doubling. This is considered worthless doubling. See Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com).  

   If you don't at least have a recent "Redbook", a grading guide, and access to current price lists, please advise so that we may refer you to forum topics where you may learn how to obtain these and other essential resources.

[Greenstang]

Agree with Sandon, a small die crack and machine doubling, 
neither of which add any numismatic value.

[CommunicatorDan]

Thank you, I will consult redbook.

As much as I read up on machine doubling, I have a hard time distinguishing between maching doubling and authentic.

I have seen pictures of authentic doubling and some look shelf like. I know most doubling are duplicates of the image or can appear as exaggerated bubble like appearance of leters or numbers.

[Sandon]

On 2/13/2024 at 1:25 PM, CommunicatorDan said:

I have a hard time distinguishing between machine doubling and authentic.

      Both types are "authentic", but strike doubling a.k.a. machine or mechanical doubling is caused by movement of a die that is slightly loose in the press, which is very common, while die doubling is caused by doubling in the die itself and may command a premium.  Another source with descriptions and photos you might want to review on this subject is at https://www.doubleddie.com/144822.html. Also see the related topics regarding worthless "die deterioration doubling" and "abrasion doubling" linked at the bottom of that page.

[The Neophyte Numismatist]

On 2/13/2024 at 1:25 PM, CommunicatorDan said:

As much as I read up on machine doubling, I have a hard time distinguishing between maching doubling and authentic.

I have seen pictures of authentic doubling and some look shelf like. I know most doubling are duplicates of the image or can appear as exaggerated bubble like appearance of leters or numbers.

It's not easy.  For the longest time I was terrible.  Honestly, if it were not for being able to spot split serifs... I would still struggle more than I do.  It takes time.  Keep comparing what you find to known examples.

Ultimately I walked away from trying to find doubled dies.  It's too much work for me, and not enough finds.... and when I find them... they are not worth money (and frankly not very interesting to me).  If you are into hunting for doubled die coins because you think that's where the money is - you should rethink it.  Do it because you love them.  You will never feed yourself doing it.

[powermad5000]

I also agree there was a die crack that formed that line from the edge.

One thing to look for when it comes to doubling is that a true doubled image will be at the same height as the original image. Split serifs are also an indicator as they are also all at the same height. When you see steps like you see on this nickel, it is some form of mechanical or strike doubling. Slopes are usually indicative of die deterioration doubling where the dies are so worn that the metal from the strike starts to flow outward from the design elements in the die.

Typically only when there is a shattered die will cracks that affect the design be major enough to qualify as a mint error but those are very difficult to find.

[EagleRJO]

On 2/13/2024 at 1:25 PM, CommunicatorDan said:

As much as I read up on machine doubling, I have a hard time distinguishing between [machine] doubling and authentic.

In addition to the comprehensive discussion on this at Wexler's site referenced by Sandon, see the discussion on "How Dies are Made" on that site as well as the attached infographic on this.  You really have to hold the coin in your hand and tilt it with some magnification to clearly see the height difference of doubled elements.

[powermad5000]

Thanks @EagleRJO. I have that photo saved somewhere and I couldn't find it for the OP.

[EagleRJO]

On 2/14/2024 at 10:41 PM, powermad5000 said:

I have that photo saved somewhere and I couldn't find it for the OP.

I uploaded that infographic as well as a few others referenced occasionally, along with a list of commonly referenced links, to the pinned topic at the top of this sub-forum if you need them in the future.

[CommunicatorDan]

Thank you all for responses, very helpfuyl.