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1856 Coronet Head Gold $2.50 Quarter Eagle. Opinions on condition, and worthy or not to be graded?
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14 posts in this topic

Good looking Liberty Head, I would guess a XF40 to 45 I think there is to much wear on the coin to get a AU grade.  

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Thanks again RWB. I had a question though how do you determine scrubbed or cleaning lines versus from being in circulation or other variables from over the years? Would you just have to send it in to get graded to be sure? 20230810_155005.thumb.jpg.40e01d542d1bd56ee527f8248ba2d41e.jpgLooks very similar to an AU 58 1851 $1 I have.

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On 8/10/2023 at 3:33 PM, J P M said:

Good looking Liberty Head, I would guess a XF40 to 45 I think there is to much wear on the coin to get a AU grade.  

Thanks J P M I was originally thinking a possible XF40ish myself haha always hoping for more though. Nice to hold on occasion but I would prefer for it to be kept safer than raw. Do you think it's worth getting graded? I have a AU58 1851 $1 for comparison posted. 

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On 8/10/2023 at 5:02 PM, NeverEnoughCoins09 said:

Thanks J P M I was originally thinking a possible XF40ish myself haha always hoping for more though. Nice to hold on occasion but I would prefer for it to be kept safer than raw. Do you think it's worth getting graded? I have a AU58 1851 $1 for comparison posted. 

Well the coin is worth the cost to grade due to its value being high enough. It is your choice, at the least you would know the grade for sure.  

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If you are just looking to get it slabbed then yes it is a candidate.  however if you are looking to get an actual grade on it you should pass.   The coin will defiantly get a details grade or Net grade if you send it in.  anywhere from 35 - 45 in the Fine categories. just like the guys said.

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   By way of comparison, PCGS graded this 1853 quarter eagle AU 53.  (The weakness in some of the details, especially on the reverse, is due to strike, but it would still be XF by my standards.) I bought it mostly because of the interesting repunched date, which isn't mentioned on the holder.

1853quartereagleobv..jpg.fcb45d5501032902c1f8f20a505cf219.jpg

1853quartereaglerev..jpg.e74006ac9c0bd2a437d5654e7af1f589.jpg

Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

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On 8/10/2023 at 4:53 PM, NeverEnoughCoins09 said:

how do you determine scrubbed or cleaning lines versus from being in circulation or other variables from over the years?

Coinbuf answered your question just fine. Circulation abrasion is also smoother in appearance because it is of lower pressure than deliberate cleaning and is random.

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I agree that any gold is a candidate for submitting, if only to verify authenticity. I am not saying your coin is counterfeit, but it is just that there are counterfeits out there. Imho, your coin would grade at low end AU, most likely AU 50. It has definitely been cleaned. Other than the hairlines, another "tell" is that the color around the raised details is different. Most cleanings involve some type of rubbing of the surface. Even cleaning a coin under a stream of water and using only the fingers will cause the raised details to have the surface affected, but the fingers cannot get into the small spaces between letters and numerals and the edges around the devices. This is especially evident on the reverse of your coin between the arrows and under the olive branch. I would say it would grade AU details. Unlike silver, though, gold coins do not drop precipitously in value due to a cleaning (unless the coin is in a high MS range) due to the gold content. Silver coins can lose a third to a half of their value depending on how badly the cleaning was done when trying to sell the coin. Gold is a little more stable in value and if yours got the AU designation might only be valued at base XF when selling.

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With sending stuff in for professional grading, my counsel is to ask yourself what is the desired result. Broadly speaking, is it profit or hobby? If it's profit, you have to think you're increasing its value by $60 or more, or that its value is worth confirming. Obviously, if the coin is only worth a fraction of the grading cost, the profit motive is probably mistaken. If it's hobby, there could be many reasons: you're doing a fully slabbed collection, you just want to be sure it's real or a certain variety, you are assembling a registry set, your grandfather gave it to you and you like it, whatever. All hobby reasons are valid because they don't require the math to work out to a financial benefit.

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