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1936 No Mint Mark Quarters, are they proofs?
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24 posts in this topic

 Are these coins worth having graded? Would they be proofs? Top one is mirrored.

Should I send them to Anacs being they are older? Are they considered problemed coins? 

Do you believe these are Type 2?

Do you see any errors?

Possible Grade?

Varieties, Attributions, and Error Research Verifications 

Should I apply this to either coin?

I am having issues with filling out paperwork. Trying hard to get close and just do not trust my judgement.

Pictures do not do them justice they are very pretty coins.

IMG-0290.jpg

IMG-0293.jpg

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Definately not proofs. I definately would not pay to have those graded. You can buy those in mint condition already graded for way cheaper than you can have those graded. Those arent worth very much at all in circulated condition. The reverse on the one has a big scratch and it wont straight grade anyways. You can buy both those in that condition for less than $20 if you shop around a little. They are both circulation strikes struck at the Philedelphia mint. Both are in circulated condition. 

Edited by Hoghead515
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    Your Washington quarters are dated 1956, not 1936. The top coin is in Choice Very Fine or so condition, the bottom just Very Fine and with scratches to boot. They have "Type A" reverses, with the "E" and "S" in "STATES" nearly touching and were definitely not struck as proofs. They're worth their silver value of $4 each or so, far below the $23 you would have to pay NGC as a per coin grading fee alone and far higher than what ANACS would charge as well. These coins belong in coin albums or folders, not certified holders.

   Have you at least obtained and studied a Red Book and a grading guide and attended some coin shows, as I recall I previously advised you? You will need years, if not a decade or more, of learning and experience before you should consider sending coins to grading services!

   It's great that you think that these circulated coins are beautiful, but here for your comparison are photos of a 1963 Washington quarter graded NGC Proof 68. Note the actual mirror surface, the higher relief of the "Type B" reverse and how the "E" and "S" are comparatively separated.

1434664109_1963quarterobv..thumb.jpg.d440f855b7143cc7bcb28a461908e09f.jpg


1393530735_1963quarterrev..thumb.jpg.efa242c43f94db4d2f6c2d896c58388e.jpg

 Here is a 1936-S NGC graded MS 65. Note the frosty luster and full details of an uncirculated coin struck for circulation, as well as the "Type A" reverse.

763844387_1936-Squarterobv..thumb.jpg.83016079feb5db4823feaa112926f214.jpg

1703535899_1936-Squarterrev..thumb.jpg.b38bc19ea32ad47c3fa2c9d1e77c6731.jpg

Edited by Sandon
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You have a pair of 1956 circulated album fillers. In the circulated condition they are in, if they appear "mirrored" as you state, they are either improperly cleaned or polished. Coins with that degree of circulation have long lost any cartwheel luster they had and would have surely begun the oxidation process as is typical of silver. They are not worth submitting.

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On 2/15/2023 at 9:17 PM, Hoghead515 said:

I believe I would put those in some 2x2 flips and take the money I was planning on spending to have them graded and buy a very beautiful lusterous mint state 1956 P already graded by NGC or PCGS. It will be alot cheaper. It cost quite a bit to have a coin graded. If its not a $200 coin its not worth grading unless you are a dealer or bulk submitter who gets a discount. And those 2 have a combined value of less than $20. Hope I dont come off as mean or anything. I seriously dont mean to sound that way. Im just trying to help you. You be better off learning more about coins before you start having them graded. Remeber you have all the shipping and handling fees and everything else on top the grading fees. 

I agree and don’t take no offense. I am trying to get better understanding. I am trying to find a show around as someone recommended but haven’t been able to find anything. 
I appreciate Truth from you guys for sure what I try to do is judge the coin then put down some of what I think it may be to be able to be corrected. I do study and look at the red book too hopefully I can eventually have a real person with helping me “live” in the flesh. 
UGH! It’s tough being a one man band. I watch Couch Collectables a lot. Who would y’all recommend with videos?

I still enjoy it regardless! 

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On 2/15/2023 at 8:43 PM, Lem E said:

Looks like a couple 56 not 36 coins and while not in terrible shape, not worth grading. They both look to have some circulation wear to them and maybe a few scratches. They don’t look like proofs to me.

Your right I put the wrong year 😂 thanks for making me aware.

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On 2/15/2023 at 8:51 PM, Coinbuf said:

Houston, we have a problem.

Learning from problems is what we have to do to get it right! I would rather ask the question and learn the correct answer than not ever know. cause I won’t learn. 
You guys are a true inspiration cause if your knowledge and input and I really appreciate it.
 

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On 2/15/2023 at 9:14 PM, Sandon said:

    Your Washington quarters are dated 1956, not 1936. The top coin is in Choice Very Fine or so condition, the bottom just Very Fine and with scratches to boot. They have "Type A" reverses, with the "E" and "S" in "STATES" nearly touching and were definitely not struck as proofs. They're worth their silver value of $4 each or so, far below the $23 you would have to pay NGC as a per coin grading fee alone and far higher than what ANACS would charge as well. These coins belong in coin albums or folders, not certified holders.

   Have you at least obtained and studied a Red Book and a grading guide and attended some coin shows, as I recall I previously advised you? You will need years, if not a decade or more, of learning and experience before you should consider sending coins to grading services!

   It's great that you think that these circulated coins are beautiful, but here for your comparison are photos of a 1963 Washington quarter graded NGC Proof 68. Note the actual mirror surface, the higher relief of the "Type B" reverse and how the "E" and "S" are comparatively separated.

1434664109_1963quarterobv..thumb.jpg.d440f855b7143cc7bcb28a461908e09f.jpg


1393530735_1963quarterrev..thumb.jpg.efa242c43f94db4d2f6c2d896c58388e.jpg

 Here is a 1936-S NGC graded MS 65. Note the frosty luster and full details of an uncirculated coin struck for circulation, as well as the "Type A" reverse.

763844387_1936-Squarterobv..thumb.jpg.83016079feb5db4823feaa112926f214.jpg

1703535899_1936-Squarterrev..thumb.jpg.b38bc19ea32ad47c3fa2c9d1e77c6731.jpg

Yes I am all over trying to find a show locally and look at my red book for guidance. 
I have like 30 old silver Quarters should I   Auction them on eBay as a lot ? 
Or one in each auction ? 
Is there something or specific quarter I should look for? Year?

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On 2/16/2023 at 8:26 AM, lcourtney123 said:

I watch Couch Collectables a lot. Who would y’all recommend with videos?

I would check out some of the ANA YouTube Video's they will give you some very good information. 

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   Although many of the coin videos on YouTube and the like are posted by ignorant or dishonest people, PCGS also has some good videos on YouTube, one of which is a series entitled, "The Elements of Grading." I think that NGC also has some videos. The U.S. Mint also has videos about how coins are manufactured, which are accessible on its website, usmint.gov, as well as on YouTube. 

   You really should get a printed photographic grading guide or at least avail yourself of the "Photograde" feature on the PCGS website, pcgs.com/photograde.

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On 2/15/2023 at 9:29 PM, lcourtney123 said:

 Are these coins worth having graded? Would they be proofs? Top one is mirrored.

Should I send them to Anacs being they are older? Are they considered problemed coins? 

Do you believe these are Type 2?

Do you see any errors?

Possible Grade?

Don't waste money on "grading." Their value is entirely in silver content.

Use the money you were going to spend on grading and take the wife to a nice dinner, and tell her how important she is.

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On 2/16/2023 at 1:02 PM, VKurtB said:

I would absolutely NOT RECOMMEND Couch Collectibles. He is an example of what’s wrong in this hobby. 

Thank you @VKurtB do you prefer someone special yourself? That’s what I need to know. I would rather watch and learn facts. I don’t do YouTube to much. 
Some recommendations would be great !

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On 2/16/2023 at 1:19 PM, lcourtney123 said:

Thank you @VKurtB do you prefer someone special yourself? That’s what I need to know. I would rather watch and learn facts. I don’t do YouTube to much. 
Some recommendations would be great !

The last time I watched ANY YouTube video, it was over 10 years ago, to get instructions on how to change the “inside the gas tank” fuel pump on a 1995 Subaru Wagon. I don’t do YouTube. I barely do websites. I’m a dead tree book man, through and through. I am a former state legislative staffer and I know most of what is on the web about my former employers is 🐂💩. Hence I do not trust internet sites much. The incentives are all screwed up. Sensationalism is rewarded; truth is not. 

Edited by VKurtB
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If you end up selling coins on eBay (or anywhere on the internet), it depends on the coin(s) in question. Refer to your price guides and red book and know the value of what you are selling. High end MS, as well as AU, XF, and low mintage, key dates, and desired varieties high dollar value coins should be listed individually with more than just two photos. Make sure any photos are clear, of good quality with sufficient lighting, and show the coin from different angles for raw coins. The more photos of both sides and even the rim are advisable on valuable coins so as to provide the seller the best visual they can have before they decide to buy your coin. It is important for your credibility as a seller to give the buyer the most information possible when they buy a coin from you and on the internet, the only way to do that is by having a number of good quality photos of each coin you are selling. [As a side note, several good photos also applies on here when asking questions].

For coins of lesser value say between $100-$10, I would still list each coin individually.

For coins of less than $10 and especially coins of value of $1 or less, cull, or otherwise common face value coins, it is difficult to sell these individually, and would be easier to sell in lot format.

Also, make sure you accept returns. If a customer is unhappy when they get your coin in hand, even after all the work to provide them with good photos and good details about the coin they purchased from you, you should allow them to return the coin.

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On 2/16/2023 at 2:02 PM, VKurtB said:

I would absolutely NOT RECOMMEND Couch Collectibles. He is an example of what’s wrong in this hobby. 

I second this statement!!

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On 2/15/2023 at 9:29 PM, lcourtney123 said:

I am having issues with filling out paperwork.

Step away from the writing utensil/keyboard. :fear:

On 2/15/2023 at 9:29 PM, lcourtney123 said:

Would they be proofs? Top one is mirrored.

Not even close. 

On 2/16/2023 at 8:26 AM, lcourtney123 said:

I watch Couch Collectables a lot. 

Pure rubbish, you'll learn more posting here than randomly searching YouTube. As a new collector your best option is to stay as far away from YouTube as possible.

The coins in the OP would be good finds in the wild, the start of a folder for a new collector, these are hardly worth the effort to sell and are far more valuable being gifted to a YN.

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On 2/16/2023 at 9:33 PM, EagleRJO said:

Agreed except for the ANA videos, many of which are excellent.

I'm with yah, but why even go to youtube when you can go right to the source, money.org ?

I'm not sure if all the videos are accessible for free on the website but there is plenty of good content regardless. Heck, I don't even collect U.S. coins, except from change, and I'm a member.

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