Advice on a 1000$ coin

[Davids5104]

I am going to possibly be in a position to acquire my first $1000 coin. If this happens which of these choices would you pick

 

1. 1916 D Mercury Dime

 

2. 1921D mercury Dime

 

3. 1942/1 Mercury dime

 

I understand grade and appearance all are important and that i get more grade with number 3, etc. What I am looking for though is if you were all spending 1000 dollars where would you throw it and why? Is there another coin that I should look at? I collect mercury and roosevelts and I currently do not have any coins worth more than $350 dollars so I need advice before dropping this money.

 

Looks like VG8-10 on the 16D and AU on the 21D are in range and a bit higher on the overdate

[Hard Times]

16-D for $1K you get a G4. Wait for something better and save up for it - even if you are talking years to saving, a better grade will be worth it for your collection.

 

21-D you can get a AU50-53 coin - get a pq one and pay up for it, make sure it has a CAC sticker - one of JA's specialties is identifying and rejecting coins with too much human assistance/intervention and that happens alot in AU grades, this date has been growing in price well over the past decade, so buying now and holding will be a good thing if you pick the right one.

 

42/1 - if you wait long enough, you can probably cherry pick one of these for a strong price discount as this is a variety and many nonspecialist dealers won't know about it or bother to look closely at the date. But if you find one in a 42 holder without the designation - snag it pdq.

 

So in the short term, the 21-D, over time stretch for a better grade for the 16-D, and spend some time looking to cherry pick a 42/1 so you get more value that going with one already in a slab with that designation.

 

Best, HT

[jom]

If you want to ask an opinion such as this you should ask about a SPECIFIC coin. Another words I'd focus on which coin is nice and that you like rather than which date it is.

 

jom

[MarkFeld]

If you're asking strangers on a forum, my thought is to save your money...until you know enough about what you want so that you can decide on your own.

[physics-fan3.14]

Honestly, my thought is "none of the above." I have no idea what your collecting interests or goals are (obviously, Mercury Dimes are high on your list). But to me, the coins you have listed are super boring supposed-rarities.

 

I would much rather have a really nice classic Bust type coin for the price you quote. But, that's just me.

[MarkVIIIMarc]

Is this coin an investment which matters? Or is it just for fun like when I dump a grand in a Food axle? I hate overpaying but it is essentially spent money my estate may recover some of when they sell my 68.

[Davids5104]

Thanks for some of the insights. I am against the 16D at this point. I think I would rather be hanging out in the XF range on that specific coin, which of course carries with it a different price point.

[david3142]

Any particular reason why you are planning to spend it all on one coin? You could get most of the Mercury set in mint state for $1K.

[e1cnr]

I would look at a nice 1936 proof in 65/66 in NGC/PCGS with nice eye appeal - the ones you mention seem kind of blah to me in the grades you would be limited too.

[coinman_23885]

16-D for $1K you get a G4. Wait for something better and save up for it - even if you are talking years to saving, a better grade will be worth it for your collection.

 

21-D you can get a AU50-53 coin - get a pq one and pay up for it, make sure it has a CAC sticker - one of JA's specialties is identifying and rejecting coins with too much human assistance/intervention and that happens alot in AU grades, this date has been growing in price well over the past decade, so buying now and holding will be a good thing if you pick the right one.

 

42/1 - if you wait long enough, you can probably cherry pick one of these for a strong price discount as this is a variety and many nonspecialist dealers won't know about it or bother to look closely at the date. But if you find one in a 42 holder without the designation - snag it pdq.

 

So in the short term, the 21-D, over time stretch for a better grade for the 16-D, and spend some time looking to cherry pick a 42/1 so you get more value that going with one already in a slab with that designation.

 

Best, HT

 

+1

[PerryHall]

Whatever you get, make sure it's in a major grading service slab---especially the 16-D dime which is heavily plagued with added mintmarks.

[BustDime1811]

Well personally I would go for a nice early type coin long before I would go for a 20th century supposed "rarity" (of which there are currently dozens available on the market). Just my 2 and 1/2 cents.

[Matt_dac]

What a fun problem to have!

Buy whatever coin you will enjoy the most and be sure it has been professionally graded (I prefer PCGS or NGC). I would also steer clear of any 'details' graded coins.

[Walkerfan]

I'd throw in a little extra and buy the 1921-D in AU 58.

 

I'm all about condition.

 

The other coins you would not be able to afford in that grade with that type of money. JMHO.

[World Colonial]

I'd throw in a little extra and buy the 1921-D in AU 58.

 

I'll all about condition.

 

The other coins you would not be able to afford in that grade with that type of money. JMHO.

 

If limited to one of the three coins listed, I agree with your comments. I absolutely would not buy the 16-D in VG for $1000.

[numisport]

Like e1cnr, I think proof Mercury Dimes are a god deal at todays prices. With patience you can buy 2 proof 67 coins with clean spot free surfaces or a knockout cameo looking proof 67 Star coin of 1939 for that thousand bucks.

[Davids5104]

Any particular reason why you are planning to spend it all on one coin? You could get most of the Mercury set in mint state for $1K.

 

I have a fair number of the mercury dimes already. I have 90 percent of the 1938-1945.

 

I have never gotten into the proof mercs that a handful of people commented on. I guess since I have never made a purchase of this degree I was fishing for in-sight. I would never buy any of these coins raw. I suppose I do not have to use the entire $1000 on a single coin, but since I can see myself buying a 500 dollar coin before a $1000 dollar one, thought i should do this instead.

[david3142]

It really depends on your goals. If you plan to complete the set then you're going to have to get a 16-D at some point, and it is going to cost the better part of $1000 in any collectible grade. If you aren't worried about completion, it's a different question. I'm a set builder myself, so it's harder for me to see other perspectives, but the box of 20 approach makes sense too.

 

[halfhunter]

Just me but I would look for a solid 1921 Peace dollar with above average hair & feather detail. With a lot of hunting and some patience , you should be able to find a really cool MS-64 for 1K or less.

The Peace $ seems to have a growing collector base recently and have lot going for them; First year of mintage, one year type coin, most went into circulation, and on the vast majority the hair is so flat that one could fry a pancake on it.

 

Go BIG with that 1st K and the next 1K purchase will be easier!

 

JMO and you know what they say about opinions . . .

 

HH