JKK

Absolutely send it in so that you can get independent confirmation of your ID and big score!

Why is everyone so quiet now muckspread found  a 50 thousand dollor coin . 😘 karma a mf 🍺

No. Different context. In this case it just means our big dollar coins, finishing with the Ike.

So it seems that one coin recruited three of its friends, and each of those recruited three of their friends, and so on. Nice!

Yes. The U in particular is diagnostic, and unlike the WE, is often not worn off.

"No more...Mr. Nice Numismatist!"

So it seems that one coin recruited three of its friends, and each of those recruited three of their friends, and so on. Nice!

"No more...Mr. Nice Numismatist!"

Fortunately, we don't have anyone here who would be that ridiculous, especially since people bringing us junk coins they suppose to be rare errors always heed the collective PMD wisdom we offer.

Oh, wait.

Fortunately, we don't have anyone here who would be that ridiculous, especially since people bringing us junk coins they suppose to be rare errors always heed the collective PMD wisdom we offer.

Oh, wait.

Fortunately, we don't have anyone here who would be that ridiculous, especially since people bringing us junk coins they suppose to be rare errors always heed the collective PMD wisdom we offer.

Oh, wait.

Fortunately, we don't have anyone here who would be that ridiculous, especially since people bringing us junk coins they suppose to be rare errors always heed the collective PMD wisdom we offer.

Oh, wait.

From "crud" to "critters" in four pages.

Copy/paste from a thread on the Numista forum (poster was pnightingale):
"The good news is that the more expensive the coin, the easier it is to restore it. Gold coins don't ever really get much of a patina to have to worry about destroying it, less so silver coins and copper / bronze are the most likely to suffer but generally the cheapest. If you have any doubts about your abilities then ask your local coin dealer if he would do the job for you, at least for the more valuable specimens.

It's also important to understand that there is always a risk any time you attempt something like this and the risk falls entirely on your shoulders, not on those giving free advice.

So having got all that out of the way, let's put together some kind of batting order starting with the least drastic. These steps can be applied to all the coins and you should know when to stop. Don't fall into the trap of being so pleased with the early results that you continue making improvements until the coin is ruined.

Water. Warm, not hot and a lot a patience. I like to soak my coins in warm full sun on the kitchen window although my wife doesn't think much of it. . It sounds like the glue was applied some time ago so if it's the older type made from animal by products (horse bones) there a good chance it might simply dissolve. Note that it dissolves, not disappears. It leaves the coins and turns the water into a glue soup which now covers the entire surface. Repeat the soaking with clean warm water and keep rinsing and repeating until it's so diluted as to be non existent.

Next step is to try a gentle soap. I prefer liquid hand soap because I don't believe that dish soap or washing up liquid is quite as benign as we might think. (Yeah Rick even mild green fairy liquid, imagine that sung in a cracked baritone. Happy dreams brother.) This is quite a minority opinion so I'll expand a little. All detergents contain some type of degreasing agent otherwise, well.... they wouldn't work! What you are trying to do is remove the glue without removing the patina. This patina is AKA toning and is caused by many factors including airborne impurities, UV light..... and oils from dirty lil' fingers. So.... I'm suspicious of using something with a grease removing element on something which is made more desirable by greasy, long dead fingers. So repeat step one with a bit of soap and warmth.

Next I'd be going straight to the alcohol or acetone. I don't have much experience of the former apart from habitually abusing it but plenty of folks claim it's harmless. The same claims are made for acetone but it has a nasty habit of sometimes turning old copper a nasty pink color. I've never seen it do any harm to other metals though. This is the point where I'd be inclined to call it a draw.

If everything else has failed then it's time to get a toothpick out and try to physically crack the glue away. Or in the case of silver coins you can dip them, removing the glue along with the natural tone. Either choice is far from perfect. Don't be tempted to scrub away at the coin with a brush of polishing tool, you will just ruin it.

Finally, if you have succeeded, take a moment to finish the job off properly by making sure the coin is completely dry and free from lingering residues before putting it in an album or flip, or you'll be right back where you started after a few months. If the coin now has a patchy tone where the glue used to be it will even out over time. You can however take steps to hasten the natural process by creating an ideal toning environment. This has been discussed at some length already so a forum search on toning coins will point you in the right direction."

Just another service I offer with a smile.

I'm not sure you should let yourself be topless in the picture like that, Karen, though it's absolutely none of my business to suggest how you should do anything in your own house.

Just another service I offer with a smile.

I'm not sure you should let yourself be topless in the picture like that, Karen, though it's absolutely none of my business to suggest how you should do anything in your own house.

I was actually wondering why there's a full on deep fryer above an unsuspecting man in a tub but I've seen way too many true crime docs to know where that's going.

I'm not sure you should let yourself be topless in the picture like that, Karen, though it's absolutely none of my business to suggest how you should do anything in your own house.

I'm not sure you should let yourself be topless in the picture like that, Karen, though it's absolutely none of my business to suggest how you should do anything in your own house.

I think a lot of dealers dip all their dingy Morgans in ammonia (or something). If you see a display case with not a single dingy-looking Morgan, might start to ask yourself how they all got so pretty. Then again, I think a lot of dealers are coin-doctoring maniacs.
I don't think MS70 is meant as a dip, but a soak. I've had good luck with using it to decrudulate coins, but the point was always that they were crudulated to begin with, and were never going to be worth much, so my liability was limited. The objective there is to loosen up the crud so that it will respond to other removal efforts (I don't recommend a q-tip). Had I suspected any of them were rare, I'd have sent them in to be cleaned conserved conserved conserved (I keep forgetting, sorry) by professionals.

Two very crucial things about any sort of chemical treatment:
Clean it the hell off completely (as in not "okay, that's good enough," like the typical person who does everything half-baked, but as in "there is now officially no way in the world any residue could possibly remain"). Normally that's done with a sustained rinse in water (I think distilled is mostly preferred). Many, many once-appealing coins still show dip residue that has become the new crudulation. For the most part, pat it dry without rubbing. I'm not sure how possible it is to make a cloth soft enough to rub a coin with; they are all, like paper, made of tiny fibers. With any pressure, they are very likely to leave tiny scratches. What I do is pull a couple of paper towels, fold them up, put the coin in one, press very firmly so that the paper will contact every possible crevice and wick out water, then remove coin from that towel and do it again with the second, fresh, dry paper towel. One thing that's fun is to use Nic-a-lene to bring out lost dates on old Buffs. If you see an old Buff with no date and a dark stain on the mound, congrats, that one was Nic-a-lened by a careless dolt. The method there: be near the faucet and have the paper towels handy. Put just enough Nic-a-lene (it's just ferric chloride in solution) on the mound to cover it; the perfect coverage is the whole mound and nothing but. Then stare the drop down, looking very close. The instant you see the date become legible, under the faucet it goes, and there it stays for a good twenty seconds before pat-down. You see, there is a brief window of time before the Nic-a-lene eats the resurrected date (as in the case of the dolts), after which I doubt you get a second chance.

My guess is that the reason this is even possible is because the metal forced into the high points of the date is compressed, and thus will resist the chemical for a brief time. It's still a Nic-a-lened coin, of course, and the drop area color is now an unnaturally bright one that contrasts with the usual dull color, but you can temporarily fill a number of slots with these because a) most people do it wrong and b) a lot of dateless Buffs are dateless because they are older and saw more circulation. A dateless nickel was still worth five cents at the corner store.

Imagine a whole thread about coins, cleaning, crudulation, and so on, forty-four posts and counting, and not one single post about hippo muckspreading. I suspect shenanigans.

Coin is invisible. Doubt that this happened at the mint.