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Bignubnumismatics

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Posts posted by Bignubnumismatics

  1.  

    On 8/20/2022 at 7:51 PM, RWB said:

    While working on the SG DE book, I got some old population reports from PCGS and NGC. They were for the period surrounding the 1908 DE appearance. I'll check to be sure that's not a faulty memory.

    Found 'em but they cover only SG DE from PCGS and NGC and are from Nov 2014. That's all I have.

     


     

    I appreciate it. There are pretty good third part census on the holders, but they are incomplete.

  2. On 8/19/2022 at 2:30 PM, DWLange said:

    There is no general agreement among experts. Unworn pieces seem to be all or mostly proofs, but there are quite a few worn ones that tend to suggest currency strikes, too. Mint records are of no help in settling the matter.

    There is no smoking gun in mint records, but they certainly point towards a direction. It’s all conjecture at that point, unfortunately. Really only thing to ‘settle’ it would be precedent set by other similar issues. Unfortunately, I think the most similar coin in nature is the 1856 flying eagle, which has the same problems.

  3. Photos are hard to tell, that being said.

     

    1883-O & 84-O Morgan’s are the most common Morgans available in UNC. Yours looks like a 62 if not cleaned from the photos (lighting is difficult to properly asses the coin).

    unless you are bulk submitting coins, the common NO coins are really only worth submitting if it would 65 or higher.

    so your coin is. It worth submitting and I think if you were to sell it raw $40-45 would be a good price

  4. Yes, often times coins will have several top-pops, depends on the series. Every coin is different. Being top-pop doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the only one, just that it was one of the highest graded for that particular example. If 4 MS-68 coins exist they are all top-pop.

    SINGLE top-pop or SOLE top-pop coins are the highest with non being tied or above. I.e an MS-68+ Rosie with the next highest being MS-68.

  5. I am nearing the end of my high school days and have to start thinking about future careers. I am extremely passionate about numismatics, and I would love for my great hobby to be my career. I have been to the Summer Seminar (several times had it not been for this virus) and am in the middle of completing the ANA's Numismatic Diploma Program. Are there any tips or other actions I should take to make the dream become a reality? 

  6. My club is looking for some numismatic "philisophical" questions to put in our online newsletter with answers from our members. We've come up with a few, but I'd like to see what more knowledgeable members have to ask. We're not looking for some "If a man sees a circulated proof nickel in cashier's drawer, do you tell him it is counterfeit and swindel out of them?" but more along the lines of "If you slab a coin that ends up with a grade worth 6 figures and you were hoping for a 65, do you sell it and complete the collection or keep it?"  

     

    Any and all comments, questions, jokes are appreciated :)

  7. That is why, but also because they get paid for most of the labels. I know people who have put together sets that get pedigress free of charge, but anyone can get their coin holdered with their name on it for the right price.

    I think a lower level coin with such a pedigree would bring more because "if someone had all of this money and bought a 64 1938-D buffalo nickel, surely that coin is worth more than anything I could buy." type of thought prevails. With a coin like this, no one can afford it.

  8. They look like drop marks to me as well, but if indeed scrapes, I don't know why. There are plenty of options that don't include ruining part of the coin. I would think just a close look would be able to determine the authenticity of the piece, and holding it by the face of the coin doesn't hurt it much either.

  9. If you have the time and the money, I suggest going to the ANA's grading course at summer seminar. You and all the other YNs can learn the ropes on grading and hopefully avoid another sad experience like this. You could also just take 4 points off what you think the coin would grade to get an accurate grade. 

    Most coins I look at graded have 0 marks at 65, 1 or 2 barely noticeable marks at the most, after that it is all eye appeal and market grading. Grading until uncirculated is textbook, after that, experience is the only way to learn. 

    The majority of dealers I communicate with regard PCGS with a higher esteem than NGC, and bluesheet prices mirror this. Maybe that "TPG" you cracked the coin out of was probably just an SGS or PCI holder.