KyCoinKollektor

I respect everyone’s input and I frankly do not know myself, I only have knowledge of American coinage so this is all new to me. I’ve got the money to take the gamble so I’ll take a shot in the dark and send it in anyway just to see. Again thanks everyone for there input. It is silver though for sure so that’s what’s throwing me for a loop. Fake or not I still think it was a cool find for my very first time beach detecting and in the first 5-10 minutes at that.

I have found out that this coin is indeed real. Took it to several coin shops in the area and all 3 said it looked real. It was acid tested and passed for silver. It is a silver pillars with waves, Found that it is 8 reales, made in 1790-98, mint mark is Peru. I’m completely blown away, and next step is to send it in for grading. 

1 hour ago, Alex in PA. said:

How's the weather at the beach?  Must be a nice day for searching.

It’s been raining all day but I like it that way it cuts down on a lot of people being out so I can keep straight lines as I search. 

So here I am at st Augustine beach metal detecting this morning and found this on the shores about 8” down. My hopes are not high at all on this and I’m leaning towards a fantasy/gift shop coin but I figured why not get your all input since I have no testing acids/scales/loupes or any other tools I would normally use to help identify this. It is metal and it is also NOT magnetic. But it is just to clean looking. Thanks for any input and happy Father Day everyone!

On 5/14/2020 at 1:13 PM, Mathguy1986 said:

Hello again everyone, it's been a while since I had a question but I was curious about the hand signed labels. Are the signatures on each label a live signature? Meaning they are hand written. By a real person on each label individually? I know this question seems very basic but I bought a signed slab from pcgs a w quarter and was curious about it.

 

Dr. S

Wether all or some of them are, which some are definitely hand signed, you must keep in mind when sending a coin off for grading that you cannot get a coin graded with a signature label unless you are a authorized dealer. You may know that already but if not it might save you some time and money. Especially if you only want a coin to come back with a Signature label.

On 1/14/2021 at 5:15 AM, MarkFeld said:

I wouldn’t assume it’s an unauthorized transaction. There might be language authorizing such charges as part of the membership and/or submission agreement that was signed by the submitter. But either way, I think it would make a lot more sense to discuss it with NGC first.

I would agree with this statement, while still very bad service by not giving a heads up. But it could very likely be an insurance adjustment or shipping fee adjustment that just carried over to the him which is indeed an authorized transaction. 

14 hours ago, bhauck86 said:

Here are a few more pictures. 

Looks like a heavily damaged parking lot penny to me! 

What you have is a 1929 penny, I’m sorry to tell you but it is what it is.

19 minutes ago, Bubblebling said:

Greetings. I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this question, but I def am a newbie.

I recently read an article that described a big study that they did on selling coins on eBay.

They studied a lot of different variables such as what kind of photos sold best, etc.

One of thier findings was that starting a coin auction with a 99 cent minimum sold the best.

I don't know about you, but I would be leery of putting a 99 cent minimum on a coin that can easily fetch hundreds.

The thinking here is, if the coin really is worth a lot, potential buyers will know this, and bid the price up to fair value.

I'm don't feel so keen on this practice of putting a 99 cent minimum on a valuable coin.

I think that I would put a minimum somewhere around what I think is fair value for the coin.

How do you feel about this?

The only thing you can do if u have a coin worth $500 and say it sells at auction for $20 is cancel the sale. More than likely you are still going to be forced to pay final value fees and you will get a negative seller rating from the winning bidder which is really bad because nobody will buy coins from someone with a bad seller rating. But you are correct this forum probably isn’t the best place to ask this question because in all of your other post here you are not willing to listen to anyone!

23 minutes ago, Just Bob said:

Looks polished to me, too.

Good luck with the re-submittal.

Here’s the coin out of its flip, it’s definitely not been polished. 

6 minutes ago, bsshog40 said:

I'm not sure if green slime would be considered altered surfaces. The coin looks to have been polished which would make more sense to me. JMO

I seen on NGC website they consider green slime to be an altered surface due to the fact they cannot see what lies beneath the obstruction. I got the green slime off now I’m gonna send it to pcgs and at least if it still comes back altered it will be slabbed.

Though it is bitter sweet I got my subs back today, my 1876 trade dollar came back as altered surfaces. I’m happy it’s a type 2/2 though.which is extremely rare. I Put it under a scope and found some green slime in between the dentils so I am assuming that’s why it came back altered. 

2 minutes ago, Bubblebling said:

Thanks Kycoincollector.

By "graded", I assume you mean slabbed? I'm not too keen on slabbed coins. But I think if I got a brilliant gem proof, this should be good.

Yes

Just to give you some insight on roll hunting and how lucrative it can be, while this is no life changing amount of money, I search rolls of Sacajawea dollars on a daily basis about 10-12 rolls a day and found two not to long ago that has errors. They sold yesterday on eBay for $700. I had only $2 investment for that return. And I’ll take that money and buy graded rare coins if I can buy them for 60-70% of they’re value. I’ll Never pay more than 80% unless it’s top pop and highly sought after variety. But 60-70 for me is key and that leave me room for profit.

Beings that you are new I highly suggest you keep your money, coin collecting is a harsh game and before you learn the ins and outs your going to lose money. And since you only have $600 you obviously don’t have the money to start in this roller coaster of a venture. Start really small and only buy graded coins. For every authentic coin out there is a thousand fakes. Read, research, read again and when your done read and research some more. Never stop learning this is a very unforgiving game and all it takes is one wrong move on the wrong coin before there is no turning back and then you lose complete interest in collecting. If your patient and set your sights on what your looking for you will eventually find a good deal to flip but don’t spend your nest egg with no knowledge. Your best bet starting off is roll hunting from bank sealed rolls not from eBay from a brick and mortar bank looking for errors and silver to start off with. There is absolutely no risk whatsoever in roll hunting. Collecting is very fun and rewarding if you take the time to do it right, good luck and happy hunting. 

1 minute ago, VKurtB said:

None even tied for finest known. That’s what “Populatio 1” and “Pop Higher 0” means. 

I know def. of population I’ve just never heard of the term peer. Ty for teaching me something 

6 minutes ago, VKurtB said:

It is literally the finest known with no peer.

No peer?

The reason I asked is I know the difference it I seen this one on pcgs app and there is no contrast difference between the fields and devices, which made me question what the heck I’ll ask. Can u all maybe explain why this one was deemed scam?

12 hours ago, JT2 said:

That's a good looking high grade brilliant proof.  she a keeper.

Bought it for $3.12 on eBay 🎰 with free shipping as well. 

Thanks guys 

20 minutes ago, bsshog40 said:

It looks like a proof but with the pics, no way of telling cameo or condition. 

Updated pics with my wife’s phone

I have this 1959 P Washington quarter. Do you all think it’s MS, Cameo Proof, or a Deep Cameo Proof? Thanks
 

11 minutes ago, Juanda7777 said:

Hello I just found this in the same roll they look amazing can someone tell me please if they are large date or small date and how can I send them for grading?? Thanks.

If your dead set on getting them graded I would go with number #3 of the top graders. These are not worth a lot unless you get top pop and I feel these won’t come close. Maybe a 63-65 and they have to be deemed as RD  as well to get any value at all. I honestly would just save the money your more than likely not gonna re-coupe your investment if your planning on reselling. Just my opinion though,  because they are not a key date or variety. 

I been seeing some articles about the mint producing 2021 Morgan and peace dollars to commemorate the 100 year anniversary since the last produced Morgan. Can anyone tell me the opening preorder date and the place to order these I can’t find anything on the US mint site. I can find a 2021 Morgan dollar on APMEX but don’t know if it’s just a medal or the actual legal tender coin. I would like to have a first release set.