Sandon

See https://www.error-ref.com/?s=missing+clad+layer for photos and descriptions of coins that were actually minted with part or all of the cladding layer missing. None of them resembles this coin.

@Glynn K.--Welcome to the NGC chat board. For future reference, it is preferable to post your own questions as new topics instead of including them in replies to someone else's topic. I have been collecting U.S. coins for nearly 53 years and learned to grade from and remain fond of the Brown & Dunn and Photograde grading guides, which I still have and generally prefer to the inordinately complex and nuanced current grading standards. Unfortunately, they are now obsolete. First of all, these older grading guides largely do not deal with the grading of uncirculated ("Mint State") and proof coins, which now comprehend eleven different whole number numerical grades, as well as "plus" grades between the whole number grades and strike, surface and color qualifiers and are the focus of most grading issues nowadays. Small differences in the numerical grade or qualifier of an uncirculated coin can mean a substantial difference in its market value. Later editions of Photograde, such as my 1988 17th Edition, comment critically on the numerical grading of uncirculated coins but do not define standards for each grade. Additionally, the grading standards for circulated coins are also now more complex and have changed significantly. There are now at least two different numerical grades for circulated grades of "Good" and better, with Very Fine and About Uncirculated comprehending four different numerical grades each. An Indian cent graded "F 12" or even "F 15" by a top tier grading service may not have a fully readable "LIBERTY" on the Indian's headband if other features are considered sufficiently detailed, nor will a "VF 20" Buffalo nickel necessarily have a visible tip of the Buffalo's horn nor a "VF 20" "Mercury" dime fully visible diagonal bands. I'm surprised at @Coinbuf's response. I don't think that Photograde would be helpful in determining whether the grade of his uncirculated Lincoln cents or whether they should be designated "RD" or "RB".

Please see the following forum topics that identify print and online resources for new collectors:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. I assume that you are asking how to add photos of your coins in the NGC Registry. Please see the following topic for instructions: You can also add photos through your "My Competitive Coins" page instead of the "My Competitive Sets" page. You have to upload the images from files on your computer. If your coins were certified by NGC since about 2008, the NGC photos of the entire holder appear automatically but can be changed to your own as shown on the above topic. Please note that extensive instructions for use of the NGC Registry are available through the "About" and "Help/FAQ" bars at the left side of the registry home page, as well as on the "NGC Registry" forum on this chat board. NGC Registry Help and Instructions - NGC Coin Collectors Chat Boards. The NGC Administrator monitors and usually responds to inquiries on the "NGC Registry" forum but does not monitor the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum.

I purchased this 1934 Lincoln cent that PCGS graded MS 66 RD at a coin club auction last night.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Please note that the "Coin Marketplace" forum is for postings of coins that you would like to sell or purchase at stated prices and otherwise in compliance with the "Coin Marketplace Guidelines" topic posted at the beginning of the forum. Topics asking questions about coins by new collectors or non-collectors receive best attention if posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum. The Indian cents in your "Library of Coins" album dating from over 60 years ago are all common dates, and based on your photos all appear to be well worn with some showing damage or areas of corrosion. They are worth at most a few dollars apiece and are definitely not worth the cost of appraising. Indian cents dated from 1866 to 1879 and the 1908-S and 1909-S are the ones that may be worth significant premiums even in lower grades, with the 1877 and 1909-S having the most value. I assume that the 1908 and 1909 dated coin in your album do not have an "S" mintmark on the reverse below the wreath. Other pieces dated1880-1909 might only be worth significant premiums if in higher grades (Extremely Fine or better) with the word "LIBERTY" appearing clear and sharp on the Indian's headband. FYI, here are photos of an 1895 Indian cent in Choice Uncirculated condition, with part of its original mint color and worth approximately $200 in this condition:

1866 Liberty Seated dime, PCGS graded VF details, surface damage. Though not the nicest looking coin, it is a rare date (8,000 minted). Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

The mark on the horse's leg is a "milling mark" from the reeded edge of another coin striking this coin after being ejected from the coinage press into the container below the press or possibly when it was in a mint bag with thousands of other coins. This is not considered a mint error and would lower the grade of the coin. The coin also shows wear from circulation and is worth face value.

The deformity at the rim could be a minor (and worthless) rim cud but is more likely minor rim damage. The line to the right of the "9" is clearly a scratch. A die crack would be raised, not depressed, and you can see displaced metal piled on each side. (Moreover, die cracks are very common on coins of this era and generally add no value.) The material inside the "9" and around other numerals is likely an accumulation of encrusted dirt and/or corrosion product. The deformity on the "8" is clearly a scrape, with the displaced metal pushed to the top right of the "8". All of these forms of minor damage are the norm on well-circulated coins, especially heavy ones such as silver dollars. Additionally, bear in mind that die varieties are generally not considered significant if they can't readily be seen with 5-7x magnification. See What is a Variety? | NGC (ngccoin.com) (last sentence).

This 1993-P Roosevelt dime doesn't appear to have a repunched mintmark. One photo shows a light secondary image that is likely strike doubling. Doubleddie.com states that "in 1990 and 1991 the Mint began applying the mint mark for circulating coins to the master die. After 1994 the mint mark was applied directly to the original model for all U.S. coins thus ending the RPM and OMM era." See https://www.doubleddie.com/58243.html, which also includes good photos of actual RPMs. Neither doubleddie.com, varietyvista.com, nor NGC VarietyPlus lists any RPMs for Roosevelt dimes dated after 1989.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Your photos are still too washed out and uncropped for me to tell for sure whether this 1953-D Lincoln cent that you received in change has original "red" color or, as is more likely the case, has been chemically altered ("cleaned") to have a shiny appearance. It appears that the coin has a pinkish rather than orange color, which suggests that the color is not original. It also appears to have high point "rub" that would preclude an uncirculated grade. (On your latest photos it appears to have a more natural appearance but appears spotted and finger marked from improper handling.) Even if the coin is in uncirculated condition (also unlikely if received in change) and the color is original, the coin is a common one with a mintage of over 700 million pieces with many uncirculated rolls saved and worth a few dollars or (likely) less in any uncirculated grade it would be likely to achieve. In circulated grades, common date "wheat" cents like this trade in bulk for a few cents each. I assume that you meant to ask, "Is it worth submitting to a third-party grading service?" As submitting this coin to NGC would entail a membership fee, a $23 grading fee, a $10 per order processing fee, a minimum $28 per order return shipping fee, and the cost of shipping the coin to NGC, the answer is obviously "no". Individual coins should be worth at least several hundred dollars to be worth submitting, and to determine this, you need to have a substantial knowledge of how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself. This requires some years of study and experience. See the following forum topics for pertinent print and online resources: Contrary to what you may have seen on the internet, it is extremely unusual to find any significant mint error or die variety among circulating coins. In over 50 years of collecting, I have never found any such coin and only know one person who ever has. In the case of a mint error, it would likely be something pretty spectacular, in the case of my acquaintance, a Lincoln cent that had been overstruck by Jefferson nickel dies. The second topic linked above contains links to several articles and websites concerning mint errors. In terms of photography, my photos, taken with a digital microscope, aren't of professional quality either, but a properly cropped coin photo looks like this one, which is of a fully original "red" uncirculated 1944-S Lincoln cent that NGC graded MS 66 RD:

The star ("*") grade is only awarded by NGC and is not recognized by the A.N.A. Grading Guide. It indicates what NGC regards as exceptional eye appeal for the grade, which includes a coin that is regarded (by some) as having unusually "attractive" toning. The brown and speckly toning on these coins was referred to as "tarnish" when I began collecting and was regarded as ugly and undesirable. I still do. The iridescent toning may be attractive, but it is often a matter of opinion whether it occurred naturally or was artificially contrived. The "FT" means that the two bands at the bottom of the torch are complete, which isn't very unusual on either the 1948 or 1948-D issue. I personally find the prices paid for some of these coins absurd, especially when the coin is a common one like these Roosevelt dimes. The people who buy these coins are usually registry set competitors who, as far as I am concerned, have more money than sense. I would just as soon have nice, brilliant "white" examples of these coins, which have NGC Price Guide values of $20 and $25 respectively if graded MS 65 FT and are likely available for $10 or so apiece uncertified.

CPG lists this variety in AU 50 at $195, Coin World at $175, the NGC Price Guide at $200, and the PCGS Price Guide at $165. It's strongly advisable to consult price guides before buying coins. The NGC and PCGS guides are available free online.

Although you are welcome to post your latest acquisitions as new topics if you prefer, there is a long running and popular topic on the "U.S., World, and Ancient Coins" forum entitled "Post Your Most Recent Acquisition: U.S." that you may want to use instead. See Post your most recent acquisition: US - Page 695 - US, World, and Ancient Coins - NGC Coin Collectors Chat Boards for the most recent posts. There are similar topics on Morgan dollars, five cent pieces, copper coins, silver coins, gold coins and others. I assume that this 1892-S Morgan dollar was third party graded VF 25. It appears to be housed in an older PCGS holder. The 1892-S is an issue that is relatively common in circulated grades through VF but is considered to be scarcer in higher circulated grades and a rarity (five or more figures) in any uncirculated grade. Apparently, much of this issue went into circulation long ago, most of any that were retained by the Treasury were melted as a result of the 1918 Pittman Act, and very few uncirculated pieces were included among the several hundred million uncirculated Morgan dollars that were released through 1964. In VF 25 the (often high) PCGS Price Guide lists a retail value of $250. Other retail guides to which I have access don't have specific listings for VF 25 but have VF 20 listings of $195 (CPG), $150 (Coin World), and $185 (NGC Price Guide). What price guide did you use to value this coin before you purchased it?

1887, 7 over 6 copper nickel three cent piece, PCGS graded PR 65 CAM:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Although I am unable to identify your coins, please allow me to give you some advice. 1. Your topic would receive better attention from those forum members who might be able to assist you if posted on the "U.S., World, and Ancient Coins" or the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum, as the "NGC Registry" forum is devoted to topics pertaining to the NGC registry for certified coins. (The Administrator may move it.) 2. You should post photos that are cropped to show the coin as much as possible and not its surrounding surface. 3. If you believe that these coins have collector value, you should not touch them with your bare hands, except by their edges if you must. Such mishandling may cause the coins to become discolored, more worn, and consequently of less value.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Please provide upright photos of each side of this 2019-D Roosevelt dime that are cropped to show the coin to the greatest extent possible and not the surface on which it sits. Based on what I can see so far, the coin has just been severely damaged after it left the mint and is not a mint error.

1874 copper nickel three cent piece with obverse "strikethrough", NGC graded MS 64: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

In reviewing your previous topics, I see that I have already tried to explain to you that you must learn to grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself before you consider submitting them to third-party grading services and have directed you to resources which should help you to obtain the required knowledge. This is a process that will take you some years of study of these resources and of the coins themselves. Based upon the single obverse photo of the 1969-S cent you show here, it is not full mint "red" and has several prominent nicks and scratches. (It is definitely not the extremely rare doubled die variety, which features clear, crisp doubling on the obverse date and lettering.) Its approximate grade would be MS 63 RB (red and brown), a grade at which Coin World values it at all of fifteen cents and the NGC Price Guide, which apparently presumes that coins have already been third party graded, shows a retail value of $5. The minimum "Modern" tier NGC grading fee for this coin would be $19, to which would be added a share of the order's $10 processing fee, the $28 return shipping fee, and the cost of shipping the coin to NGC. Even a full "red" Gem example graded MS 66 RD has an NGC Price Guide value of only $30. How could it possibly make sense to submit this coin? The 1969-S cent had a mintage of over 544 million pieces. The collectors of that era were quite interested in the "S" mint cents of 1968-74 and saved many 5,000-coin mint sealed bags and 50-coin uncirculated rolls of them. Each of the over 1.8 million 1969 "mint sets" also contained a "red" uncirculated example. I and other young and casual collectors of that time took a number of them out of circulation. Only a superb Gem achieving a grade of at least MS 67 RD (NGC Price Guide value $400) would be worthy of submission. Even if you had the required knowledge and acquired a mint sealed bag and went through it, you might not find an example that would have a chance of receiving such a lofty grade. I strongly encourage you to learn a lot more about coins before you consider submitting any to third-party grading services. Have you attended any coin shows where you could see actual high-grade pieces?

I'm sorry to hear what happened to you. I assume that you have also taken this matter up with eBay. It appears to me that the seller stole your money, not the coin. (Perhaps he never actually owned it.) I agree that your attorneys should advise you as to your course of action.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. It is unclear whether you are trying to report that this rare 1822 Capped Bust dime was stolen from you (or someone else) or whether you have some other question about it. The NGC Registry forum is for topics pertaining to the registry and may not receive as much attention as topics posted on other forums such as the "U.S., World, and Ancient Coins" forum. In any event, you should explain your point more clearly. If you are trying to make the numismatic community aware that this coin has been stolen, I can think of two actions you may take in addition to informing the police in the jurisdiction where it was stolen. First of all, you may inform NGC Customer Service that this NGC certified coin has been stolen, so that NGC may include this information in its Certification Verification application for this coin. See NGC Plays Vital Role in Criminal Investigation Involving $400,000 in Stolen Coins | NGC (ngccoin.com). Additionally, you may report the theft to the Numismatic Crimes Information Center. See https://numismaticcrimes.org/.

I can only see one image (reverse) as well. If I click the file names of the others, I get an error message including "access denied".

@Midwest Dozer--Welcome to the NGC chat board. When you have a question about a coin, please post it as a new topic with an appropriate title instead of on someone else's topic. It may receive better attention and will be easier to find by others searching the forum. Your purported 1795 Draped Bust dollar is a counterfeit, as are many such pieces posted here. Compare its details, such as the eagle's feathers, the leaves, and Liberty's hair to the photos of genuine coins of the BB-51 (B-14) and BB-52 (B-15) varieties at Early Dollars (1794-1804) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com).

Proof 1875 copper-nickel three cent piece, FS-301 "errant 1 in neck" variety, NGC graded PF 64: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

Although @Mike Meenderink may technically be correct, and it would be preferable to use distilled water if not acetone, I have rinsed coins with cold tap water and patted and air dried them before placing them in albums, tubes, or other holders for at least 40 years with good results, while coins I have removed from dealers' holders or circulation and not rinsed have frequently become spotted or discolored. This may not have been the case if well water or water from some lesser public water systems were used. Many newer or less serious collectors may not have the inclination to obtain these products, and acetone can be dangerous. When you can see that a coin has already been mishandled, it is better to do what I recommended than to do nothing.