Sandon

Welcome to the NGC chat board. While I am not aware of any YouTube video on this subject, NGC provides detailed instructions and other information regarding submissions on its website. Go to the NGC home page (www.ngccoin.com) and review the various topics under the "Submit" tab at the top of the page.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. 1944 Jefferson nickels without mintmarks are counterfeits made in the 1950s by a man named Henning who ultimately served time in prison for his activities. See Henning Nickel (error-ref.com). Notwithstanding their dubious legal status, there are collectors who seek them. It would be difficult to put a value on them.

1893 proof Barber dime, PCGS graded PR 64CAM: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

Several different Buffalo nickel reverses that had already been punched with an "S" mintmark were overpunched with a "D" in 1938, presumably because it had been decided that no Buffalo nickels would be struck in San Francisco for the final year of that type. NGC (and, I think, PCGS, whose holder this coin appears to be in) will attribute coins from any of these dies as a D over S without an additional fee, but an additional variety attribution such as the FS-511 would require the submitter to pay a variety attribution fee ($18 at NGC) in addition to the grading fee and other costs. Neither the NGC nor the PCGS Price Guide shows the FS-511 being worth a premium over other 1938-D, D over S varieties. Unless there are recent auction records showing this variety being substantially more valuable than others in its assigned grade, it wouldn't make any sense to resubmit it. In any event, there is no reason that collectors shouldn't be able to make and verify their own attributions. Your coin appears to be a close match, possibly from a different die state than the coin shown on VarietyPlus.

Yes, it is possible. Notably, there is a Buffalo nickel variety known as the 1938-D/D/D/S (FS-511). See Buffalo Five Cents (1913-1938) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com). Please show each side of the coin whose closeups you posted.

Type collectors usually focus on obtaining one coin of each type in the best possible condition and, accordingly, usually choose a common date that is more available in high grades. Date and mint collectors seek to complete sets of one or more chosen types that include rare issues that may be virtually (or actually) unobtainable in the highest grades. It usually makes sense, therefore, that type sets in the registry are scored exclusively for the grade of the coin and relative rarity of the entire type, while for date and mint sets the score for each issue is based on a combination of the rarity of that issue and the grade of the coin. Otherwise, true type collectors with beautiful high-grade pieces wouldn't be able to compete in the registry with date and mint collectors (like me) who could assemble "type sets" out of key date issues in much lower grades. NGC might consider an exception for certain specialized type sets, such as the "New Orleans Type Set, 1838-1909, One Per Denomination" in which both @Coinbuf and I participate. Most type coins that were struck in New Orleans are much harder to find than coins of the same type from other mints, the one notable exception being the Morgan dollar. Some types were only made in New Orleans for a single year's issue and are rare. One such coin is the 1839-O half dollar, of which I have an uncertified example with full Very Fine details that would almost certainly be details graded as "cleaned". (The 1838-O is an extreme rarity that is "noncompetitive" in date and mint sets.) Scored as a type coin, the coin would only be worth 273 points, while in a Capped Bust date set it would be worth 654 points and might be worth submitting.

You can easily determine the eligible coins for each slot and the number of points for each such coin in every grade. Just left click "See Coins" in any empty slot under the "Points" column for the slot. You can also click the point number in the same column for a filled slot. You can do this for your own or other members' sets. You can also get this information for an entire set category by viewing the list of "Competing Sets" in that category and clicking "See Eligible Coins".

Assuming that the coin is genuine and that the rim ding wouldn't result in a "details" grade, I would grade the coin in the AU (55-58) range due to the obvious "rub" in the fields and on the Indian's cheek. A grading service might give it a low mint state grade. I recommend buying gold coins in grading service holders nowadays for authentication purposes. The 1909-D half eagle is #21 on NGC's list of most counterfeited U.S. coins. 21. 1909-D Indian $5 | NGC (ngccoin.com).

I have seen many modern U.S. proof coins with small areas of haze like this. It is not really an impairment but might lower the grading service grade of the coin to "69" from the possible "70" marketing gimmick grade. So many of this issue have been submitted to grading services that the pieces kept in their original capsules with the mint boxes and certificates may be worth more someday.

If you are interested in U.S. coins, you should obtain a current (2024, 2025 edition likely to appear in a few months) or recent edition of A Guide Book of United States Coins, commonly known as the "Redbook". It is available online from its publisher at whitman.com. There you would find that the 1974 Lincoln cent (no mint mark, Philadelphia mint) had a mintage of over 4.2 billion pieces and the 1968-D (Denver mint) Roosevelt dime a mintage of nearly 481 million. They still circulate in the United States and have no value to collectors unless in uncirculated (new) condition and even then only if attractive with minimal blemishes. Both of your coins are worn and have no collector value. (I assume that the "wheat ears" reverse is from a different cent, as that reverse was not used after 1958.) The non-U.S. coins also appear to be common modern issues with circulation wear. You can check their retail values on the NGC World Coin Price Guide at World Coin Price Guide and Values | NGC (ngccoin.com).

In order to be considered "off center", the coin would have to show an area of unstruck (blank) planchet on both sides. If it appears "slightly off center" on only one side, the cause would be a misaligned die, which is generally regarded as a quality control issue rather than a mint error and not considered worth a premium by knowledgeable collectors or attributable by grading services.

You should be able to see your own submissions and download your photos by going to the "Submit" tab at the top of the NGC home page and going to "Submission Tracking". The photos may also be available under NGC Certificate Verification at NGC Cert Lookup | Verify NGC Certification | NGC (ngccoin.com) and entering the certificate number and grade.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. As stated, your Lincoln cent is simply well-worn, grading Fair to About Good. The rims don't always wear away completely before the lettering and date become partly illegible. Compare it to the photos of the coins representing the grades "FR02" and "AG03" on PCGS Photograde at https://www.pcgs.com/photograde#/Lincoln/Grades. It isn't possible to assess the quality of the strike the coin would have originally had when this worn, although it appears to have been a mint marked issue from the nineteen teens or twenties, which frequently were weakly struck. All mint marked Lincoln cents of that era were circulation strikes that had the same quality of "finish", which couldn't be assessed on a coin this worn in any case. In the future, please crop your photos so that they show to the greatest extent possible only the coin and not the surrounding surface. As one who is "new to coins", you may benefit from the resources identified in the following forum topics: I strongly recommend that you familiarize yourself with the basics of U.S. coins, such as types, dates and mints, and grading before venturing into more advanced topics such as mint errors. Contrary to what you may have seen on some websites, it is extremely unusual to find significant mint errors in your pocket change or among accumulations of circulated coins.

The only form of "doubling" on a coin that may result in the coin having substantial interest to collectors is die doubling, a.k.a. a "doubled die", where the doubling is in the coinage die itself, which results from the "hub" that impresses the image into the working die moving during the impression. In 1996 the mint adopted a "single squeeze" method for producing dies that was supposed to eliminate doubled dies, but some (mostly very minor ones) have been created since that time. In addition to the link to the doubleddie.com page provided by @EagleRJO, see Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com). As stated, your South Carolina quarter exhibits only strike doubling, a.k.a. machine or mechanical doubling. A coin struck from a doubled die generally features crisp, clear doubling with the images at about the same depth, as on this "Redbook" variety 1972 doubled die obverse Lincoln cent:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. I agree that the deformity of your 1994-D (?) Roosevelt dime was caused by exposure to high heat after the coin left the mint, possibly from an acetylene torch. Note how the surface of the coin has been blackened. Although "occluded gas bubbles" occasionally form when a planchet is struck, they are said to be restricted to solid-alloy issues and not to occur on clad coins like this one. See https://www.error-ref.com/?s=occluded+gas+bubble. The examples of coins with such bubbles shown in the link (1958-D and 1949 Lincoln cents) do not resemble this clad dime. Contrary to what you may have seen on some websites, it is extremely unusual to find any coin that exhibits a significant mint error in your pocket change.

All State, D.C. and Territories, and National Parks quarters have the fold that runs from the side of Washington's mouth to his chin. It is part of the design. I don't see anything unusual about this one. Could you explain in words what "looks different" to you?

This is a complex and controversial subject that should be taken up as a separate topic. For an overview and examples of coins from my collection that exhibit various forms of "cleaning", see Characteristics of "Cleaned" Coins - Custom Set (collectors-society.com).

Nickels aren't plated. They are composed of a homogeneous (same throughout) alloy of 75% copper, 25% nickel. Check your "Redbook". Your coin is clearly a severely damaged one that was likely run over by motor vehicles, causing it to be crushed and scraped, and also corroded from exposure to the environment. It is extremely unusual to find any significant mint error in your change. I recommend that you study the various types of mint errors and how they occur. See the following resources: Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 1 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 2 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 3 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 4 | NGC (ngccoin.com) https://www.error-ref.com/ contains a comprehensive description of known types of mint errors, with photos. If you can't match a coin with one of these types, it almost certainly isn't a mint error.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. When you post photos of coins on this forum, please crop them so that they show to the greatest extent possible the coin and not the surrounding surface. Based upon what I can see, I agree that someone took glue (or some other sticky substance) and stuck two cents together with it off center. When the other coin was removed from this 1983-D cent, the dried glue remained and retains an incuse (impressed and backward) impression of the lettering from the other cent. Contrary to what you may have seen on other websites, it is actually extremely unusual to find any significant mint error coin in your change. Please don't assume that a coin is a mint error just because it looks odd to you.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Please note that the "Coin Marketplace" forum is for actual offers to buy or sell coins in accordance with the "Coin Marketplace Guidelines" topic pinned near the top of the forum. Your "general question" topic would receive better attention from forum members if posted in the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum. The 2024 "Redbook" was published in April 2023 from prices compiled several months earlier. It may not list many of your coins in the grades assigned by NGC. The "Redbook" nowadays remains indispensable for basic information about U.S. coins but isn't of much use as a current price guide. You can check estimated more current retail sale values for your coins online on the free NGC Price Guide at NGC Coin Price Guide and Values | NGC or on the (often higher) free PCGS Price Guide at https://www.pcgs.com/prices. You can also subscribe to the monthly issue of Coin World, which contains a fairly comprehensive price guide, at www.coinworld.com or to the quarterly CPG Coin & Currency Market Review at https://www.greysheet.com/publications/cpg-coin-currency-market-review. (If you inherited this collection, an appraisal of the coins as of the date of the decedent's death may have been prepared and could be used for reference. I do not recommend referring to such sites as Ebay, which include listings by dishonest and less knowledgeable sellers.) How to best sell your coins depends on their values. If you have a number of individual pieces with retail list values of, say, $500 or more, you might consider consigning them to a major numismatic auction house such as Heritage (ha.com), Great Collections (greatcollections.com), or Stacks Bowers (stacksbowers.com). If they are mainly pieces worth two or low three figures, it might be better to sell them to a local dealer. Expect such dealers to pay 50% to 70% of average retail values. As any dealer can claim to pay "the highest" prices, you may wish to seek a dealer who is a member of the Professional Numismatists Guild (PNG) at Professional Numismatists Guild - an alliance of worldwide rare coin dealers (pngdealers.org) and click "Find a PNG Dealer". PNG Dealers are required to subscribe to a code of ethics. NGC also maintains a dealer locator at Find Coin Shops & Dealers | Coin Dealer Locator | NGC (ngccoin.com).

Instead of buying groups of sets from online sellers without an opportunity to inspect the sets in hand, you really should try to attend coin shows or at least go to dealers' shops where you can select the pieces or sets that are to your taste. You can also learn at those venues by looking at the pieces on display and speaking with the attending dealers and experienced collectors. I think that it is a mistake to try to "fast track your collecting", which may result in your having a large number of pieces that are not of the best quality or that just aren't to your liking. Patience is important and will usually be rewarded. I've sometimes spent years trying to find an example of a coin that I liked at an acceptable price. Part of the enjoyment of collecting is what the late Louis E. Eliasberg, Sr. (the first numismatist to own an example of every U.S. coin by date and mint) called "the thrill of the chase." The multicolored toning on the coins in your photos is actually considered enhancing by some collectors, and earlier proof coins with such toning sometimes sell for a premium. However, if you prefer brilliant pieces, as I do, you should avoid buying such toned pieces.

See my response to your other topic on this subject. It wasn't necessary to post it again with a different title.

I assume that your scale is properly calibrated and is weighing other bronze or brass cents (1864-1982) at approximately 3.1 grams. The scale should show weights within one hundredth (0.01) gram. Those that show weights only in tenths of a gram may not be very accurate. Per the Coin World Almanac, the statutory weight of a 1981 Lincoln cent was 3.11 grams, with a tolerance of 0.13 gram, so the legal weight could vary from 2.98 to 3.24 grams. Coins may be somewhat underweight or overweight due to variations in planchet thickness or alloy. The mint only tends to be very careful about such matters when coins are composed of precious metals. A normal looking cent being a miniscule 0.26 gram over tolerance isn't something that collectors would generally care about or notice. Collectors generally only weigh coins that are suspected of being counterfeit or appear to be abnormal in some way that might affect their weight. I have been collecting coins for nearly 53 years and have never owned a scale. If something about this cent appears unusual to you, you should post clear, cropped photos of each side of the coin.

Some of those who post photos of damaged coins or those with minor anomalies that they think are mint errors are members of the general public or very new or casual collectors who know little or nothing about coins. You can't expect them to understand how coins are made and what errors are possible. I try to humor them and explain why their coins are not mint errors. Some are appreciative, and a few may ultimately become knowledgeable collectors. Those who insist that they are right and we are wrong I ultimately ignore and leave to bask in their invincible ignorance.

1912 Barber quarter, PCGS graded MS 63: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.