Sandon

I have read of these dates being particularly subject to die buckling giving the appearance of Liberty having "mumps". David Lawrence wrote that the 1907-O was "p]robably the worst struck coin in the Barber half series, but does come with nice luster. 'Mumps' specimens are fairly common and most exaggerated in this date." D. Lawrence, The Complete Guide to Barber Halves (1991) at p.77. Lawrence also commented regarding the 1908-O that "'[m]umps specimens are not unusual." Id. at p. 81. I hope that this helps.

This topic would also have been better placed in the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum. The Administrator will likely move it there next week. "CAC" stands for Certified Acceptance Corporation, which was founded in 2007 by John Albanese, a dealer who was involved in the founding of both PCGS and NGC in the 1980s and who is highly respected as a grader who applies strict standards. NGC and PCGS graded coins are awarded green CAC stickers if they are found by Albanese and those trained by him to be solid for the assigned grade and gold stickers if they are found to be undergraded. Originally, CAC would offer to buy CAC-stickered coins sight-unseen and acted as a "market maker" for these coins. Last year, however, CAC also became a grading service (CAC Grading or "CACG") that grades and encapsulates coins. CAC still stickers coins in NGC and PCGS holders but, I understand, no longer buys or sells coins. A new stickering service, CMQ, began last year in affiliation with Stacks Bowers Galleries, a major numismatic auction house. I understand that CMQ stickered certified coins have been approved by David Hall (a founder of PCGS) and Greg Roberts, who are also respected as graders. Most of the other stickers don't, to my knowledge, have widespread market acceptance. An exception would be "Eagle Eye" stickers on Flying Eagle and Indian cents, indicating the approval of their grading by dealer Rick Snow, who is respected in that specialty. In my opinion, the problem with these stickering services--and grading services themselves--is that they encourage collectors to accept the judgment of others about coins and not develop their own knowledge of grading, judgment, and personal taste. Ultimately, the decision as to whether to buy a particular coin should be based upon an informed purchaser's own evaluation of the coin, not what a grading or stickering service thinks of it. You might want to review the following topic about CAC and CACG:

This topic was originally posted in the NGC Registry forum, where I had the following observations: Many of the heavily toned Franklin half dollars (and other silver coins dated from 1947 to 1958) originated in the U.S. Mint uncirculated coin ("mint") sets of that era, whose packaging consisted of cardboard holders and paper envelopes that reacted with the coin metal. Believe it or not, some collectors regard this heavy and often dark or spotted toning as enhancing and indicative of the coins' originality and are willing to pay a premium for them. The grading services tend to award high grades to these coins with "mint set toning". Like you, I regard this toning, formerly known as tarnish, as ugly and undesirable. I prefer the brilliant and frosty or lightly toned coins that originated in bags or original rolls instead of these unattractive pieces. Regarding the brilliant pieces, try to avoid those that are brilliant because they have been "dipped". Such coins will usually have a somewhat "washed out" appearance or white residue spots from insufficient rinsing. Grading services will numerically grade pieces that have been dipped if not excessively so but will usually not award them grades higher than MS 64.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. As your question doesn't directly relate to the Registry, it might receive better attention if posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum or the "U.S. World, and Ancient Coins" forum. Many of the heavily toned Franklin half dollars (and other silver coins dated from 1947 to 1958) originated in the U.S. Mint uncirculated coin ("mint") sets of that era, whose packaging consisted of cardboard holders and paper envelopes that reacted with the coin metal. Believe it or not, some collectors regard this heavy and often dark or spotted toning as enhancing and indicative of the coins' originality and are willing to pay a premium for them. The grading services tend to award high grades to these coins with "mint set toning". Like you, I regard this toning, formerly known as tarnish, as ugly and undesirable. I prefer the brilliant and frosty or lightly toned coins that originated in bags or original rolls instead of these unattractive pieces. Regarding the brilliant pieces, try to avoid those that are brilliant because they have been "dipped". Such coins will usually have a somewhat "washed out" appearance or white residue spots from insufficient rinsing. Grading services will numerically grade pieces that have been dipped if not excessively so but will usually not award them grades higher than MS 64.

1819, Large 9 over 8 Capped Bust half dollar, O-106, PCGS graded XF Details, "cleaned". Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

The inner hair cord is just barely complete, so it might just meet the ANA Grading Guide requirements for Fine, but it could also be called a VG-F or VG 10 in terms of details, but it has enough rim damage and evidence of "cleaning" that it would likely receive a "details" grade. This 1834 large cent is of the Large 8, Small Stars, Medium Letters "Redbook" variety, which comprises two Newcomb die varieties, N3 and N4. This coin appears to be an N4, said to be the scarcer of the two die varieties, but still relatively common.

I don't know where you're getting your information. Although the 1934-S is more easily obtainable and cheaper than the 1928 in circulated (especially well-worn) grades, it's much scarcer and more expensive as an uncirculated coin. Fewer 1934-Ss were preserved that hadn't been in circulation than 1928s. In the MS 65 grade, the 1928 lists $3,750 in MS 65 in the NGC Price Guide, while the 1934-S lists $11,500. See Peace Dollars (1921-1935) | Price Guide & Values | NGC (ngccoin.com). The 1934-S has a higher list price than the 1928 in every grade AU 50 and higher. The NGC Census shows a total of 9,802 certification events for 1928 Peace dollars and only 5,245 for the 1934-S. See Peace Dollars (1921-1935) | Coin Census Population Report | NGC (ngccoin.com). More significantly, the 1928 has 6,189 certification events in Mint State grades (60 or higher), while the 1934-S has only 1,406. You will notice similar price and certified population differences in the PCGS Price Guide and Population Report at pcgs.com. How can you hope to become successful as either a collector or an investor (or, like many of us, as both), when you lack even basic knowledge and experience? Just as in stock or real estate investing, if you don't thoroughly understand what you're buying and the market for it or at least consult with someone who does, you're not likely to succeed. I recommend that you learn and make smaller purchases for at least the next few years. Otherwise, you will likely learn the lesson the hard way.

That isn't always true, especially for Morgan and Peace silver dollars. Large portions of some issues were stored in Treasury and bank vaults for decades before being released in uncirculated condition at face value as late as 1964 or sold by the government between 1972 and 1980. Others, including higher mintage issues, were subjected to meltings that destroyed much of the original mintage. Although the 1928 Peace dollar is the lowest mintage issue of that series, the 1934-S and certain other dates are much rarer in most uncirculated grades. As I previously stated, if you insist on buying coins this expensive without much knowledge or experience, it would be best to buy them certified by NGC, PCGS, or other reputable services. However, your time and money might be better spent learning and developing informed judgment. (I had been collecting for over 40 years before I spent this much money on a single coin.) The coin in the PCGS holder with serial #84288352, which doesn't appear to be the same one you showed earlier, appears to be fairly priced for the assigned grade, but one can't really assess a coin without in-person examination, and from the obverse photo it appears too dull and streaky to be considered a nice coin for that grade in my opinion. (You can also access photos from a Heritage auction at which this coin was sold in 2017 through PCGS Certificate Verification, which also show it to be dull and streaky. See https://www.pcgs.com/cert/84288352.) I recommend that you follow the old saying of "buy the book before the coin" and attend such venues as coin shows and coin club meetings, where you can examine a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers. I referred you to forum topics identifying reliable print and online resources in one of your previous topics.

In other words, the number of "impressions" means the number of pieces made in the indicated metal. If they were coins instead of medals, we would refer to the number of pieces "struck", rather than "impressed", by the dies.

Every coin must be graded to determine its market value, whether the grading is done by the collector who is considering purchasing the coin, the person who currently owns it, or a third-party grading service. Opinions as to a coin's grade may vary, even among those with knowledge and experience. This is especially true for uncirculated (mint state) and proof coins, where a single point in grade may mean a substantial difference in list values. I'll take your question to mean, "As a new collector with little knowledge of or experience in grading coins who is considering buying an 1868 copper nickel three cent piece offered as MS 66 (a Gem Uncirculated grade with a high list price), should I buy such a coin so graded by a reputable third-party grading service or by the seller?" My answer to this question is that you are definitely better off buying such a coin graded by a reputable third-party grading service (NGC, PCGS, CAC Grading, or perhaps ANACS), whose opinions will generally be given weight should you decide to sell the coin. An 1868 copper nickel three cent piece is a relatively common date in that series even through lower to mid-uncirculated grades. A well-worn piece grading "Good" lists $20 in the NGC Price Guide and could likely be purchased uncertified for less. A nice Extremely Fine lists $55. A Choice Uncirculated MS 63 lists $200, a Very Choice MS 64 $325, a nominal Gem MS 65 $600 and a MS 66 $1,300. Although I'm personally fond of this series, it isn't one of the more popular types of U.S. coins and am not sure why a new collector would want to purchase a likely high-priced example of one of its more common dates, assuming that you are actually considering buying it. Notwithstanding the third-party grading of the coin, it is still important that you develop the judgment to determine that the coin is "nice for the grade" and worth the price being asked. Many "three cent nickels" were struck weakly and/or from heavily clashed dies and may be unattractive even if awarded higher grades based on surface preservation and luster. I happen to own an 1868 graded MS 63 by PCGS, likely due to somewhat subdued luster, but I value it for its strong strike with full lines in the "III" and relatively unblemished surfaces. Can you tell much real difference between this MS 63 and the coin graded MS 66 that would warrant spending an additional $1,000 for it? If you would like to learn more about copper nickel three cent pieces, see my topic about them:

1818 Capped Bust quarter, PCGS graded XF 40:

1831 Capped Bust quarter, small letters variety, NGC graded XF 45, though lightly "cleaned" in my opinion: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

Back when I attended college in Washington, D.C. in the late 1970s and early 1980s, I would go to the gift shop that the U.S. Mint (then the Bureau of the Mint) operated in the Treasury Building. The items offered for sale included these presumably leftover souvenir sets that had been assembled for the 1978 and 1979 ANA conventions. (As I recall, there was only a summer convention in those days.) Although the items included in these sets are of no great value, the sets themselves are interesting mementos. I don't know how many were assembled and, while they might be found in dealers' "junk boxes", I don't remember seeing them in recent years. The 1978 set, created for the 1978 convention in Houston, Texas, included a then new 1978-D Eisenhower dollar and a small bronze Lyndon B. Johnson medal, along with a card explaining that Eisenhower and Johnson were "Our Two Texas-Born Presidents". The 1979 set, commemorating the 1979 convention held in St. Louis, Missouri, included a 1978 Eisenhower dollar and a 1979-P Susan B. Anthony dollar (common narrow rim variety), plus a card entitled "The Old Gives Way to the New" with biographical information about Eisenhower and Anthony and information about the coins. I don't know whether the Mint created souvenir sets like these for other ANA conventions, but it is likely that such sets exist. If you have any, please feel free to post them here.

I happen to have this one that I bought at the U.S. Mint's gift shop in the Treasury Building in Washington, D.C. in 1978 or 1979 for the original issue price of $9. The contents are identical to those in the sets in the usual red envelope.

"Subsidence" and "subsistence" are different words with quite different meanings. The posted coin may exhibit reverse die subsidence (not "subsistence"), or a portion of its reverse may have been struck through some soft or thin material that caused the depression but allowed the design to still show through it weakly.

The Mint produced no quarters, half dollars, or dollars dated 1975. Any piece so dated is a fake. Pieces of these denominations dated 1974 were produced until about mid-1975, and Bicentennial dual dated pieces were produced thereafter.

It's a nick.

There is no "1975-S 3 coin set". The dual dated "1776-1976" 40% silver 3-coin sets were produced between some time in 1974 and the end of 1976 but, the coins are all the same (uncirculated or proof). The 3-coin uncirculated sets were mostly sold in a red outer envelope, but some were sold in a Christmas-themed white envelope with red ink showing Independence Hall in the snow. The 3-coin proof sets were sold in what I think you mean by the "little blue case", which had gold print and holes for the coins in their capsules.

It appears that the 1943 cent was submitted or will be graded in the "Walkthrough" tier ($175 grading fee) at the maximum $25,000 declared market value. A coin valued at over $25,000 would be submitted in the "Unlimited Walkthrough" tier at a grading fee of $350 + 1% of the market value. For a coin valued at $1,700,000, that would be a grading fee of $17,350! Even the $175 grading fee plus processing and shipping fees is likely to be a painful lesson for the evaluation of what is almost certain to be a plated and/or corroded normal 1943 steel cent. (I don't think we ever saw photos of this coin.) The rare coin that you think you have wouldn't be "bronze coated". It would be solid bronze.

I also think that your coin matches the VarietyPlus photos of the FS-801, but bear in mind that there aren't many collectors of Liberty Seated half dollars by die variety, nor is a doubled die on such a coin as popular as it would be on a more recent series. I doubt that it would be worth the expense and time of resubmission for a variety attribution, and you can record the variety in your own records. If you're considering selling it, you should check for additional recent auction records for pieces of this variety, or you could ask a Liberty Seated specialized dealer such as Osburn, Larry Briggs, or Gerry Fortin if they would pay a premium for it.

This topic would have been better posted on the Coin Marketplace forum, which is for offers to buy and sell coins, rather than in the NGC Registry forum. (The Administrator will likely move it to the correct forum.)

NGC is being decent enough to provide you with an opportunity not to waste a great deal of money. I would take it if I were you.

See the following topic on the Ask NGC/NCS forum regarding the similar piece that @VasquezJ submitted to NGC. He is about to learn a very expensive lesson. Was mistake being done on submission form - Ask NGC/NCS - NGC Coin Collectors Chat Boards

It is quite difficult to grade coins that are at or near uncirculated grades from any photos, even ones that are properly oriented and cropped, unlike those you posted. It requires in-person examination of the coin from various angles, with some magnification. Based on what I can see and over 50 years of experience, this 1961-D Jefferson nickel grades somewhere between AU 55 and MS 63. It obviously doesn't have "full steps". I see a number of abrasions, and the luster appears to be dull. This month's Coin World lists this issue with retail values of 25 cents in AU 58, 30 cents in MS 60, and $1 in MS 63. I doubt that a dealer would want to buy it in any of these grades.

The date, along with other areas of this 1997-D Lincoln cent, have been affected by crush damage from the coin being pressed against a rough surface, such as a roadway. it is not a mint error. It is in fact extremely unusual to find any significant mint error, die variety, or other coin with substantial collector value in circulation. If you are a new collector, you should be learning the basics of collecting U.S. coins, such as the history of U.S. coins, types, which dates, mints and major varieties are valuable and grading before getting into more advanced topics such as mint errors. (Do you have a recent edition of the "Redbook", a grading guide, and a subscription to a current price guide?) If you want an overview of what constitutes a mint error, see the following articles on the NGC website: Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 1 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 2 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 3 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 4 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com) For a comprehensive treatment of mint errors, see the site error-ref.com.