l.cutler

Just one cent. The first coin is a zinc small date, it is only the copper 1982 D small date that is valuable.

The first coin in the album is a large date, the second is a small date zinc. Both are just worth face value.

That one is a large date as well.

That coin looks like it has been cleaned. Notice the shadowing around the lettering and devices, this is where the cleaning could not reach.

The circle is damage from a coin rolling machine. Where are you seeing the doubling?

They are just identifying it as a Memorial reverse, as opposed to a wheat reverse Lincoln cent.

Very clearly a close AM.

Highly unlikely. The only valuable one is the proof that was accidentally minted without an S mintmark. These only came in proof sets. There were millions of Philadelphia minted dimes without mintmarks made for circulation.

Sorry, but it is not real. It does look a little better than the usual replicas, the lettering is a bit clearer. Compare it to the genuine varieties though and you will see it just doesn't match up to any of them. Welcome to the forum though.

That coin is just badly worn, most likely intentionally.

Also think of the direction, what you see as an eagles head is facing the wrong direction from what a clash would. This is also a question for those more informed on clashes thatn I am, would a clash reach the recess of the die?

No not rare. It is, of course, a novelty type fake.

Yep, that is a dug coin.

It is your call and your money, so have it authenticated if you want. I personally would not as there is virtually no chance that they are silver. I would look for someone else to check them, or just forget about it.

Acetone won't hurt the coin. It may remove the foreign substance, depending on what it is though.

Looks like a normal nickel. Ice melting doesn't mean much, it could just mean the nickel was very warm when you did it. What other test did it pass?

Totally agree with the others, glue and plain old circulation.

If you are talking about the bump behind Washington's head, that is a bubble caused by high heat. Not a mint error, just damage. Just noticed, this is your first post. Welcome to the forum!

Even the blurry photos show it to be nowhere near 70. Quite a few small nicks.

What do you mean "struck by liberty coin"? I don't understand what you are trying to say.

I believe the T has just taken a hit pushing the metal off to the side. I guess it could also be a small die chip, but it would be nothing to command a premium.

From a seller with good feedback, with well written descriptions, excellent photos, in the proper categories, coins will normally reach their true value. Starting an auction at it's full value or what you feel will be it's full value is a sure way to drive bidders away.

You got all the answers here, from experienced numismatists with decades of experience, just not the answers you want.

I just don't see any way to make this work. Grade is just as important on proof coins as it is on business strikes. Can you identify a coin that has been cleaned as opposed to original? Also, what is your planned venue for selling the coins? You certainly can't expect to be the high bidder on ebay, where you are willing to pay more for the coin than anyone else, turn around and put it back on ebay where you are offering it to the same people who were not willing to pay more than you to begin with. You would also have to get enough more than you paid to cover ebay's fees. I wish you luck, but I think you would be better off just learning about coins first, It's sort of like deciding to become an auto mechanic without knowing how engines and cars work.

It is a little hard to understand your post, but coins are not moved to finishing. They are struck by the dies, ejected and they are done. Your coin and the other 1983 that you pictured are damaged, nothing else. We were all new to this once, just take some time to study and understand the minting process. You will soon be able to see that there is no way this could have happened at the mint.