Henri Charriere

If I may I should like to respond, helpfully.  To my knowledge, this topic had been addressed on two prior occasions.  Why those members, who got valid responses and do not appear to be interested in sharing them with another member, is beyond me.
All I can say is each TPGS has its own criteria and classification system.. Since it is not possible to view your set, formally, on a Set Registry, I cannot render a conclusion without doing a little comparison shopping.
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A 1933 SG DE is out there somewhere. There are 3 types of such.sets on the West coast, and EC, its owner, ranks # 1 in two. Focusing on the Type 3, With Motto, MS, 1908-1933, there are 844 of 2500+ sets, and he has accumulated 657,255 points. Here is the forbidden question: How many points was his coin, an MS-65, awarded? (Yes, this is a trick question made trickier by the fact one of the two TPGS notes: "15-20 known.")
I Iike sets that hew to the same grade line. My 🐓  set, presently ranked # 7, at MS-66, is not possible to complete because the grade I arbitrarily chose is not available for half the earlier dates. (As noted by the distinguished numismatist, z, this does not mean they do not exist; they simply have not been certified and hence, do not appear on any population/census report.)
I wish I knew the answer to your question but the fact is there are a multiplicity of factors considered beyond date and grade. Some are "Top Pop," rarity/scarcity, and, irrespective of all those, whether your set(s) are complete. I could have "completed" both sets if I had the guts to waive the self-imposed, 66-or-else requirement, and more importantly, if the East coast-West coast (factions) combatants had a sit-down and resolved there differences amicably allowing the inclusion of their competitor's World Gold coins in their respective Set Registries.
🐓  : Thanks for not BUMPING this post!

Relying solely on my certified negative three (-3) I.Q. and wary of the OP releasing a daisy cutter over my already rublle-strewn neighborhood, I should like to put this matter to rest as the Attica Commission noted 50+ years ago, "firmly and with finality."
I say more evidence has been produced in support of the case of the existence of an "SMS" set than has been produced for the Loch Ness fella.
What don't we know about them other than some members violently disagree with the usage of the designation? Nothing. Now if you commit the ultimate sacrilege and break up a set formerly in its OGH, sorry, but all bets are off. (I do not know if Sandon has ever engaged in such conduct personally, but speaking with authority that discourages debate, I would be inclined to accept his word unchallenged.)
This topic has been bandied about long enough. That decision, ultimately, however, is Flying Al's to make.

I can’t say that I’ve willfully and trustingly sent money to a person in faith that they will send me the product.   I have sent coins to NGC and optioned out of the insurance.  A sizable $ package for my comfort but I hate insurance….  😒.  The things I could buy if I had all my insurance money back!!

1859-S Liberty Seated half dollar, PCGS graded XF 40. This coin appears to me to have Ch. XF-AU details but to have been net graded due to a light "cleaning". 

Absolutely beautiful coin.  Au Revoir!

Hello and thank you for your quick responses.
In fact, as I am in France (Paris), it is much longer (6 months minimum) and complicated to have it graded by NGC. There is no on-site grading here.
Having the reference of the gradation of this coin is more to know what gradation it received and therefore if it is useful to grade it again.
At PCGS it is possible to find the population of each type of coin with the photos and I thought that this was also possible at NGC. I'm going to think about it.
thanks again

Welcome to the NGC chat board.
  I doubt that it would be possible to determine what certification number this coin previously had if you don't have and can't retrieve the label. If this coin is rare and distinctive enough, you might be able to match it to its photo in an auction or other sale when it was in the NGC Ancients holder and determine the certification number that way.
  The removal of the coin from the holder negated the grading guarantee, such as it is, and there is no guarantee of authenticity for ancients. See Guarantee for Ancient Coin Grading | NGC (ngccoin.com).  You would have to resubmit the coin to get it back in a holder and would receive a new certification number.

As long as I have you, I don't need anyone else.

I listen to you because you deal with this on a daily basis.  Even a "Rising Star" like me, here only 5 years (with jail time credit for that trip to Vladivostok, courtesy NGC)  🤣 understands mortality and borrowed time. My advice to those in my predicament (70 years, and older) is get down to brass tacks to avoid unanticipated developments which, fortunately for you, would be beyond your understanding.  I am not a doctor so I cannot help you, except give you advice: seek out a money manager -- and look both ways before you cross the street.

I listen to you because you deal with this on a daily basis.  Even a "Rising Star" like me, here only 5 years (with jail time credit for that trip to Vladivostok, courtesy NGC)  🤣 understands mortality and borrowed time. My advice to those in my predicament (70 years, and older) is get down to brass tacks to avoid unanticipated developments which, fortunately for you, would be beyond your understanding.  I am not a doctor so I cannot help you, except give you advice: seek out a money manager -- and look both ways before you cross the street.

🐓:  I hope the OP doesn't mind, but ----
Q.A.:  ----  I AM THE OP... speak up!
🐓:  I don't get why that was the "wrong answer." You yourself said without him watching from the wings, you're nothing. And French petit fours are pastries!  What's that got to do with anything?
Q.A.:. I have no idea.  Strut around and see what you can find out.  Right now I've got that greeting card on my mind. If it doesn't go thru, Uncle z's premonition comes true.  No more forum! No more chatboard! No more nothing!  It's back to a Hard-Knock Life!
🐓:  Your wish, sire, is my command.  (I hope he knows what he's doing...)
 
 

Not exactly.  What you have managed to do is refresh my recollection that it was fun at one time and that was in my youth, seemingly a century ago.
So what changed everything?  Lots of things. Collecting was much simpler years ago.  You went out and bought a coin album and filled it with coins found In change. You basically can no longer do that. When silver was withdrawn from circulation, it was replaced with play money: clads, and the ultimate insult: proof clads. As far as I am concerned, anything that is not real -- the once proud Lincoln cent with wheat ears, quarters vending machines would never rejectt, the entire dollar coin series beginning with an overbearing Ike, half dollars which are not made for circulation and aerial anachronisms like two-dollar bills that are interesting to own but no shopkeeper has a space for in their tray -- has no collector value.  Ever drop one of the newfangled coins on the floor? No pleasant ring. Only a thud. Instant validation that you do not have the "real thing." As with anything else, there are exceptions.
Then to revitalize the market, TPGS sprung up. A scaling system was adopted.  On the Mint State side, extreme distictions arose and with them, values. So we all have brand-new coins, but "mine is better than yours -- and in many instances, worth twice as much as yours. Yeah, barrels of fun.
My feeling about MS-69s differs from yours.  To me, it represents nothing more than an A-minus on a school report.  It implies "it's better than most, perhaps, but not best. Quiet is kept, I would just as soon settle for a low-ball that is accepted for what it is and has become.
Registry Sets are fine until the upgrading fever gets the better of you.  I canceled my subscription to Heritage Auctions when they sent me a notification that fully 13 coins met my WANT LIST requirements. (I collect one of eleven of the French 20-francs series.)  What they sent me were coins from other countries bearing standard catalog numbers which bore no resemblance to mine and the ultimate insult: lower mint state grades.  There are only a few places in the world that sell top shelf coins in my series, so I notify them, and sit back and wait.
Fun?  Fun is Coney Island. You know who's going to have a barrel of laughs? All the Ignorers, doubting Thomas's and Debbie downers who find out I stuffed U.S. currency into an envelope, stuck a stamp outside and mailed it without knowing if the item will be in stock when it gets there from someone I never met, spoke to or sent a previous text to. I am a risk-taker and although a dozen things can go wrong, one or two may, and my many detractors will savor the experience of seeing me laughed right off the Forum. Yep, collecting is a lot of fun...

This is an example of the epitome of numismystique
My crime is I have STEPPED on toes.
You have BUMPED threads ( and others have begun to do so, too.)
Seriously, there is method to their madness.
Malheureusement, separating rhyme from  reason is not one of my stronger points. (That sounds a whole lot better than saying I failed STATISTICS six times in a row... consecutively.)  

It may not seem like that to the average e-Bay user, but you do have options -- and your own strategies that work developed over time and experience.
The first option is obvious: a sale price.  (Now there is an installment plan as well.) First come, first served. The choice is yours.
The second option is: bidding on an item. A minimum is established as well as a time line. The progression proceeds on an incremental scale, e.g., from $200.to $225., and up, until expiration which is usually within one week.
The third option is, Or Best Offer (OBO).  This is akin to telling you this seller wants to get as much as he can, but an offer of 50% of the sale price is inadvisable and unrealistic. Try what you feel would work.
There are a few strategies I have devised.  Waiting until the last day, the last hour and the waning minutes can work unless someone has pre-bid a lot higher, anonymously.  Many times, being impatient (in my case, with French 20-francs gold roosters) I would take the bid, if $0.00, and reset it at gold melt to weed out the non-contenders and study the progression of serious principals. I have placed bids successfully with only ten seconds remaining on the clock. Your greatest success may occur in the wee hours of the morning when fewer people are awake placing bids.
One point I should like to emphasize is sell prices may seem "take it or leave it," but early on I would contact the seller with a modest 5% to 10% off and immediate payment if they would accept it. Many do, and have. Recently, I bought a token by using a different tack.  I plausibly explained to the seller that his example, many finer examples of which I claimed I owned and bought for less, was cleaned using two different methods (representing I knew more than he did) and suggested a FMV of 25% off his sale price, which he accepted immediately. It was a strong strike with strikingly distinct denticles which I would be happy to post on JB's thread after examining it more closely in hand to see if there is some way of enhancing its color safely with a short safe bath.
Please feel free to share your approaches to buying on e-Bay. Bear in mind, some kid in Nebraska, relying on logarithms, may deny your winning bid falsely claiming the problem is not on their end (PayPal) but yours.  I found that out the hard way when I bid on a giant gorgeous Mexican 50-peso, 1.2 t z coin described as an "heirloom" -- the seller's other merchandise included no coins whatsoever -- was denied me because PP determined it did not fit my "buying pattern." It was 2 a.m. Sunday morning. What could I do?  I walked into my bank on Monday and a platform assistant assured me there was nothing wrong with my account. (I already knew that.)  But enough about me, what about your thrills of victory and agonies of defeat? The floor is open!
 
 

@J.H.X.--Welcome to the NGC chat board. If you want to post photos of a coin and ask questions about that coin, please do so as a new topic, and include full, cropped photos of each side of the coin as well as any close-ups.
 Based on the photos you posted, there is nothing special about your 1964 Kennedy half dollar. It has normal frosty luster, the usual strike with weakness at the bottom of the shield, and extensive abrasions indicating that it originated in a regular mint bag of several thousand coins. The patches of die polish marks do not make the coin special; many coins show die polish marks when reasonably new or repolished. The so-called "SMS" pieces have a uniformly satiny finish with essentially continuous die polish in the fields, a full strike, and are in very high grade, indicating special handling. As I pointed out on another recent thread that you have reviewed, another perfectly ordinary coin in my own 1964 mint set displays some of the so-called "die markers".

Great way for an author to learn what most interests collectors about a controversial subject !
Nice.

Whenever I see one of these sets, I try to pick them up, the 1965 flat pack was $13 but these SMS holders are $10 a piece. These coins are nice SMS, they are almost proof quality.  

This is an example of the epitome of numismystique
My crime is I have STEPPED on toes.
You have BUMPED threads ( and others have begun to do so, too.)
Seriously, there is method to their madness.
Malheureusement, separating rhyme from  reason is not one of my stronger points. (That sounds a whole lot better than saying I failed STATISTICS six times in a row... consecutively.)  

That's a interesting piece. I have to say most of the coins I collect have dead people on them also. 

I would say it depends upon when you want to sell. 

Uhhh, I don't know. I just have wooden floors, so no gold to stand on.