RWB

Sorry - The 2x2 lied. It's not a proof and it's not even well struck. Compare the wheat on left and right side of the reverse. The grains should be strong and well defined on a normal coin, and much crisper on a matte proof.

Bradley44 - You will need to post high quality photos of the coin to begin with...old 'phone camera photos are unlikely to be of any value. Also, the individual proof coins were sandblasted NOT the dies. Low relief proof 1922 dollars were made on a medal press in February to provide approval samples for mint and treasury officers, and sculptor James Fraser who was advising them. There are several characteristics that have been in my books and other published material...and there are others that are reserved for authentication purposes and not public knowledge. RE: "I've had two experts look at this coin an said it has the same characteristics as the matte finish and others said no an I get it cause it's that hard to believe." I understand your comment; however, there are only a handful of collectors or dealers in the country who have personally examined a 1922 LR proof, so it's likely neither was really "expert." Looking forward to seeing good photos.

If the coin is a more common one, then try averaging the guide values for the grade you want to buy. Use this as a target to meet or beat as you search on-line and in person. By doing this, you will also begin to see a more realistic price range for the coin you want, and you can then relate that back to the price guides. You probably want the best value for money, so don;t expect the "perfect" coin at the best price to suddenly pop-up. You should also expect to negotiate with a seller.

Many of the "price guide" listings are poorly constructed and should be treated as rough estimates - literally a guide, not a precise trail. Further, only the most common and ordinary collector coins - those easily available - actually trade at somewhat uniform prices. Coin prices vary with the opinion of buyer and seller - there is nearly always some sort of "camel trading" going on. Thus, one 1895 proof dollar might sell for $10,000 more (or less) than another of allegedly identical "grade."

Vero86 - Your coin is a 1922-S (San Francisco Mint) silver dollar. It is commonly called a “Peace dollar” because of the word “PEACE” at the bottom reverse (below the eagle). The coin is 90% silver and 10% copper and weighs 26.73 grams. The diameter is 38.1 millimeters and it is 2.4 millimeters thick. (These standards go back to 1837.) The coin contains 0.77344 troy ounces (24.0567 grams) of pure silver. (Troy weight was used at the US Mint until the mid-20th century.) Your coin has seen circulation wear and has a very distracting punch mark at center of the obverse (Liberty’s portrait). Because of these it has no meaningful coin collector value, but its worth is equal to the market value of silver it contains. The coin might also have personal or family interest well beyond its nominal commercial worth. [Side Note: “Troy weight is a traditional system of weight in the British Isles based on the grain, pennyweight (24 grains), ounce (20 pennyweights), and pound (12 ounces). The troy grain, pennyweight, and ounce have been used since the Middle Ages to weigh gold, silver, and other precious metals and stones. The name supposedly derives from the city of Troyes in France, site of one of the major medieval fairs. The troy pound was adopted by the U.S. Mint for the regulation of coinage in 1828. The troy pound is equal to the apothecaries’ pound and to approximately 0.82 avoirdupois pound and 0.373 kilogram.” Encyclopedia Britannica.]

What do you gain? What do you loose? Does "grading" the bullion pieces mean anything? Sorry - just very skeptical about the whole fad of "grading" modern stuff like this.

Sounds like whatever you are using for research is very confused and false. Try starting over - just ask your questions here. The members will be pleased to help with clear, truthful information about coins.

Zinc coated steel was used only in 1943.

....same with "1964-D Peace dollars."

No problems with Firefox at present.

Agree. Our "federally chartered hobby organization" squats in the corner with its head in a bucket.

William Wyon, Chief Engraver of the Royal Mint.

But.....but...LQQK closely.....the obverse is a very rare rotated die....must be worth thousands !!!!!!!!!!!******!!!!!

...and then you can have things like this -- compare to a US dollar of the same year (1847).

This thread of photos about Sutter's Mill seems to deserve wider viewing. https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1064695/photos-from-sutter-mill-where-gold-was-discovered-that-led-to-minting-of-the-u-s-20-gold-pieces

RE: "Can anyone suggest something for this 1921 Morgan" Possibly flowers and a quiet memorial service....

Yep.

Should be fine....just get "non-used" ones. (Especially the proctologist ones.)

Quick answer: Larger coins have more weight - usually - often - sometimes. Also, an elephant has more weight than an uncirculated coin. An elephant with dings, scrapes and scratches is still heavier than a coin. So....there you have it...neatly wrapped in a pachyderm.

You want to use gloves that do not shed fibers or other particles.

No. Plus, it's not "on sale." $2,895 is their asking price compared to approx $500 US Mint price for all six. (PS: In retail business the lowest available selling price is the merchant's real "value" of an item for margin and expense purposes. Everything else is merely additional profit.)

See? That's what happens when one tries to be sly with a real expert!

Nope. I've turned down political jobs - and would again. Anyway, at 2,367 years young, my patience with placing coins in a row is limited.

RE: "1945 no mintmark penny would this be Ms67-69??" Lots of damage and marks. Barely uncirculated.

Master date die for the year. To the OP -- Adding more fuzzy photos only makes things more confusing. In any case, it's merely damage.