Crawtomatic

Everything about it appears to be post mint damage to me.  I'm not hypothesizing on how, but that's my opinion and input for this topic.

Is it stamped into the coin?  Appears so in most of these pics.  Which would mean it was added after it left the mint.  Usually counterstamps are more creative than this.

52 minutes ago, VKurtB said:

Why? Why does anyone ever apologize for blunt truth? We're talking about actual facts here, folks.

It's certainly better than hemming, hawing, and nervous chuckles.

Having them encapsulated is a good method to guarantee authenticity.  For any coins where there is no additional numismatic value consider a TPG like ANACS if the cost works out to be lower and you don't mind them in different slabs.

There are still plenty of mint sets from the 80s & 90s available at an affordable price if searching for gem+ zinc cents.  

And just for clarity the abbreviation for tripling would be TDO or TDR.  There's at least one Jefferson year/mint with a recognizable TDR but I can't recall it offhand.  In the 40s I believe.

...but I knew what you meant when I saw DDDR as well.  

When I'm cutting up mint sets sometimes the coins are not fit for my collection or for resale.  So those I drop into the regular coin jar to be rolled and returned to the bank.  A few weekends back I put a roll of each of mint state quarters, nickels, and dimes from the 60s/70s into circulation for the first time in their life.  I'm hoping they'll catch the eye of somebody when they get one in change.

31 minutes ago, Greenstang said:

Also don't get your hopes up as to no matter what the error is, it wouldn't be worth anywhere near $236,000.

The 1916 5c DDO and the 1918/7 5c would kindly like to point out that they possibly could in the top condition in the right auction.

<donning my ignorance cap>

Is this possible in the minting process?  If I were engineering a press I'd design it so that the obverse die & reverse die had different fittings so they could only go in the approved position.

It's not.  One suggestion for coin roll hunting as a beginner, only target the known varieties.  Rarely will you discover a new variety with new eyes.  But if you dedicate the time to only look for known varieties you'll work the rolls much faster, get to churn through more in less time, start to memorize the known major & minor varieties, and see exponentially more coins to help develop your eye.

My general approach to CRH when I used to:

1. Open up websites:  NGC VarietyPlus, VarietyVista (Coneca), Lincoln Cent Resource.  Over time I'd end up just with NGC VarietyPlus.  Reasoning?  If it's not a recognized variety for attribution then it's probably too minor to be valuable in circulated condition.

2. Open 4-5 rolls into 1 bowl

3. Separate coins from 1 bowl into 3 additional bowls - pre-1982 (copper), 1982, post-1982 (zinc)

4. Look at coins from one of the bowls only at a time.  For instance, post-1982 cents there's a few years & mintmarks you'll target and many you'll toss aside as not worth your time as nothing is documented for those years.

I think that's about it.  It's honestly been a while since I've done any CRH but you get the point.  In the beginning I'd spend way too long looking at every coin in the entire box, throwing it under a microscope, thinking there's something there that's not.  Then by the end before I moved on to actual numismatics (it felt like there was a shift for me) I'd churn through 3-4 boxes on a Saturday easily.  Pennies were my original preference but that was later replaced by nickels.  

Sometimes when I'm in the lake I have a floating D.  Still not worth $236,000 unfortunately.

Joking aside.  Etsy is not accurate and full of shysters.  I'm not familiar with a "Floating D" variety or error.  

Depending on the coins for sell there are multiple options:  Facebook marketplace, eBay, GreatCollections, Heritage Auctions, Stacks Bowers Auctions, etc....

Very cool.  Thank you for researching and writing that up.  Dimes are not a series I'm particularly fond of but die varieties are of great interest to me.  Especially those of the reverse.  Do you happen to have these coins in registry sets or anywhere else with high definition pictures that we could also see the differences?

eh...the link to their forums is broken from that page but here it is.

http://www.lincolncentforum.com/forum/forum.php

Just did a quick search through the lists on The Lincoln Cent Resource and not seeing mention of a 1960 plain date small/large or large/small.

http://www.lincolncentresource.com/Top50.html

They have a forums as well so perhaps a bit of searching or asking in there might get an answer.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=koshercraw&LH_PrefLoc=&_from=R40&_trksid=p2499338.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC2.A0.H0.Xngc.TRS1&_nkw=ngc&_sacat=0

19 total currently, nothing crazy, but Including:

1976 Type 1 Eisenhower MS65 - Sold, $100, 10/30/2019

1991-D 1c MS68RD

and a few Full Steps Jeffersons.

Feel free to send offers via private message.

Craw-

3 minutes ago, Dukemnm said:

But that is just some not all denominations.  They don't sell Cents, Nickels, Dimes. They only sell Quarters, Half Dollars and Dollars. 

Depends on the year and design.  For the 2009 Lincoln Cents they did sell them in commemorative wrapper rolls.

https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Formative-Years-Wrapped-Sealed/dp/B01LVZKO27

I believe they may have done the same for the Jefferson reverses that year.

This publication is a good one to identify certain minting errors/effects.  Page 25 also includes a list of other sites worth reviewing.

https://www.money.org/uploads/treasures/TreasuresPDF.pdf

Oh, I see what you mean regarding the moon's curvature being polished away.  There's a few varieties of interest related to overpolishing.  2 Feathers varieties in the Buffalo Nickel series.  The "No FG" years for Kennedy half dollars.  So on and so forth.  I wouldn't expect NGC to attribute this on the label until there's a market for it, or at the least, a Fivaz-Stanton reference number (which there may be, I don't have a copy of Volume 2 of the Cherrypickers' Guide).  

I'm interested now.  Generally there's no reason to get excited over a Denver Type II reverse but this could add an additional level.

Interesting.  I've looked at a lot of these over the past year but hadn't noticed any like that.  I'd wager it's from an overpolished die rather than grease filled.  At least in regard to the wood frame as it's a low relief section of the design.  I'll have to check the ones I have at home to see if I can confirm a similar.

I'm not seeing the loss of the moon part referenced though.

Aggressive wear.  If it were silver composition that might be normal wear but clad coins need a real beating to get to that point.

[enter Old Man with stubby cigar stage right]

Old Man:  Oh.  That coin?  That coin's seen things you don't want no part of, son.

Details - Corroded

$4-$5

Last I checked, a few months back, raw versions in high AU (Brown) condition could be had for $15 on eBay.

No prob, Hinkle.  Found a disclaimer on the US Mint website as well just in case needed.  A friend and I always asked for "2 pages and a bibliography" whenever we heard a statement of dubious claim so I still seek out supporting documentation.

https://catalog.usmint.gov/on/demandware.store/Sites-USM-Site/default/Product-Variation?pid=MASTER_NA2019RBB&dwvar_MASTER__NA2019RBB_detailsNA2019RBB=19NA&source=detail&Quantity=1

Last line of the Description section:

"Please Note: United States Mint coins are rolled by an automated machine process and not by hand. We cannot guarantee that the obverse (heads) or reverse of a coin will be at either end of a coin roll."

What would be the mint error?

Personally, not worth holding onto.  Open them.  Pull aside anything 67 or 68 condition potentially 68 with 6 Full Steps.  Spend the rest.

Wait.  Are we supposed to be using wrought iron forceps/tweezers to handle our coins now?  I'm behind on reading new issues of the Numismatist so excuse my ignorance.

Also, at some point you may need to remove these from the flips/holders they're in to get better pictures or move to a new flip/holder.  It's safe to gently slide them out onto a hard, dust free, surface with nothing present to scratch or abrade the coin.  Nothing like rough fabric.  When handling always hold on the edges with your middle finger & thumb opposite each other.