Mokiechan

I still don't understand why they couldn't have popped them into a simple plastic capsule.  I understand that would entail buying the capsules, certainly more expensive than the baggies, and also paying for the extra time it takes to place the coin in the capsule vice throwing it into a bag.  In fact use both, the capsule and the same baggie.  The sets already seem a bit too expensive anyway. Why Not Mint?

5 hours ago, jgrinz said:

Important tidbit AKA a "Wheat Cent"

and yes I am starting to get cricks in my neck also ... :-) 

That's the Lincoln Sleeping Error, very frequently seen when viewing raw iphone images. 

1 hour ago, Mohawk said:

Well...the 1988-D Kennedy Half certainly appears to be toned.  As for the Trade Dollar, I'm pretty sure it's a fake, likely a Chinese fake.  It just doesn't look right and it doesn't appear to be made of silver to my eye.  Here's our host's Coin Explorer page for the 1876-S Trade Dollar, so you can see what I mean:
 

https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/trade-dollars-1873-1885-pscid-48/1876-s-t1-ms-coinid-17043

So, the Trade Dollar wouldn't grade at all.

Sorry for the bad news, but I hope that it has at least been of some help.

~Tom

I thought the exact same thing about the Trade Dollar. Looks cast  to me.

I had a  year set of Japanese Coins from their mint that were in a PVC holder, this was before it became well known how damaging they were.  The coins all got coated with ugly green slime.   Don't ever buy a Japanese Mint Set in packaging like this:

I have had a few things graded that "were'nt worth grading".  In fact, just this month, I submitted the Apollo 11 Half Dollar and related reverse proof Kennedy Half for grading.  I think it is probably not worth it, but I just keep fingers crossed the coins grade as 70's.  Most of the time its just less expensive to find the coin you want slabbed, already slabbed for you. 

3 minutes ago, Greenstang said:

Don't waste your money sending it in, it I not an error.

It is environmental damage. I have seen this quite often. You can even see in the high areas where there is nickel showing through.

It can't be a dime on a copper planchet as a copper planchet would not fit in the collar of a dime.

Completely concur, I have seen dimes and quarters with a similar look on occasion, they are definitely not errors.  If you are still unsure, please take it to a local coin shop or coin club meeting and let someone else see your dime.

12 hours ago, Mohawk said:

I'm not surprised.  I think it's time for the cent to go, right along with the $1 bill. 

I read an article recently that made a good argument to maintain the paper dollar.  The article based was based on a government report (possibly the congressional budget office?) that stated the assumptions of how long a dollar bill stays in circulation nowadays is quite different than years ago, before the advent of debit cards and e-commerce  ate into the everyday cash transactions at a brick/mortar store.  To summarize, and I wish I could find the article, Dollar bills actually last far longer than the couple of years normally attributed to them, and the initial cost of making more coins to cover the loss of the dollar bill vice the cost of replacing dollars every 6 years is pretty much a wash, even though the coins would last far longer. 

On 5/23/2019 at 4:55 PM, Conder101 said:

Unless you are dealing with grenades.

LOL, that would be a DRAG  Do Respect A Grenade

5 hours ago, Greenstang said:

How can you tell it's brass. Did you have it tested?

The only difference between brass and copper is the amount of zinc in the alloy which cannot be determined without testing.

Lincoln Cents are not just Copper, they are Bronze which is an alloy of Copper and Tin, Brass is Copper and Zinc, I Think.  Not counting Steel Cents and Shell Case Cents, of course.

So would FRAG be Fair/About Good.  (:

I got dizzy scrolling through all those Kennedys.

17 hours ago, Jason Abshier said:

Red book values are not always a true “current market value” the market fluctuations changes a coin’s value on weekly basic or monthly basic only way know is this is look at online auctions and sales you’ll get an idea where market and values are heading ... rely do I even purchase a redbook anymore everything is online these days 

I have never relied on Red Book or Blue Book for coin pricing, your best source are the CDN guides, they are updated constantly and reflect real world coin buying and selling prices.  You can use that as your basis to try and get a better deal for the Eagles you're seeking.

4 hours ago, jgrinz said:

No Its not

It's a nice one though, maybe a roll released during National Coin Week?

Catches the eye and makes you have to visit the thread, I think it's a winning strategy.

Nice pictures though, very easy to see what you are asking about. 

21 hours ago, gtw-123 said:

I bought some of my coins from my dad that he bought from the US Mint about 30 years ago

If we are talking about mint produced items from the 1980's, most of us are far better off following LINCOLNMAN's advice and simply buying those coins already slabbed.  If you just want to preserve Dad's actual coins, then by all means go forth and enjoy. 

2 hours ago, JKK said:

Normally when we don't have both sides of the coin, we can't say. I'd guess the steelie with the worn spots gets VF. The bronze cent below it, an abused 1949 by the look of it, will get a details grade but be described as damaged. Neither is a 1943 copper cent.

You nailed it JKK, could not have provided a better answer if I tried.

2 hours ago, Conder101 said:

Slab is probably real, they just managed to crack it open without major damage and put the worn Ike in it as a joke.

The inset box is probably because of the domed Apollo dollar.  It probabably needed more thickness to the slab but the prongs didn't need the thickness.

After your very reasonable speculation, I had to run the number.  Came up as an Apollo 11 Dollar but without a grade or a picture. 

6 hours ago, JKK said:

 In the cases like you describe, it isn't about value, but collecting enjoyment. In other cases, the question is at what point does the relative cost become less significant. Of course, if the slabbing adds market value, that's a lower bar to clear.

There might also be a gambling element involved.  You find yourself a new W quarter in the middle of a pristine roll and you think,  HMMM maybe a 68 or 69 here.  Dollar signs are floating above your head as you contemplate the difference between an ordinary W quarter at MS64 and your beautiful MS68. 

5 hours ago, Revenant said:

I saw this over in the coins sub-reddit. Some of the counterfeits are good but this one... Were they even trying?

I'm kind of drawn to it.  But the Ultra Cameo designation is questionable IMHO.  (:

On a related note, I am going to take my two Apollo 11 Halves to the PAN show tomorrow and have them graded by ANACS.  I love the style of their current slab and since PAN is a second tier show, the only other grading company attending is SEGS.  

14 hours ago, Greenstang said:

It is not worth getting a coin graded unless it has a value of at least $150.00 

and what you have is only worth face value.

I've had coins graded worth less than 150.00, like some of my chopmarked coins.  I've done this mostly because I want uber protection of a coin that has some sentimental value.  But in general, if you are looking at it from a purely market standpoint, then150.00 is probably a good benchmark.

Just now, jgrinz said:

Why you looking at a 1881p :-)  

Oh Yeah, sorry dyxlexia.  But you can find the 1889 VAMS at the same location.

17 hours ago, Revenant said:

Huh. Now that is an interesting one. If he never had the coin in his possession and it was refunded I'm not even sure he could call that theft or be confident that it was stolen. Unless the dealer had given him a tracking number and they could confirm that it "went missing" in transit then I'd more likely suspect that the seller decided they didn't want to let the coin go at that price, pretended it was lost, and returned the money - the seller backed out on the deal. That's what I'd suspect in that situation anyway.

But once he was refunded / compensated for it, it wasn't his coin / property to claim anymore. If it was stolen and recovered it would be the property of the dealer at that point. Like you, I could have seen keeping in registered for a while just to see if you could catch the dealer pulling a fast one but... This is actually one of the reasons I don't like registering things until they physically reach my door, even if I know the cert#. I'm always afraid it'll get lost in the mail and then I'll have to deregister it … and that's just sad times.

Forgot to add, the "owner" actually wrote a kind of scathing post to the NGC community about my alleged malfeasance, although he did not actually name me "The Beaw's Den".  But it was obvious from what he wrote that it was directed at me.  I wrote an equally scathing post in response which basically called him out for being an insufficiently_thoughtful_person.

LOL, I purposely added an insult that would generate "insufficiently_thoughtful_person", just to amuse myself.

Here's another interesting twist, I had been an active member 2010-2011 timeframe but then left and pulled most of my coins out of the registry.  For some reason, maybe forgetfullness, maybe a thought I would return shortly, I left my proof Sacagawea dollars in their set.  When I returned, I still had all the original Sacs plus the new ones since 2011, when I placed them back in the registry, the 2000-2011 came back as already registered and the "owner" was going to be contacted.  Well I was the owner.  So I let the 72 hours pass, and the coins successfully transferred.   BTW, the reason I did not approve the transfer immediately is because the notice probably went to my old defunct work email address.