Just Bob

NGC price guide lists a MS 63 (the lowest grade they have listed with a price) at $300, but Ebay sales indicate that circulated examples, which yours appears to be, sell in the $100-$150 price range. I think you would be better off selling it raw with good pictures. I would guess the grade as AU55.

FS numbers are numbers assigned by Bill Fivaz and J.T. Stanton in the "Cherrypickers' Guide to Rare Die Varieties," and denote doubled die varieties, repunched mintmarks, etc. Welcome to the forum.

Some kid saw one of those ads with the scissors that can cut through a Lincoln cent and decided to try it himself. So, he got some scissors out of the sewing box, and gave it a go. Then, he got his butt whipped for ruining Mom's best scissors. Then he was told, "It's okay. It was Mommy's fault for leaving the scissors where you could find them." Welcome to the forum, Carleigh.

From the Charter, Article 13, Section 4: "Elected Officials, Officers, Special Officers and key employees are prohibited from taking any action or doing any act that could jeopardize the Association's 501(c)(3) nonprofit status." So, yes, apparently it is set up that way.

It appears we may actually agree on this point. I personally see nothing wrong or odd with this scenario. The nicer coin should bring the nicer price, and the grade should not be adjusted to "fit" the price. I don't think the collector market requires TPGs to manipulate the grade to match the value. I think most educated collectors can figure it out for themselves. The dealer market may require it, (and from the posts that I have read on this forum, apparently they do) but that, in my opinion, is to the detriment of the hobby.

If it is, it has to be one of the worst attempts that I have ever seen.

Nope. This appears to be one of a "chain" of coins that were soldered together, possibly to make a piece of jewelry. It was broken apart from the "chain." It could have been something similar to the one below, although it appears to have been soldered edge-to-edge, instead of overlapping.

How do you know that this is the result of an experimental wash, and not just normal toning?

I would like to see a closer picture of the full obverse, if you don't mind.

I seriously wonder if you sometimes cringe before you post articles, knowing that you are almost certainly going to get a few sarcastic remarks - whatever the subject matter.

Well, you only have 517 posts. What can you expect?

The quality of internet photos is also highly variable. That can make it difficult to compare coins of the same grade.

Although you spoke to me, that quote was by brg5658.

My wife and I had a brief discussion on this subject last night. My take is that as long as the government can make a profit from seigniorage, they will continue to mint coins. At some point, though, there will be a transition to a completely cashless society, at least above ground. Some cash, or at least metals, may still be used as "barter" in underground transactions.

I did not say they didn't mix metals. I mentioned brass. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. I mentioned pewter. Pewter is an alloy of tin, antimony (or lead, in earlier times), copper, bismuth, and sometimes, silver. Coins made from silver were almost always mixed with some metal, usually copper. My point was that the way the quote from Coinquest was worded could be misleading. Your replica is very likely pewter, which is why some silver showed in the test. I am just trying to help you understand that your coin is a replica, and that many of them have been, and are still being, made and sold. Evidently, I am doing a poor job of it. If you want to disagree with my assessment, that is fine.

I have no idea what the silver content of this particular replica is, so I can't say whether or not it would be worth it to melt it for the silver and I am not even sure how to go about doing that. If you do sell it to someone who is not a dealer or knowledgeable collector, make sure you do it with full disclosure.

China, most likely.

Here is the picture you requested.

Genuine coins were struck in silver; they were also struck in pewter, and they were also struck in brass. They were not struck in an alloy of silver and pewter. The interpretation depends on how the sentence is written and how you read it. Not all replicas have the "R" struck on them. In fact, most of the examples posted on here don't have it. If you look at pictures of genuine examples, you can easily see differences in your coin and a genuine coin. Copies and replicas have been made and sold for many years and in many places. There is no hard and fast rule as far as the weight being the same as, or different from, a genuine coin.

Because Matt is a glutton for punishment.

Here you go: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ireland-2011-year-UNC-coin-set-from-1-cent-2-euro-total-8-coins-3-88-euro/123046266039?hash=item1ca62104b7:g:tssAAOSwfXFau3nh

According to this website, the design has been the same since its inception in 2002. (See the screenshot below) https://oldcurrencyexchange.com/2015/04/13/coin-guide-irish-euro-1c/

ditto

"Naval Stores" are products produced from the resin of pine trees, such as lubricants, soaps, paints and varnishes, etc. From the mid 1920s to 1940, J.B. Newton (see my second post on page one) owned production facilities in Brooklyn, Wiggins, and the site of this particular business: Carnes, MS. In addition to the dollar token shown here, tokens were also issued in denominations of 5 cents, 10 cents, 25 cents, 50 cents, and 5 dollars.