Just Bob

I doubt that was the counterfeiters' intent when they created these coins. I feel certain they would have been happy just to fool a few thousand ignorant people.

A computer receives the scan of the original coin, then a computer-controlled engraver engraves the image into the die. I don't see how a die crack would be any harder to reproduce than any other raised device. To the computer, it would be no different than a vine, branch, or any other similarly shaped line.

I think I would return to that beach and look some more

Worst case: Actual gold melt value minus dealer markdown - around $425 or so right now. Best case: about $1100 -$1200. Two examples, both graded NGC MS62, sold at Heritage auction on October 29, 2021 for $1140 each, including the 25% buyer's premium.

I notice that the designer's initials are gone, as well. That die endured some pretty heavy polishing. Question for Lincoln cent collectors: Does a coin have to be missing initials and missing upper walls to be considered a "floating roof?" Or, is it just the roof that matters, even if some of the initials remain?

Sorry, but this is not an error coin. It has been damaged after leaving the mint. Welcome to the forum. Sorry that your first bit of news turned out to be bad news. Keep looking, though. You never know what you might find.

These have always looked like scared little ghosts to me:

SInce we are posting counterfeits:

Sharann and Coinsandmedals both live in the upper part of the state, but I have not seen either one on the forum in a while. Having said that, I think I will send both a PM and check on them.

Don't use anything abrasive, caustic or in any way destructive. That will ruin the coin. Use only pure acetone or distilled water. You only want to remove contaminants, not change the appearance into something that looks unnatural.

Not a follower of the series, but, in my opinion, 63 is as high as one could reasonably expect this coin to grade.

Interesting comment from a man who frequently sneaks in politically motivated comments, and very often makes non-coin related comments, but that is a discussion for another day. And I will contribute my comments, as well. Handguns are used for hunting, competition shooting, personal protection against dangerous animals, and recreational shooting. To say that they are good only for killing people is untrue and shows definite bias. Mentioning "assault" weapons shows the same bias. Surprising, since you said you took a gun safety course. (You didn't actually say that you were in the rifle club or participated in target shooting.) Aside from, in many cases, having a higher capacity magazine, the only differences in what the media and others call "assault rifles" and regular rifles used for hunting are purely cosmetic, or to make the weapon easier to handle or control. They are no more powerful or deadly than a target rifle or "hunting" rifle of the same caliber. It seems very odd that you would cite a fictional musical as evidence, and even more odd that you would claim that "the overall view <was> that there was no place for a hand gun" (sic). That view may have been true for this work of fiction, but it definitely was not the view of the majority of the country in the 1950s. I am neither a member nor a supporter of the NRA, but this statement is also false. The NRA does, in fact, offer a hunter safety course. They also offer other courses; among them are firearms training courses and safety courses for children. This is an intentionally misleading statement. The NRA does not issue hunting licenses. The states issue licenses. You are intelligent enough to know this, so I assume you are implying it to prove your point. I could continue, but I will probably be reported to the moderators for what I have already written, and I don't really wish to be banned, The bottom line: The Second Amendment was not written to protect my right to hunt, or even my right to protect myself. It was written to protect against an overbearing government that would try to take away my freedom.

The cert look-up shows it listed as a PF69UC. It will be interesting to see if NGC calls it a labeling error or an input error. Please keep us informed, Mr. Roshto. I am curious to know how this works out.

Guns don't "sit around waiting" for anything. They are inanimate objects. Additionally, in America, they are much more likely to be handled by a responsible person than an irresponsible one, according to every legitimate statistic I have ever read.

Although it may be tempting to take the word of your local jeweler - whom you may know personally - over the word of some old guys on a chat board - whom you have never met - the information you got from your jeweler is wrong. As far as US coins are concerned, neither quarters nor the blanks from which they are struck are cast, so a "casting error" is out of the question. The odds of your coin being 40% silver are basically zero, as well.

Although there was not much in the auction that I could afford at today's prices, I would love the chance to go back in time and view the Buddy Ebsen collection. He had some amazing coins - quite a few that were finest known examples.

These could also be home made pattern tracing wheels. I remember seeing older ladies who sewed using these many years ago.

Unless you can show a better picture, I am going to have to disagree. The picture that you are showing does not match the picture that I posted.

You are correct. Some of the older NGC 'fatties" and PCGS "rattlers" were more conservatively graded. Notice that I said, "some of..." Not all of them would grade higher if sent back in for a re-grade. I have several MS67 Roosevelts in older holders that, in my opinion, are solid for the grade, but are not candidates for an upgrade.

As far as authenticity, I am not well-versed on these, so I won't even attempt that. As to the grade: If the wear was confined to the high spots that are directly opposite high relief areas on the other side, I might think "weak strike." But it seems to be fairly even across most the lettering and devices, including the rim. Put that with the numerous tics and light scratches, and I will call this one in the lower AU range. On the other hand, if it isn't real, then you can probably toss what I said above out the window. I hope it is real. It is a nice looking piece.

Your link took me to a page that asked me to register with CONECA. Nothing against the organization, but I will pass, at least for now.

If you can take pictures like that with a phone or camera, you may not need a microscope.

Your coin does appear to have some doubling - possibly strike doubling - of the date, but it does not look like the overdate. If it does not match the picture below exactly, it is not the 42/1 D.

Welcome to the forum. Cleaning coins is generally regarded as a bad idea, since it changes the appearance of the coin, and makes it appear unnatural. So, the standard response, when someone asks about cleaning, is, "DON'T!" Forget all of the Youtube videos about soaking in vinegar or using a pencil eraser. All that will do is make your coins worth face value, or not much more. There are, however, a few (mostly) safe methods that you can try. One is to soak your coins in distilled water. Another is to use a light oil, like mineral oil, to try to loosen any crud or corrosion. Be advised that what is under the crud or corrosion may not look much better than what was there before, but that is a chance you take with reactive metals like copper or silver. Another oil that is popular is olive oil. It is slightly acidic, however, and may have an effect of the color of copper coins. A soak in oil usually takes weeks to months, and I have left tokens soaking for over a year. You just have to check them periodically to see if the appearance is changing. And, I have found that it is best to soak coins individually. I discolored a token by soaking it with some Indian Head cents once, so I always separate them now. Acetone is good for flushing off PVC or other residue that a coin might have gotten from being stored improperly. It may not do as well for a verdigris problem as a long oil soak. If you have any other questions, feel free to post them.

Ebay sold prices are running $400 - $550, give or take. These look a bit hazy, but the price isn't really out of line - yet.