My First 9 Coins - NEW PICTURES

[kmax00-migration]

Hello everyone - I love this forum - so many knowledgeable people willing to share their expertise. After a few months of reading books, trolling the forums, and talking to people I made my first binge buy.

 

I decided that instead of throwing all my eggs in one basket, I would diversify by getting some gold, some 19th century type coins, some commemoratives etc. From what I read they are pretty good coins, but I lack real world experience in numismatics.

 

If you have the patience to look through these I would really appreciate any commentary especially since I have a week to decide whether or not to keep them.

 

***** update to post ****

 

I have added new pictures, and based on the comments I got last night it looks like most people believe these coins to be low end for their grades. Hopefully, these pictures will change some opinions, but if not I would love to hear which coins you would keep, if any.

 

Thank you for your time,

 

Kent

 

 

1873 Arrows Seated Dime MS 65 - $4,300

 

1883 Shield Nickel MS 66 - $1,700

 

 

1893 Isabella Quarter MS 65- $3,900

 

 

1899 $2.5 Liberty MS 65 - $3,200

 

1917 Type 1 Standing Liberty MS 66 FH - $1,500

 

1921 Missouri MS 65 - $3,900

 

1925 St. Gaudens MS 66 - $2,900

 

1936 Buffalo Nickel Proof 65 - $2,600

 

 

1939 Mercury Dime Proof 67 - $450

 

[awb]

You spent $24,450 on coins and now you're looking for assurance that you made the right move?

[robec1347]

Wow!! I think you got off to a great start. Some pretty nice high grade stuff. From what I can see each and every one is clean and sharp. Very nice. (thumbs u (thumbs u

[michael]

please see my pm to you

 

 

[lkenefic]

Definitely some high end stuff, but a quick look at the PCGS website indicates you spend at or near full PCGS suggested retail...I hope your going long works out for you...L

[Broc Mitchell]

While I would feel bad for the person who sold these coins to you if you were to return them, I am inclined to suggest just that.

 

The reason is a collector should have direction in their purchasing. If you throw your money at some random (and very nice!) coins, eventually you may or most likely will find your self dissatisfied overall. If you set a direction and work at goals in your collecting you will feel more accomplished and proud with each piece you buy.

 

On the aspect of investing, buying coins so rapidly with, as you say, no real world coin experience will lead to almost certain doom. You may not know what is a proper price for the pieces you are buying. You may not know the price trends and history for the series or dates you are purchasing. You may not be able to spot a potential problem coin even if it is slabbed by one of the top TPG's.

 

With the money you spent on these coins you could sit down and lay out a logical goal for your first venture in collecting/investing. You could put together a simple type set from a range of your favorite type of coins, a first year of issue collection, last year of issue collection. High grade set from a short series (Flying Eagle Cents or Copper Nickel 3c's come to mind) or start on a MS-65 set of Morgans.

 

I am not a professional in the coin arena, I am a modest collector and sell from time to time over the internet or at coin shows. If I had a store of cash to invest in coins with my personal focus would be: Firstly coins I truly like, if you don't like them what makes you think someone else will when you go to sell them? Second, coins that have desireable attributes to them, super eye appeal, toning, special type features (like FSB, FBL, PL, DMPL, DCAM etc.) or low reported populations (the last with care). Another thing that I would weigh heavily on is price point per grade point. For example, if a coin is worth $300 in MS-65 and $3000 in MS-66 there is a greater chance you can lose money on the MS-66 if: the series becomes less popular or hits a slump for some reason, it happens to be an overgrade you didn't catch or more high grade examples suddenly hit the market, any of these scenarios will close that gap between value per grade point significantly.

 

In any case, welcome to the hobby and best of luck!

 

-Broc

[Raybo55]

I'm crying.....no wait.....I'm laughing.......WHAT THE @!

 

I didn't look up any prices but you sure did jump in feet first!

I sure do wish I had that kinda capitol to fill my 7070 or whatever.

 

I'm brain dead,

 

Ray

 

 

 

[Hoot]

I think that if you can afford it, diversity is good. Collecting strategies vary widely, and what you have done amounts to getting started on a fabulous Type collection. The coins you chose reflect what appeals to you - they are all high-end, and all veritably untoned. That proclivity is not uncommon among beginning collectors and may or may not evolve with time and your personal experience. Again ~ if you can afford it ~ you won't lose here in terms of experience, although when you go to sell any one of the coins, you might lose some cash. You paid reasonable retail for each coin, and that's fine, just don't expect it back if you change your mind about a coin sooner than later.

 

Give yourself all the latitude you need to diversify into collecting Type, and if a special series appeals to you as you go, then you can go for that as well. Also, don't get attached to any of the coins - they are just coins after all. You may decide down the road that you only like Very Good and Fine seated half dollars (or circumstances change so that's all you can afford) - so be it. Jettison the fluff and go with what you like. Collecting for fun and passion are the primary reasons to collect; all of your personal smarts will come as you need them.

 

Very nice beginning.

 

Hoot

[kmax00-migration]

I really appreciate the candid comments - I'm considering returning a few of the pieces as they are just not appealing enough for me (ie the seated dime without a defined head).

 

Several of the coins I just really liked, and could see me collecting in the future once funds become available again, such as an MS 65 Silver Commemorative set or the 1936 Proof set in MS 65.

 

Regarding the price I paid - I wanted to make sure that I got what I paid for, and I had heard glowing reviews of the person I bought from - I figured peace of mind justified the premium, but perhaps there are many other reputable dealers from which to purchase...

 

Thanks again - Kent

[just-john]

Bet your single.I like the $2.5 Liberty and the Missouri 2x2 the best aways liked them and the Shield Nickel. If you got the money beats buying a car . But before you go shopping again you should take one of those coins into a different shop and see what you would get or be offered for it. My question was this at a coin store or did buy these at auction.If your going to spend 25 grand at a time you should get a pro to work with you. Their advice never hurts and it always better before the purchases than after.

[Arizonadesertrat]

I echo some of the previous sentiments. It's hard to judge from photos of the obverses of the coins alone, but my sense is that the Shield nickel has the best eye appeal for the grade. I really don't care for the dimes. I strongly encourage you to carefully read recent books by Scott Travers and Q. David Bowers regarding investing in coins---many high-grade coins are simply not good investments at this time. Given that you spent ca. $24-25K, I think that you could have spent it much more wisely. There are many kinds of coins that will likely give you more investment bang for your buck at this time, including MS65RD large cents, MS65-66 RB/RD matte proof Lincoln cents, nice AU58 or MS64 Seated Liberty dollars, some of the MS64-65DMPL Morgan dollars, etc.

 

It is very much in your interest to visit coin shops to whatever extent you can (and/or attend coin shows) and physically inspect LOTS of coins. This is the only way to develop a sense of technical grade and eye appeal. Particularly since you intend to buy coins for investment purposes, you need to make sure that you buy coins that are nice for their grades. Simply being certified and slabbed will not guarantee this.

 

I would send most of the coins back because some of them are low end and others have so-so investment potential.

[IGWT]

Did you take the pictures down? I can't see them. Even so, you'll likely be disappointed in more ways than one if buy coins primarily as an investment.

 

Edited to add: I can see the pictures now, and I'll comment only on the Shield 5c because that's primarily what I've collected for a long time. I can talk somewhat intelligently about collecting, but not investing. Still, my opinions as a collector might have some relevance because, if you see yourself as an investor in rare coins, you should buy a Shield 5c that you could sell to me, an enthusiastic collector of the series.

 

Unfortunately, I would not make an offer on your 1883 because the coin just doesn't appeal to me. I can find a coin like that any day of the week, and for less money, too. I'm not saying that you got cheated in any way, except that you cheated yourself as an investor by not understanding what motivates me as a collector. And, if you see yourself as a collector, you cheated yourself out of the fun of learning the nuances of a series before spending your money.

[Stanley]

This is a strange post

[MAULEMALL]

This is a strange post

,,,Yea ,,,No ones brought up the consortium

[MAULEMALL]

How did you come to a price for the coins??

Did he just give a price or did you haggle any??

[Stanley]

This is a strange post

,,,Yea ,,,No ones brought up the consortium

 

Stranger if you read the previous post. Just my opinion of course. I could be wrong.

http://boards.collectors-society.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=2&Number=1800153&Searchpage=1&Main=101187&Words=+kentmhall&topic=0&Search=true#Post1800153

 

That could be like calling a fuel truck to a house fire.

[rrantique]

This is a strange post

,,,Yea ,,,No ones brought up the consortium

 

Stranger if you read the previous post. Just my opinion of course. I could be wrong.

http://boards.collectors-society.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=2&Number=1800153&Searchpage=1&Main=101187&Words=+kentmhall&topic=0&Search=true#Post1800153

 

That could be like calling a fuel truck to a house fire.

 

 

[MAULEMALL]

This is a strange post

,,,Yea ,,,No ones brought up the consortium

 

Stranger if you read the previous post. Just my opinion of course. I could be wrong.

http://boards.collectors-society.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=2&Number=1800153&Searchpage=1&Main=101187&Words=+kentmhall&topic=0&Search=true#Post1800153

 

That could be like calling a fuel truck to a house fire.

 

 

It does seem to be a bit Ironic ,,

He brought up the Snake and the devil... I wonder when the apple will drop..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[just-john]

My investment strategy in coins has two sides .Coins I have purchased.Like today I went to the local coin shop sold 10- 2006-p silver eagle proof that I paid $29.95 ea for $20.00 lost

only $99.95. Then there's the coins I have won coins Vegas in the 50s and coins left to me by family members. Have no desire to sell any of those but my Kids who are not Kids any more should make out pretty well. Investing in mining companys like Phelps Dodge would have made a good return in the last 6yrs or some of the gold mining companys are better than coins.But coins are more fun.

[MarkFeld]

Hello everyone - I love this forum - so many knowledgeable people willing to share their expertise. After a few months of reading books, trolling the forums, and talking to people I made my first binge buy.

 

I decided that instead of throwing all my eggs in one basket, I would diversify by getting some gold, some 19th century type coins, some commemoratives etc. From what I read they are pretty good coins, but I lack real world experience in numismatics.

 

If you have the patience to look through these I would really appreciate any commentary especially since I have a week to decide whether or not to keep them.

 

***** update to post ****

 

I have added new pictures, and based on the comments I got last night it looks like most people believe these coins to be low end for their grades. Hopefully, these pictures will change some opinions, but if not I would love to hear which coins you would keep, if any.

 

Thank you for your time,

 

Kent

 

 

1873 Arrows Seated Dime MS 65 - $4,300

 

1883 Shield Nickel MS 66 - $1,700

 

 

1893 Isabella Quarter MS 65- $3,900

 

 

1899 $2.5 Liberty MS 65 - $3,200

 

1917 Type 1 Standing Liberty MS 66 FH - $1,500

 

1921 Missouri MS 65 - $3,900

 

1925 St. Gaudens MS 66 - $2,900

 

1936 Buffalo Nickel Proof 65 - $2,600

 

 

1939 Mercury Dime Proof 67 - $450

The price of the 1899 $2.50 seems way out of line to me. You should be able to get an MS65 in approximately the low $2000 range. The fact that you would even consider buying such a coin at anywhere near that price tells me that you would be far better off studying and learning about the rare coin market/price levels and not spending your money at this time. There will still be plenty of nice or nicer coins available later. I apologize if that sounds harsh, but that is the best honest way that I can put it

[MAULEMALL]

You Know Mark, And I am being serious here, I think you were actually too easy on him...

 

None of the coins pictured do all that much to attract my interest for anywhere Near the price he paid..

I am not saying I don't like the coins.I think the $2 1/2 is probably awesome in hand..

I also like the SLQ and I think the Pr Buff is hot ,the rest to me are just for the money.

 

 

Maybe you could extend Anaconda and D.Hall an invite over to give their opinions.

[Stanley]

Mark.. I don’t mean to be picking but I also believe you are being too easy. These coins appear to be maxed out in grades and seems he paid top retail prices. In addition, he seems to be doing this all in the name of investing actually taking money out of stock investments.

I’m sorry to say this but I’m starting to see some double standards all over the board here.

 

[MarkFeld]

Mark.. I don’t mean to be picking but I also believe you are being too easy. These coins appear to be maxed out in grades and seems he paid top retail prices. In addition, he seems to be doing this all in the name of investing actually taking money out of stock investments.

I’m sorry to say this but I’m starting to see some double standards all over the board here.

For the most part, the coins don't look bad to me and I don't know how accurate the images are. So, instead, I focused on the one coin whose price seemed excessively high and made my comments/suggestions about studying and learning right now, instead of spending money.

[Stanley]

Mark.. I don’t mean to be picking but I also believe you are being too easy. These coins appear to be maxed out in grades and seems he paid top retail prices. In addition, he seems to be doing this all in the name of investing actually taking money out of stock investments.

I’m sorry to say this but I’m starting to see some double standards all over the board here.

For the most part, the coins don't look bad to me and I don't know how accurate the images are. So, instead, I focused on the one coin whose price seemed excessively high and made my comments/suggestions about studying and learning right now, instead of spending money.

I don’t want to come across as being mean spirited on this.

 

If I were to post any single one of them coins in here with the grades assigned I would have every one telling me how there over graded.

God help me I post the prices. Some were purchased from a company where the owner does his own grading and sells nothing else. I can not compare David Hall to an ebay seller who slabs his own, that wouldn’t be fair, but is it not similar? There all in PCGS holders..Do I smell kool - aid?

 

I have myself and seen others make a $50.00 error in judgment and be told up front about mistakes. Could it be just by coincidence that this set of coins appeared to be acceptable to the posters? It seems to me a $50.00 mistake should be less painful than a $24,000.00 mistake.

 

On the other hand perhaps a person who spends $24,000.00 a pop for collectables is to be dealt with a differently than one who buys $100.00 - $ 800.00 a pop.

 

Let me reiterate, I’m stating this in a friendly manner and I do not want to come across as insulting.

 

I agree, they don’t look bad and they do not look special for the grades. And one of my points is that doesn’t represent a good investment.

 

[MarkFeld]

Mark.. I don’t mean to be picking but I also believe you are being too easy. These coins appear to be maxed out in grades and seems he paid top retail prices. In addition, he seems to be doing this all in the name of investing actually taking money out of stock investments.

I’m sorry to say this but I’m starting to see some double standards all over the board here.

For the most part, the coins don't look bad to me and I don't know how accurate the images are. So, instead, I focused on the one coin whose price seemed excessively high and made my comments/suggestions about studying and learning right now, instead of spending money.

I don’t want to come across as being mean spirited on this.

 

If I were to post any single one of them coins in here with the grades assigned I would have every one telling me how there over graded.

God help me I post the prices. Some were purchased from a company where the owner does his own grading and sells nothing else. I can not compare David Hall to an ebay seller who slabs his own, that wouldn’t be fair, but is it not similar? There all in PCGS holders..Do I smell kool - aid?

 

I have myself and seen others make a $50.00 error in judgment and be told up front about mistakes. Could it be just by coincidence that this set of coins appeared to be acceptable to the posters? It seems to me a $50.00 mistake should be less painful than a $24,000.00 mistake.

 

On the other hand perhaps a person who spends $24,000.00 a pop for collectables is to be dealt with a differently than one who buys $100.00 - $ 800.00 a pop.

 

Let me reiterate, I’m stating this in a friendly manner and I do not want to come across as insulting.

 

I agree, they don’t look bad and they do not look special for the grades. And one of my points is that doesn’t represent a good investment.

Stanley, I'm not seeing this thread the same way you are. I have read a number of posts which are critical of the coins and/or the prices and/or buying coins in this manner, apparently based upon very limited knowledge.

[UScoinrunner88-migration]

CV lists these coins at about $28k. I personally love those coins. Would I have bought them if I had no prior knowledge of the coin market, probably not. Those coins have leveled off and are at their peak value, with the personal exception of the Mercury Dime PF.

 

For one thing, I would have done atleast some investigation in the market to know if you are getting coins worth what you paid. I think you could flip these for exactly the price you paid. Most will sell for less than what you paid, but some will sell for much more than you paid.

 

Those are also some great looking pictures of each coin.

[MarkFeld]

.... I think you could flip these for exactly the price you paid. Most will sell for less than what you paid, but some will sell for much more than you paid...

 

I disagree strongly, and feel that those are reckless comments to make. But, rather than take my word for it, I'd suggest checking it out.

[WinstonWare]

Ah, these coins remind me of my first few purchases

[123cents]

All the coins are very nice but the prices you paid for them is ridiculous.

[Arizonadesertrat]

The new set of photos helps. The coins look better than I thought last night (OK, but not great), but I am still not bullish on these as good investments in today's market. On balance, you also paid too much, but at least you didn't buy them from outfits in Beaumont, Texas. It would have been in your interest to shop around and bargain---most of these items (or similar ones in similar grades) are available in dealer inventories on the internet for less.

 

Travers has a new paperback, entitled 'Top 88 Coins to Buy and Sell'----this would be a good place to start in deciding FOR YOURSELF (rather than having a dealer decide for you) what you should buy. Other sources of information are available on certain dealer websites and major hobby magazines like Coin World. You spent about $25K on your portfolio. How much have you spent on reference materials (books and magazine subscriptions)---several thousand for these items, spent over the next couple of years, would be appropriate for your spending level (and the money spent would be well worth it). Not all gem MS/PF coins are good investments at this time and, conversely, there are many good investments in nice XF-AU coins that seem undervalued right now.

 

Since you are buying coins as investments, you need to recognize the fact that rare coins are not fungible in the sense that stocks or bullion are. If you need to cash out in a hurry, you could easily loose a bundle at the rate you are spending. You should not plan on merely holding your coins for a couple of years----long-term holding (and patience) will be needed to reap a profit. Think about how you intend to sell your coins--to dealers, on ebay, via consignment to an auction house? This will impact your bottom financial line AND possibly affect what kinds of numismatic material you should consider purchasing.

 

Please don't take the negative comments (including mine) too hard. Coin collectors are a tough crowd to please. BTW, whatever mistake you conclude that you may have made in buying this coin portfolio isn't so different from what I did when I returned to the hobby after a 25 year hiatus. Take your time, do your homework, and enjoy the thrill of the hunt.