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Is there a fool-proof way to tell if a proof/mint set has been opened?

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I know many of you do a bit of proof/mint set hunting. Do you have a techniques you use to tell if they have been opened?

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The only way I check is get a mag glass and check the edges for any type of chips, breaks, or small globs of glue.. You may find chips, but where you do, I usually try to open with just my fingers at that point. If it don't budge, I don't worry about it.

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Current US Mint Proof sets can be opened with no visible trace that they have been tampered with. I discovered this when I opened a few to add coins to a Dansco Album. It is possible to break the case while opening, but it is also very possible to access the coins without visual evidence to the case.

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I have opened a few Mint silver sets without damaging the cases. I don't think you can tell if the cases have been opened before.

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Current US Mint Proof sets can be opened with no visible trace that they have been tampered with. I discovered this when I opened a few to add coins to a Dansco Album. It is possible to break the case while opening, but it is also very possible to access the coins without visual evidence to the case.

 

I noticed the same thing with the SMS sets. When I wrote the OP I had in mind the flatpacks from the 50's and 60's. Specifically, the outside envelope.

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Is there a fool-proof way to tell if a proof/mint set has been opened?

Yes, crack it open yourself and you can be assured that it has been opened. insane.gif893scratchchin-thumb.gif

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I've pondered that same question, and I concluded, the only way to know its untouched is to buy it from the US mint. I've also decided a "good" proof set is assembled not bought from OMP.

 

I am coming to think of "original mint packaging", like I would an album. It's just too easy to buy empty OMP from eBay.

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I've pondered that same question, and I concluded, the only way to know its untouched is to buy it from the US mint. I've also decided a "good" proof set is assembled not bought from OMP.

 

I am coming to think of "original mint packaging", like I would an album. It's just too easy to buy empty OMP from eBay.

 

 

maybe so but then how do you explain the ones from the mint with finger prints?

i always get suspicious if my proof sets don't have three wraps of scotch tape around them.............just kidding.

 

893applaud-thumb.gif

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I have never really tried to open any of my mint sets. I thought that these were sonically sealed?

 

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I opened the 2006 NICKEL proof sets with my finger nails, its like an airtite. I also opened several 1968s the same way.

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I have opened "LOTS" of 71 sets they have all broken with rough edges so i dont think you could re-seal them without any one knowing.. thumbsup2.gif

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I have opened "LOTS" of 71 sets they have all broken with rough edges so i dont think you could re-seal them without any one knowing.. thumbsup2.gif

 

Did you have to break these open Dooly, or were they that way. I'm wondering if the later sets were sealed or not. I really don't want to experiment with mine. It would be my luck I'd get it open and here nothing but metal bouncing off the floor! 27_laughing.gif

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Can't speak for the older ones, but the proof sets from (at least) 1982 to date are easy to open by sticking the edge of an exacto knife in and working your way around the lens to torque it open.

 

My mom bought me a few proof sets from a dealer back in 99 through 02 and one of them has a fingerprint on a coin. Clearly, it had been opened.

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Can't speak for the older ones, but the proof sets from (at least) 1982 to date are easy to open by sticking the edge of an exacto knife in and working your way around the lens to torque it open.

 

My mom bought me a few proof sets from a dealer back in 99 through 02 and one of them has a fingerprint on a coin. Clearly, it had been opened.

 

 

Could that not have been from the mint worker. I dont see a whole lot of reason for opening a common date proof set. Or were they Silver? confused-smiley-013.gif

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There is a great deal that can be written on this subject. I'll start with the mint sets since this is the area with which I am more familiar. The '65 set was shipped out in boxes which can be found unopened. The individual sets were not sealed unless they were fullfillment for an order of a single set but this will be obvious if you can find one. Sealed envelopes were moistened after they left the mint. These require very little moisture and many self sealed from being in a damp place. Coins are usually unaffected but it's wise to open a few if you see a large quantity. '66 and '67 sets were shilpped in blue boxes. There were sealed for registered delivery and can be found unopened. The individual boxes and cases can be opened but rarely are. The way to spot put together sets is to look for bad coins. If there are no bad coins then you can be sure the sets were assembled from rejects. There will normally be a large percentage of tarnished and ugly coins. SMS's are usually picked over for cameos.

 

'68 sets are sometimes seen in large sealed boxes. The individual sets have glue on the flaps but these rarely self seal so most sealed ones were done by a previous owner. The individual coins possibly could be swapped out but this is highly improbable and would likely leave traces. It's more likely that someone might pull a nice packet out and replace it with another. This is not common. There are a lot of tarnished '68 sets so take a look first. All the '68 cents have carbon spots and the vast majority of the half dollars will be dark so don't expect perfection.

 

'69-'74 sets were shipped (mostly) in "bags" of five. These will obviously be sealed if undisturbed. The individual sets have glue but weren't sealed from '69 to '71 while the '72 to '74 have no glue. Some '70 sets appear in '71 bags or envelopes. There's much less tarnish on these. Sets are rarely picked over except for the Ikes.

 

'75-'84 sets were shipped in boxes of five as well.

 

'85-'98 used a new and much stiffer pliofilm without the interior soft layers. Some '86 envelopes have glue but these weren't sealed at the mint.

 

If looking for mint sets always try to find them as close to the source as possible. This source is the original owner who usually bought five of each date from the mint. These will have been stored together so will look alike. They are often stored right in the original opened shipping box but this will be discarded by the dealer. Alway look to see that there is a lot of variation in the quality of the coins; if there isn't then there's a good chance that they are heavily picked over. Look for nice clean envelopes since this is indication that they've sat most of the time or were stored in the box.

 

Remember the the gems run in batches and you can't expect every set to have some. As a rule of thumb there should be one near gem or better in about two sets out of three. There is wide variation from year to year so you'll need to adjust your expectations.

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I have opened "LOTS" of 71 sets they have all broken with rough edges so i dont think you could re-seal them without any one knowing.. thumbsup2.gif

 

Did you have to break these open Dooly, or were they that way. I'm wondering if the later sets were sealed or not. I really don't want to experiment with mine. It would be my luck I'd get it open and here nothing but metal bouncing off the floor! 27_laughing.gif

 

Wayne opening a 71 set 1830355-3_8_14.giflol

1830355-3_8_14.gif.a43b0b601be6d2ba8f613ad019c8e47b.gif

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Re: Is there a fool-proof way to tell if a proof/mint set has been opened?

 

no..................................

 

possibly some of the time you can tell but most of the time you cant

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Thanks for that insight Cladking, much appreciated from a newbie. Looking for variety in the set, is a great tip. I had actually been doing the opposite, thinking the bad ones were all put together after being picked through.

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I have opened "LOTS" of 71 sets they have all broken with rough edges so i dont think you could re-seal them without any one knowing.. thumbsup2.gif

 

Did you have to break these open Dooly, or were they that way. I'm wondering if the later sets were sealed or not. I really don't want to experiment with mine. It would be my luck I'd get it open and here nothing but metal bouncing off the floor! 27_laughing.gif

 

Wayne opening a 71 set 1830355-3_8_14.giflol

 

20 more sets arived today 893applaud-thumb.gif (had to pay VAT on them Bummer!) frown.gif

 

there is two in the lot with finger prints on them i will scan them when i open them..

 

also i have notest that there are numbers impressed in to the cardboard wrappers and the coins seem to match in them .. could this be a way of telling if there are some nice coins in the set ?? 893scratchchin-thumb.gif

all the best dooly thumbsup2.gif

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The 1968 - 1998 proof sets were sonicly sealed. Sometimes you can crack these sets open and reclose them without evidence but normally if you examine the edge closely you can tell. Since 1999 the proof sets have not been sealed at all and can easily be opened and reclosed with no evidence of tampering.

 

The unsealed sets caused a lot of scams on eBay back in 1999 and 2000. When the first 1999 proof sets came out there were suddenly a lot of "error" sets listed on eBay that were missing one of the state quarters and having a duplicate of one of them. These sets were bringing up to $250 each. Of course since the sets weren't sealed the scammer just bought five sets, opened them up, swapped quarters around, closed the sets, and you now have five sets that would sell for $250 each.

 

In 2000 the scam was to get a 2000 set, open it, replace the coins with 1999 coins and the Sac with the 99-P proof Anthony, close the set and slip it into a 1999 box. These were then sold on eBay with the story about how right at the end of the Year the Mint produced a small number of 10 coin 1999 proof sets for VIPs. These scam sets could sell for more than $450 each.

 

And of course there is always the possibility of silver quarter sets being opened and the quarters being swapped for clad proof coins. Think about it. You have a 2001 silver set or silver quarter set. You pull the silver quarters and send them for slabbing replacing them with clad. Then you sell the slabbed silver proofs, an the "silver" clad set. you effectively get double the money, and the faked set will probably not be detected and stick maybe 80% of the time, or more.

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Dang Conder, you sure give a reason to open every proof set I've gotten from ebay now to see if the qtrs are silver! Christo_pull_hair.gif

 

Short of throwing them on the floor and listening carefully how could you tell?

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Dang Conder, you sure give a reason to open every proof set I've gotten from ebay now to see if the qtrs are silver! Christo_pull_hair.gif

 

Short of throwing them on the floor and listening carefully how could you tell?

 

Well the way I see them, when comparing them to each other, the silver looks to have a slightly brighter finish and the designs have a more brighter satiny look. Even the rim looks to have a brighter, more silver colored finish than the clad.

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Short of throwing them on the floor and listening carefully how could you tell?

Simple, easy method. Take the set out of the box and lay a single layer of tissue paper paper over the set. (Kleenex or toilet paper. Paper towel is too thick.) Copper-nickel clad coins will appear as gray circles. Silver coins will appear as white circles. If you wish, use another set with known clad proofs as a control. Once you see it you will be shocked at the difference in the color.

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tricks of the trade...I just tried it with an Ike and Morgan..wow what a difference!

 

very cool!

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