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Never clean your coins. Wrong. Never Improperly clean your coins. Lesson 1: Using Acetone to clean a coin.
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66 posts in this topic

On 5/24/2024 at 1:20 PM, ldhair said:

I'll say it again. You learn to know if a coin can be helped before you ever touch it. If a person does not have that skill, they should not try to conserve coins or try to teach the topic. 

So you've never soaked a proof coin and found it impaired in a way you couldn't see they all come out perfect huh? You're a wizard. Certified Master of the realm. Cheers

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Posted (edited)
On 5/24/2024 at 3:22 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

So you've never soaked a proof coin and found it impaired in a way you couldn't see

Sure I have and I learned from it. I picked the wrong coin to try to conserve. 

With proofs, few spots can be helped. Most of the time the mirror surface is already damaged. With matte proofs the best at conservation, don't even want to deal with them. 

Acetone can be really helpful when breaking down albums and folders. It knocks off any cardboard dust from the coin before going into the next holder. At the same time the acetone may remove junk that is hiding minor hits on the coin. That can kill the looks of a nice XF to AU coin. Every coin requires thought on the proper process.  

Edited by ldhair
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Posted (edited)

To my my most faithful and devoted fan  @zadok , and the membership-at-large...

1.  z:  be assured you will be reimbursed for disabling your "sad" emoji which saw more action than the Marines at Iwo Jima;

2.  I was diagnosed as a "Danny Downer" by the OP. Sandon was elevated to "Rocket Scientist" which effectively supersedes his status as "Newbie."

3.  All kindly note my contribution to broadening the "body of knowledge": The "Q" in Q-tip stands for Quality.

4.  Contrary to the OP's claim, two photos of the "washed-out" FEC remain. Seek and ye shall find.

5.  Acetone, one of the most common and effective liquids used to rinse powdered cocaine, is banned for export to coca-leaf producing countries by the USG, and remains on its list of prohibited precursor products.

6.  Acetone... prolonged exposure to its toxic fumes in enclosed areas without adequate ventilation is the reason why workers of primarily Asian owned nail salons are plagued by headaches, dizziness, memory-loss and ultimately brain damage (as reported in a paper of record.);

7.  Whatever the justification for its use, as with clothing and accessories, it is always best to apply acetone on sample coins of equal composition and quality but lesser value first. The OP crows his FEC looks fine, notably using a term no one else has:  "washed-out";

8.  "Wrong" is rude and disrespectful. Only Kurt is allowed to use that  descriptor. (You can only be insulted or become angry, if you allow yourself to be.  That is why z and me get along swimmingly well. Besides, he's obliged to defend Oldhoopster's honor. I understand.);

9.  Post left blank.

10. @ Idhair:  I did, in fact, accept your offer to "teach me," but moderation thought the better of it.

(Posted at the discretion of Moderation, with my express assent.)

Edited by Henri Charriere
Duplicated post (with two edits) posted following this ine.
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On 5/24/2024 at 8:18 PM, Henri Charriere said:

To my my most faithful and devoted fan  @zadok , and the membership-at-large...

1.  z:  be assured you will be reimbursed for disabling your "sad" emoji which saw more action than the Marines at Iwo Jima;

2.  I was diagnosed as a "Danny Downer" by the OP. Sandon was elevated to "Rocket Scientist" which effectively supersedes his status as "Newbie."

3.  All kindly note my contribution to broadening the "body of knowledge": The "Q" in Q-tip stands for Quality.

4.  Contrary to the OP's claim, two photos of the "washed-out" FEC remain. Seek and ye shall find.

5.  Acetone, one of the most common and effective liquids used to rinse powdered cocaine, is banned for export to coca-leaf producing countries by the USG, and remains on its list of prohibited precursor products.

6.  Acetone... prolonged exposure to its toxic fumes in enclosed areas without adequate ventilation is the reason why workers of primarily Asian owned nail salons are plagued by headaches, dizziness, memory-loss and ultimately brain damage (as reported in a paper of record.);

7.  Whatever the justification for its use, as with clothing and accessories, it is always best to apply acetone on sample coins of equal composition and quality but lesser value first. The OP crows his FEC looks fine, notably using a term no one else has:  "washed-out";

8.  "Wrong" is rude and disrespectful. Only Kurt is allowed to use that  descriptor. (You can only be insulted or become angry, if you allow yourself to be.  That is why z and me get along swimmingly well. Besides, he's obliged to defend Oldhoopster's honor. I understand.);

9. Most cringe-worthy comment may be found on OP's first line of his opening post: "Using a Q-tip, soak Q-tip in acetone and in a light pressure motion swirl the Q-tip on the surface of the coin..."

10. .Later, in the same post, he advises ".....an optional dip bath in distilled water and pat dry (do not rub) and it's done."  To sum up, use pressure while using a chemical, but use kid gloves and caution after using distilled water.  A real head-scratcher if ever you've seen one.

Note:  Points 9 and 10 were edits.

(Posted at the discretion of Moderation, with my express assent.)

 

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On 5/24/2024 at 3:08 PM, ldhair said:

Wrong. Some proofs can be helped with an acetone bath. Knowing if a proof or an MS coin can be helped is something that must be learned.

Agree.

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This thread makes me think of the hundreds of folks that come to the coin forums and post a coin they have killed, trying to conserve them. This is one of the reasons that collectors are told to not clean their coins. Conservation is something that very few will try to teach on the forums.  

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Posted (edited)
On 5/25/2024 at 12:42 PM, ldhair said:

.... Conservation is something that very few will try to teach on the forums.  

That, and most regrettably...

"What makes you think this is a counterfeit? Teach me!"

This is where my path and those trod by the highly-acclaimed seasoned veterans on the various forums,who really ought to know better, diverge.  Absolutely ridiculous that some illiterate fella in Guandong province would a). fail to acquire a genuine specimen, or two, and b).a stack of high-resolution photos, to boot, with which to compare their artistic skills with. Anyone with prior coiner experience already knows the basics. (I would not be surprised at all to find out some apprentices are members in good standing.)

Apparently, no one with the intestinal fortitude here, can summon up the courage to say, "Pardon my impertinence, but aren't you the same person who was scammed in a widely-reported gold scheme, or was it that scamster writing to you from Nigeria...?"

If, a month from now, my highly regarded source in France fails to come through for me, I will spare the membership crocodile tears.  Almost to a man, those in the know will dismiss the loss as a cheap publicity stunt.  After all, WHO sends cash money (crisp currency) through the U.S. Mails? A $20-dollar bill, maybe. Two $100-dollar bills? Possibly, if you know someone locally.  But $2,000? to an overseas location? It turns out most of the people who lost their life's savings to Bernie Madoff did not know him personally.  He was recommended by a mutual friend by referral.    What could possibly go wrong?  Have you heard about those impressive monthly account statements? And besides, he was no fly-by-nighter.  His whole family was involved and, knowing the reach, investigative powers and infinite resources of the Federal Government, I am not inclined to challenge the assertions made by those claiming they had no prior knowledge of the scheme that kept ballooning out of control. The result was inevitable and the deaths of family members, and requisite banishment of his wife far, far away from everything, was tragic.  I suppose he could have turned back but my own feeling was he was in too deep.  He could not stop... he had to be stopped.

(Posted at the sole discretion of Moderation.)

Edited by Henri Charriere
Additional parenthetical comment.
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Posted (edited)
On 5/25/2024 at 9:42 AM, ldhair said:

This thread makes me think of the hundreds of folks that come to the coin forums and post a coin they have killed, trying to conserve them. This is one of the reasons that collectors are told to not clean their coins. Conservation is something that very few will try to teach on the forums.  

Great then you're really going to love my next post about proper copper verdigris removal and stabilization using 2.5% molar Sodium Sesquicarbonate solution soak. Be sure to tune in to learn how a professional numismatist conservationist chemically conserves coins. You're welcome to check my work anytime.

Edited by Mike Meenderink
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Posted (edited)
On 5/24/2024 at 12:31 PM, Sandon said:

 I have seen a thoroughly moistened cotton swab leave hairline scratches on a proof coin even if lightly applied.

On 5/24/2024 at 2:00 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

Those were already there before the q tip touched it

    I can only tell you what my actual experience was. The coin in question was a red and brown proof 1942 cent that I had won as a coin club prize some years ago. The coin had some PVC residue but, I am sure, no hairlines. I used Harco "Blue Ribbon", which was at one time a widely used PVC remover but which is no longer available because, I understand, its active ingredient, 1,1,1-trichloriethane, was banned by the EPA.  The product was a liquid that also contained a lubricant and was to be applied by a soft cloth or cotton swab, and I used the latter. As I lightly rubbed the coin with a swab that had been immersed in the product, I noticed hairline scratches appearing in the fields only where and on the angle that I was rubbing. These hairlines remained after I had patted as much as I could of the product off the coin.  Based on this experience, I am reluctant to rub a coin with anything, no matter how soft or wet, especially a coin with delicate surfaces.

Edited by Sandon
added missing words
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@SandonI agree that there is a possibility of hair lining a proof coin surface with a q tip applying to much pressure. That is why soaking for proof coins is preferred. However, this damage would not be so much from the Q tip itself but from the contaminants that it is picking up.  This however is not the case with an MS coin. The surface is completely different and much more forgiving. Light gentle pressure with a soaked acetone q tip will not leave marks. You must change q tips after every roll and wipe as they show contaminants being removed. You can also soak MS coins like proof coins in acetone that are more lightly covered in contaminates to remove them without a q tip. It all depends on your preference. 

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On 5/25/2024 at 6:01 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

@SandonI agree that there is a possibility of hair lining a proof coin surface with a q tip applying to much pressure. That is why soaking for proof coins is preferred. However, this damage would not be so much from the Q tip itself but from the contaminants that it is picking up.  This however is not the case with an MS coin. The surface is completely different and much more forgiving. Light gentle pressure with a soaked acetone q tip will not leave marks. You must change q tips after every roll and wipe as they show contaminants being removed. You can also soak MS coins like proof coins in acetone that are more lightly covered in contaminates to remove them without a q tip. It all depends on your preference. 

Sorry Mike, ALL physical contact leaves marks. ALL of it! I have no Q-tips in my tool kit, just bottles. 

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On 5/25/2024 at 4:06 PM, VKurtB said:

Sorry Mike, ALL physical contact leaves marks. ALL of it! I have no Q-tips in my tool kit, just bottles.

Well, I'm lucky I guess because I've had return graded coins that I've done this to, and none was the wiser...it's all in how much pressure you use and how often you change q tips. See my latest acetone treated coin.   5798869_Full_Obv.jpg?q=121120231023335798869_Full_Rev.jpg?q=12112023102333

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On 5/25/2024 at 5:25 PM, Sandon said:

I used Harco "Blue Ribbon", which was at one time a widely used PVC remover but which is no longer available because, I understand, its active ingredient, 1,1,1-trichloriethane, was banned by the EPA. 

Blue Ribbon was a great product but I understand why it was banned. I'm thinking that was 30 something years ago. I still have half a bottle of the original. They came out with a new version but I can't remember using it.  

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I am just a bit curious. As readers may recall, Ricky ratted me out upthread and disclosed I had snuck downstairs to the mailbox after learning earlier in the heat of battle with combatants on this Topic that a dead-center pre-punched hole had arrived.

This entire thread was devoted to the use and misuse of acetone. On other Topics, vinegar was discussed as was extra virgin olive oil -- as well as other products including WD-40 (which I intend to use the next time I come across a Zincoln or similar worthless piece.

My question is the token I received is made of brass and has that typical funeral parlor pallor.  Anybody have a valid suggestion. JB on his Token Tuesday thread recommended olive oil (which it is sitting in now) but no way I am going to wait weeks or months for results.  Surely, there is a Mad Scientist out there that can suggest a more expedited approach because, JHVH willing, it's coming out of the drink a minute past Tuesday morning, hopefully bright-eyed and bushy-tailed ready for its close-up and posting. 

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On 5/24/2024 at 9:31 AM, Sandon said:

 The use of acetone, a solvent that dissolves or loosens surface dirt or other contamination from a coin isn't what is commonly referred as "cleaning", all of which is improper.  In the numismatic context, "cleaning" refers to any abrasive or chemical process that physically or chemically changes the coin's surface as opposed to something like acetone that removes contaminants that haven't chemically bonded with the coin metal and become part of the coin itself.

Any time contaminates are removed from a coin you are cleaning the coin. The semantics of the "numismatic" context to the common meaning of cleaning is irrelevant to a person like me because I don't make up silly falsehoods. Let me say this again there are proper methods to clean or conserve a coin. There are improper ways to clean or conserve a coin. The improper ways are evident to ANY TPG or experienced grader. Some TPGS use the term DETAILS CLEANED others use DETAILS IMPROPERLY CLEANED...  those are the same grade. Proper conservation or removal of contaminates of almost all types of coins is possible in some order or fashion when professional practices are applied. Many of these practices involve using bases and other chemical baths to remove surface verdigris and other organic contaminates. These methods of cleaning a coin are proper and will not raise the ire of ANY grading company by leaving ANY trace. 

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   I agree that in its usual context the term "cleaning" refers to the removal of dirt rather than to abrasive or chemical alterations of a surface. Unfortunately, that is not how it is used by grading services or generally by the numismatic "industry". I'm simply trying to teach those who read these forums the terminology in common use, so that we can all understand each other. 

    If it were up to me, I would not refer to abrasive or chemical damage to a coin as "cleaning" nor to the use of solvents to remove surface dirt or other contamination as "conservation". Nor, for that matter, would I use numbers to grade coins or have eleven or more grades for "mint state" and proof coins based on multiple subjective factors. It's not up to me or to the OP to make such decisions alone. Unfortunately, we need to distinguish between generally accepted practices and personal opinions and preferences. The latter are worth expressing in the hope that they may result in positive change, but the former must be understood to carry on a meaningful dialog in the first place.

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On 5/25/2024 at 4:47 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

Be sure to tune in to learn how a professional numismatist conservationist chemically conserves coins. You're welcome to check my work anytime.

I will. I just hope it and you will be a bit more professional in the next thread. You might gain more respect from the members here if you would not get so upset with others opinions. No need to insult them. 

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On 5/26/2024 at 1:22 PM, ldhair said:

I will. I just hope it and you will be a bit more professional in the next thread. You might gain more respect from the members here if you would not get so upset with others opinions. No need to insult them. 

ummm  you too..

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On 5/25/2024 at 7:41 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

Well, I'm lucky I guess because I've had return graded coins that I've done this to, and none was the wiser...it's all in how much pressure you use and how often you change q tips. See my latest acetone treated coin.   5798869_Full_Obv.jpg?q=121120231023335798869_Full_Rev.jpg?q=12112023102333

I see a few problems with your assertions -- and I am not taking sides.  It seems to me Idhair, relying on personal knowledge and experience, would not feel comfortable advocating for something that cannot produce consistent, positive results, so he would rather "err" on the side of safety.  You managed to get one by NGC, but considering their caseload and the average interval spent on a never-ending cascade of coins, why wouldn't some slip by? One member who very likely is not convinced or impressed is RWB.  You cannot prove the '34 quarter was treated; he cannot prove it wasn't. VKurtB cautions Newbies to stay away from YouTube. I say some people simply need guidance. Is alcohol, tobacco and drugs dangerous?  Not if you don't use them.  I don't think any member has an axe to grind in dissuading others to engage in potentially consequential activity.

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Posted (edited)
On 5/26/2024 at 6:45 PM, Henri Charriere said:

I see a few problems with your assertions -- and I am not taking sides.  It seems to me Idhair, relying on personal knowledge and experience, would not feel comfortable advocating for something that cannot produce consistent, positive results, so he would rather "err" on the side of safety.  You managed to get one by NGC, but considering their caseload and the average interval spent on a never-ending cascade of coins, why wouldn't some slip by? One member who very likely is not convinced or impressed is RWB.  You cannot prove the '34 quarter was treated; he cannot prove it wasn't. VKurtB cautions Newbies to stay away from YouTube. I say some people simply need guidance. Is alcohol, tobacco and drugs dangerous?  Not if you don't use them.  I don't think any member has an axe to grind in dissuading others to engage in potentially consequential activity.

If only people had the discipline to follow sound advice, and not just pay it lip service, this hobby might have a decent future. But no, that’s not how the real numismatic world works any more. Everybody is all hellbent  on immediate gratification. 
Consider these:

1) Buy the book before the coin.

2) Never clean any valuable coin without FIRST experimenting on low value coins.

3) Buy low, sell high.

4) If it seems too good to be true, it’s NOT TRUE. 

All of these ideas need to be strictly heeded. If you can’t or won’t, you are not worth my time. I just turned 69. My time is valuable, and scarce. 

Edited by VKurtB
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On 5/24/2024 at 2:45 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

@zadok Cheer up buddy at least I unblocked you now...but it may not last long...  :(

And I received today a congratulatory text from NGC for renewing my membership.  That ought to count for something in helping cheer you up!  🤣

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Posted (edited)
On 5/28/2024 at 10:02 PM, Henri Charriere said:

And I received today a congratulatory text from NGC for renewing my membership.  That ought to count for something in helping cheer you up!  🤣

Conflating two different types of membership again, I see. The membership of this board doesn’t NEED TO BE renewed. It is gratis and perpetual.

Edited by VKurtB
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On 5/24/2024 at 2:45 PM, Mike Meenderink said:

@zadok Cheer up buddy at least I unblocked you now...but it may not last long...  :(

...of no concern to me, nothing u say or do is of any importance to me, i just hope some new collectors dont accidentally stumble upon one of ur posts before they find real collectors they should learn from...perhaps u n QA n ricky could start a new chat forum?....

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On 5/29/2024 at 9:37 AM, VKurtB said:

Conflating two different types of membership again, I see. The membership of this board doesn’t NEED TO BE renewed. It is gratis and perpetual.

Not exactly...

There was a time when any hobo or vagabond could post a comment, and move on.

No more.

For the benefit of those who signed on in that era, e.g., the Mighty @Conder101 , and I want to emphasize this:  YOU MUST BE A MEMBER TO POST A COMMENT! 

Some might say, "Yeah, well how do you explain @Wondercoin's participation?" I do not believe he posts regularly, but I do know he was persuaded to participate a few years ago encouraged by @MarkFeld .  (You will recall I was the self-appointed referee of that heavyweight champion brouhaha, RATZIE vs. NGC CHAT BOARD MEMBERSHIP, which sadly resulted in my banishment and his eventual departure.)

(Posted at the discretion of Moderation.)

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I absolutely would not rub ANYTHING on the surface of a coin no matter how "light" the perceived pressure may be. Regardless of it seemingly being a "soft" cotton swab, it is still a fiber and any kind of fiber can produce minute hairline scratches through rubbing or rolling.

I just went upstairs and pulled out from the deep recesses of the upstairs cabinet a bottle left behind that is acetone nail polish remover. I shall describe the back label word for word as to what it actually is.

                  INGREDIENTS : ACETONE, WATER, PROPYLENE CARBONATE, DIMETHYL GLUTARATE, DIMETHYL ADIPATE, GLYCERINE, FRAGRANCE, DENATONIUM BENZOATE,                                               D&C YELLOW NO.11

Whether or not your bottle contains these same ingredients is moot as manufacturers only have to list the quantities significant enough as required by FDA that pose a potential hazard from use and different manufacturers will use different ingredients, but the point is that acetone nail polish remover is not just 100% acetone.

There is a reason why NCS uses proprietary methods none of which anybody outside the company will leak or divulge. And conservation alone cannot remove stains or discolorations from the metal. Conservation by its definition according to NCS is to remove harmful surface contaminants, stabilize and protect a coin's surfaces, and improve eye appeal. The improving of eye appeal is not a magic wand however to make a coin look as if it were just struck.

To those reading this thread, I would only choose NCS to conserve my coins, and I would not use the OP's method described here.

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Posted (edited)
On 5/30/2024 at 7:48 PM, powermad5000 said:

I absolutely would not rub ANYTHING on the surface of a coin no matter how "light" the perceived pressure may be. Regardless of it seemingly being a "soft" cotton swab, it is still a fiber and any kind of fiber can produce minute hairline scratches through rubbing or rolling.

I just went upstairs and pulled out from the deep recesses of the upstairs cabinet a bottle left behind that is acetone nail polish remover. I shall describe the back label word for word as to what it actually is.

                  INGREDIENTS : ACETONE, WATER, PROPYLENE CARBONATE, DIMETHYL GLUTARATE, DIMETHYL ADIPATE, GLYCERINE, FRAGRANCE, DENATONIUM BENZOATE,                                               D&C YELLOW NO.11

Whether or not your bottle contains these same ingredients is moot as manufacturers only have to list the quantities significant enough as required by FDA that pose a potential hazard from use and different manufacturers will use different ingredients, but the point is that acetone nail polish remover is not just 100% acetone.

There is a reason why NCS uses proprietary methods none of which anybody outside the company will leak or divulge. And conservation alone cannot remove stains or discolorations from the metal. Conservation by its definition according to NCS is to remove harmful surface contaminants, stabilize and protect a coin's surfaces, and improve eye appeal. The improving of eye appeal is not a magic wand however to make a coin look as if it were just struck.

To those reading this thread, I would only choose NCS to conserve my coins, and I would not use the OP's method described here.

That is not pure Acetone ... the post says use 100 % pure acetone (If nail polish remover use 100% acetone nail polish remover.) Bitterant (Denatonium Benzoate) is in ALL acetones even 100% acetone.. A soaked q tip will not damage a business strike coin that needs surface debris removed. The general perception that a business strike coin can be scratched by a wet q tip is silly. A proof coin should always be soaked however because the surface of the proof coin is VERY different from a biz strike coin. I have personally done this exact process to biz strike UNC MS 63-64 coins (Quarters and Morgans) and had straight grades come back no problem.

Edited by Mike Meenderink
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Posted (edited)

Here is what I did. This area of this quarter had a little of what I call green black slime. It was in a PVC sleeve at some point. I applied the above-mentioned method to the front of this coin only and after it was graded NGC MS 64. I have circled the conserved area. No marks left by the horrible, awful, evil, Q TIP but the acetone revealed some small marks on the coin in this area that were covered by the PVC residue. If you don't rub hard (barely touching the coin) and you change the q tip as it gets dirty you will not mark the coin. Proof below. END of discussion.

wv4tj9u6.png

Edited by Mike Meenderink
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On 6/9/2024 at 8:40 AM, ldhair said:

Go ahead. Swirl that Q-Tip. Grind the garbage across the coin. 

If anyone must use Q-Tips, just roll the Q-Tip, not swirl, using no pressure at all. Still not a good idea but you will mess up fewer coins. All you want to do is spread/flow the acetone across the surface with as little contact as possible. Still a bad idea. 

Let's talk about testing. With a clean dropper put a drop of the fresh acetone you are using on a clean glass slide and let it dry. Now lets test the Q-Tips to be sure they are safe. Acetone can melt the stem of some Q-Tips. You don't want that on your coin. Soak the end of the Q-Tip in acetone for a minute or so. Touch it against a clean glass slide to leave a small sample and let it dry. Now put both slides under a scope and hope that both samples are clear. 

I have removed PVC from well over a thousand coins over the years and never had the need to contact the surface of the coin with anything but acetone. Let the acetone do it's work with baths with no rubbing. Test the used acetone after each bath under the scope. You will see the progress and you will know when the acetone has done all it can do. It's also wise to flow fresh acetone over the coin as a final step. A squirt bottle works well for this but be sure the bottle is acetone safe.

I'm not going to get into the proper way of giving a coin a bath. That is a long story with several ways that work well. My favorite involves shot glasses. You only waste an ounce of acetone per bath and the edge of the coin are the only thing that come in contact with anything.  

I’m VKurtB and I approve of this message. I once bought a 15 page lot of coins from various European countries in those slide in long holders that go into a vinyl containing page. Well, that was my big project in the summer of 2022. The total number of coins was about 200 or more, and every one of them ended up with an acetone bath due to the vinyl. The obviousness depended on the actual metal of each coin. British 0.50 silver had the greenest presentation, but many Cu/Ni coins actually had a thicker coating. I used a Greysheet promotional shot glass, and some Petri dishes. You should have felt the vinyl slime left behind in the glass wear.

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On 6/9/2024 at 2:34 PM, VKurtB said:

I’m VKurtB and I approve of this message....

🐓  :  That's good enough for me right there.

Q.A.:  Yup, no need to go any further.  

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