1988 D Lincoln Wheat 1C 1 1

[VasquezJ]

Ok so after sorting out some coins I had I happened to come across this 1988 D Lincoln Wheat 1C  that seems to me like a Doubled Die on Obverse and Reverse sides but tried looking it up but there’s not a DD for the year. Looked at it from all different angles and I see it every single time but is this a DD worth grading and or is it considered a DD??

[VasquezJ]

[ldhair]

It's not a Wheat Cent or a doubled die of any kind.

[cobymordet]

I had to find my rose colored glasses.  Now that I am properly prepared to view this astounding specimen properly, I can absolutely see the doubling.  3D is better than DD, but not yet up to the standards of DDO or DDR.  It's like betamax and vhs compared to laserdisc.  nolo contendere.

Edited March 5 by cobymordet
edited for reality

[VasquezJ]

Ok so under what error or variety should I summit it under and how valuable you think this coin may be worth, just a rough number? 

[cobymordet]

LOL, I would submit it under: WDDO-001 / WDDO-002 / WDDO-003 / WDDO-004 / WDDO-005 / WDDO-006 and/or WDDR-001.  Since you are the only one with the particular coin in hand and the rest of the world is unable to see any evidence of DDO/DDR, it will be necessary for you to determine which variety of the 7 varieties available best matches your coin.  You have six DDO choices and 1 DDR choice. 

 Click this link to Wexler's Coin & Die Varieties (for 1988-D coins) and look through the choices.  http://www.doubleddie.com/829033.html

If you can't find it, then just wing it.  Be sure to stock up on insurance for it.  Good luck to you, obviously your skills are beyond ours, so we can't be much help.

[VasquezJ]

Any help or advice is s as always helpful to anyone in general not just myself I would think. Just did really know under what I should summit under since it has a bit of most of them, at least that’s what I’m thinking. 

[Coinbuf]

Looking forward to your grading results.

[Henri Charriere]

Based upon the comments received thus far, some abrupt and dismissive, sarcastic, unnecessarily cruel and generally unhelpful to someone new to coin collecting, I am going to suggest you get yourself a copy of the latest Red Book (or perhaps wait for the newest edition due shortly) and acquaint yourself with this broad subject matter. And if you wish to restrict your reading to Lincoln cents, by all means do so.

Certification is a serious matter.  You must have a good idea of what it is you are submitting and whether doing so is warranted and cost-effective.

I am going to leave you with the wise words one member left the forum with three years ago:  "read more, submit less, and question everything." -W020

I urge you to try and master the hobby well enough to identify coins correctly, how many were minted and their approximate worth. Focus on quality. Do not get caught up in the internet-inspired line that "you too can become a millionaire" by simply looking at your spare change.  I personally would leave ERRORS and VARIETIES alone, until you have mastered the basic essentials.

I am no expert but experience tells me if your coin were truly valuable, you would have been told so in unambiguous words at the very outset of your post.

[Sandon]

       Where shall I begin?

      1. When you post photos of coins on this forum, please post photos that have been cropped so as to eliminate the surface that surrounds the coin as much as possible. If you claim that a coin exhibits a doubled die, include closeups of the areas that you think show die doubling, or at least describe the areas where you see doubling.  Based on the photos that you have submitted, your circulated (brown AU) 1988-D cent does not exhibit any form of doubling, die or otherwise. It does show a number of plating blisters, which are all too common on earlier zinc coated steel cents and of no collector value.  The coin appears to be worth only its face value of one cent.  If you want reconsideration, please post better photos.

    2. You cIaim that the coin exhibits die doubling on both sides, which is extremely unlikely. I can't recall a variety that was an obverse and reverse doubled die, and I've been collecting and studying U.S. coins for nearly 53 years. In fact, contrary to what you may have read elsewhere on the Internet, it is extremely unusual to find any significant die variety (such as a major doubled die) or mint error in circulation.

   3. A coin struck from a doubled die exhibits crisp, clear doubling on the affected side, with both images at about the same level and "notches" between the images. Here are images of an example of the "Redbook" variety 1972 doubled die obverse cent. Note these characteristics on the obverse letters and numbers and the normal reverse:

   4.  If you are a new collector, the last thing that you should be doing is submitting coins to third-party grading services, especially coins that you think are die varieties or mint errors, which are advanced subjects in numismatics.  To be successful in this endeavor, you need substantial knowledge and experience in grading and otherwise evaluating coins. If you don't believe me, please review this topic by someone who learned this the hard way, including my and other members' replies:

   5.  If you're still determined to submit this coin to NGC, please carefully review all of the topics under the "Submit" tab on the NGC home page. Assuming that you already have a paid NGC membership (at least $95 per year), you will need to pay a $19 ("Modern" tier) grading fee, a $18 VarietyPlus fee, a $10 per order processing fee, and a minimum $28 per order return shipping fee, totaling $75, not including your cost of shipping the coin to NGC. That's a lot of money to spend to find out that your coin has no collector value, as will almost certainly be the case.  Why not spend this money on a current "Redbook", a grading guide, and a subscription to a current pricing periodical instead? See the following topics to find these and other resources, including free ones:

 

Edited March 6 by Sandon
correct typo

[Henri Charriere]

On 3/5/2024 at 7:14 PM, Sandon said:

.... 3. A coin struck from a doubled die exhibits crisp, clear doubling on the affected side, with both images at about the same level and "notches" between the images. Here are images of an example of the "Redbook" variety 1972 doubled die obverse cent. Note these characteristics on the obverse letters and numbers and the normal reverse:

 

[I believe for illustration purposes, depicting one of the finest examples of DDO available, as in the 1972 Lincoln you've chosen, is ideal. Unfortunately, it seems the examples featured regularly in this Forum are PMDd and any distinctive characteristics are not so easy to discern. That likely explains the never-ending procession of queries. Just my hunch.]

[powermad5000]

To the OP, I am going to say this as gently as possible, and only once.

As you seem to be new to the hobby, there are many facets to which you are unaware of. I don't see any kind of doubling on the cent you posted, but since you have the coin in hand and maybe see something, I could almost bet the farm that it is some form of mechanical or strike doubling, or on this even plating doubling as the plating on these cents especially in the 80's was not the best coming out of the mint.

I think it would be in your best interest to scrub what you may think you have learned and start over. Get yourself a copy of the current Redbook of United States Coins and read it cover to cover. Also, avail yourself of a book titled ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins, 7th Edition. Read that cover to cover.

I think you need to get the basics down before you even consider submitting any coins as you will surely be on the losing end of that.

I don't know any other way to say whatever you have learned so far has come from a less than reliable source.